- Thread starter
- #41
CascadianDank
New Member
Thanks Growing Dank. No Carrots the 2Gal pots are Dill.
CascadianDank's 2014 Outdoor Super Soil Grow
- Thread starter CascadianDank
- Start date
Thanks Growing Dank. No Carrots the 2Gal pots are Dill.
- Thread starter
- #42
CascadianDank
New Member
OK heres a pic update before my freshly added beasties do work on the soil.
Bubba
KABOOM
PK
GSC Clone
GSC Seed
TOG
SourD and SS
Group Shot
SS
2 more SourDs
TOG
Bubba
KABOOM
PK
GSC Clone
GSC Seed
TOG
SourD and SS
Group Shot
SS
2 more SourDs
TOG
As I read microbe tea, and see your praying leaves pointing to the sky... I am promptly going to go get a mix started.
Looking mighty healthy
Looking mighty healthy
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- #44
CascadianDank
New Member
we had 20 to 30 mph winds the other day and 3 of the 4 plants in 7 gal pots got blown over but thats all good cuz they are pre trained now and are beginning to bush out.
2 SourDs
SS
TOG
These are the 2 I got mixed up and dont know which is SS and SourD
TOG
GSC Seed
GSC Clone
I thought this one was PK but it dont look very Indica like so I musta mixed some seeds up along the way
KABOOM
BUBBA
Group Shot
I did some topping and trimming on the bigger plants a couple days ago but didnt think to get before pics. I also plucked the top of the Bubba off so it will start bushing out soon. The smaller plants I plucked a couple bottom branches off where they blew over and were in the dirt but have not topped yet.
2 SourDs
SS
TOG
These are the 2 I got mixed up and dont know which is SS and SourD
TOG
GSC Seed
GSC Clone
I thought this one was PK but it dont look very Indica like so I musta mixed some seeds up along the way
KABOOM
BUBBA
Group Shot
I did some topping and trimming on the bigger plants a couple days ago but didnt think to get before pics. I also plucked the top of the Bubba off so it will start bushing out soon. The smaller plants I plucked a couple bottom branches off where they blew over and were in the dirt but have not topped yet.
WildRosebud
New Member
Wow do they look good. Just wondering what's the point of Humic Acid in your tea?
- Thread starter
- #47
CascadianDank
New Member
Thanks CO. I added the Humic Acid because I saw a couple recipes that suggested adding it and I had some laying around.
I then read the following on another site while looking up the benefits of using it:
As a Foliar application:
Humic Acid acts as a natural soil and plant growth stimulant. It is easily assimilated by plants and some of its main functions include improving: Plant immunity, Plant metabolism, Plant root development, the Supply of plant nutritional elements and increasing the formation of ferments by binding itself to the molecules.
It promotes the increased accumulation of chlorophyll, sugar, amino acids and more and improves the efficiency of nitrogen utilization, allowing for reduced fertilizer rates.
One of the primary actions of Humic Acid is to increase the plant’s ability to withstand the stresses of heat, drought, cold, disease, insect and other types of environmental or cultural pressures.
Humic also increases general plant productivity, in terms of yield, as well as plant stem strength.
As a soil Amendment:
Humic Acid increases nutrient uptake, drought tolerance and seed germination.
It increases the microbial activity in the soil making it an excellent root stimulator. Humic Acid increases the availability of nutrients that are already in your soil and will naturally aerate the soil from the inside. It also will help to lower the pH of the soil and will flush high levels of salts out of the root zone
Humic acid feed the microbes in the soil.
Im learning as I go here so I cant give any better answer than I liked what I read about it and I had it available so I tossed some in.
Right on I was just curious, had not seen that as an ingredient in any tea recipes I have seen thus far. I'm learning as well, so I was just curious. I have only seen humic acid added as a natural chealating amendment in soil mixes so far.
