Cottage 420's Organic Perpetual Indoor Garden

What I do with aeration is mix in by volume.

So say I wanted 15 gallons of soil I would:

5 gal bucket of peat moss
5 gal bucket of aeration (rice hulls or per-lite)
5 gal bucket of humus

add in my amendments to the above.

Don't worry about weight.... rice hulls are pretty light as is per-lite. You want to measure by volume not weight.

When I order them it's by the lb, so to do 5 gal I'd need to figure out how many pounds to order .
 
It's totally blurred, I can't read it.

Didn't realize it'd be too blurry to read...


lb/A units...

P 1020
K 2249
Ca 9049
Mg 1309

ppm units from here...

Zn 13.5
Mn 20.3
Cu 0.3
Fe 8.4
B 5.4

Soil pH 7.2
Est. CEC 31.2
Base Sat. 100%
Ca. Sat. 72.7
Mg. Sat. 17.3
K Sat 10%

But like Bob was saying, seems like pretty good numbers.

Maybe I never let it "cook" long enough? I gave it 4 weeks, but I put a good bit of neem seed meal in there.
 
Didn't realize it'd be too blurry to read...


lb/A units...

P 1020
K 2249
Ca 9049
Mg 1309

ppm units from here...

Zn 13.5
Mn 20.3
Cu 0.3
Fe 8.4
B 5.4

Soil pH 7.2
Est. CEC 31.2
Base Sat. 100%
Ca. Sat. 72.7
Mg. Sat. 17.3
K Sat 10%

But like Bob was saying, seems like pretty good numbers.

Maybe I never let it "cook" long enough? I gave it 4 weeks, but I put a good bit of neem seed meal in there.
Base saturation of Ca is too high, it should be around 65-68%. But the ratio of Ca:Mg is almost perfect. However, you have twice the potassium you need. What is the CEC of that? Around 200-250?

Edit: Base saturation of Ca is too high (rare thing), it should be around 65-68%. But the ratio of Ca:Mg is almost perfect. However, you have twice the potassium you need.

Your CEC is way too low, which is probably why your base saturation is through the roof. This might mean most of it won't be exchangeable, cause it'll stick with carbon in soil Potassium levels are excessive for this CEC, but also surpass optimal P:K balance. I'd cut it with some EWC or compost. This will bring CEC up and lower the bsse saturation.

Yeah I just double checked. With your soil you should cut down potassium by 50-70% and try to lower Ca/Mg saturation slightly. If you add organic matter and more carbon-based material you'll have perfect soil with higher CEC that should rock after getting some microlife there :thumb:
 
Base saturation of Ca is too high, it should be around 65-68%. But the ratio of Ca:Mg is almost perfect. However, you have twice the potassium you need. What is the CEC of that? Around 200-250?

Edit: Base saturation of Ca is too high (rare thing), it should be around 65-68%. But the ratio of Ca:Mg is almost perfect. However, you have twice the potassium you need.

Your CEC is way too low, which is probably why your base saturation is through the roof. This might mean most of it won't be exchangeable, cause it'll stick with carbon in soil Potassium levels are excessive for this CEC, but also surpass optimal P:K balance. I'd cut it with some EWC or compost. This will bring CEC up and lower the bsse saturation.

Yeah I just double checked. With your soil you should cut down potassium by 50-70% and try to lower Ca/Mg saturation slightly. If you add organic matter and more carbon-based material you'll have perfect soil with higher CEC that should rock after getting some microlife there :thumb:

Thanks. Weird I thought 30% was a good CEC range? But I don't really understand, does it vary depending on the Ca/MG saturation ratio what is a "good" CEC?

So the mix that I had tested, was actually diluted with EWC/Perflite from my first initial mix that was wayyyy too hot. I added 1 gallon of that hot-mix to 4 gallons of EWC/Perlite to make the mix that those numbers are for. Maybe I should try 1 gallon of hot-mix to 8 gallons of EWC/perlite? I had thought about starting over entirely, but I still have a couple gallons of the hot-mix and by the sounds of it I could dilute that into quite a lot of EWC/Perlite and have some pretty fine nutritious soil?
 
Thanks. Weird I thought 30% was a good CEC range? But I don't really understand, does it vary depending on the Ca/MG saturation ratio what is a "good" CEC?

