Code Name Kingston: Bringing Back A Special Auto Strain

I do it similar to Shed. A small tail or just cracked to me is time to go in some soil around 1/2 inch deep with the seedling warming mat set at 80F and the light set at 18/6. I mist twice a day to start to make sure they never dry out before they really get going.
 
Thanks for your input, @Tokin Roll .
I have many seeds that age and older, and still germinate. It has been mentioned, storage is important. I keep mind in an extra refrigerator I have, in the vegetable drawer; but the question at hand is getting them to germinate.
I actually don't know how old they are. Years. And not kept in a fridge.

You can scuff the surface of the seed with an emery board, match pack, even lightly with 200 grit sandpaper. Have you tried using slightly warm water, not hot? Temperature and moisture are the keys to get them to sprout.
Right now they are all on wet paper towel, and don't smell great. 6 cracked and had a root tip emerge but not develop. I took those 6 and did a little test – I planted 2 as a control; I planted 2 with a little myco in the hole; and I planted 2 after dipping in IBA (rooting gel). I am keeping hot water bottles in the cupboard, so the temperature is fluctuating between 72 and 80.

Does anyone know the definite, scientific answer as to why fresh seed will easily crack and quickly develop a growing root tip, and why old seed does what I'm seeing?
 
I do it similar to Shed. A small tail or just cracked to me is time to go in some soil around 1/2 inch deep with the seedling warming mat set at 80F and the light set at 18/6. I mist twice a day to start to make sure they never dry out before they really get going.
Are you talking about fresh seed or very old seed that hasn't been stored properly? 'Cuz I'm dealing with the latter.
 
Does anyone know the definite, scientific answer as to why fresh seed will easily crack and quickly develop a growing root tip, and why old seed does what I'm seeing?
I can find a lot of edu articles on the fact that it's better to germ newer than old, but this seems to be the best explanation of why (assuming it's accurate):

"During dormancy, genetic material is somewhat damaged, however, within cells there are enzymes which actually repair damaged DNA. In a seed cell, all functions, including enzymatic activity are held in a (nearly) suspended animation until seed dormancy is broken. One of the first things that happens is the enzymes go to work repairing the genetic material. If the DNA is so damaged that the cell can not repair it, it goes into cell suicide (apoptosis, programmed cell death). If enough of the genetic material is irreparable, we would not see any germination. If the damage is reparable, then normal cell life continues, assuming favorable growing conditions. I think, overall, aside from germination rate, seed age will not have any significant effect on overall plant health and/or vigor."
Source
 
I can find a lot of edu articles on the fact that it's better to germ newer than old, but this seems to be the best explanation of why (assuming it's accurate):

"During dormancy, genetic material is somewhat damaged, however, within cells there are enzymes which actually repair damaged DNA. In a seed cell, all functions, including enzymatic activity are held in a (nearly) suspended animation until seed dormancy is broken. One of the first things that happens is the enzymes go to work repairing the genetic material. If the DNA is so damaged that the cell can not repair it, it goes into cell suicide (apoptosis, programmed cell death). If enough of the genetic material is irreparable, we would not see any germination. If the damage is reparable, then normal cell life continues, assuming favorable growing conditions. I think, overall, aside from germination rate, seed age will not have any significant effect on overall plant health and/or vigor."
Source
Thanks. This probably explains why the seed will open, and have a root tip, but the tip doesn't grow – it has some DNA damage. If the damage can be repaired, it will grow.

I have somewhere around 150-200 seeds on wet paper towel, and only 6 cracked and are now planted.

Does anyone think it's worth it to scuff 'em?
 
Why not try every tool in the shed?
OK, so maybe there's another theoretical possibility here, and that is, old seed that is still very much alive, but water is not penetrating the seed coat.🤔 Please raise your hand if you have experience overcoming this by scuffing the seed coat. If you raised your hand, did you scuff, soak, and plant – or did you scuff, soak, and germinate on paper towel first?

If this theory is correct, then perhaps scuffing isn't necessary at all – just soak, plant, and be patient.

I could scuff 1/2 of them, re-soak, and plant. The other half, just plant them now. I would be careful to keep them moist. If none emerge, when should I give up? One week? Thanks. 🤓
 
I always float my seeds before I plant them, but i do not want them to sink. In nature, seeds don't generally sprout at the bottom of a puddle but in moist, and oxygenated soil or leaf litter.