- Thread starter
- #49
CascadianDank
New Member
I dont really follow any recipes as far as amounts go but I add the things I have available that the recipes call for. I kinda go by the bottle or box recommendations for the amounts sometimes adding more or less. Heres a couple recipes I found before and the links to the pages they are on.
5 gal brewer
1 lb. compost
1/2 cup of humic acid
1 to 3 T. of kelp
1 tsp. of non-sulfured, blackstrap molasses
Gardening With Microbes: It's Tea Time! Part 2 << LINK
3 Basic Compost Tea Recipes
Please note, the amounts indicated in the following recipes are intended for a 5-gallon brewer.
Balanced Compost Tea Recipe
1.5 pounds of balanced compost
(equal parts bacterial to fungal biomass)
1.6 ounces of humic acids
1 ounce of liquid kelp*
1 ounce of soluble unsulphured black-strap molasses
*We've specified liquid kelp here, however, sometimes we like to add a tablespoon of kelp meal as well to provide surfaces for the fungi to attach too.
The black-strap molasses is great, because it naturally contains a number of beneficial minerals (e.g. potassium) that feed your microbes and soil.
Bacterial-Dominated Compost Tea Recipe
1.5 pounds of bacterial-dominated compost (vermicastings work well)
2 ounces of cane sugar
1 ounce of soluble kelp
Bacteria love simple sugars, so feel free to add in a teaspoon of maple syrup, or even white sugar.
Fungal-Dominated Compost Tea Recipe
2 pounds of fungal-dominated compost (see tips at bottom of page)
2 ounces humic acids
2 teaspoons of yucca extract*
1 ounce of liquid kelp
2 tablespoons of ground oatmeal
*We like to add yucca extract near the end of the brewing process, since it has a tendency to create a lot of foam. Also, you'll want to make sure your yucca doesn't have any preservatives, but does have a high saponin content.
Ultimate Compost Tea Recipe For Boosting Plant Growth <<LINK
Thanks for sharing those!
I have had good success with a tea using castings from my worm farm, kelp meal, high N guano, all purpose organic fert granules, cold processed squid, FF big bloom, & molasses
I do a lot of EWC, and a little of everything else.
The plants sure respond nicely to the teas, don't they? I love growing all natural!! Wouldn't try it any other way!
Oh and Reps for the links
I have had good success with a tea using castings from my worm farm, kelp meal, high N guano, all purpose organic fert granules, cold processed squid, FF big bloom, & molasses
I do a lot of EWC, and a little of everything else.
The plants sure respond nicely to the teas, don't they? I love growing all natural!! Wouldn't try it any other way!
Oh and Reps for the links
- Thread starter
- #51
CascadianDank
New Member
Ive done a few teas in the past couple years but Ill be using them more often from now on. I never got to use my own castings yet other than one time that I just dumped them onto the herb box that you can see in a couple pics. My worm bin froze and turned to shit over the winter so I dumped it all out and havent started a new one yet. I do keep a bag of castings on hand though.
My neighbor says hes been growin outdoor for 20 years and swears by Miracle Grow. The other day he came by and couldnt believe how big my plants have gotten since he saw them last. Theyre about twice the size of his plants at this point and all Ive done is add the tea 2 times and other than that I just use water from my hose that I fill a 32 and a 50 gal garbage can with. I was just letting it sit for a day or 2 between waterings but last weekend I got a 100 Gallon aquarium pump and 2 round air stones to keep the water oxygenated.
I grew in Hempy Buckets with GH 3 part nutes for the first 3 of my 5 years growing. Ill never go back to bottled nutes after tasting what I grew using this Super Soil recipe. Organic is definitely the way to go.
My neighbor says hes been growin outdoor for 20 years and swears by Miracle Grow. The other day he came by and couldnt believe how big my plants have gotten since he saw them last. Theyre about twice the size of his plants at this point and all Ive done is add the tea 2 times and other than that I just use water from my hose that I fill a 32 and a 50 gal garbage can with. I was just letting it sit for a day or 2 between waterings but last weekend I got a 100 Gallon aquarium pump and 2 round air stones to keep the water oxygenated.
