Curso's True High Brix!

The sprays and drenches will do very little, to nothing in a grow like you described.

They do not feed the plant, per se.....they feed and signal the soil biology. If your soil isn't set up right, the sprays just get the plants wet.

Been there, done that! When you get the soil dialed in---which doesn't mean it's loaded with NPK. I'm referring the living aspect of the soil---the sprays and drenches work like magic. You can literally see trichomes forming overnight.

That's because the biota are feeding the plants, and the sprays and drenches are feeding the biota. Subtle changes to their "diet" mean huge changes to the plant, especially when the plants are communicating with the mycorhyzza via root exudates....which are dictated by foliar feeding in the case of High Brix gardening.

I'm still learning, but I'm definitely starting to get a few things figured out. Check back in 6 months and we should really be on to something.
 
HSO Pineapple Skunk...These 2 are 12/12 from seed in 2nd run soil at basically 4 weeks on the nose. (I have clones of these rooting in soil for a real run of them, this is just to check them out)

This one has had the drench 2x, 2nd time was yesterday (it got it along with 2 gsc and the toxic blue 33)
IMG_148714.JPG


This one got the drench yesterday for the 1st time, noticeable difference???
IMG_148812.JPG


Here they are together...I'll take the drenched one all day long ;)
IMG_148910.JPG


Yep same everything aside from the drench...Most notable difference to me aside from the bud size is the color of the leaves, the 2x drench went dark and waxy on the 2nd application. The drenched one also had less of a stretch.
 
yeah thats about how much i spend for a years worth of growing lol i might be a min b4 i can afford it, im pretty heavy on nutes right now, & lots of amendments,i was just wondering if you guys had any ideas ,i thought it was something like nutes causing low yeild lately then i realized my bulb in the hps is at least a year of 12/12 on it lol so gotta fix that first i have some of that flowerset spray made by bonnide or something,says it increases yeild and flower count maybe ill try that i love the sour d2 pic curso ,mine is acting funny i think its heat stress, the t5 tent is running 85-90f right now i gotta do something, doc your knowlege is becoming quantum jumps from where you were a couple yrs ago ,impressive, i have been studying high brix i get it pretty well i think im just in the same spot i was before when we talked (broke ass scrub) if it were not for spiffy i might be still growing with cfl's i pay our bills she gets the extras when she has extra trust fund $ left from school, it works tho, few times a year we get to do some shopping therapy, next time im getting a doc kit or going your route with testing and get my own brodcast, for now im trying to figure out how to bring ph down in organic poop soup it hits 8-10ph in there after 48 hours of bubble, reg ph down kills the mykos, so after having 4 plants go south i panicked and went back to the bpn 3part high yeild system i need some decent harvests im down to less than 1/2oz total in my jars thats basically crumbs in 10 different masons, we are on rations now 1 bowl per a day...sucks! means i have to use more pharma and i hate that...so i gotta do what i know will work for the moment, till i find a solution,





:thumb:
 
BigIrishDoode said:
yeah thats about how much i spend for a years worth of growing lol i might be a min b4 i can afford it, im pretty heavy on nutes right now, & lots of amendments,i was just wondering if you guys had any ideas ,i thought it was something like nutes causing low yeild lately then i realized my bulb in the hps is at least a year of 12/12 on it lol so gotta fix that first i have some of that flowerset spray made by bonnide or something,says it increases yeild and flower count maybe ill try that:thumb:
Click to expand...

I'm guessing that your bulb is mostly the cause BID. However, when things aren't right I have found that going back to the simple basics and rebuilding from there will make the biggest difference. You'll always find that "oh shit yeah, that's what I've been missing/forgetting", I used to have to do that with recipes. Usually its something really simple that you're missing/forgetting that makes a big difference.

I had this beat into my head by a great chef...."Sweat the details, that's what we get paid to do, that pat of butter or pinch of salt at the end is all the flavor"...and is usually the difference between a professional and an amateur.
 
hooray MI. yup curso thats what i did,,,i have been so focused on making the perfect teas i forgot to think about some of the other factors, lol i put in a spare bulb that was used for only 10 hrs and it died after 90min! damn the luck & im broke till the 1st and its a critical time for my blue dreams & bubbleicious & gdp seed mom, eff the luck and mr murphy both!! i have a please help me thread up in the lighting section to see if any sponsors want me to do some review & testing so hopefully,,its funny i have these primo high end ballasts and never run anything but cheapo bulbs lol,be interesting to see how one of those fancy high$ bulbs do,i thought the one i got way back with my first jdl 600 was an eye but after seeing one its obviously not an eye hor , any way thanks for the input, reps buddy,been doing alot of sauce injections lately my fave so far is the teriyaki filled chicken breast,mmmmmmmmmmm:thumb::high-five:
 
BigIrishDoode said:
for now im trying to figure out how to bring ph down in organic poop soup it hits 8-10ph in there after 48 hours of bubble, reg ph down kills the mykos,
:thumb:
Click to expand...

