Build Your Own LED Grow Light

[FutRfarmer]

High PGR!
Thank you for this thread.

This site needs more threads like this to encourage DIY.

I own Cree cxb's run @ 1400ma. I also run Quantum qb288 boards @2100ma.
I like the combination of both because QB's seem weaker in the corners of my tent.

With my cobs being run at 50w per cob, corner coverage is more than satisfactory.

With that being said, I have to disagree with your use of the term "obsolete" when describing Cree CXB3590's.
Quite the contrary, they are a bargain for what they do.

Again, I am only speaking from my personal circumstances and results.
In this case I'm expecting about 45 or 50 ozs with about 1300w consumed from the wall.

I like this set up. I was thinking of doing 2 288QB and 2 model 3cl from timber for a 5x5 flower

 

[Stunned]

I like this set up. I was thinking of doing 2 288QB and 2 model 3cl from timber for a 5x5 flower

How were you planning on arranging the lights?
I'm planning a 5X5 as well with a 2 288QB which I already have.
I thought of getting 4 more 288's for the corners
but your idea sounds good too, albeit a bit more expensive?

 

[FutRfarmer]

How were you planning on arranging the lights?
I'm planning a 5X5 as well with a 2 288QB which I already have.
I thought of getting 4 more 288's for the corners
but your idea sounds good too, albeit a bit more expensive?

I was going to stagger them 1 288QB-1 3cl timber. have the 2 timbers come on for a half hour first thing in the morning then the QB kick on. same to end the day. I'm 100% noob but this seems like it will work. all 4 lights will cost $1,400. I have budgeted 2k for lighting. my father in law is a electrical engineer so I may talk to him about building a set up as he's a genius lol

 

[Old Salt]

Talk to your dad...

Here are my costs for a 525W 8 COB light:

Parts Received and Installed:
CLU048-1216C4 3000K 80CRI                      8    $ 13.00    $104.00
thermal tape                                   8    $  0.30    $  2.40
Ideal 50-2204CT + Ideal 50-2100AN + Reflector  8    $  4.60    $ 36.80
Pre-drilled heatsink (163mm)                   8    $ 15.00    $120.00
Wago 222-412                                   5    $  0.40    $  2.00
MW HLG-240H-C1750B                             2    $ 55.00    $110.00
Shipping cost                                  1    $115.00    $115.00
Charge by PayPal(3.8%)                         1    $ 18.62    $ 18.62
Subtotal Shenzhen KingBrite Electronics Co Ltd                 $508.82 USD / $682.22 CAD
Import Taxes/Duties                                                          $ 24.89 CAD
Aluminum 3/4" Angle & flat bar for frame                                     $ 18.57 CAD
Replacement for pan head screws                                              $  7.11 CAD
50KΩ linear taper potentiometer                                              $  3.99 CAD
Knobs for potentiometer                                                      $  4.69 CAD
Cable Tie Mounts                                                             $  5.06 CAD

Parts Ordered:
TC421 WiFi LED controller/timer                                              $ 40.05 CAD
Digital-LED-Power-Panel-Meter-Monitor-Power-Voltmeter-Ammeter                $ 10.31 CAD
Relay board (12V 4 channel)                                                  $  8.28 CAD
24VDC 5A Power Supply                                                        $ 10.33 CAD
LDD-H-4 Driver Board with 2 X LDD 1000 Drivers                 $ 28.00 USD
8 X CREE XP-E Far Red LED                                      $ 29.50 USD
Shipping for above two items                                   $ 10.00 USD
Total RapidLED order                                           $ 67.50 USD / $ 89.78 CAD

Grand Total (to date)                                          $678.96 USD / $905.28 CAD

The lifetime cost of CREE and Citizen COBs are very close as you can see from an earlier post. I went with the Citizens to save up front, but will pay the difference in my power bill over the COB's lifetime.

Timber's lights , and the QBBs would have been my choices for manufactured lights. Both can be modified to use a dimmer/timer such as the Storm or Storm X. These and DIY lights can be upgraded easily to take advantage of new technology, provided you stick with the same COB / board manufacturers.

 

[Mayne]

IF your kickin lights on from one wattage rate to another, make sure your doing it to save money, and really not for Sun/Rise/Set.. When the plant gets the 660nm waves, it instantly wakes up, and is ready to eat photons. As the same of putting them to sleep with the 730nm, its almost instant reaction.