I grew in Hempy Buckets with GH 3 part nutes for the first 3 of my 5 years growing. Ill never go back to bottled nutes after tasting what I grew using this Super Soil recipe. Organic is definitely the way to go.
Right on man!
Come check out my journal, I'm dialing my own thing in pretty nice these days
I'm smoking the fruits of my labor right now, lol
Come check out my journal, I'm dialing my own thing in pretty nice these days
I'm smoking the fruits of my labor right now, lol
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
Happy to see you happy with your grow 
- Thread starter
- #54
CascadianDank
New Member
Yesterday I spent alot of time reading forum posts on another site by a guy named Microbeman who is also the owner of a page I have read and possibly quoted here somewhere or another by the name of Microbe Organics. I wont go and do a bunch of Copy/Pasting of his posts because there are many but I am going to share one long one here now which is relevant to my journal at this point.
Recipes and Technique;
In case I have not been clear enough above, our goal in making ACT is to extract, multiply and grow mostly aerobic microorganisms in as large a diversity as possible and inclusive of three basic groups; bacteria/archaea, protozoa [flagellates & naked amoebae] and fungi. (Some [vermi]compost will contain rotifers which are extracted into ACT. These cycle nutrients in similar fashion to protozoa and are a bonus if present.)
Making ACT is not about putting in ingredients which directly benefit the plants. The foodstocks used are strictly to feed or benefit the microorganisms which in turn benefit the plants.
When I jumped on the compost tea bandwagon years back I utilized the whole gambit of ingredients recommended by the current (at that time) supposed authorities. These ingredients or foodstocks included, humic acid, kelp meal, black strap molasses, baby oatmeal (oat flour), fish hydrolysate, alfalfa meal, etc. We used variations of these ingredients in our 1200 gallon ACT maker on our farm and microscopic observation showed success.
I also experimented with using some rock/clay powders as ingredients and observed differences in the microbial make up which had positive results applied to the soil and plants. The types used were mostly soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite.
Along the line somewhere we left humic acid out of a brew and noticed an increase in microbial numbers so we stopped using it ourselves but, possibly irresponsibly, I continued to recommend it because the ‘bigwigs’ did so. It was not until I devised a method to test each foodstock independently that I began to change my tune and begin to go against the grain of the contemporary experts.
By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;
1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.
2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!
3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.
4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)
5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has done more testing on this than I have.
The result of all this is that my attitude towards recipes for ACT has really evolved over the years with a trend towards the more simple. I know that there are a lot of people who place importance on creating a bacterial or fungal dominant ACT. At one time I myself was so influenced, however, the more I’ve learned and unlearned about living soil and a functioning microbial population interacting with plants, the more I’ve been led to allow the soil and plants to decide which microbes are actively needed by the rhyzosphere team.
What this means is that 9 times out of 10 I’m trying to create a balanced ACT with a decent ratio of the three basic microbial groups. When this hits the soil, some will go dormant to wake up later and some will be immediately put into action at the direction of the needs of the soil and plants.
The exceptions to this may be if I am attempting to battle a particular pathogen and want to attack it with a heavy fungal or bacterial (or a combo) ACT. In these situations some tweaking of recipes and timing can be helpful. If attempting these variations, a microscope is really the only way to confirm the desired microbial population. I have outlined some recipes which may trend towards a certain microbial group (or combo) or may assist with certain pathogens.
Recipes;
Through a plethora of trial and error brewing with a dissolved oxygen meter at hand we determined that a pretty reliable volume of [vermi]compost to use is 2.38% by volume of water used up to around a 250 gallon brewer.
So if you have 5 gallons you multiply that by 2.38% to get the amount of [vermi]compost to use. Then you can go to; Online Conversion - Volume Conversion and convert it into any unit of measure which is convenient. In my opinion measuring [vermi]compost by weight is inaccurate because of varying moisture content.
