I heard that when going from a water cloner to soil, you should start out with wetter soil than normal to ease the transition. Do you subscribe to that theory?
Dark Matter, Red Sky, Chunky Cherry Thai, BP Skunk In LOS
- Thread starter StoneOtter
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #942
I haven't heard that but I'm instantly on board! I'll spray water them on the soil twice a day for a while.
Something about water roots being different from soil roots which are themselves different from air roots.
Beautiful !! S.O ,SATURDAY MORNING SITTING IN THE SUN UPDATE WOOHOO!
The birds are chirping and all the new leaves are filling in everywhere in nature here! I'm on the deck enjoying a smoke making some of my own vitamin D. Mmmmm.
First, the 41st day of flower is today in the 4 x 4. So there's only 20 or 30 days left! Where does the time go. I got some bud pics of them getting fat and happy. Here ya go.
And then we have the new water babies. I bought and followed the Clonex directions for their cloning gel and nute mix. They didn't look like anything was happening until a few days ago then they exploded with roots! 30 days today to reach the root level here. Now I can see how long it takes to get them happy in some soil. I took all of these cuts with three leaves originally. All for science this run. Have a great day and weekend everyone! No headache today!
amazing plants my friend , they look lush and happy
- Thread starter
- #945
That's the rumor on the farm Azi. Let's see.
- Thread starter
- #946
Thanks Nutty! LOS baby!Beautiful !! S.O ,
amazing plants my friend , they look lush and happy
got to love it !
Wall to wall beauties you've got going Stone!
When I see a multi-strain grow and am unable to pick a fav from the bunch I find it impressive.
With your bunch, I'm very impressed!
When I see a multi-strain grow and am unable to pick a fav from the bunch I find it impressive.
With your bunch, I'm very impressed!
- Thread starter
- #949
I was just watering thinking just that. The Red Sky has those frosty spears that blow me away, but there's only so many of them. Then the Chunky Cherry Thai has the chunkiest buds with surrounding budlets that wow me. The dark matter is a whole matter in itself. She made somewhere near 20 colas that made it to the canopy and they are getting so frosty. The last is Black Poison Skunk who has the most beautiful green bud on her with flattening tops. I always have a favorite but not this time. These individuals are all outstanding!Wall to wall beauties you've got going Stone!
When I see a multi-strain grow and am unable to pick a fav from the bunch I find it impressive.
With your bunch, I'm very impressed!
As a proud papa you should love them all, but I'm rather fond of the monstrous pistils on the Red Sky! And dem roots on the Cloninator® plants are insane. 
I would put mine in dirt at the first sign of fishbones.
I would put mine in dirt at the first sign of fishbones.I have heard the same thing, and kept mine damper than usual with pretty good success. Soil roots vs water roots and all...
- Thread starter
- #951
Hehe, this grow is exactly that. I'm such an excitable guy!
- Thread starter
- #952
REPRODUCTION WITH STS UPDATE
HIGH ALL
I cut some information posted by Katsu Bluebird the other day. A gaggle of us are trying to get reversal done so I hope this helps.
"A lot of people have requested information about reversing the sex of a female plant to produce male pollen. The text from this post was pulled from the forums – Fet gets credit for much of the research and a kind (and currently unknown member) assembled it as it appears below.
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the “interview” phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Check out Robert Clarke’s “Marijuana Botany”, which is a very good reference.
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there… the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven’s Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It’s pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer’s Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That’s 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won’t smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a “F>M plant”; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn’t finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I’ll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don’t worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn’t get released accidently. Point downwind; don’t let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don’t forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it’s flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies’ eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn’t notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.
Silver Nitrate info:
ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH
https://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/… solution.pdf
For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.
Sodium Thiosulfate info: https://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s…hiosulfate.html
——————
Where to get the chemicals:
Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals
silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
https://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt…yID=27&langID=0
sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
https://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt…yID=28&langID=0"
I question the 3 to 4 weeks a plant needs to make viable seeds. I think 5 min+ but that's me. And the links to the products are dead to me.
HIGH ALL
I cut some information posted by Katsu Bluebird the other day. A gaggle of us are trying to get reversal done so I hope this helps.
"A lot of people have requested information about reversing the sex of a female plant to produce male pollen. The text from this post was pulled from the forums – Fet gets credit for much of the research and a kind (and currently unknown member) assembled it as it appears below.
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.
This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the “interview” phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones
At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.
It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Check out Robert Clarke’s “Marijuana Botany”, which is a very good reference.
It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.
Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there… the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven’s Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.
Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.
Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.
Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water
The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.
The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).
This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.
Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It’s pretty cheap.
Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer’s Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That’s 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.
Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won’t smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a “F>M plant”; a female plant that will produce male flowers.
After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.
So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn’t finish before the seeds can fully mature.
A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.
Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.
It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I’ll admit that things were awkward between us at first.
When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don’t worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.
When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.
A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.
Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn’t get released accidently. Point downwind; don’t let it get on your hands or clothes.
This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don’t forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.
If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it’s flowering cycle.
Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.
Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.
About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies’ eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn’t notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.
Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.
Silver Nitrate info:
ICSC:NENG1116 International Chemical Safety Cards (WHO/IPCS/ILO) | CDC/NIOSH
https://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/… solution.pdf
For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.
Sodium Thiosulfate info: https://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s…hiosulfate.html
——————
Where to get the chemicals:
Photographic chemicals, photo chemistry, photo processing equipment, photo chemicals
silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
https://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt…yID=27&langID=0
sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
https://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt…yID=28&langID=0"
I question the 3 to 4 weeks a plant needs to make viable seeds. I think 5 min+ but that's me. And the links to the products are dead to me.
Only changes Chris gave me were:
• He uses half the amounts for everything, since 1000ml of STS mix is a lot of spray. Half the grams of chems and half the water, then half the mix of each into half the water for the STS, making 500ml or 16 ounces for the spray bottle.
Like this:
Part A: 250ml distilled water / .25g Silver Nitrate
Part B: 250ml distilled water / 1.25g Sodium Thiosulfate
Take 25ml of Part B and mix in 25ml of Part A. Add 450 ml distilled water to get 500ml of STS mix.
• He recommended spraying every four days, starting 10 days before flipping, and then continuing on with every four days until you see pollen sacs.
• He uses half the amounts for everything, since 1000ml of STS mix is a lot of spray. Half the grams of chems and half the water, then half the mix of each into half the water for the STS, making 500ml or 16 ounces for the spray bottle.
Like this:
Part A: 250ml distilled water / .25g Silver Nitrate
Part B: 250ml distilled water / 1.25g Sodium Thiosulfate
Take 25ml of Part B and mix in 25ml of Part A. Add 450 ml distilled water to get 500ml of STS mix.
• He recommended spraying every four days, starting 10 days before flipping, and then continuing on with every four days until you see pollen sacs.
But that's you and you have made viable seeds, so I like your info!
- Thread starter
- #954
This is a more sensible batch! He's been having great success doing it this way I'm hearing too. I'm in! Thanks for the drop!
- Thread starter
- #955
HAPPY FRIDAY UPDATE
High folks, finally 112 flowering days came and The Lady Neville is hanging! Last week trichomes were mostly clear with some milky. I don't think anything was going to happen soon so, good enough for me.
So, it does tastes like catholic church incense smells, it's very nice for so raw a burn! Two puffs got me nice and elevated and I did a few things outside. No rubber legs, huh, walking across my un manicured lawn didn't feel like walking over unstable earth and stones. Nice! Been sitting around enjoying the thoughtful high this one has and have had a couple more tokes. Sweet buzz! Anyway she hangs in the drying/office/my wardrobe/storage room/etc. trying for 60% rh in the room. Here's how it went. She's likely to dry out to 4 oz's
Hah, a little over 5 1/2 months.
She overcame many obstacles and looks it!
One limb before trimming.
Same one after trimming. Not much to do here.
Hanging out
High folks, finally 112 flowering days came and The Lady Neville is hanging! Last week trichomes were mostly clear with some milky. I don't think anything was going to happen soon so, good enough for me.
So, it does tastes like catholic church incense smells, it's very nice for so raw a burn! Two puffs got me nice and elevated and I did a few things outside. No rubber legs, huh, walking across my un manicured lawn didn't feel like walking over unstable earth and stones. Nice! Been sitting around enjoying the thoughtful high this one has and have had a couple more tokes. Sweet buzz! Anyway she hangs in the drying/office/my wardrobe/storage room/etc. trying for 60% rh in the room. Here's how it went. She's likely to dry out to 4 oz's
Hah, a little over 5 1/2 months.
Congratulations on the takedown of that long running Haze! It took a lot of work to bring it to harvest, but it sounds like the smoke definitely makes it worth the trouble.
DutchinAB
Well-Known Member
Congrats on the harvest, Otter!
But;
But;
Did you move to the future? Or am I short a day this week!?
- Thread starter
- #958
There I go again!
Thanks for the needed clue card. I'm horrible with a - Thread starter
- #959
Thank's Shed! Happy future Friday!Congratulations on the takedown of that long running Haze! It took a lot of work to bring it to harvest, but it sounds like the smoke definitely makes it worth the trouble.
Highya SO,
Great job with Neville's Haze! Not your conventional looking lady, but your smoke description sounds more than makes up for good looks!! Congrats!! Happy Vapin'
Great job with Neville's Haze! Not your conventional looking lady, but your smoke description sounds more than makes up for good looks!! Congrats!! Happy Vapin'