Hey
@Keffka ! Perfect timing!
I will really have to do some head scratching now!
Layers and spikes both have similar purposes. Layers are established in the container to give the roots access to a general set of nutrients in specific places, as well as to help supercharge the microbes in the places they really congregate.
Hahaha, "Where dem likes to hang out, mon? Where be dey congregations?
This is also really useful for myco expansion. Myco growth is discouraged by the presence of P (Phosphorus), but P is also very important in all stages. Myco is the best releaser of P as well
So, it is kind of a self-regulating releaser of P??
(And is that why everyone seems to love DynoMyco?? Or is it for different reasons?)
so you want to have myco colonization.
Sorry, that is a new term for me. "Myco colonization."
(Frankly, I am not clear on the relationship between microbes and myco.
Does myco release microbes? Or how does that work?
You can use this knowledge to establish sources of P in specific locations so the plant will have access to it as needed, and you’ll be able to grow out a successful myco colony. These aren’t the only benefits but they’re the ones that really caught my eye.
Spikes are a bit more strain and phase dependent. Spikes are meant to deliver phase and strain specific nutrients in a location that allows the plants roots to decide when and how much of it they want. When you spike a blend and allow the roots to discover it they will tap the deposit and use it as needed. They won’t waste energy hunting down small amounts of required nutrients because they will have a large source in one spot they can feed from. It’s similar to how the SIP allows the plant to decide how much water it wants instead of us just drenching it based on our perception. Instead of just pouring nutrients all over the place forcing the plant to our perception, we leave deposits for the plant to tap.
Thank you very much! That was clear. And very interesting!
You are stocking the pantry for them, then? And they come get what they want, when they want?
Layers and spikes serve similar purposes in different ways. Nitrogen and phosphorus cannot be added globally to the soil mix in sufficient amounts, or there would be big problems with the microlife.
Ahhh!!
Ummm, but in that case, does microlife thrive in supersoil?
Because in these SIPs it is all supersoil, except for about a Solo Cup's worth (for starting).
So instead we use spikes to deliver the amounts required by the plant without upsetting the balance of the microlife.For instance, P is critical to cannabis growth but it’s presence discourages myco growth. Myco is the single best releaser of P. So you need enough P to feed a plant but not so much that Myco won’t colonize. You can use a spike for this so the myco will grow and can tap the source of P.
Is it correct to think that myco releases beneficial microbes? (I tried Googling it, but got unrelated answers.)
And do those beneficial microbes thrive in supersoil?
Same thing for the layers. We put down layers of nutrients as well as organic matter to give the plant and roots the supplies necessary to fuel the plants growth without upsetting the balance of life in the container. Doing these things empowers the plant and the micro life in the soil to take charge of its growth and deliver the nutrients it needs when it decides it needs it. Similar to what we’re doing with the SIP and allowing the plant and roots to decide the water it wants.
Here’s an example of a flowering container with layers:
Ok, so now I am thinking to myself, "I must not know how plants work."
I can understand why you would want to put a layer of blood meal (or other high nitrogen blend) near the top of a top-watered container (except that everyone would scream unless I cooked it first). But why place most of the nitrogen placed on the bottom? Is the tap root able to access all that?
I would have thought that N near the top would be logical (for growth), and that near the bottom you would ideally want P for flowering. So why do they have most of the N near the bottom of the pot?
If you’re confident in the soils nutrient content then I’d advise just cooking it for 30 days to rid any sort of nasties in the mix.
Thank you! That is very helpful!
And maybe I am wrong, but I am thinking that 85-90% of the nutrition in those buckets is still there.
Because I have had great big photos growing in 5G with supersoil, and none of these little bitty autos got anywhere near that big.
If you’re unsure of the content in the soil then you’re gonna need to either get the soil tested or you can try a recycle recipe. Getting the soil tested is a sure way of knowing what’s in there and what needs to be added. Attempting a recycle recipe comes with risks. You could throw the balance off in the soil which will be hard to figure out.. You’ll also have to monitor your plants closely to watch for deficiencies or excesses and adjust from there.
Hmmm....
Oy.
Well, then, to think clearly, in these cloth pots, the bottom +/- 1/3 was supersoil. (I guess the buckets were 3Gs not 5Gs
)
The top 2/3 was canna soil with an extra 10-15% worm castings, molasses, top-dressings, etc.
Did I mention the grow was cut short?
Here is an autopsy on one of the larger plants. I don't see any roots in the supersoil (this is the pre-rice-hulls version).
Here is a smaller plant I tries to separate the top 2/3 but it didn't work so good.
And then here is the pre-rice-hull supersoil on the bottom, again with no roots.
So I don't know why there are no tap roots (unless they deteriorated or something).
Maybe the pre-rice-hull (pre-aeration) supersoil was so soggy, and so wet, that the roots maybe never even formed?
I don't see any roots, so would it work to separate the unusued supersoil, mix in the rice hulls, and then let it cook again for 30 days?
Personally I would only recycle soils I know the content of and have been working with. That way I’m not spending time and energy using stuff I may not need just to create even more work for myself. I have only recently begun recycling and the method I prefer is running everything through a worm farm and using the castings.
Ok, thank you! I will need to revisit this question after this soil is spent the next time.
I think we can have soil tested. I think it is not too much (it just takes a really long time.) But if I have two batches of supersoil and can rotate, I should be able to deal with it.
So when this current batch in the SIPs is spent, then we can test that?
However, there are other gardeners here who are much more knowledgeable about recycling soils who may have an alternate opinion or method they can point you too. Checking out the organic forums here could be a useful place to start.
It will be great to get time!
Thank you!
What happened?? Lol!)