Conradino23 Keeps On Keeping On Outdoor & Indoor Using LOS/High Brix Methods

Con thanks for that article on Sulfur and terpines.

I love reading that kind of research.

I find it interesting the Sulfur thing. I bought some of that msm stuff food grade and tried it. Ahem... Sulfur certainly brought out some special terpines in me thats a for sure. Pheeeeew-ey lordy.

There was an evacuation order in the bedroom the next morning. lol

I'm gonna try a little bit maybe foiler on some. Definitely add some to my compost bin for sure.

The interesting part tho is that the region we are moving to in upstate NY - there's sulfur in the water. Enough to need filtering (unless you like gas). There is a huge grape/wine industry there where in the same location. Finger Lakes region.

They use well water to water plants. They have some serious soil scientists and horticulturalists working there from Cornell University helping out the grape industry. I wouldn't be surprised if there's been a fair amount of research on Sulfur and how it relates to plant and plant growth and taste at Cornell.
 
I don't think rockwool would travel in the soil either due to it being so fibrous. If anything it'll disintegrate.

When mixing nutes, sulfur seems to be the most plentiful element, at least in my inventory so when formulating a regimen, I usually get more sulfur than I want. I'm eager to begin mixing soils to see what I can manipulate and unfortunately learn the hard way what I can't manipulate. I hope when that time comes I will be as informed as I could be to have a better show at guessing various ranges. Look at me planning to create problems to fix.
 
Hey SkyB... I just transplanted a new cut with a 1g coco rootball, into a 3g soil pot. I've done it with quarts, solos, and rockwool plugs too with no issues. Round thick hydro roots will adapt to soil, but it takes time and energy. Maybe two weeks Veg and I'll flower it. The coco core will be great to dump drenches into, and the soil will buffer out the spikes. I'll need to water in nutes to the coco core until the roots are able to use the nutrients in the soil though.
 
bobrown14 said:
I use clay balls that are the size we see in DWC. They don't migrate. They are heavier than the soil particles sitting on top of them. Plus the root ball holds everything together.

I let the pot sit about 2 weeks after chop without water, the main stem just pulls out with a small amount of root. I plant another plant in the spot where the old stem was and next round on its way.

I have more pots than spots in the flower room so I'm always in rotation with the pots. Letting roots compost a few weeks. Another pot will already be in flower so I don't miss any time in transition.

I'm not advocating this system by any means. Just works for my situation right here right now. I tried blue-mats and found that system to be tedious at best.

Only reason I went from HID to LED and automated watering was so we could go on vacation for a week and not worry about it. It's evolved some.

I'm lazy so like to set up and walk away and not mess with plants and watering.
Thats what our outdoor gardens are for. lol

Check out these trichomes on the flower petals. I think thats the plant saying leave me alone I know what I'm doing. lol

Flower Porn Warning !!

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  • Media owner bobrown14
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Anna's Gift
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Cool. I've had them work their way up in mine. I use those pellets for my clones and they get in my soil mix sometimes. Perolite definitely works it's way up wards in my pots over time.

Beautiful flower!
CareStaker said:
Hey SkyB... I just transplanted a new cut with a 1g coco rootball, into a 3g soil pot. I've done it with quarts, solos, and rockwool plugs too with no issues. Round thick hydro roots will adapt to soil, but it takes time and energy. Maybe two weeks Veg and I'll flower it. The coco core will be great to dump drenches into, and the soil will buffer out the spikes. I'll need to water in nutes to the coco core until the roots are able to use the nutrients in the soil though.
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The coco core should work well with high brix. From what I've heard, it helps with the cationic exchange.
 
I actually think that coco will work better than peat... at least it has water holding capacity similar to soil. But it has a higher C:N ratio than peat, between 90-110:1, so you really need to up your nitrogen if you don't wanna get into trouble very quickly. It'll also work as cloning medium... I've been actually thinking about using it for this reason.
 
I was reading about how sulfur works with other nutrients. It helps with K uptake and that has a huge affect on the taste of the grapes and the pH of the grape juice.
We grow gooseberries - the skin has a Potassium flavor to it - well that's the first thing I said to my wife, these taste like Potassium (whatever that tastes like lol).
 
conradino23 said:
I actually think that coco will work better than peat... at least it has water holding capacity similar to soil. But it has a higher C:N ratio than peat, between 90-110:1, so you really need to up your nitrogen if you don't wanna get into trouble very quickly. It'll also work as cloning medium... I've been actually thinking about using it for this reason.
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Peat is my preferred medium. I love peat. I love coco too, but but more in the sense of what coco - brings to peat. I've run so many ratios of soil:coco, from 100% peat soil to 100% coco, both organic/sythns, and always come back to a peat majority medium. There's usually significant coco and perlite in there too. I find that the lower pH of peat, allows for more mineral content without moving the solids outside of the uptake zone, when also buffering against high levels of Ca. I settled on about 25% coco mix in a peat based soil, and find that that is where I find the best success with my approach.

Full Coco will grow much bigger plants, quicker, yield more etc. But I don't like the product as much as I like sticky gooey smelly rank soil buds that knock people out. ;)

The extra N is always needed in my setup... I don't cut N even on OGs. But there's not much in the medium by wk3 anyway.
 
CareStaker said:
The extra N is always needed in my setup... I don't cut N even on OGs. But there's not much in the medium by wk3 anyway.
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Hey CS whats up with the N and OG's?

I'm awaiting some OG beans now and Skywalker OG's
 
Tody we have the Ciskei gals!

Ciskei #1

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Ciskei #2

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:smokin2:
 
I agree, very pretty plants :)
 
Hmmm I think all African landraces are realated to each other. Damn, Thai is related to Santa Marta Gold :)

I don’t know how Durban smokes. My experience is limited to Malawi as far ad African sativas are concerned.

Ciskei aka. Bushmans is a heirloom from Drakensberg Mountains in SA (27S) and it’s usually described as an uplifting and happy strain less racy than Durban.

I’m sure @Lerugged will know more!
 
Less racey - lol.

That something of interest to me for sure.

The Durban version I run is energetic and has a good effect on how music sounds and feels. Makes me wanna dance.
 
That’s why I’m looking forward to the harvest and I’ll definitely preserve the line seeing it’s as close to narrow leaf cultivar as it’s possible. If they’re ready in reasonable time that’ll be another plus... well come Fall I’ll have some beans to give away to all interested in working the line.
 
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