Canno's First Attempt At L.O.S Paired With A Thirst For Knowledge

Some bacteria starting to colonize
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Some bacteria starting to colonize
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Is that what causes the frothing? I once brewed some boogie brew overnight and woke up to it all over my laundry room floor lol.
 
Thx....what is something that is high in k that is water soluble

Langbenite aka Sul Po Mag....0-0-22. Deficiencies can be linked to pH or nutrient antagonism as much as an actual deficiency. Not always best idea to to out & add what is appearing as deficient. Try to figure out why 1st.

In flower what's the highest N you should give

Nothing I use is over 2 & I cut most out by 4 wks. But many use more than I do. :Namaste:
 
Langbenite aka Sul Po Mag....0-0-22. Deficiencies can be linked to pH or nutrient antagonism as much as an actual deficiency. Not always best idea to to out & add what is appearing as deficient. Try to figure out why 1st.



Nothing I use is over 2 & I cut most out by 4 wks. But many use more than I do. :Namaste:
Didn't know that brightlight .....just purchased this today for my LOS in the New Year. Great tip !
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That's going to be next on my list thx....

And ty bright light for the warning, I know my pH was messed up causing issues but they are not in super soil that I added amendments too at the beginning. They are in promix that I originally was using botanicare kind nutes but stopped giving nutes and just started doing ACT's
 
So I think what Im gonna do is just give my teas, which aren't very strong and are mainly for soil biology and water and just make sure the pH stays in check then hopefully their is still enough nutrients in the soil to finish her off.

They do seem to be improving I believe it's to late in their cycle to worry about it that much..... however it already affected my yields cannot be reversed I can only stop the progression
 
It can really vary alot in LOS. Microbes will raise ph and fungii will lower ph. Peat moss as it decomposes can plummet ph and as your soil matures the ph will lower but for meat the start of a repotting my ph is usually about 7 on runoff and in a couple weeks about 6.6 for the duration til repotting again. My water always goes in at exactly 6.5. The soil matures and drops a bit but if you made a balanced soil mix it should level out close to 6.5. But if your heavy on peat moss it can keep dropping especially if its been recycled.
I prefer coco myself I find it alot more stable.
I dont know what the ph of my teas are I never check it so there may very well be a .5 to 1.0 difference there. I use RO water thats ph8.4 and about 1/4 strength CalMg+ lowers it to 6.5. Other than teas the CalMG+ is the only thing I add as far as feeding goes in liquid form. I do top dress with a guano/bloodmeal/bonemeal etc.. etc... topdress once at flip and once again 4 weeks into flower but it doesnt move the ph much.
If your ph in your runoff is low and it concerns you I would try a pure microbe tea. Just EWC and mollasses to raise the microbe populatiin but not the fungals.
 
It can really vary alot in LOS. Microbes will raise ph and fungii will lower ph. Peat moss as it decomposes can plummet ph and as your soil matures the ph will lower but for meat the start of a repotting my ph is usually about 7 on runoff and in a couple weeks about 6.6 for the duration til repotting again. My water always goes in at exactly 6.5. The soil matures and drops a bit but if you made a balanced soil mix it should level out close to 6.5. But if your heavy on peat moss it can keep dropping especially if its been recycled.
I prefer coco myself I find it alot more stable.
I dont know what the ph of my teas are I never check it so there may very well be a .5 to 1.0 difference there. I use RO water thats ph8.4 and about 1/4 strength CalMg+ lowers it to 6.5. Other than teas the CalMG+ is the only thing I add as far as feeding goes in liquid form. I do top dress with a guano/bloodmeal/bonemeal etc.. etc... topdress once at flip and once again 4 weeks into flower but it doesnt move the ph much.
If your ph in your runoff is low and it concerns you I would try a pure microbe tea. Just EWC and mollasses to raise the microbe populatiin but not the fungals.
Wicked piece of advice Gee. Doing an LOS in the new year. Didnt know the correlation between microbes, fungi and their role in PH.
 
Microbes and fungii are actually pretty easy in basic terms. You build your soil to have all your ingredients in it for a balanced supply of nutrients to see the plants thru a lifetime. The nutes are locked in the soil. microbes and fungii eat nutes. Other microbes come along and eat those microbes and fungii and poop the mix out. The twice digested mix is now in a form that plants can intake.