Anyway to proceed we have;
5 x 2.38% = 0.119 of a gallon = 0.476 of a quart = 0.450 of a liter
= 450.5 milliliters [450 rounded] = 1.904 cups [2 cups rounded] - Your choice
Likewise with the use of black strap molasses, a percentage of 0.50% is a good median amount to use.
These two ingredients, perhaps surprisingly, comprise the total of inputs in most of our brews these days. This simple recipe, if using an efficient ACT maker and good quality [vermi]compost results in a microbial population made up of the important three groups. This is the only recipe used to date, in all the videos on my Youtube channel ‘Microbe Organics’
To get these three groups the ACT maker should be run for 36 to 42 hours. The ideal temperature range is 65 to 72 Fahrenheit (18 to 22 Celsius), however a little cooler or warmer is okay. I’ve had pretty equivalent results with ambient temperatures around 100 F (38 C) and as cool as 50 F (10 C).
To spill a small secret, [which I hope will not preclude you purchasing the related downloadable video on my webpage in the upcoming future, once I figure how to do it
] I’ve been pre-feeding or pre-activating [vermi]compost which is not so fresh by mixing in a small amount of wheat bran (livestock store or bulk foods department grocery store) and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of brew. (approximate ratios, wheat bran 1:30 [vermi]compost & BSM 1:300 water).
This has, so far resulted in attaining the desired microbial population at 24 hours brew time rather than the usual 36 to 42 hours.
Now for some of my other recipes;
A recipe for a balanced nutrient cycling ACT which many growers claim to have great success with is;
[vermi]compost – 2.38%
unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.50% [but you can use a maximum 0.75%]
fish hydrolysate (high quality) - 0.063%
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
kelp meal - 0.25% max. [Less is more!]
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. As noted earlier kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication and fungal growth in ACT.
soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% Consider this optional. In the past 2 years I’ve become more aware of the possibility of polonium 210 and lead content in soft rock phosphate which is radioactive. This varies depending on how it was mined and where. If you wish to use this in ACT check all available data. Look for heavy metal testing
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
The brew time should average around 36 hours and no longer than 48 hours. If you have a microscope then stop when the microbes desired are observed. Otherwise smell for the foodstocks being used up, possible rank odor (indicating anaerobes) and a positive earthy or mushroom-like aroma.
Fungal Brew;
If you want a brew which is more fungal increase the amount of fish hydrolysate to around 0.19% and you may wish to decrease the amount of molasses used so there is not a foodstock overload. Include a pinch [or handful, depending on brewer size] of alfalfa meal, not using more than 0.25%. It is important to not overload a brew with foodstocks, otherwise you can easily compromise the dissolved oxygen capacity of the unit.
>Most importantly discontinue brewing around 18 to 20 hours. Of course if you have a microscope you can judge that for yourself.
*Also, if you do not have fungi in your [vermi]compost, you won’t have it magically appear in your ACT.
A Few Extras;
I sometimes include a pinch or handful [depending on brewer size] of sphagnum peatmoss in a brew. Depending on where the peatmoss was harvested, it will contribute a set of microbes somewhat similar to that derived from the ‘Alaska’ humus or humisoil products on the market. It is a least a better bang for your buck and at best could be a trifle better quality-wise.
I’ve had inconsistent success battling powdery mildew by including soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite clay powder, both at 0.063% in a 24 hour brew with horse manure fed vermicompost, BSM and fish hydrolysate. I have observed a peanut shaped bacteria/archaea in vast numbers with this recipe. In the ACT they are very active and appear to feed on yeast. This has led me to hypothesize that they ‘might’ be devouring powdery mildew but at this point that is pure conjecture.
So that’s it for today.
EDIT** I stated the website as Gardening with Microbes but it is actually Microbe Organics. Both are mentioned in the forum I was reading and both have great info.