If you haven't heard me rant about pH in soil, please look at the last page of instructions for the kit.

Organic ferts bring pH in the medium DOWN. Do not worry one little bit about a soup of pH 10. I've never once checked the pH of a tea I've brewed. I don't even have an idea what the pH of my feed water is and don't care.

The pH of the sprays are about 2.

The pH of my soil is LOCKED on 6.4. Nothin' reasonable gonna change that, short of bleach water or pool acid.

Ditch the coco and grow in normal potting soil and never check pH again.
 
hmm i dunno doc coco has been good to me, and something screwed up some of my plants they just turned crispy,yellow and died, some didnt even yellow just crispy green leaves, never seen that before, and it happened fast like from healthy to crisp in 4-5 days, my skunk 11,gdp,and a purple power,oh and one blue dream, after i switched back to reg ferts they are looking good, its a head scratcher
 
oh and muratic acid diluted is what im using for ph down, it contains sulfuric acid as the active ingredient,but i never put that in the organic ferts, and i only need a few drops in 5 gallons to get to 5.8
 
Could it be possible that one of the organic nutes you were using got contaminated somehow? Some of them are a bit heat sensitive.

A friend was having some issues, come to find out that it was contaminated cloning gel that was hindering them. We determined this after he got a new bottle and never had the problem again. It's kinda funny now but who would have thought that it was all the way at the beginning that they were being hindered. He replaced basically everything too, trays (rdwc), light, area, ballast, air pump/lines/stones basically he got a complete new hook up (aside from the nutes) and still had the issue. Only to be solved by a $25 bottle of cloning gel...
 
BigIrishDoode said:
oh and muratic acid diluted is what im using for ph down, it contains sulfuric acid as the active ingredient,but i never put that in the organic ferts, and i only need a few drops in 5 gallons to get to 5.8
Click to expand...

Yikes.

Muriatic acid is HCL......HydroChloric Acid. There's not a drop of sulfur, or sulfuric acid. But it is loaded with chlorine!

And that chlorine will 100% ruin the CEC of your medium and poison your plants.

Again, you're loading your feed water with chlorine.....and it doesn't take much. Please stop using muriatic acid!
 
ok i will, but i dont know what else to use right now my ph after nutes is right at 6.9-7.1 to high for coco, its been working for a year without issue, not till i started with the organic nutes and quit adjusting ph did i have a problem, very confusing im gonna check but im sure itsays sulfuric acid on the bottle, i dilute it to 1/4 acid 3/4 distilled water and use that to adjust, it takes 3 ml to hit 5.8 in 5 gal
 
BigIrishDoode said:
ok i will, but i dont know what else to use right now my ph after nutes is right at 6.9-7.1 to high for coco, its been working for a year without issue, not till i started with the organic nutes and quit adjusting ph did i have a problem, very confusing im gonna check but im sure itsays sulfuric acid on the bottle, i dilute it to 1/4 acid 3/4 distilled water and use that to adjust, it takes 3 ml to hit 5.8 in 5 gal
Click to expand...

If you're using Muriatic Acid, you're using HCL......HydroChloric Acid. Hydrogen and Chlorine.....the hydrogen is what makes it acidic.

I don't grow in coco. I tried. I don't understand the medium at all. The CEC is all different, it's pH sensitive, it's hard to establish healthy biology. I'm just not clever enough to make plants grow in coco.

I do know this:

Coco seems to suck up Calcium and hang on to it for dear life....meaning it's simply not fit for High Brix. I'm sure some "nice plants" are grown in coco all day long by 1000's of growers, yada, yada. That's great and all. I just don't understand how to grow high quality weed in a medium that won't support a healthy microherd. High yield of "dank" weed? Sure, coco can do that. I don't smoke weed like that, however. Neither will anyone who has tried high brix. We're all horrible snobs now.

But back to your dilemma.....adding chlorine is gonna ruin your grow.
 
doc i respect you greatly and you are a wealth of knowlege, i know you know your shit, but i have an honest belief high brix can be done in coco with proper amendments ,it does hold some calcium however once that need is met it is satisfied and plenty of ca will be avalible, i have very sucessfully grown the herd in coco,i tested and proved it for corey so he could say the organic line is coco safe, as far as i know i was the first one to do a sucessful run in coco with that line, i have found so far that adding epsoma garden lime (ca &mg) to the coco as well as gypsum and azomite the coco will easily support mycos and ca is not an issue ,its very different than soil in approach, but i have seen plants behave exactly as high brix plants do (glossy leaves,tropisim praying and quickly tracking light etc) i just have not been able to get a refractometer to take tests, i have expirenced the "clean high with no cealing" effect you have described its different and far better than the plants i grew before, i think im close ,this hiccup im having now is a first in several grows and i will find out the cause,, my plants are doing good (have a look 5.1 journal) i dont think they are poisoned, i will check in a few whats in the ph down im using, perhaps i miss spoke when i said muratic, but thing is im on a mission to see if hb can be acheived in coco,like any man on a mission i cant abandon it till i know im sure you can understand, i have seen things growing in coco that are impressive and i gotts to see it thru, and if i fail and ruin 1000 plants so be it, its in the intrest of science and knowlege, and perhaps in the end you can say i told you so lol and i'll be buying kits off you!!
 