The problem for plants is that they can only pull nutes thru the soil from about a tenth of an inch away so unless the bug poop is on a root they cant really get to it.

Fungii have a unique ability to be able to quickly transport nutrients thru their veins similar to how a plant takes nutes from its roots to its leaves. They can move it thru the fungal web quite quickly. Fungii need carbs to survive.

Plants bait the fungii. They intake nutes to the cells to convert at photosynthesis but once the nutes reach the leaves the process is only half over. Plants strip the nutes from the water but now they must replace what they take or a vacuum occurs within the plant so they take nutes and replace them with carbs in the form of sugars. The sugars travel back down to the roots tips and get deposited to complete the circulatory circle.

Fungii (mycorrizhael types) have developped a symbiotic relationship with plants over hundreds of millions of years of evolution. They actually enter into and become part of a plants root tip.

So the plant needs nutes and the fungii need sugars. The trade system is in place. The plant says "Hey I need some potassium" and the fungii says "No problem I have some over here in the side of the pot, coming right up" and trades the potassium for some sugar.

As evolution goes things get very efficient. Certain mycco fungii are better at getting certain nutes so a plant hand picks certain fungal strains. The fungal strains spread out throughout the entire soil mix. They build an environment (rhizosphere) that is very hospitable to microbes and literally farm colonies of microbes whereas each colony is good at getting a particular nute. As a plants needs change the fungii will adjust by say harvesting a larger colony of nitrogen microbes during veg. This process evolves as the plants life cycle moves from seedling to old age.

Now you can start to see Living Soils advantages. If a strain is genetically colorful and sweet tasting but you grow it in hydro you control its diet and it will come out fine but never reach its full genetic potential of colorful and sweet because you have force fed it to be what your nutes dictate it to be. By asking the fungii for what it wants to achieve genetic perfectedness LOS allows plants to become exactly what they are supposed to become on a genetic level.

However.... In order for this to happen you must have all needed nutrients in the soil and you must have a good compatible fungal network and you must have a good variety of microbes and you must have properly phed water running it all as on a cellular level cannabis cells operate at ph 6.2 to 6.6.
That is slightly acidic which you have likely heard that weed prefers slightly acidic soils.

I find 6.5 to be perfect with smart pots.

Now..... when you see a product such as Great White that is a container of fungasl spores that are the kind of fungii that work really well with cannabis.
When you see a product like Mammoth P that is a solution containing a heavy amount of microbes that specialize in freeing phosphorus from the soil.

Teas...
Compost teas allow microbes from EWC to brew so the microbe population explodes but additives such as kelp feed the fungii too so teas do 2 things. They feed and supply the microbes and they feed the fungii.

If all you do is build a balanced soil then cater to fungii and microbes with teas and properly phed water extremely beautiful plants become a very sweet byproduct of the soil web. Dont grow plants grow microbes and fungii.
When a plant gets harvested the fungii sense its death and immediately spore out as they know they will soon die too so when you recycle your soil you already have the right kind of fungal spores in it and if you leave the dead roots in it for the microbes to compost, the spores get released into your recycled soil so it becomes even more fertile and gets the fungii to become more specialized to its individual needs for its next generation. In the ground undisturbed it would create a perfect eco system waiting for next years seeds.

Warning: If you have achieved living soil balance and then in flowering you use a high phosphorus nute it all crashes. High phosphorus makes the fungii believe phosphorus isnt needed so it stops farming phosphorus microbes but the plant cant get the high phosphorus because there are now no phosphorus freeing microbes in the fungal network.
Minerals in your soil such as rock phosphate and soft rock phosphate contain many plant lifetimes of phosphorus all you need are microbes to mine it. Never use a high phos fert or phos gets locked out. Look at the numbers on Foxfarms Big Bloom. That is arguably the best LOS blooming food you can ever use and its numbers are really low. Its made with guanos, phosphates, etc and 100% soil web friendly
 
I have friends that grow hydro, friends that grow coco, and friends that soup grow in soil and they all grow fantastic weed so any style will work well just never mix styles. Only use nutes for your style or it goes south really quickly. I dont get the largest yields but they are still great however all my buddies agree my weed is a better smoke than theirs. You cant beat high grade LOS weed. The only hard part is trying to not overfeed them. Let the soil and microbes and fungii do that. No one fertilizes a forest yet its perfectly healthy.
 
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