So the mix that I had tested, was actually diluted with EWC/Perflite from my first initial mix that was wayyyy too hot. I added 1 gallon of that hot-mix to 4 gallons of EWC/Perlite to make the mix that those numbers are for. Maybe I should try 1 gallon of hot-mix to 8 gallons of EWC/perlite? I had thought about starting over entirely, but I still have a couple gallons of the hot-mix and by the sounds of it I could dilute that into quite a lot of EWC/Perlite and have some pretty fine nutritious soil?
I think this will explain it better:

Cation Exchange Capacity and Base Saturation | UGA Cooperative Extension

CEC of 30 wouldn't be bad for an outdoor soil, but as you raise organic matter content it should go up significantly. For potting soil you have to go higher, cause otherwise your plants won't be able to extract all these cations.

Did you use sphagnum peat as a base or loam?

One thing bothers me, your PH, which is ok, but you didn't get hydrogen concentration in this test at all, which contributes to base saturation. And it's impossible that you don't have it! What they might've done is they only tested the soil at this PH as it's easier for them and your real PH is totally different.

But after cutting it slightly it should be perfect. Just don't mess with Ca/Mg as it's almost ideal (7:1).
 
House smells like a different kind of skunk tonight! Poor dog went and got blasted on her potty break. Any tips on removing that stench?

Not sure where you live, but rubbing her/him down really well with dirt and then a bath works wonders. Work the dirt into the coat for a while and toss it. Then a reg shampoo. Should do the trick. Tomato juice..not great...white vinegar works, but then the poor thing smells like salad.

Good luck...been there..many times. For such a bright beast, dogs is stupid :P

lol I wondered where you were based on whether or not the ground would be frozen...totally slipped my mind that dirt really isnt in short supply around here :)
 
I think this will explain it better:

Cation Exchange Capacity and Base Saturation | UGA Cooperative Extension

CEC of 30 wouldn't be bad for an outdoor soil, but as you raise organic matter content it should go up significantly. For potting soil you have to go higher, cause otherwise your plants won't be able to extract all these cations.

Did you use sphagnum peat as a base or loam?

One thing bothers me, your PH, which is ok, but you didn't get hydrogen concentration in this test at all, which contributes to base saturation. And it's impossible that you don't have it! What they might've done is they only tested the soil at this PH as it's easier for them and your real PH is totally different.

But after cutting it slightly it should be perfect. Just don't mess with Ca/Mg as it's almost ideal (7:1).

Interesting on the pH. I know I kind of cheaped out, usually they test organic matter too. Maybe it would be part of that test.

Any recommendations on how much to cut it by?

I used peat moss, but actually used Sunshine Mix #4 instead of actual peat moss, so I think that perfect Ca/Mg ratio might have something to do with the fact that they pre-treat it with lime, but I did add about 18 tbsps of lime ( 1 per gallon ) when I mixed as well. I was thinking about switching to oyster shell flour and real peat moss, but since it seems like the numbers are good on this I should just find something to cut it down and not mess with the concentrations of anything? Maybe save new ingredients for a totally fresh batch or when I need to add more stuff down the road.

@VS,

Coco does sound interesting. I might try EWC and coco because I found I had to add tons of perlite to keep the drainage right. My end mix was like 50% perlite.
 
Add around 20% more EWC mixed with coco and you should be fine. You have already shitloads of peat there and it really raises CEC... but it's only 30 weird. Also organic matter is the source of hydrogen, so this will push down Ca/Mg saturation a litttle bit.
 
Interesting on the pH. I know I kind of cheaped out, usually they test organic matter too. Maybe it would be part of that test.

Any recommendations on how much to cut it by?

I used peat moss, but actually used Sunshine Mix #4 instead of actual peat moss, so I think that perfect Ca/Mg ratio might have something to do with the fact that they pre-treat it with lime, but I did add about 18 tbsps of lime ( 1 per gallon ) when I mixed as well. I was thinking about switching to oyster shell flour and real peat moss, but since it seems like the numbers are good on this I should just find something to cut it down and not mess with the concentrations of anything? Maybe save new ingredients for a totally fresh batch or when I need to add more stuff down the road.