Recipes and Technique;
In case I have not been clear enough above, our goal in making ACT is to extract, multiply and grow mostly aerobic microorganisms in as large a diversity as possible and inclusive of three basic groups; bacteria/archaea, protozoa [flagellates & naked amoebae] and fungi. (Some [vermi]compost will contain rotifers which are extracted into ACT. These cycle nutrients in similar fashion to protozoa and are a bonus if present.)
Making ACT is not about putting in ingredients which directly benefit the plants. The foodstocks used are strictly to feed or benefit the microorganisms which in turn benefit the plants.
When I jumped on the compost tea bandwagon years back I utilized the whole gambit of ingredients recommended by the current (at that time) supposed authorities. These ingredients or foodstocks included, humic acid, kelp meal, black strap molasses, baby oatmeal (oat flour), fish hydrolysate, alfalfa meal, etc. We used variations of these ingredients in our 1200 gallon ACT maker on our farm and microscopic observation showed success.
I also experimented with using some rock/clay powders as ingredients and observed differences in the microbial make up which had positive results applied to the soil and plants. The types used were mostly soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite.
Along the line somewhere we left humic acid out of a brew and noticed an increase in microbial numbers so we stopped using it ourselves but, possibly irresponsibly, I continued to recommend it because the ‘bigwigs’ did so. It was not until I devised a method to test each foodstock independently that I began to change my tune and begin to go against the grain of the contemporary experts.
By testing some ingredients independently in a liquid I observed;
1/ that humic acid in varying dilutions does not feed any sort of microscopically visible microbe. I observed that it actually suppresses microbial division and growth. This was confirmed by joint testing with Keep It Simple Inc. (KIS) in the Seattle area. We tested two of the most effective and popular brands. I cannot say definitively that all brands of humic acid will have similar suppressive effects in a liquid (ACT) but it is enough for me to discontinue using it or recommending it as an ACT foodstock. Please note that this does not mean that it is not good to use on/in soil….just not ACT.
2/ that kelp meal initially delays all microbial development in a liquid but does feed fungi and bacteria/archaea following 24 hours. If too much is used the effects are suppressive. From this I garnered that it should be used very sparingly and one must be prepared to brew a little longer if using this foodstock. Again, this does not mean that kelp meal is not a good thing to use in/on soil. It definitely is!
3/ black strap molasses (BSM) feeds both bacteria/archaea and fungi equally well contrary to what the A(A)CT aficionados were saying. The story was that BSM feeds only bacteria. This led to all sorts of misconceptions, even including ones made by USDA and Canada Agriculture scientists who declared that using molasses in ACT could lead to e-coli contamination. It is utter nonsense. Besides the testing I have done and ratifying assays carried out by KIS, it is common knowledge amongst many mycologists like Paul Stamets that BSM grows out fungal hyphae just fine.
4/ fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea again contrary to the story at the time that it is mainly a fungal food. (I’m glad to see that story has now changed)
5/ alfalfa meal is also a decent all round foodstock which sometimes introduces protozoa cysts to the ACT. KIS has done more testing on this than I have.
The result of all this is that my attitude towards recipes for ACT has really evolved over the years with a trend towards the more simple. I know that there are a lot of people who place importance on creating a bacterial or fungal dominant ACT. At one time I myself was so influenced, however, the more I’ve learned and unlearned about living soil and a functioning microbial population interacting with plants, the more I’ve been led to allow the soil and plants to decide which microbes are actively needed by the rhyzosphere team.
What this means is that 9 times out of 10 I’m trying to create a balanced ACT with a decent ratio of the three basic microbial groups. When this hits the soil, some will go dormant to wake up later and some will be immediately put into action at the direction of the needs of the soil and plants.
The exceptions to this may be if I am attempting to battle a particular pathogen and want to attack it with a heavy fungal or bacterial (or a combo) ACT. In these situations some tweaking of recipes and timing can be helpful. If attempting these variations, a microscope is really the only way to confirm the desired microbial population. I have outlined some recipes which may trend towards a certain microbial group (or combo) or may assist with certain pathogens.
