Clones

Roots penetrating is typically enough but also consider snipping off sides & bottom of the mesh at transplant

my understanding is plants from seed will have main tap root but clones do not, they will just have side roots but no main… we’ve seen where roots are restricted by the mesh so best practices to eliminate potential problems up front.

The pressed peat cups can be difficult too, I’ve seen some at rootopsy where root penetration was not good, think it might help to soak them in water for a few days to start breaking them down before use or just peeling them off at transplant.
 
Roots penetrating is typically enough but also consider snipping off sides & bottom of the mesh at transplant

my understanding is plants from seed will have main tap root but clones do not, they will just have side roots but no main… we’ve seen where roots are restricted by the mesh so best practices to eliminate potential problems up front.

The pressed peat cups can be difficult too, I’ve seen some at rootopsy where root penetration was not good, think it might help to soak them in water for a few days to start breaking them down before use or just peeling them off at transplant.
Thanks for your help. Let me be a little more specific by enclosing a photo.
The clones were started on 7/21 and this is the first root that has penetrated.
How much more root growth is necessary for a final transplant? Ty

20240808_092734.jpg
 
Ok, I want to get this clone propagated. I have already lost 2. (My bad)
Upon doing my research, it's seems about
50/50 on the removal of the outer peat pod skin. I can see tiny fragile roots about to pop through, I don't want to damage them. I plan to put this in a 3 gallon pot with quality soil. How should I prepare the soil for transplant regarding water?
Water the whole pot, let drain and rest for a couple of days or mist the soil around where the pod will be placed? Any input I receive is greatly appreciated!
I love this forum and the polite and helpful peeps! But sometimes you get TMI and the head scratching begins! lol Ty!!
 
Hey cbgb,

it would be wrong for me to state all peat pucks are the same, but the jiffy brand that are compressed into discs and must be hydrated to swell up to working size… what happens is the roots are constricted by the tiny holes in the mesh… some peeps cut out just the bottom part of the mesh and leave the sides intact… others remove all of the mesh…. truly theres many ways to skin that cat

anywho the green hyperlink below takes you to all the comments made by 420 member InTheShed concerning peat pucks…. defs not trying to ditch you but rather give you better info to surf thru…

InTheShed… about peat pucks

I like to water few days ahead of time to get microlife awake and reporting for duty then run fan pointed at top of soil line to help dry down the soil mix- but there are numerous ways to go here too.
 
A healthy plant won't notice a few broken roots, but I've seen time and time again when I uproot plants that were planted with the peat intact that the roots are never as full and healthy as a plant that was not bound up that way. I've been finding it a lot in the flowers I bought for my yard this year (didn't have time to start my own due to personal problems) .... the plants will be doing great, then suddenly they aren't and I uproot them and find them in tiny plugs with barely any roots coming out of them.

How did you lose two? Did you just forget about them or something?

Myself I always thoroughly soak the media/container the plant is in before the transplant, and then I completely soak the whole pot when I'm done. (my soil is fox farms ocean forest + 10-15% perlite) Then I tip the container about 40-45 degrees and let any 'excess' water back out. Also I tend to give a little extra water, especially around the edges of the pot (keeping it 'damp' or 'moist'), for the first couple weeks after transplant. I don't believe this is 'necessary' but it feels like the plants appreciate it /shrug.
 
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