Deficiency or genetics?

HarrySchleem69 said:
Really the only thing I'm worried about is the nitrogen being too high for their liking because I have some miracle grow soil mixed into the main soil im using and I know how fucked up those time release ferts can be. I plucked out as many of the little fert balls that I saw when I was mixing the soils together but I know I didn't get all of them. Here's a question that I hope you can give me a solid answer for, it will really help me understand better what im dealing with. The MG soil is listed as 0.21% Nitrogen, 0.11% Phosphorus and 0.16% Potassium. If you saw that soil in the store would you tell yourself "oh that's alot of nutes for soil" or would you say "that's not a very strong mix, I can deal with that". What's confusing me is, why do my liquid organic ferts say 1% N, 3% P and 1%K but the soil is "0.00%. Im very confused. And I was never good at math. Which would be stronger and more likely to cause burn issues on my plants. The 1% of this, or the 0.21% of that? I hope I made sense. Basically what I'm asking is, why is the MG soil listed in like decimals and my other stuff is listed as small, whole numbers?
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weird, not sure exactly how that works
HarrySchleem69 said:
Hey man I have a quick question. Yesterday I fed her just slightly less than 1/4 strength of that flower/bloom stuff but I doubt that's the cause. I think there were fert balls that had already popped and had released alot of nutes into the soil but I noticed this leaf today. It's the only one but several of them are showing signs of nute burn. Is that what this is or could this be a deficiency? I popped a semi-dried fert ball and it released powder instead of liquid so maybe some of them got wet and saturated the soil before I used it and maybe some of them popped and released the powder in the soil. Do you think a really heavy flush would get maybe the majority of it out? I don't want to make the problem worse
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That's why we're suggesting some organic amendments such as worm poo and fish emulsion, their microbes will help act as a middle man between the plant and the soil to give the plant what it wants (in exchange for sugar) which is the best way to deal with a hot soil, bring in microbes to intervene. It's Like showing up to a farm with a fork or showing up with a chef. The chef will take your order and process the produce from the farm into the meal you need in exchange for money (or sugar) instead of the farmer shoving a silo of corn down your throat LOL.
 
Southerncough said:
weird, not sure exactly how that works


That's why we're suggesting some organic amendments such as worm poo and fish emulsion, their microbes will help act as a middle man between the plant and the soil to give the plant what it wants (in exchange for sugar) which is the best way to deal with a hot soil, bring in microbes to intervene. It's Like showing up to a farm with a fork or showing up with a chef. The chef will take your order and process the produce from the farm into the meal you need in exchange for money (or sugar) instead of the farmer shoving a silo of corn down your throat LOL.
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OOOOOH i get it now lol. They sell a big bag of worm castings at my local nursery so I'm gonna stop by and get a bag of that tomorrow after work. Is there any sort of wait period for it to become "active" after I top dress my soil or can I apply it, water it, and they start getting to work?
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
OOOOOH i get it now lol. They sell a big bag of worm castings at my local nursery so I'm gonna stop by and get a bag of that tomorrow after work. Is there any sort of wait period for it to become "active" after I top dress my soil or can I apply it, water it, and they start getting to work?
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Pretty much! I mean, it won't be instant because the microbes have to colonize the root zone to establish a food web in the soil. So don't give up on it, we're trying to replicate nature in a very short time but it may take a little bit but it will definitely help.
NOTE: if you do get the fish emulsion wear rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about. Don't mix the solution near carpet or anything you car about. That shit is FUUUUNKY!
The worm poo smells nice and earthy though
 
Southerncough said:
Pretty much! I mean, it won't be instant because the microbes have to colonize the root zone to establish a food web in the soil. So don't give up on it, we're trying to replicate nature in a very short time but it may take a little bit but it will definitely help.
NOTE: if you do get the fish emulsion wear rubber gloves and clothes you don't care about. Don't mix the solution near carpet or anything you car about. That shit is FUUUUNKY!
The worm poo smells nice and earthy though
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If I can find the fish stuff I'll get that also but I'm definitely going to get the worm castings. But, regarding my picture of that leaf, is that indeed nute burn or is it something else?
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
If I can find the fish stuff I'll get that also but I'm definitely going to get the worm castings. But, regarding my picture of that leaf, is that indeed nute burn or is it something else?
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I'm color blind, so these things don't do much for me...but have a gander...


1604010977481.png
 

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Southerncough said:
I'm color blind, so these things don't do much for me...but have a gander...