Scuffing them simply makes it easier for moisture to get beneath the seed coat and kick off the germination process. Be gentle, but I would for sure scuff the seed coat.
 
I always float my seeds before I plant them, but i do not want them to sink. In nature, seeds don't generally sprout at the bottom of a puddle but in moist, and oxygenated soil or leaf litter.
All of the seed I germinated in my other thread (Quest for mold-resistant strains) ... they all sank to the bottom. Most all of that seed was lively, and they sprouted just fine.

The seeds in this thread all sank to the bottom as well.

Scuffing them simply makes it easier for moisture to get beneath the seed coat and kick off the germination process. Be gentle, but I would for sure scuff the seed coat.
OK. But I may do the half-and-half experiment, just for fun.
 
OK, so maybe there's another theoretical possibility here, and that is, old seed that is still very much alive, but water is not penetrating the seed coat.🤔 Please raise your hand if you have experience overcoming this by scuffing the seed coat. If you raised your hand, did you scuff, soak, and plant – or did you scuff, soak, and germinate on paper towel first?

If this theory is correct, then perhaps scuffing isn't necessary at all – just soak, plant, and be patient.

I could scuff 1/2 of them, re-soak, and plant. The other half, just plant them now. I would be careful to keep them moist. If none emerge, when should I give up? One week? Thanks. 🤓
I'm a noob, and I hate to be the bearer of bad paraphrasing--and I am only regurgitating / paraphrasing what I read on the Royal Queen Seeds' website (I can find the article if you really need, but). Anyway, the point was that seeds are kind of like batteries. They get so many crank cycles before they won't crank any more. And each time they are exposed to light and warmth, they can go into crank cycle (startup, boot cycle). And each time the battery gets a little weaker. To paraphrase, if seeds are properly stored away from light and warmth, ideally in foil and bag in bag in a vegetable drawer, you can get maybe 5 years pretty reliably, and often years longer than that. HOWEVER if they are stored in an open bowl in the fridge and get exposed to light every time the door opens and Junior is midnight snacking in the fridge, this can start their cycle, and soon they are out of fuel. Same thing happens if stored in sunlight. That is a total paraphrase, but I hope that helps give some perspective (and I say that as a science guy).
 
I'm a noob, but I am just regurgitating paraphrasing what I read on the Royal Queen Seeds' website (I can find the article if you really need, but). Anyway, the point was that seeds are kind of like batteries. They get so many crank cycles before they won't crank any more. And each time they are exposed to light and warmth, they can go into crank cycle (startup, boot cycle). And each time the battery gets a little weaker. To paraphrase, if seeds are properly stored away from light and warmth, ideally in foil and bag in bag in a vegetable drawer, you can get maybe 5 years pretty reliably, and often years longer than that. HOWEVER if they are stored in an open bowl in the fridge and get exposed to light every time the door opens and Junior is midnight snacking in the fridge, this can start their cycle, and soon they are out of fuel. Same thing happens if stored in sunlight. That is a total paraphrase, but I hope that helps give some perspective (and I say that as a science guy).
Thanks. My understanding is that it's water and warmth, and that seeds are best germinated in a dark environment. I.e. if you are doing paper towel, then dark environment. If not, then they are buried in the soil, hence dark. Once they emerge, then light.

As far as I know, the seeds I'm trying to germinate were neither stored in cold nor protected from light.
 
There is a myth in seed starting that the viable ones will sink so some growers poke them down trying to convert them, I guess.

But really, the only thing that a sinking seed tells you is that enough moisture has reached beneath the seed coat to give it enough weight to overcome the buoyancy. It has  nothing to do with the actual viability of the seed kernel itself. It is true that that kernel needs extra moisture to kick off, but sinking is not the magical indicator some would like to believe.
 
Thanks. My understanding is that it's water and warmth, and that seeds are best germinated in a dark environment. I.e. if you are doing paper towel, then dark environment. If not, then they are buried in the soil, hence dark. Once they emerge, then light.

As far as I know, the seeds I'm trying to germinate were neither stored in cold nor protected from light.
Yeah. I get it. That is what I used to think also. Anyway, it may not be a definitive scientific study, but if Royal Queen Seeds is to be believed:
How to preserve seeds - Royal Queen Seeds.

