CKS Blueberry Grow

The whole point of the Cheshire grin is to help inoculate the soil with beneficial bacteria. They are what actually gives your plants their food. When is the last time you used it? It wouldn't hurt to use a little more. It won't burn your plants. As there shouldn't be any NPK value.

Dirt Man Dan
 
Be careful you don't drop your ph. You adding castings (N) on top of a soil high in bat guano (N).

When are you going to flower?


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Wait a minute.
You're already in flower?
Did you just give a flowering plant a large dose of Nitrogen?


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DirtManDan said:
I'm sure someone is gonna chime in and say that molasses is a sweetener and isn't feeding the plant. But I personally don't think this is true. If you look at the label on the back of a jar. It had large amounts of what a plant wants in food.. potassium calcium magnesium and iron.

Dirt Man Dan
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Dan is correct. Molasses is not a sweetener for cannabis. (Edited for clarity) It is a source of raw energy for mycobacterium (usually mycorrhizae) that love carbohydrates. Mycorrhizae help your plants rhizosphere so by feeding the mycorrhizae you are creating a root system that is beneficial to the plant. Adding molasses will not make your buds sweeter. Plants produce their own sugars (glucose) through photosynthesis. Adding sugar does nothing for photosynthesis. They make their own with CO2, Water and Light.
Please, please, please watch this short video from PBS. It's short and will teach you the very basics of the role of chemistry in plants as well as debunk many of the myths (set out by people who are NOT scientists) so prevalent in the Cannabis world.
Photosynthesis: Crash Course Biology #8 - YouTube


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Joel13 said:
The castings have almost 0 NPK

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Ok. Just be careful. Nitrogen during flowering results in smaller buds, reduced terpenes and less flavour.
Budding formulas say 1-12-10 (or something similar) for a very good reason.


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I hate to discourage you, but I've since switched my main nutrient to Canna Terra.
I was getting annoyed with the fact that the maxibloom didn't fully dissolve. Even in hot water. That and I got a book for Christmas. It's has since changed my outlook on growing.
It's called the hidden half of nature. And explains all about how the microbes in the soil are way more important than the salt based nutrients we normally give plants. So feed the soil. Not the plant.
The more microbes in your rhizoshphere the more available nutrients your plant will get.
So with that I've dropped the maxibloom. And possibly dropping the Cheshire. If I'm not mistaken the Cheshire is only good for a few months. Who knows how long it sat before I got it. I didn't notice much from it. Except a small boost in smell.
I've picked up some mammoth P. And a product I now swear by since using it. Recharge. It's a dry form of beneficial bacteria kelp and molasses. I'm not kidding this stuff works. My pineapple plant has put on some serious leaf weight. And my indoor hanging baskets expoded. Like CRAZYYY

Dirt Man Dan
 
DirtManDan said:
I hate to discourage you, but I've since switched my main nutrient to Canna Terra.
I was getting annoyed with the fact that the maxibloom didn't fully dissolve. Even in hot water. That and I got a book for Christmas. It's has since changed my outlook on growing.
It's called the hidden half of nature. And explains all about how the microbes in the soil are way more important than the salt based nutrients we normally give plants. So feed the soil. Not the plant.
The more microbes in your rhizoshphere the more available nutrients your plant will get.
So with that I've dropped the maxibloom. And possibly dropping the Cheshire. If I'm not mistaken the Cheshire is only good for a few months. Who knows how long it sat before I got it. I didn't notice much from it. Except a small boost in smell.
I've picked up some mammoth P. And a product I now swear by since using it. Recharge. It's a dry form of beneficial bacteria kelp and molasses. I'm not kidding this stuff works. My pineapple plant has put on some serious leaf weight. And my indoor hanging baskets expoded. Like CRAZYYY

Dirt Man Dan
Click to expand...

Not disappointing me bro. I'm 99% organic. I use mycorrhizae rich soil and water. Restock the PK as my plant needs it with organic nutrients. Add organic Humic Acid with carbohydrates with every watering.
I'm proud of you. Not disappointed.


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Mammoth P is probably one of the best mycobacterial nutrients on the market. Made by two botany PhDs.
Insert Jesse Pinkman quote.


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If your on a budget the maxibloom works. And works well. But I'm quality obsessed. I didn't get what I was looking for.
Honestly I haven't since I started growing. My first few. 4 to be exact were just bag seeds in a pc case with CFL. Just to get a couple under my belt. This most recent was my fist run with LED'S and REAL genetics.
So I'm trying to take my techniques to the next level. Hense why I went with a more complete light spectrum. And am now switching up my nutrients.

Keep going with your maxibloom you'll get a decent yield. You may even like it more than other stuff. It's just not for me any more. But always look to improve your game.

Dirt Man Dan
 
JimmyJames905 said:
Not disappointing me bro. I'm 99% organic. I use mycorrhizae rich soil and water. Restock the PK as my plant needs it with organic nutrients. Add organic Humic Acid with carbohydrates with every watering.
I'm proud of you. Not disappointed.


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Once I have a house and a backyard at my disposal. I'll be right there with you. This was more toward Joel who's running my method.

Dirt Man Dan
 
Liquid KoolBloom is a better PK ramp up solution(I don't use it personally)
It's liquid and the salts don't recrystallize as quickly as they do with maxibloom. The problem with dry PK boosters is that if you don't flush regularly with a desalination agent the salts can easily recrystallize and clog the roots, getting the exact opposite results. The only salt based dry booster I use is KoolBloom Dry Ripener and only for 2 weeks at the very end followed by 2 weeks of straight water flushes.
It's really the only non organic I use.


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I switched for the exact same reason. I was annoyed that it wouldn't dissolve, but y'know what I found out? If you give it about 5 or 10 minutes it completely dissolves on its own. So once I'm done with the flora series liquids I'm going back to the maxiBloom. It's cheaper, easier and it doesn't have any calcium carbonate which I believe has been causing me build-up in coco.
 
I'm hoping to be completely organic by the end of the summer. My front yard is basically a worm farm already so I would like to get a proper farm going that can work all winter too.
 
Make a large wooden box, line the inside with plastic and create a cover with small holes , make sure its about 2-3 feet off the ground and keep it in your basement or in a shed/garage. They love cut up newspaper and put a piece of cardboard on top of your media it will give the worms somewhere good to lay their eggs, you will need about 100-200 starting off , but eventually you will need to remove some over time...great source for bait if you are also a fisherman! I usually take a few gallons of the media out after a while and let it dry out a bit in buckets outdoors, the worms will leave and then you can mix it with whatever compost media you have made and its and excellent starter from my experience.
 
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This is what my whole set up looks like now will be doing it a little different next time

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