1604010977481.png
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I looked at that exact chart but I really didn't see one that best resembled my leaf. I thought maybe instead of nute burn it could've been nitrogen toxicity but my leaves aren't the common really deep dark green that I usually see on pictures of nitrogen toxicity, I thought maybe it could be a potassium deficiency judging by the picture but I don't see any leaves with later stage K deficiency, just either yellowed or brown tips, at the very tips of several leaves and several of them are clawing down at the tips. Then I thought maybe a zinc deficiency but would that be on the lower leaves? The leaf im talking about is one of the lowest leaves on one of my secondary branches and its only that one single leaf showing those specific symptoms. With zinc wouldn't it be at the top leaves, and on more of them? Could it perhaps be nute burn and also from that leaf being shaded by the canopy for most of its life thus making it weaker and more susceptible to browning and yellowing? I really need to pick up a pH meter so I know what the hell is going on in my soil and the pH of the water I put in the soil. I think I'm gonna try to do a significant soil flush once the soil drys out a bit more and hope to god i can at least get SOME of the excess salts/nutes out of my soil. Flushing in a fabric pot is no different than flushing in any other plastic pot right? I've never had a fabric pot and I've always watched at the bottom drain holes to measure my runoff but with the fabric pot, I just get water leeching out from all over so it's hard for me to really inspect the runoff and how much
 
About the leaves.... Some of the nutrients are mobile, so if the growing top of the plant needs more nutes it can borrow or steal from lower parts of the plant. As for flushing, yes it can help if the soil is too hot but honestly some folks flush every time they perceive a problem. For soil grows flushing is seldom the answer..... I try to avoid flushing and save that as a last resort. But if a plant is already showing deficiencies then flushing seems counterintuitive

Going out on a limb to say 99% of fert balls are powder, not aware of anyone doing liquid fert balls - yes it’s possible but you have to ask yourself why would a company spend additional money on liquid encapsulated fert balls?

I think you need cal-mag and worm poop for now and going with a better soil mix next time around. If you are trying to stay organic then Emilya has recipes for DIY cal mag
 
013 said:
About the leaves.... Some of the nutrients are mobile, so if the growing top of the plant needs more nutes it can borrow or steal from lower parts of the plant. As for flushing, yes it can help if the soil is too hot but honestly some folks flush every time they perceive a problem. For soil grows flushing is seldom the answer..... I try to avoid flushing and save that as a last resort. But if a plant is already showing deficiencies then flushing seems counterintuitive

Going out on a limb to say 99% of fert balls are powder, not aware of anyone doing liquid fert balls - yes it’s possible but you have to ask yourself why would a company spend additional money on liquid encapsulated fert balls?

I think you need cal-mag and worm poop for now and going with a better soil mix next time around. If you are trying to stay organic then Emilya has recipes for DIY cal mag
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Several of the fresh fert balls are liquid, when I pop them when they are still "new" a liquid comes out but the ones I've seen that were sort of a darker, more "weathered" look had powder come out when popped. But then again there's probably a mixture of both? I don't know lol
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
Several of the fresh fert balls are liquid, when I pop them when they are still "new" a liquid comes out but the ones I've seen that were sort of a darker, more "weathered" look had powder come out when popped. But then again there's probably a mixture of both? I don't know lol
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The reason they are liquid when you pop them is because they absorb water. I know with the miracle grow moisture control soil they start off dry and after watering they will absorb the water and swell up slightly.
 
Liqurd4tay0z said:
The reason they are liquid when you pop them is because they absorb water. I know with the miracle grow moisture control soil they start off dry and after watering they will absorb the water and swell up slightly.
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I'm just curious on how long it actually stays in the soil. Surely it doesn't last as long as MG claims it does. "Feeds up to 3 months" or something like that. So far all I've really noticed is some tip burn on several of my leaves and some clawed tips which I'm assuming is from excess nitrogen, right? Will that affect the flowering of my plant? It isn't severe nitrogen toxicity and most of what I've read about too much nitrogen during flower had to do with like extremely high levels of nitrogen
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
I'm just curious on how long it actually stays in the soil. Surely it doesn't last as long as MG claims it does. "Feeds up to 3 months" or something like that. So far all I've really noticed is some tip burn on several of my leaves and some clawed tips which I'm assuming is from excess nitrogen, right? Will that affect the flowering of my plant? It isn't severe nitrogen toxicity and most of what I've read about too much nitrogen during flower had to do with like extremely high levels of nitrogen
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I have used the mg soil in one of my grows successfully with very minor issues such as tip burn and some leaf clawing. I also added micro nutrients, bloom nutes and cal/mag throughout that grow and i was able to successfully harvest. I found in the beginning when I went a bit too crazy with watering is when I would notice things start to get a bit troublesome so I would back off watering as often as I would and really allow for those pots to dry out more thoroughly sometimes only watering once every 5-7 days, however when you are in flower she will suck up that water much more quickly and you are forced to water more often and resulting in the release of more nutrients from those balls. I do believe those nutrients last as long as advertised because I am also using it with other plants and vegetables I grow indoors and some plants have been potted for 4 months or so and i havent had to feed them much and still notice the odd ball on the surface of the soil. I hope you have good luck with your grow, the key is a proper watering each time but only when your plant needs it and be careful when feeding other nutrients to the soil and you should come out well.
 