@VS,

Coco does sound interesting. I might try EWC and coco because I found I had to add tons of perlite to keep the drainage right. My end mix was like 50% perlite.

Here's a little quote from CC over on KIS about peat moss
3.8 bales like you and I use, or have used, whatever, those are cut and wrapped at site. They're not processed. Now the stuff that is bagged, we'll talk about it cause that is dried in a kiln, they call it sterilization so it kill the microbes, then you bring it down to big plants like the one in Woodburn, it's ground to a consistent size and now it's hit with steam, why? Well you've got to get it wet again because when the customer opens the bag they're going to say; Oh God, look how fresh this is. Not really but - so it's been sterilized in an oven in kiln...

Tad: You're talking about the stuff used for cloning or you're talking about smaller than a 3.8 bale?

Jim: Yeah, the stuff that goes in the bag stuff like Sunshine Mix

Basically the peat from sunshine mix, pro mix etc. has been sterilized to kill all the microbes, then ground down and steamed. Buy the cheaper stuff in the 3.8 bales, cheaper & better...can't beat that!
 
Getting good with that camera I see..................... Nice plants sure help'''''''


Keepem Green
 
I don't know Fert. My first grow.....I used the earth juice crystals for pH'ing down my water from 9.2 range to the 6.5 range.

This grow I have changed.....I start aerating my tap water (9.2) for 2 days or so and I am finding my pH is falling during that process to the 7.5 range. From there I have been adding in the ACT components and brewing for 24-48 hours. I haven't even checked the pH of the ACT I use......but whatever it is, it doesn't seem to be doing anything negative

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I haven't had my soil analyzed yet so no clue what my soil's pH is. I do plan on having it analyzed here at some point just too see.

I wish I could offer you better advice on the soil and pH issues you are having Fert.
Man tht top pic u have there of tht lil solid green beautie looks healthy as shit lol. Those leaves almost look fake like a wax plant or sumthn they are so healthy haha great job man congrats.
 
Man tht top pic u have there of tht lil solid green beautie looks healthy as shit lol. Those leaves almost look fake like a wax plant or sumthn they are so healthy haha great job man congrats.

Oh it definitely looks fake! Me and Ms Stank say that every time we pull that plant out of the tent. She's definitely loving her soil! She is about 9 inches tall, throwing out 11 bladed fan leaves, and is working on its 14th node.
 
Oh it definitely looks fake! Me and Ms Stank say that every time we pull that plant out of the tent. She's definitely loving her soil! She is about 9 inches tall, throwing out 11 bladed fan leaves, and is working on its 14th node.
Dam nice n 11 bladed leaves i wish i could grow one like tht lol great job tho 4 real
 
A cup weighs approximately 1 ounce. So 16 cups (gallon) would be 16 ounces (lb) Sounds to me like you would need 5 lbs

Spot on thanks for the conversion LH - I went to the beer brewing crowd to confirm... and confirmed.


Harvested a perfect plant today... man that was tough.

Dolato #1 - pic before flop. She just decided that it was too hard to keep those big beautiful buds standing tall and many of the side branches flopped last night.

I gotta say this was one easy plant to grow.. her stall mate beside her had a slight mite outbreak and there was no a single issue with this plant. Fast finish too. I had to crawl back in there and move plants to get to her for harvest. I was covered in sticky, smelled like dank , thought I was in heaven there for a sec. Most of the large fans were done and falling off. Hung on the hook and took the rest off and on to the drying line she's there... hefty little biddy too. Going to get a nice haul. Buffalato #1 there in the green on the left..

Pre-flop pic:

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Dolato #1 - Side cola ... plump & sticky calyx - maybe the stickiest plant I've ever dealt with.. on par with Labyrinth.

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Dolato #1 - side cola bud shot:

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Where's your father ... Luke! .. sluuuurrrrp.

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PMB #1 - thinking she's a poly-ploid.

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PMB #1 again

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Buffalato #1 - close up under skirt buddage.. starting to see some promise here. VERY fast flowering like Dolato and Labyrinth.

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PMB #2 - frost pic

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PMB #2 - nug

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PMB #2 - Twin nuggs

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PMB #2 - More nuggers

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PMB #2 - More nuggers closer upper!

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Hoisting up a cheery glass to :420:

Cheers!
 
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