Many think that the Rise/Set is because the plant likes a "cool Down" period before going dark or waking up, but really, the Set/Rise is actually a penetrational thing, not a sleep/wake thing. When the sun rises, the spectrum waves hit the plant sideways, as it does on the other side when it sets, which allows leafs that dont get light from the top, gets some thru Rise and Set Sun angles..

Best of both worlds senerio, _- create side lighting;

I was a " reduce wattage" x amount of time, but come to the conclusion, it really does nothing for plant growth.

There is also a rumor floating around, saying a plant getting 1000 PAR for 6 hours, pretty much cant use anymore photons at that point of 6 hours. If true, Then i can see wattage reduction, and keeping just enough light to keep it in the cycle till lights out. Jury still out on more information on this subject.

Open for discussion on this post, if any other info out there that Ive missed.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

I was going to stagger them 1 288QB-1 3cl timber. have the 2 timbers come on for a half hour first thing in the morning then the QB kick on. same to end the day. I'm 100% noob but this seems like it will work. all 4 lights will cost $1,400. I have budgeted 2k for lighting. my father in law is a electrical engineer so I may talk to him about building a set up as he's a genius lol

See below

Here's some very good info on building with strips:

DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener/QUOTE]


And...

Building a QB lamp for 4x4 yourself:

6x QB 288: 6 x 75 = $450 - HLG
6x heatsink: 6 x 14,49 = $86,94 - HLG
3x Meanwell HLG240H-C2100A drivers: 3 x 70 = $210 - Mouser
(boards will be dimmable in groups of 2 this way, you could get 2x drivers for 3 boards, can't remember which is fitting but can easily find out, would lower the cost a bit, so would getting heatsinks for more than one board)
Wires, power cord, connectors, nuts, bolts etc. = $20 - electricity/hardware store/online shop

Total = $767, lets say a little shipping fees and extras like hangers are added and you're looking at an even $800 for a powerhouse of light with adjustable output and 6 points of light that can each be hanging at different heights
All you need for assembly is a small phillips head screwdriver and a pair of scissors.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

IF your kickin lights on from one wattage rate to another, make sure your doing it to save money, and really not for Sun/Rise/Set.. When the plant gets the 660nm waves, it instantly wakes up, and is ready to eat photons. As the same of putting them to sleep with the 730nm, its almost instant reaction.

Many think that the Rise/Set is because the plant likes a "cool Down" period before going dark or waking up, but really, the Set/Rise is actually a penetrational thing, not a sleep/wake thing. When the sun rises, the spectrum waves hit the plant sideways, as it does on the other side when it sets, which allows leafs that dont get light from the top, gets some thru Rise and Set Sun angles..

Best of both worlds senerio, _- create side lighting;

I was a " reduce wattage" x amount of time, but come to the conclusion, it really does nothing for plant growth.

There is also a rumor floating around, saying a plant getting 1000 PAR for 6 hours, pretty much cant use anymore photons at that point of 6 hours. If true, Then i can see wattage reduction, and keeping just enough light to keep it in the cycle till lights out. Jury still out on more information on this subject.

Open for discussion on this post, if any other info out there that Ive missed.

I'm somewhat buying that turning the intensity slowly up at beginning of the light cycle and down at the end, could be a good way to save some power on light the plants might not be using anyway.

I've read the the photosystems take some time to get fully active, and that jumpstarting them might not be good/worthwhile for a short day plant like cannabis.
Also read the 6 hour thing, and it makes sense when you look at the light plants get outdoors, but I think that the high level of PPFD is necessary for it to work. So if you grow under less than 600w HPS per m2, you should probably just give it full blast for 12 hours...

Something I've observed myself is that vegging using the Gas Lantern Routine (12on - 5,5off - 1on - 5,5off) works as well, if not better, than 20/4. So the plants must be ''full'' from 13 hours of light and the the extra hours are just a waste of energy.

Also many people flower with 11/13, 10/14 and Diminishing Light Schedule (gradually going from 12/12 to 9/15)

So when we find out how to perfectly light our plants with automatic seamless dimming, and combine with GLR and maybe DLS we can probably cut our electricity bill in half compared to the classic 18/6 and 12/12 regime

 

[Mayne]

great post man,

I agree.

im 12/12 with night initiation puck, but then again, i only have 1 area to grow, and cant get a true <12+ veg with a flowering photoperiod plant. but i like the fast turnaround of 12/12 from seed. Heck, my FireOG is like 160 days old, ugg, takes up so much room.

Ive started something last night, by waking up 1 plant with a small LED light by hitting it with light for 1 minute, just as a test to see if it doesnt enter flower when the others at same age do. Hitting just 1 leaf. Gives off 20,000 lux within 1 inch. Going to make a small box, using a watch container, ( square that closes ) so i know light doesnt escape.