Recipes;
Through a plethora of trial and error brewing with a dissolved oxygen meter at hand we determined that a pretty reliable volume of [vermi]compost to use is 2.38% by volume of water used up to around a 250 gallon brewer.
So if you have 5 gallons you multiply that by 2.38% to get the amount of [vermi]compost to use. Then you can go to; Online Conversion - Volume Conversion and convert it into any unit of measure which is convenient. In my opinion measuring [vermi]compost by weight is inaccurate because of varying moisture content.
Anyway to proceed we have;
5 x 2.38% = 0.119 of a gallon = 0.476 of a quart = 0.450 of a liter
= 450.5 milliliters [450 rounded] = 1.904 cups [2 cups rounded] - Your choice
Likewise with the use of black strap molasses, a percentage of 0.50% is a good median amount to use.
These two ingredients, perhaps surprisingly, comprise the total of inputs in most of our brews these days. This simple recipe, if using an efficient ACT maker and good quality [vermi]compost results in a microbial population made up of the important three groups. This is the only recipe used to date, in all the videos on my Youtube channel ‘Microbe Organics’
To get these three groups the ACT maker should be run for 36 to 42 hours. The ideal temperature range is 65 to 72 Fahrenheit (18 to 22 Celsius), however a little cooler or warmer is okay. I’ve had pretty equivalent results with ambient temperatures around 100 F (38 C) and as cool as 50 F (10 C).
To spill a small secret, [which I hope will not preclude you purchasing the related downloadable video on my webpage in the upcoming future, once I figure how to do it
] I’ve been pre-feeding or pre-activating [vermi]compost which is not so fresh by mixing in a small amount of wheat bran (livestock store or bulk foods department grocery store) and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of brew. (approximate ratios, wheat bran 1:30 [vermi]compost & BSM 1:300 water).This has, so far resulted in attaining the desired microbial population at 24 hours brew time rather than the usual 36 to 42 hours.
Now for some of my other recipes;
A recipe for a balanced nutrient cycling ACT which many growers claim to have great success with is;
[vermi]compost – 2.38%
unsulphured pure black strap molasses - 0.50% [but you can use a maximum 0.75%]
fish hydrolysate (high quality) - 0.063%
Do not use chemically deodorized liquid fish!
kelp meal - 0.25% max. [Less is more!]
NOTE: This is a maximum amount of kelp and you can experiment using less. This is using regular grade kelp meal for livestock. If you have soluble kelp, I recommend using smaller amounts. As noted earlier kelp meal can initially delay bacterial multiplication and fungal growth in ACT.
soft rock phosphate granules/powder - 0.063% Consider this optional. In the past 2 years I’ve become more aware of the possibility of polonium 210 and lead content in soft rock phosphate which is radioactive. This varies depending on how it was mined and where. If you wish to use this in ACT check all available data. Look for heavy metal testing
We grind up the granules into a powder with a coffee grinder
The brew time should average around 36 hours and no longer than 48 hours. If you have a microscope then stop when the microbes desired are observed. Otherwise smell for the foodstocks being used up, possible rank odor (indicating anaerobes) and a positive earthy or mushroom-like aroma.
Fungal Brew;
If you want a brew which is more fungal increase the amount of fish hydrolysate to around 0.19% and you may wish to decrease the amount of molasses used so there is not a foodstock overload. Include a pinch [or handful, depending on brewer size] of alfalfa meal, not using more than 0.25%. It is important to not overload a brew with foodstocks, otherwise you can easily compromise the dissolved oxygen capacity of the unit.
>Most importantly discontinue brewing around 18 to 20 hours. Of course if you have a microscope you can judge that for yourself.
*Also, if you do not have fungi in your [vermi]compost, you won’t have it magically appear in your ACT.