IDEAL CONDITIONS FOR CANNABIS SEEDS​

Cannabis seeds have four main enemies:
1. Humidity
2. Temperature
3. Light
4. Oxygen

Ideally, you want to store your seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Whenever possible, keep your seeds in their original packaging. At Royal Queen Seeds, we’ve specially designed our packaging to protect our seeds until you’re ready to plant them.

If your seeds get exposed to light or rapid changes in temperature, these conditions will trigger them to use up their nutrient stores before they ever see soil, meaning they won’t have the nutrients they need to germinate. High humidity, on the other hand, can trigger fungi to grow on your seeds.

EFFECTS OF HUMIDITY ON CANNABIS SEEDS​

Humidity is easily one of the biggest threats to your seeds. Here is how different levels of humidity (% relative humidity) affect your cannabis seeds:

**

*Your mileage may vary

EDIT: Whoops! I better go check and see if they are a sponsor!! Hold on!!
 
There is a myth in seed starting that the viable ones will sink so some growers poke them down trying to convert them, I guess.
OK, but I was just letting you know sinking didn't affect the outcome negatively, that I know of. I did poke them down, but not because of any certain knowledge of anything.

But really, the only thing that a sinking seed tells you is that enough moisture has reached beneath the seed coat to give it enough weight to overcome the buoyancy. It has  nothing to do with the actual viability of the seed kernel itself. It is true that that kernel needs extra moisture to kick off, but sinking is not the magical indicator some would like to believe.
Does this mean that the 150-200 seeds I have now on paper towel... they all sank, so enough moisture reached beneath the seed coat? Hence, no sense in scuffing them?
 
Yeah. I get it. That is what I used to think also. Anyway, it may not be a definitive scientific study, but if Royal Queen Seeds is to be believed:
How to preserve seeds - Royal Queen Seeds.

IDEAL CONDITIONS FOR CANNABIS SEEDS​

Cannabis seeds have four main enemies:
1. Humidity
2. Temperature
3. Light
4. Oxygen

Ideally, you want to store your seeds in a cool, dark, and dry place. Whenever possible, keep your seeds in their original packaging. At Royal Queen Seeds, we’ve specially designed our packaging to protect our seeds until you’re ready to plant them.

If your seeds get exposed to light or rapid changes in temperature, these conditions will trigger them to use up their nutrient stores before they ever see soil, meaning they won’t have the nutrients they need to germinate. High humidity, on the other hand, can trigger fungi to grow on your seeds.

EFFECTS OF HUMIDITY ON CANNABIS SEEDS​

Humidity is easily one of the biggest threats to your seeds. Here is how different levels of humidity (% relative humidity) affect your cannabis seeds:

**

*Your mileage may vary
OK, I was talking germination... you are talking storage. I get it... but, I had no control over the storage of the seeds in this thread. I'm just trying to germinate them if possible. I doesn't look good.
 
OK, I was talking germination... you are talking storage. I get it... but, I had no control over the storage of the seeds in this thread. I'm just trying to germinate them if possible. I doesn't look good.
My condolences.
 
OK, but I was just letting you know sinking didn't affect the outcome negatively, that I know of. I did poke them down, but not because of any certain knowledge of anything.
If they sink for me before they show some leg, I always pour out some of the water so they're closer to O2 which they need as much as moisture. Some growers swear by hydrogen peroxide which serves two purposes. It adds oxygen to the water and helps kill off pathogens.

I only let them swim for about 48 hours if they haven't broken out before then. If they have, I plant them as soon as I see the white root which I plant facing down about 1/4" beneath the soil surface.

If they don't, I put them between sheets of paper towels in a half open plastic baggie to help keep the paper towels from drying out, but also giving access to oxygen, and then into a dark, warm place.

Also, my soak water has worm castings in it which helps battle pathogens like damping off disease.

Does this mean that the 150-200 seeds I have now on paper towel... they all sank, so enough moisture reached beneath the seed coat? Hence, no sense in scuffing them?
Yeah, scuffing is to let moisture in which sounds like it has already happened. And too aggressive scuffing can harm the seed kernel which you want to avoid.

So I'd say keep them in the dark at 80*F and moist to give them the best chance at germination.
 
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