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Buds taking forever to mature
- Thread starter validnasi
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Kodiak420
Well-Known Member
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i was reffering to this " is there a difference in weight when all of the hairs are dark and when 60% are, or is the size already done at this point? "
Kodiak420
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't be able to answer that, to many variables(strain, environment, gardening practices.
Also take a look around on this site it has been asked before.
And everyone else in the thread thathas given you good advice.
took the liberty to find you a couple threads
Also take a look around on this site it has been asked before.
And everyone else in the thread thathas given you good advice.
took the liberty to find you a couple threads
The essential facts of timing your harvest
You've managed to make it to the end. You've maintained your plants well, now it's getting closer to harvest time, and you're wondering just how and when to harvest and dry those beautiful buds. Hopefully I can give you some insight into how this can be successfully done; the do's and dont's of proper harvesting and curing. First, lets take a look at the harvest side of things.
Timing of your harvest is critical! Harvesting at maximum ripeness is the key. In my experience, there is usually a five to seven day window when the Cannabis plant will be at maximum ripeness. To understand this, you will need a jeweler’s loupe, or magnifying lens, light optional. I would recommend a power of 30x or better, but you can get by with less. A greater magnification makes it much easier to see the trichome heads at the top of the stalked resin glands.
Resin gland color, potency, and type of high
Gland color will vary with ripeness of the individual THC glands, starting at clear, turning to milky, then turning to an amber color. There may be some exceptions, such as some of the Blue strains and Blackberry. These will have darker, sometimes purple gland heads. But by far and large, these three steps of ripeness will exist with the vast majority of strains on the market. The first stage, clear, will tend to make for a more cerebral, up high, with very little body effect. Harvesting at this stage when little if any trichomes are milky yet, can be tricky. Harvesting too early can make for a beautiful plant that will not have much psychoactive capability! THC needs to "mature" to be able to pass its psychoactive capabilities down to the smoker. This is why I always recommend waiting until 50% of the trichomes hit the second stage: milky or creamy. At this point, you will definitely have a plant which has reached its genetic potential.
The milky trichomes have some "cerebral" qualities, as well as some of the more "physical" characteristics of the high. The last stage, amber, brings on a more sedative, physical stone. If this is what you're looking for, than I would recommend a sativa/indica cross, or an indica dominant plant. Amber trichomes seem to ruin a sativa high if the plant goes too long. The below photo is a good example of a ripe plant: at least 50% of the gland heads have turned "milky," some heads are still clear, and a few are amber. This plant was harvested two days later.
Many times you'll read from new growers, "My hairs are 50% changed to brown or red, looks like its ready to come down." Calyx hairs turning color is one thing, calyx hairs withering, is another. When they have withered, they are for the most part, as ripe as they will get. But just turning red/brown does not necessarily mean the plant is ready. Calyx hairs are just an indicator that the plant is ripening, not necessarily ripe yet. I have taken full Indica strains with 60% hairs turned, and sativas when 90% hairs have turned, and they were all at peak ripeness. The trichome color is the only true indicator!
A reminder.
Tips on harvesting, and when to harvest cannabis
This is just how I do things, and there are bound to be other opinions from other growers on these topics (there are many ways to skin a cat or grow/harvest a plant!). I realize this is quite wordy, but I thought I'd just run through the process of how we do it.
Slow and steady is great with drying, so I'm careful to not let this process happen too quickly. Bud dried too quickly will have a vastly inferior flavor and will be weaker than properly dried/cured bud. Properly dried and cured, MMJ potency and flavor will be maximized.
As far as harvesting, and when to harvest, I look at and consider a number of things... mostly:
Seed companies recommendation for when to harvest: Some are better and seem more accurate than others. I tend to just expect it will take "at least" that long. Here's a tip for Subcool strains -- he claims his flowering times are based on going right from 18/6 to 12/12. Plants vegged under 24/0 might take a little longer (not much though if any in my experience) and plants that were vegged using the 12-1 technique (Gas Lantern Routine) might be a little quicker, for example. I also look up grow journals from other people to see what their experience was and when they harvested. Due to variations in phenotype and other growing factors that affect finishing time I use the breeders recommendation and other peoples experiences only as a starting point.
