Creating Female Seeds Using Colloidal Silver - With High Brix

It's been awhile since I updated on my fem seed girls. AK47 responded nicely and produced a ton of seeds on my small clone.
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The pollen sacs on the other strains (818 HB, Bubblelicious, WW) didn't open up on their own. I took the sacs that fell off the plants on their own and chopped them and placed on buds. Hopefully they will have seeds. I'll update on them when I open up the buds.

I have a tds meter that reads in microsiemens. These were sprayed with a solution at 125 ms. Not sure what that is in PPM. I think roughly 70% of 125 is PPM from what I researched on my meter manufacturer. Going to try it at 100ms for these Bubble Gum clones and stop spraying as soon as I see male signs. Hopefully that will make the sacs less stubborn and open up on their own.
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Has anyone else had problems with pollen sacs not opening on there own using colloidal silver? I use the same one as Gov and some of the others on here.
 
I had some not open, but I attributed it to my own impatience, because thereafter I just let it go longer and shook it over a black card stock as they opened...which they did.

Is it showing signs of reversal yet?
 
The sacs will fall off the plant without ever opening up. It's like they don't produce enough pollen to burst or something. Just a guess. I'll try and let them go longer and maybe the younger ones will eventually fill up and open. I'm giving them a week head start in flower this time before flowering the recipient clones. Just started spraying them this morning.
 
That's what I did AS. I separated them by a week and the timing was really good. I had some collected pollen just as the pollen recipients were starting to ovulate (21 days into flower). I dusted them twice. Once really early then again a few days later...just to make sure.

I'm pulling for you.
 
Mine developed in about a month which worked out well for me. A week separation and the females were put into flower too. Just as the male flowers were starting to open, the females were entering into peak ovulation (usually happens between 21-28 days). Progression goes pretty fast once they show too, but as Ziggy stated way back in the beginning of this thread...get the pollen first. With a strain you're familiar with, you can wade right in, but if you aren't sure, I'd suggest at least a 10-day separation from the time you start to spray, to the time you put the ones to be seeded into flower. Longer is fine too, you'll just have to have a way to store viable pollen until it's needed.

:cool:
 
Governmentchz said:
Mine developed in about a month which worked out well for me. A week separation and the females were put into flower too. Just as the male flowers were starting to open, the females were entering into peak ovulation (usually happens between 21-28 days). Progression goes pretty fast once they show too, but as Ziggy stated way back in the beginning of this thread...get the pollen first. With a strain you're familiar with, you can wade right in, but if you aren't sure, I'd suggest at least a 10-day separation from the time you start to spray, to the time you put the ones to be seeded into flower. Longer is fine too, you'll just have to have a way to store viable pollen until it's needed.

:cool:
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I'm self pollinating an Autoflower. My plan is to use two lower branches to pollinate the rest of the plant. I have been spraying for 6 days now. Leaves are curled and are growing deformed on the areas sprayed. Still have a nice green color though. Rest of the plant is growing normal.
 
Don't sweat the curling/deformation...full speed ahead!

:cool:

EDIT Oh, and for those wondering what the Laniakeas look like:

Here are some pics of the unseeded plants a few days before harvest. The one in the front is the #3, and the dark green smaller plant to the left is an unseeded, untopped clone of #3 too. The one to the right is phenotype #1 (I used a #1 clone to reverse and did NOT pollinate the other #1 clone). The one directly behind the front #3 is the #2 phenotype. The differences aren't as obvious in the pics...of course.

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These next two are of the phenotype #3:

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...and this one is the #2 phenotype.

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I'm digging for more profile shots instead of bud shots to give an idea of structure etc,
 
Governmentchz said:
Don't sweat the curling/deformation...full speed ahead!

:cool:

EDIT Oh, and for those wondering what the Laniakeas look like:

Here are some pics of the unseeded plants a few days before harvest. The one in the front is the #3, and the dark green smaller plant to the left is an unseeded, untopped clone of #3 too. The one to the right is phenotype #1 (I used a #1 clone to reverse and did NOT pollinate the other #1 clone). The one directly behind the front #3 is the #2 phenotype. The differences aren't as obvious in the pics...of course.

panorama4.jpg


These next two are of the phenotype #3:

L3_2.jpg

L3_1.jpg


...and this one is the #2 phenotype.

L228.jpg


I'm digging for more profile shots instead of bud shots to give an idea of structure etc,
Click to expand...

I can't find any information anywhere regarding the strain Laniakeas. They look beautiful!
 
:nomo:
 
Mpfstc said:
I can't find any information anywhere regarding the strain Laniakeas. They look beautiful!
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I agree, nice looking buds!
Gov, have you done a smoke report on the Laniakeas yet that I missed? What percentage Indica are they? Sorry for the questions but there doesn't seem to be much info out there on this strain (or else I'm looking in the wrong places (again :-)

Thanks

Edited to add... You posted while I was typing.
 
BeaverIslander said:
I agree, nice looking buds!
Gov, have you done a smoke report on the Laniakeas yet that I missed? What percentage Indica are they? Sorry for the questions but there doesn't seem to be much info out there on this strain (or else I'm looking in the wrong places (again :-)

Thanks

Edited to add... You posted while I was typing.
Click to expand...

Hey Beaver...ya , you will NOT find any info on this strain on the WEB unless it comes from a few of us growers here on the Mag who were here when it was created by it's originator (previous member).Only a few people have these genetics! Cheers eh! Oh ya,...i remember what O.P.P. stands for now, i believe there's a purple pussy involved!;)
 
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