Liqurd4tay0z said:
I have used the mg soil in one of my grows successfully with very minor issues such as tip burn and some leaf clawing. I also added micro nutrients, bloom nutes and cal/mag throughout that grow and i was able to successfully harvest. I found in the beginning when I went a bit too crazy with watering is when I would notice things start to get a bit troublesome so I would back off watering as often as I would and really allow for those pots to dry out more thoroughly sometimes only watering once every 5-7 days, however when you are in flower she will suck up that water much more quickly and you are forced to water more often and resulting in the release of more nutrients from those balls. I do believe those nutrients last as long as advertised because I am also using it with other plants and vegetables I grow indoors and some plants have been potted for 4 months or so and i havent had to feed them much and still notice the odd ball on the surface of the soil. I hope you have good luck with your grow, the key is a proper watering each time but only when your plant needs it and be careful when feeding other nutrients to the soil and you should come out well.
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Did you notice it affect your yield at all? That's basically what I'm dealing with right now, just some tip burn and minor leaf claw, it really isn't as bad as i thought it would've been but its unsightly lol are there any good soils that don't have any nutes added? Isn't HP Promix a nute free soil?
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
Did you notice it affect your yield at all? That's basically what I'm dealing with right now, just some tip burn and minor leaf claw, it really isn't as bad as i thought it would've been but its unsightly lol are there any good soils that don't have any nutes added? Isn't HP Promix a nute free soil?
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I didn't have issues with it affecting yield, my only issue was I didn't have proper lighting so my overall yield was not as good as it could have been but otherwise the buds came out great, smoke has been awesome too. I have another grow going now also and I am using the same MG soil like previously and I have a couple more going in Fox Farms Happy frog soil and to be honest i have noticed explosive growth in the transition from veg to flower in the plants grown in Miracle Grow. This is going to be a test to see what will work better for myself and the way I grow.

I'm not too sure about the HP promix soil, depends on which one. I think the all purpose one has some nutes in it but im not 100% sure. I would like to try the Pro Mix HP High Porosity with Mycorise and do a nice organic run as i have heard excellent things about it.
 
Liqurd4tay0z said:
I didn't have issues with it affecting yield, my only issue was I didn't have proper lighting so my overall yield was not as good as it could have been but otherwise the buds came out great, smoke has been awesome too. I have another grow going now also and I am using the same MG soil like previously and I have a couple more going in Fox Farms Happy frog soil and to be honest i have noticed explosive growth in the transition from veg to flower in the plants grown in Miracle Grow. This is going to be a test to see what will work better for myself and the way I grow.

I'm not too sure about the HP promix soil, depends on which one. I think the all purpose one has some nutes in it but im not 100% sure. I would like to try the Pro Mix HP High Porosity with Mycorise and do a nice organic run as i have heard excellent things about it.
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That's very interesting to hear. I've heard good things about the Promix as well. Regarding the Fox Farms, I've read that the Ocean Forest has nutes in it and that it was hot. If you've tried it, would you say that is true or is it just considered hot for seedlings?
 
HarrySchleem69 said:
That's very interesting to hear. I've heard good things about the Promix as well. Regarding the Fox Farms, I've read that the Ocean Forest has nutes in it and that it was hot. If you've tried it, would you say that is true or is it just considered hot for seedlings?
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FFOF is good stuff but yes it's a bit hot. It'd be like taking a baby out to a steak dinner LOL.
I've heard of folks cutting it with coco or peat at first and then using 100% FFOF upon transplant.
Heck, or just start the babies in a solo cup of coco or peat and feed lightly then drop them in the FFOF.
 

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