Trichome maturation: A small microscope or magnifying glass (I prefer the microscope) can be used to check the trichome development. Trichomes look like little mushrooms under a microscope, and they look clear to begin with. Over time, they typically turn milky, then eventually the head of it will start to turn "amber" colored signifying they have peaked in development and are starting to decline. Many people like to harvest their plants when these trichomes are about 50% milky, and 50% amber. The more amber, the more "stoned" or "couchlock" the effect will be. Less amber, more milky or clear, and your effect will be a little "racier" or "high" (think giggly) and you won't have as much of a narcotic effect. Personally, I prefer to harvest (generally speaking) when they are about 10-25% amber, mostly milky (I don't like to feel such strong narcotic effect). You may have multiple plants with different windows of harvest time, so you'll have to keep an eye on them individually as far as best window if you do. Plants are at their peak maturity just before the trichomes start ambering. Once they start ambering, they are dying and will start a gradual decline in potency. Individual budsites might mature faster than others, so I harvest based on what is happening at the height of the majority of the canopy for each plant, if that makes sense. When I check the trichomes, I sample from 3-4 places on each plant to get a fuller picture of what's happening.
Pistil/Calyx maturation: The pistils will turn reddish brown (color depends on the plant, but usually reddish brown) and start to recede into the false seed-pod as they mature. Basically, the calyx (where the seed would be if there were seeds) swells larger and larger until it almost looks like there really is a seed in it, and the pistils will begin to shrivel up almost receding back into the calyx. This is another sign of peek maturity. If the calyx doesn't look very swollen and the pistils are still really hanging out there on their own, you probably need more time. I also look for the majority of the pistils to have changed colors before it's ready.
Once I decide they are ready to harvest, I make sure I have everything ready in advance. I wear rubber gloves to keep my hands less sticky. The ones I buy personally are usually "purple nitrile" exam gloves that can be found at a drug store, etc. Additionally, I make sure we have our trimming scissors. There are many different types of trimmers that work for this. I prefer a good pair of small scissors with sharp pointed tip, but it's all personal preference. Lastly, we use pant hangers to hang our branches with, so I make sure we have enough of these to harvest our plants.
This is from my Deadhead Ripper plant, and it's ready for harvest. You can tell by how swollen the calyx's are, and how the pistils are almost completely receded:
Harvest time: I start by cutting off individual branches and separating them into different "piles" on our trimming tables by strain/plant. We immediately trim the large fans off of them, and any non "bud" leaf. Usually my wife is already working on this while I remove branches from the plants. Once we have all the branches plucked and separated, we start trimming the bud leaves and buds while they are on the branch. Personally, I try to trim them very close and thoroughly - (they dry faster with a good trim, so be careful not to overdry them too fast).
Once a branch is thoroughly trimmed up (there should be nothing but the branch and trimmed budsites) we hang it upside down either in a small separate room we have, or in our grow tent if there is room (no other plants in there still growing!). I use the little clamps on the pants hangers to "pinch" the fat end of the branch. I don't like it to be pinched shut (sealing moisture in) so I'm careful to monitor that. One great tip related to this: We found little add-on clips that can be put on hangers so that instead of (2) clips on the pant hangers, there are several. I think we found these at the local grocery or drug store somewhere, but they are handy! Otherwise we make sure we have enough hangers or use rubberbands to tie branches to the hangers. Our ceiling is easy to hang hangers from, but you can makeshift a clothesline or something (which is what we do in our tent).
As we trim, any loose buds that fall off (or get cut off by accident) go into a little dish that we use to quick-dry/sample what we are trimming. It's fun to be feeling the high from what we are working on, so I usually am vaping/smoking these little accident nuggets along the way. We save goo balls from our scissors and make larger goo balls as the night goes on. These get added to a bowl and smoked for fun! I keep a supply of 72% alcohol "wet-wipes", which work great for cleaning off the excess stickyness of scissors, etc. (I don't drink much, but Jandre had a cool idea about cleaning the scissors with 151 rum and drinking the shot!)
Once all branches are trimmed and hung, we usuallly place a small fan in the room blowing under (NOT on) the plants. Just to keep circulation in the room. You don't want them to dry too fast. We usually let them hang 3-4 days, depending on humidity. We check them periodically for signs that they are ready with this phase. We err on the side of still moist vs. too dry. When the branches feel more prone to "snap" and the buds feel somewhat dry on the outside, we take the branches down and clip the buds off. They go into jars right away, and sealed up for about 24 hours depending on how dry they seemed when put in the jar.
After about 24 hours, I open the jars. I'm looking for the buds to seem a bit damp/moist again. Basically, when you hang them, the outside drys first. Jarring them brings the moisture to the outer parts of the bud, too, again. At this point, I typically give them periods of airing out by putting each jar into it's own small brown paper bag for a period of time, looking for the outside to start to feel a bit "dry" again (don't overdry!!). Then, they go back into jars again. I keep repeating this process until I feel like they are "close" without being too dry.
