Dark Matter, Red Sky, Chunky Cherry Thai, BP Skunk In LOS

Your attitude is always upbeat no matter what(much love), I had the worst Outdoor season I could ever imagine(done with Outdoor for now, or Maybe forever who knows), BUT I'm still here and it wasn't a total WASH. The fires really started a chain reaction of PESTS here in the valley, I'm lucky to harvest anything with the pests and a few plants RIPPED. All for the THRILL of the Harvest. :)
Thanks for noticing Johnnie, but you're the resilient one of us here today! The fires! This is tiny when health for my wife and I is stable now and as soon as this virus is kicked we'll be ready to take on the revolution! :rolleyes: I just set a mouse trap down there in case that was it. I never had this happen before. The morning will tell a story! I'll regroup then. Yes for the thrill of a harvest every time!
 
Highya SO,

That is sad news! So sorry! I'm wondering about the fortified soil as well. Seedlings don't like much help. I've been there, too. Could be the Llama poop. But, I know you'll figure it out!! Relax, have some vape. It'll be alright.
Oh, do you need more beans? Happy Vapin'
 
That's a hard sight to wake up to, sorry otter. :( I'm with DAB about planting seeds in an unfortified medium, and I'd like to add that 60º is 20º colder than I keep my seedlings! Got a spare heat mat to wrap around them?

Onward and upward, and congrats on the seeded harvest!
Thanks Shed! Onward and upward!
 
Highya SO,

That is sad news! So sorry! I'm wondering about the fortified soil as well. Seedlings don't like much help. I've been there, too. Could be the Llama poop. But, I know you'll figure it out!! Relax, have some vape. It'll be alright.
Oh, do you need more beans? Happy Vapin'
You sir are a beautiful man! I'll weigh your advice for a while, I think the fix is in there. Simple is good for seedlings. I did set a mouse trap in case too. I'm good for beans now, appreciate your offer! A nice vape now.
 
Thanks for noticing Johnnie, but you're the resilient one of us here today! The fires! This is tiny when health for my wife and I is stable now and as soon as this virus is kicked we'll be ready to take on the revolution! :rolleyes: I just set a mouse trap down there in case that was it. I never had this happen before. The morning will tell a story! I'll regroup then. Yes for the thrill of a harvest every time!
I wouldn't know where to begin with everything We've been through in 2020... I've always been a MOVE forward type of person... LETS GO 2021!!
 
So damping off is what I think is my issue here so here's something from The U of Minnesota I found:
Identifying damping off symptoms
Seedlings fail to emerge from the soil.
Cotyledons (the first leaves produced by a seedling) and seedling stems are water soaked, soft, mushy and may be discolored gray to brown.
Seedling stems become water soaked and thin, almost thread like, where infected.
Young leaves wilt and turn green-gray to brown.
Roots are absent, stunted or have grayish-brown sunken spots.
Fluffy white cobweb-like growth on infected plant parts under high humidity.
What causes damping off
a tray with 5 seedlings with mushy brown spots
Mushy tan spots on these seedlings are signs of infection by damping off fungi that can be caused by over watering.
All of the pathogens (fungi and molds) responsible for damping off survive well in soil and plant debris.

The pathogens can be introduced into the seedling tray in several ways.

Pots, tools, and potting media that have been used in previous seasons and are not properly cleaned can harbor the pathogens.
Spores of Fusarium spp. can be blown in and carried by insects like fungus gnats, or move in splashing irrigation water.
Pythium spp. is often introduced on dirty hands, contaminated tools or by hose ends that have been in contact with dirt and debris.
Once introduced to a seedling tray, the damping off pathogens easily move from plant to plant by growing through the potting media or in shared irrigation water.

Garden soil often contains small amounts of the damping off pathogens. If you use garden soil to fill seedling trays, you could introduce the damping off pathogens that cause the disease into the warm wet conditions best for seed growth.

Seeds planted directly into the garden can also suffer from damping off. Disease is particularly severe when seeds are planted in soils that are too cool for optimal germination or when weather turns cool and wet after planting resulting in slow germination and growth.

The damping off pathogens thrive in cool wet conditions. And any condition that slows plant growth will increase damping off. Low light, overwatering, high salts from over fertilizing and cool soil temperatures are all associated with increased damping off.