BigIrishDoode said:
doc i respect you greatly and you are a wealth of knowlege, i know you know your shit, but i have an honest belief high brix can be done in coco with proper amendments ,it does hold some calcium however once that need is met it is satisfied and plenty of ca will be avalible, i have very sucessfully grown the herd in coco,i tested and proved it for corey so he could say the organic line is coco safe, as far as i know i was the first one to do a sucessful run in coco with that line, i have found so far that adding epsoma garden lime (ca &mg) to the coco as well as gypsum and azomite the coco will easily support mycos and ca is not an issue ,its very different than soil in approach, but i have seen plants behave exactly as high brix plants do (glossy leaves,tropisim praying and quickly tracking light etc) i just have not been able to get a refractometer to take tests, i have expirenced the "clean high with no cealing" effect you have described its different and far better than the plants i grew before, i think im close ,this hiccup im having now is a first in several grows and i will find out the cause,, my plants are doing good (have a look 5.1 journal) i dont think they are poisoned, i will check in a few whats in the ph down im using, perhaps i miss spoke when i said muratic, but thing is im on a mission to see if hb can be acheived in coco,like any man on a mission i cant abandon it till i know im sure you can understand, i have seen things growing in coco that are impressive and i gotts to see it thru, and if i fail and ruin 1000 plants so be it, its in the intrest of science and knowlege, and perhaps in the end you can say i told you so lol and i'll be buying kits off you!!
Click to expand...

When you've had enough of the coco....drop me a line!

Calcium is king. It's the number one element that provides reproductive energy, it is essential for all functions in the plant AND it is what the microherd craves.

Limestone is where you want to be....not dolomite. Epsoma garden lime is dolomite.

You may very well be right about coco and you probably know much more about it than I do. I've not had any success with it and you have....so that right there is proof that you know more about coco than I do!!!

But I do know my chemistry and I'm beginning to understand some concepts about soil agronomy, crop science and energy....and chlorine is NOT what you want to be adding. Plants need a bit of it.....but adding HCL sounds like a really bad idea to me.

Lemme know how it turns out!
 
docyou know i will, and i will likely have questions for you, in the near future, like what can i use to lower ph that wont kill the herd, would fruit juice or vinegar work?:high-five:
 
BigIrishDoode said:
docyou know i will, and i will likely have questions for you, in the near future, like what can i use to lower ph that wont kill the herd, would fruit juice or vinegar work?:high-five:
Click to expand...

Lemon juice will work. Citric acid is probably best.

Why not let the herd adjust pH? That's what they do.

pH in the rhizosphere can vary from 4 to 9 in a day. It all depends on what project the critters are working on.

They like to live in a pH between 6 and 7, ideally around 6.4 or 6.5. But even though the soil as a whole has a pH of 6.4, locally, at the cellular level, the pH can vary greatly. That's what humic acid is all about.
 
Doc Bud said:
Lemon juice will work. Citric acid is probably best.

Why not let the herd adjust pH? That's what they do.

pH in the rhizosphere can vary from 4 to 9 in a day. It all depends on what project the critters are working on.

They like to live in a pH between 6 and 7, ideally around 6.4 or 6.5. But even though the soil as a whole has a pH of 6.4, locally, at the cellular level, the pH can vary greatly. That's what humic acid is all about.
Click to expand...

thats what i was doing till i had 4 different plants/strains go to hell a month into flower i checked ph saw that 9-10 and freaked, it was a 5 gallon bucket of bubbling nutes/mykos the thing i had been doing for months, so i decided to switch back to salts temporarily to see what happened and they are looking great, it was not just one batch, it happened over a period of time, the first 2 plants croaked, i just wrote it off to whatever, then a few weeks later 2 more did it again, i checked thoroughly for bugs etc and found nothing, at this point its a total mystery, other than the ph i found nothing off, the root mass's looked fine, i even tried flushing and recharging with fresh nutes (mild) foliar fed mild seaweed and superthrive for stress, and the gdp started to make a comeback at least i thought so, then the after a few days it was all the way crispy, all leaves, i even cut off all the bad left a little bit of the very few not totaly dead parts stuck it under a few cfls in an attempt to reveg, nope dead the next day, its like it totaly shut off, but clones from it are thriving on the bpn 3 part high yeild system, i dont know wtf?
 
Back
Top Bottom