Once they are close, I put them in jars and burp daily until I feel they are where I want them (one to two weeks usually?). TIP: Finally, I put these in each wide-mouth Mason style jar:
These "humidipaks" will help keep your bud at roughly 62% humidity, which is fairly ideal for MMJ. If your jar starts to get too dry, it adds humidity. If it gets too humid, it removes it. This is an awesome product from what I can tell so far (just started using this with my last harvest, and this product is fairly new (at least at a cannabis friendly humidity level). The 62% humidipaks were created specifically for MMJ as I understand it. These are working great so far for me! One tip on the humidipaks: They won't be a substitute for a proper drying process, but once you are there, they seem to do a great job of keeping things just right!
Lastly, for long term storage we use a "FoodSaver" food sealer, with the mason jar attachment. You have to buy the Mason Jar attachment separately from the machine, but it allows you to vacuum pack Mason style jars. For all bud that we are storing, once cured, we vacuum pack it. Vacuum packing can extend the freshness period for your bud by months for medicine that you won't be using right away. This can be extremely beneficial, and for a total investment of less than $100, it's a bargain in that sense.
Did I miss anything or leave any other questions? Again, this is just how we do it - many other great ways to do this, too!
I have seen a lot of videos and posts about when to harvest, but wanted to bring this question up here, just to make sure I understand when is the best time.
Here is my recent picture of my plant, I planted it back in the middle of December, and flipped the switch to 12/12 around mid February.
Im using a 125W CFL. And feeding bloom nutrients.
The plant is around 64cm high from the ground
I read online that the best way to tell when the weed is ready is by looking at the trichomes.
And to harvest when the trichomes are amber. As I understand I will need a magnifying glass for this of at least 25x
Time to harvest? These are the trichomes on the top buds. Lower buds have less amber.
This is what the kola looks like.
How can you see that from those pics? Better eyesight than me
Are you looking at the examples @Kodiak420 provided? The OP's pics are on page 1.
Kodiak420
Well-Known Member
I was looking at the picture in post 26,that said these are the tops and bottoms.I may have made a MISTAKE,.Sorry if I did.
I edited my first post to try to clarify my response.
I edited my first post to try to clarify my response.
Thanks for compiling and sharing!I wouldn't be able to answer that, to many variables(strain, environment, gardening practices.
Also take a look around on this site it has been asked before.
And everyone else in the thread thathas given you good advice.
took the liberty to find you a couple threads
Kodiak420
Well-Known Member
SmokeLake
Well-Known Member
My opinion is you have beautiful buds none of which are ready at all. You should see some hairs turn colour then fresh ones grow out as calyxs stack up. I see buds with no hairs turned yet they look very fresh. 2-4weeks will bring about big changes dont rely on anything with autos Ive grown autos that required a flip to 12/12 to start budding. The genetics can be very unstable due to the nature of the plants
GoodLuck Happy420!!
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
Every strain and genetic is different. It is hard to determine ripeness by secondary effects like stamen color until you are familiar with that genetic strain. 100X zoom is the easiest way to tell when tricombes are done. If you don't have an way to get a good look you may have to go 1980s old school. Snip a little piece off of a secondary bud. place it in the microwave for 5 seconds cool for 60 seconds. Do this 3 times.It will not be smooth but you can judge the ripeness by the level of mellowing effect. Before that it was foil suspended over a 60wat bulb over night. Gotta love technology! lol
Getglassus
420 Member
This seems like a typical problem that people encounter with autos! If the buds appear largely developed but the only thing that is pending is the turning of the white hairs, then it is better to check the tri-chomes. Get a jewelers magnifying class or loupe and try to spot predominately cloudy and a few amber colored trichomes, as they are often viewed as the perfect time to harvest. Also, sometimes, autos can be a bit behind schedule but a bit of delay always pays off in terms of quality and taste!
BigBudsBunny
Well-Known Member
have 2- 9 weekers according to breeder 9 weeks (pic is at 9 weeks) and done....NOT....they still had 2+ weeks to go. According to the breeder I must have done something wrong to cause the delay - Not sure what that can be but it was my 1'st time with autos. Everything I have read seems it takes longer than breeder states...marketing?
![20241027_104731[1].jpg](https://www.420magazine.com/community/attachments/20241027_104731-1-jpg.3679964/ "20241027_104731[1].jpg")
![20241027_104726[1].jpg](https://www.420magazine.com/community/attachments/20241027_104726-1-jpg.3679965/ "20241027_104726[1].jpg")
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
First of all a delay is a Good thing
And secondly if you read the fine print you may find something that says harvest time is "from the start" of flowering !
Cheers
BigBudsBunny
Well-Known Member
the fine print says - comprehensive growing time 9 weeks from seed to finish!!!! these are autoflowers not photos!
i.e. GREEN LIGHT AUTOMATIC – Urban Legends Automatics
i.e. GREEN LIGHT AUTOMATIC – Urban Legends Automatics
Chuckeye
Well-Known Member
I was referring to autoflowers, some breeders use the start of flower, ie., sign of pistils, as the start of the stated harvest time..
Cheers