Preventing and managing the disease
thin, rotted stems of seedlings laying flat on a tray of soil
Infection of seedling stems by the damping off fungi results in thin wiry rotted stems that cannot support the seedling.
Sterilize all used pots and trays in a solution of 10% household bleach by soaking for 30 minutes.
Use new potting mix to fill trays. Don't reuse potting mix and don't use garden soil or compost.
Clean all tools that will be used in planting and maintenance of the seedlings. Store them in a clean location when not in use.
Use a heating pad under trays to warm soil to 70-75°F for indoor plant production.
Wait until garden soil has reached optimal temperature for germination before planting outdoors. This temperature varies depending on the plant (see the table below).
Use a potting mix with good drainage. Water to keep it moist but not soggy. Use pots with drainage holes to insure good drainage of excess water.
Keep hoses and water heads off the floor.
Use clean warm (68 – 77 F) water to water young seedlings. Cool water (50 F) slows plant growth and increases the opportunity for infection.
Do not apply fertilizer to seedlings until several true leaves have developed. Then apply 1/4 strength standard soluble fertilizer. Many potting mixes contain slow release fertilizer and do not require any fertilizer application.
Provide 12-16 hrs of light from a soft white fluorescent or grow light to seedlings. Light from a window is not enough.
Soil temperatures for best seed germination
Crop Minimum soil temp Best soil temp
Cucumbers, melons, squash 60 F 95 F
Sweet corn 50 F 95 F
Peas 40 F 75 F
Onions 35 F 75 F
Potatoes 50 F
 
Not that I'm telling you to keep it, but does the cooking process kill those kinds of pathogens generally?
It may but now's not the time. It's a frozen everything outside and my inside is getting smaller by the day. It's possible if my temps were more summery things might disappear. Do you think?
 
The segment you osted about damping off seemed to indicate that cooler temperatures were mentioned with the malady. Didn't you have a heat source for the seedlings? Trying to help.
 
I was asking you! I don't know anything about cooking soil. :)I think cooked or not those pathogens are there. Giving them what they need to thrive is what I want to steer away from I think is all I can do.
The segment you osted about damping off seemed to indicate that cooler temperatures were mentioned with the malady. Didn't you have a heat source for the seedlings? Trying to help.
That cooler temp thing, along with the ability of the negativity to be in my soil on any day. Putting the temp, rh, soil moisture together for a perfect storm of damping off potential is something to think about. Even though they were on 2 heat mats, I had a fan blowing pretty good on them as well so there's that.
 
The segment you osted about damping off seemed to indicate that cooler temperatures were mentioned with the malady. Didn't you have a heat source for the seedlings? Trying to help.
I did. 2 pads on the bottom that said 80 F. That adds to the queerie. I had a fan moving cool air too. I'm ruminating while getting some house stuff done today. The Rev had a recipe for starting in his soil. 50/50 soil/peat and a little vermiculite. I'll likely give that a shot along with some dynamyco.

One thing I want to change is the amount of light I give on sprouting. This time I went for 200 to 300 umols par and they came up tall, maybe 3 inches. For some reason I can't explain I like them shorter to start. They seem more resilient maybe? So I'm thinking of upping the light too.
 
The Rev had a recipe for starting in his soil. 50/50 soil/peat and a little vermiculite. I'll likely give that a shot along with some dynamyco.
I like that idea. Should give seedlings a good start.

I did that last year with seedlings. Started losing seedlings (mostly tomato's and peppers) because I was using nutes I composted from nettles and dandilions. I used brown sugar to spped the decay process. When I applied the nutes, the sugar started killing them. After a good flush, some recovered. Moral of my story - allow seedlings to grow on their own until obvious signs of needing nutrients. Not sure if it will help you. Happy Vapin'
 
So I'm watering this Pinkman Goo and lift a piece of bark to have a look at what goes on in the rhizosphere. We seldom see life here and I found some! Check out the tiny roots, some looking like they're probing the bottom of my mulch for lunch. Having mulch on top of that 5 gallon pot gives it between a half inch and inch of rootage on the top of the pot it would not have without! That's a pretty good percentage of the whole mass I believe. Mulch Baby!


 
here's something from The U of Minnesota I found:
I hear that there are some pretty smart folks from that state.

Sorry about the bebes... super sucky.
Just another turd in the punchbowl this week,right?
I'm sure you'll figure it out quickly.
 
GOOD MORNING ALL

As if I needed more confusion concerning the mass dying/kill? off of the grow, I caught a mouse in the area. Killed it too. Anyway, I can't tell if it had any or all the fault for the deaths of the remembered 8, bless their roots. So the plan is to finish chopping this grow and focus on this new grow in a few days. I'm a proven non successful multi tasker at this time. Don't pinch out if you don't want to see a squished mouse up close!
 
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