A Few Extras;
I sometimes include a pinch or handful [depending on brewer size] of sphagnum peatmoss in a brew. Depending on where the peatmoss was harvested, it will contribute a set of microbes somewhat similar to that derived from the ‘Alaska’ humus or humisoil products on the market. It is a least a better bang for your buck and at best could be a trifle better quality-wise.
I’ve had inconsistent success battling powdery mildew by including soft rock phosphate and pyrophyllite clay powder, both at 0.063% in a 24 hour brew with horse manure fed vermicompost, BSM and fish hydrolysate. I have observed a peanut shaped bacteria/archaea in vast numbers with this recipe. In the ACT they are very active and appear to feed on yeast. This has led me to hypothesize that they ‘might’ be devouring powdery mildew but at this point that is pure conjecture.
So that’s it for today.
EDIT** I stated the website as Gardening with Microbes but it is actually Microbe Organics. Both are mentioned in the forum I was reading and both have great info.
- Thread starter
- #55
CascadianDank
New Member
I made a tea yesterday afternoon with 4 cups each of 2 different bagged composts and EWC and 2 cups of Alfalfa for a 50 gallon batch. More than needed but I did it because I used part of the tea this morning as a foliar and somewhat watered each plant with it then topped it off to brew another day before really watering with it. Im out of Molasses too at the moment so I used light corn syrup for my sugar which I added more of after topping up the water. The rain started right after my foliar feeding so I didnt get pics today but I do have one from yesterday of the group.
Conradino23
Well-Known Member
I constantly experiment with teas/natural boosters and three recipes developed this year is all round veg one, early flowering, and middle to late flowering one. First one brews bamboo comppst, horsetail, stinging nettle, and molasses. Second one utilizes stinging nettle, volcanic rock powder, egg shell powder, microbial and funghal inoculant, blended cucumber peel extract. Third one is just molasses with inoculant to which you can add compost extract if you really need it! The thing about humic acid by the ways is that if you have good compost in your mix you already have plenty of humic acid, so adding more is counterproductive as it's neither a nutrient nor conditioner. It's a chelating agent raising fertility understood as a physical and chemical quality of the soil. Saying that it's much better to start with living soil and then just keep the balance in order with a light touch from time to time 
- Thread starter
- #57
CascadianDank
New Member
I constantly experiment with teas/natural boosters and three recipes developed this year is all round veg one, early flowering, and middle to late flowering one. First one brews bamboo comppst, horsetail, stinging nettle, and molasses. Second one utilizes stinging nettle, volcanic rock powder, egg shell powder, microbial and funghal inoculant, blended cucumber peel extract. Third one is just molasses with inoculant to which you can add compost extract if you really need it! The thing about humic acid by the ways is that if you have good compost in your mix you already have plenty of humic acid, so adding more is counterproductive as it's neither a nutrient nor conditioner. It's a chelating agent raising fertility understood as a physical and chemical quality of the soil. Saying that it's much better to start with living soil and then just keep the balance in order with a light touch from time to time
Thanks for the share Conradino. As for the Humic Acid I wont be using it in my teas anymore after reading what I posted above. I only did it because I had it and saw it in the recipes I posted before the post from yesterday. At this point Im just following others until I find what works best for me because Ive only been at this Organic shit for 2 years.
I smoked alot of mexican brick weed in Jr high and Highschool and hated Biology. At that time I never expected to be growin my own 15 to 20 years later. I really wish I woulda paid more attention and tried to learn this shit back then.
BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
i found you brother!!! i'll get caught up 2morry! 
- Thread starter
- #59
CascadianDank
New Member
Hey BID, long time no see. Glad you found me, are you gonna have somethin new for me to read any time soon?
BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
got a cool new journal coming soon, some cool new sponsors and products to test im just waiting on a couple set pieces to show up, should be a hoot!! the last 2 journal were meh just ok imo im trying autopots and experimenting with hydro but not sterile