Canno's First Attempt At L.O.S Paired With A Thirst For Knowledge

Cannoisseuras said:
When you mix soil to cook should it always get hot or is something wrong if it doesn't feel like it's heating up
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I don't think so. I remember once asking Stank if my soil needed to be out in the sun for it to be working/cooking and he explained that it's the introduction of all of these microbes and ingredients together along with the trigger of the water that helps to get things started. The heat is more of compost thing.

I'm starting on a VERY similar soil recipe for my initial run with Stanks ATF seeds. I'm going with a black swallow base material though that utilizes rice hulls as humic.

Wish I knew more to help out Canno but I'm caught up and subbed up......ready to learn along side you brother.
 
And the reason I ask is because the leafs all look healthy besides their shade of green but I'm not sure how long the pH was high
Cannoisseuras said:
I was using the drops for checking ph because my pen broke. I just bought a cheap Milwaukee ph600 and when I checked my runoff pH was coming out at 7.2 so I adjusted until my runoff is in the 6.2-6.5 range. I did notice on one of the girls the leafs looked a lighter shade of green then normal...(almost like N deficient)...

Will high ph cause yellowing?
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Well usually high ph will cause iron lockout.. happened to me my first two grows. The new growth will come in yellow. Must have lost your journal some how.. found it again! I agree the soil mix does not need to be hot just kept moist above 65 degrees.. i say above 65 degrees cause with kind soil you arent supposed to let it get lower then 65 or it inhibits microbe growth.
 
as your soil matures it will drop a bit in ph as it balances itself out. Your fungals want a lower ph and your microbes want a higher one. As your fungus grows in and your microbe population grows it will settle at about 6.7 on the runoff when watered at 6.5. In LOS thats a great range. You can always add some myco fungus to the soil to speed it up a bit. It will take a couple weeks to grow in.
 
Gee64 said:
as your soil matures it will drop a bit in ph as it balances itself out. Your fungals want a lower ph and your microbes want a higher one. As your fungus grows in and your microbe population grows it will settle at about 6.7 on the runoff when watered at 6.5. In LOS thats a great range. You can always add some myco fungus to the soil to speed it up a bit. It will take a couple weeks to grow in.
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Thx gee64 and your more then welcome to sit in. Its so much slower a pace then my first few journals.
 
I was just checking my range and it wasn't high enough yet for a serious problem but I believe your rite because from the chart iron looked like it would be mist affective
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just did some training on that one.....it's a Dutch dragon x acid

Then these are either white Jack's or dragons
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Yellowing kind of looks like what happens with my plants.. i think its more of a build up of nutes if you are using nutes. Ph is always good to have in check so you know thats not the issue. Flush em a couple times and they will be ok.. the yellowing will continue most likely. Maybe not a bad thing it is happening idk my buds are fine lol

The training looks great and the frost is real on that white jack!! Nice job in there man!
 
brightlight said:
Yellowing at bottom is N shortage. Yellowing at younger growth up top is Fe def. from pH too high. Yellow mottled green is Mg. Not sure may see that in pics. Rice hulls real good for aeration. Check r. hull pH....just had some that tested 8+. :Namaste:
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Ty for the heads up on that
 
imtoasted said:
Well usually high ph will cause iron lockout.. happened to me my first two grows. The new growth will come in yellow. Must have lost your journal some how.. found it again! I agree the soil mix does not need to be hot just kept moist above 65 degrees.. i say above 65 degrees cause with kind soil you arent supposed to let it get lower then 65 or it inhibits microbe growth.
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Great info there, thanks Toasted.....
 
Cannoisseuras said:
Thx gee64 and your more then welcome to sit in. Its so much slower a pace then my first few journals.
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Thank God for slow pace..... Lately it seems to be read journals or work on my grow room lol.
 
brightlight said:
Yellowing at bottom is N shortage. Yellowing at younger growth up top is Fe def. from pH too high. Yellow mottled green is Mg. Not sure may see that in pics. Rice hulls real good for aeration. Check r. hull pH....just had some that tested 8+. :Namaste:
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Eeekkk.. ...8+.....completely unexpected value there! Luckily Black Swallow will have tested and adjusted my base......i hope lol. This might sound stupid but how do you test soil PH.. ...not with a pen, so.....?

Canno where are you getting your hulls?

Also I'm using Insect frass, chitin and neem meal to aid in insect deterance.
 
I get my hulls from htg supply. Such an awesome store plus their workers seem knowledgeable.

For run off I either use my pen and check pH going in and coming out. I also have a soil test kit that you make a slurry and check (10 bucks at Lowe's)but one of the next items I'm gonna buy is a ec/tds soil stick
 
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