 

[Mayne]

here are some 24 days old from seed, 12/12 from seed, Light was 35 inches away at birth. 19 inches tall.
Using 200 watts, 3500K turned max to 160 watts, then turn up 4000K till 200watts total. ( I have each spectrum on its own dimmer ) I do crank it up midday, so my FireOG gets the blues from the 4000K for the frost factor.

A12-12--day24-Fri4.png

• Mayne
• Apr 6, 2018

 

[Mayne]

Oh, and I will have a new addition to this light system. Should be here in a few days, but wont say till Its installed.

 

[Mayne]

Both the tallest, MALE, ugg.. took 24 days to show from seed, pretty impressive tho, lol. Figures,

 

[Phenoman]

apologies if I've already posted in this thread.
I'm all over this damn site and stoned all the time so I can't remember but this is where I belong I'm a tech head and I love this stuff
I just got laid off in the fall so funds are too tight for me to start a project now, but it won't be long.
I'm going to read everything in this thread meanwhile
I appreciate all your guys input and hard work!

 

[FutRfarmer]

IF your kickin lights on from one wattage rate to another, make sure your doing it to save money, and really not for Sun/Rise/Set.. When the plant gets the 660nm waves, it instantly wakes up, and is ready to eat photons. As the same of putting them to sleep with the 730nm, its almost instant reaction.

Many think that the Rise/Set is because the plant likes a "cool Down" period before going dark or waking up, but really, the Set/Rise is actually a penetrational thing, not a sleep/wake thing. When the sun rises, the spectrum waves hit the plant sideways, as it does on the other side when it sets, which allows leafs that dont get light from the top, gets some thru Rise and Set Sun angles..

Best of both worlds senerio, _- create side lighting;

I was a " reduce wattage" x amount of time, but come to the conclusion, it really does nothing for plant growth.

There is also a rumor floating around, saying a plant getting 1000 PAR for 6 hours, pretty much cant use anymore photons at that point of 6 hours. If true, Then i can see wattage reduction, and keeping just enough light to keep it in the cycle till lights out. Jury still out on more information on this subject.

Open for discussion on this post, if any other info out there that Ive missed.

very interesting and great information. Thank you side lighting to wake up is a great idea. Picked up my 5x5 tent at my local hydro shop yesterday for $400!!!! not bad for a gorilla tent

 

[Old Salt]

IF your kickin lights on from one wattage rate to another, make sure your doing it to save money, and really not for Sun/Rise/Set...

Based on experience, most failures of electronic equipment occur when the power is applied. A ramp time of five or more seconds, five or more seconds after the driver is energized could extend the life of your lights.

 

[Mayne]

Hey PGR, do you know where I can look for Encasement housing boxes? I just want an empty LED light panel box, Thought you might know.

Like, Mars or Meizhi or anything. Just an empty box,lol..

 

[Old Salt]

Hey PGR, do you know where I can look for Encasement housing boxes? I just want an empty LED light panel box, Thought you might know.

Like, Mars or Meizhi or anything. Just an empty box,lol..

You may be able to find one by advertising on Kijiji.

It's not too difficult to make your own out of sheet metal. You have to have some method of bending the metal. I've used two pieces of C channel and a piece of flat bar stock. A better way is to get a metal brake. You can source them at Princess Auto in Canada, or Harbor Freight in the USA. There are punches available if you want to make holes for switches, and pots; or you can use a drill like I do. I recommend a nibbler to make holes for meters, and other electronics with displays.

 

[Mayne]

Hey Salt, thanks for the input. Yeah, Ive thought about that route before when making my encasement, thats why i went the wood route, lol..

need a polycarbon 3d printer, that would be awesome, lol

 

[Old Salt]

Hey Salt, thanks for the input. Yeah, Ive thought about that route before when making my encasement, thats why i went the wood route, lol..

need a polycarbon 3d printer, that would be awesome, lol

I'm a little leery of using wood as cases for heat producing electrical devices. I'd want an automatic high temp shut-off switch in there.

 

[Mayne]

It stays very cool, and I have it lined with aluminum tape. just the outside is wood, the rest is aluminum.

 

[PurpleGunRack]

Hey PGR, do you know where I can look for Encasement housing boxes? I just want an empty LED light panel box, Thought you might know.

Like, Mars or Meizhi or anything. Just an empty box,lol..

No, I don't know, it's a thing of the past for me.... Why put light sources close to each other in a little box, and miss out on the beauty of passive cooling?