Bud Rot & Mold vs. Microbes

I'm wondering two things.
Would oatmeal also work as food for the microbes, and would Nature's Candy work, since it's meant to feed microbes in the soil? The Remo kit I bought came with a bottle of that, and I don't want to waste it.
I'm thinking I might try it out.
I can't use the NC in my backyard. I tested it out in the garden and the critters went nuts digging that patch up overnight.
 
I'm wondering two things.
Would oatmeal also work as food for the microbes, and would Nature's Candy work, since it's meant to feed microbes in the soil? The Remo kit I bought came with a bottle of that, and I don't want to waste it.
I'm thinking I might try it out.
I can't use the NC in my backyard. I tested it out in the garden and the critters went nuts digging that patch up overnight.
Most likely yes. Try it and see if you get the bubbling that shows the growing microbial population.

I don't know anything about your NC.
 
Update on the PM experiment;

I had stop spraying for 72 hrs, I wanted to see possible proliferation of PM back on the treated leaf. Nothing, nothing at all, and the rest of the affected leaves are starting to grow mold on top of the PM.
Arrows point at heavy concentration of PM and Mold. The circle is the area treated.

0592CBC0-03F1-4E72-A8D6-FD9A29D20939.jpeg

44C562C7-6149-4618-9A55-1709808A99FB.jpeg
36DF3009-AB79-44A4-B09D-18C6AA767344.jpeg


This is JMS of willow tree leaf at non diluted foliar.
Today I will visit the clones and spray full force non diluted, despite my clones being PM free I still want to see the plants reaction, later on the week I will proceed with the moms same scale non diluted JMS.
 
Highya Azimuth, Danishoes, guys,

Good to know JMS is working for you too. I sprayed just before the last rain storm, and had very little budrot in the Mobsta, Most was just the little sugar s little gray, and remove the bud it's connected to, and gone. Could have been left from before, though. I know, not very scientific. Just observations. There was 3 small instances of botrytis on SSH (Super Silver Haze). I haven't sprayed them at all. So, that's about it from my neck of the woods! Happy Smokin'
 
Update on the PM experiment;

I had stop spraying for 72 hrs, I wanted to see possible proliferation of PM back on the treated leaf. Nothing, nothing at all, and the rest of the affected leaves are starting to grow mold on top of the PM.
Arrows point at heavy concentration of PM and Mold. The circle is the area treated.

0592CBC0-03F1-4E72-A8D6-FD9A29D20939.jpeg

44C562C7-6149-4618-9A55-1709808A99FB.jpeg
36DF3009-AB79-44A4-B09D-18C6AA767344.jpeg


This is JMS of willow tree leaf at non diluted foliar.
Today I will visit the clones and spray full force non diluted, despite my clones being PM free I still want to see the plants reaction, later on the week I will proceed with the moms same scale non diluted JMS.
What is the goal of PM?

Is it a test for soil enhancement when scraped off? Is it used as a foliar?
You seem to be working hard on it. I just don't know thw purppose.

Cheers
 
What is the goal of PM?

Is it a test for soil enhancement when scraped off? Is it used as a foliar?
You seem to be working hard on it. I just don't know thw purppose.

Cheers

Powdery Mildew is one of the most common disease not only for cannabis but for many many vegetables (I am a small scale organic farmer). PM costs many dollars in yields for farmers, like the most common cash crops that get hit hard with PM are tomatos, cucumber, all squashes/zuchinnis, strawberries... just to name a few.
PM goal is to suck nutrients out of the plant thru the leaf, stem... but it wont kill the plant, it will strave the plant and then some other pathogen will kill the plant.

Cannabis

Caused by several fungi including Golovinomyces ambrosiae (syn. G. spadiceus) and Podosphaera macularis.[33] See also List of hemp diseases § Powdery mildew.

The strain of Mildew that hits Cannabis is the same that hits many other crops.

I am looking for a organic solution to kill and/or stop the PM on all the veggies plants not just cannabis, I will be using these JMS solutions to grow food next year. I have a preventive method using Neem and other oils but once the PM starts eating the plant you need a corrective solution. All the methods used here work for cannabis but when it comes to food you can't use the same.

Everyhting I use for my cannabis came from my experiences with organic vegetable farming, permaculture and living soil practices. KNF is based on growing food not cannabis.

As you can see fighting Mildew in any setting is pretty crucial. And if you can see trying hard to figure it out is because I am not satisfied with the products that exist now.

:passitleft:
 
Powdery Mildew is one of the most common disease not only for cannabis but for many many vegetables (I am a small scale organic farmer). PM costs many dollars in yields for farmers, like the most common cash crops that get hit hard with PM are tomatos, cucumber, all squashes/zuchinnis, strawberries... just to name a few.
PM goal is to suck nutrients out of the plant thru the leaf, stem... but it wont kill the plant, it will strave the plant and then some other pathogen will kill the plant.

Cannabis

Caused by several fungi including Golovinomyces ambrosiae (syn. G. spadiceus) and Podosphaera macularis.[33] See also List of hemp diseases § Powdery mildew.

The strain of Mildew that hits Cannabis is the same that hits many other crops.

I am looking for a organic solution to kill and/or stop the PM on all the veggies plants not just cannabis, I will be using these JMS solutions to grow food next year. I have a preventive method using Neem and other oils but once the PM starts eating the plant you need a corrective solution. All the methods used here work for cannabis but when it comes to food you can't use the same.

Everyhting I use for my cannabis came from my experiences with organic vegetable farming, permaculture and living soil practices. KNF is based on growing food not cannabis.

As you can see fighting Mildew in any setting is pretty crucial. And if you can see trying hard to figure it out is because I am not satisfied with the products that exist now.

:passitleft:
Awesome trial then! I hope it succeeds. You may even be able to market it since it is such a wide-spread problem. :thumb:
 
Highya Azi, CR, guys,

I don't add anything to the JMS, just because the ladies are all budded out, and I didn't want to add anything unnessary. Just an opinion, though! Happy Smokin'
 
Hey Azi and co, I am busy brewing a batch with a friend who will use it. Do we need to add oil or castile soap to the solution to make it stay on the leaves?
Don't have to but it will help evenly coat the leaves with an even sheen rather than droplets that roll off the leaves easier. Leaves often have a waxy counting on them to help them shed rain and a true soap (look for "potassium salts of fatty acids in the ingredients list) can help better coat them.
 
Don't have to but it will help evenly coat the leaves with an even sheen rather than droplets that roll off the leaves easier. Leaves often have a waxy counting on them to help them shed rain and a true soap (look for "potassium salts of fatty acids in the ingredients list) can help better coat them.
Thank you. On our walks yesterday we spotted a lot of Aloe. Would that work?
 
I've started a thread for my worm compost tea test:

 
Thank you. On our walks yesterday we spotted a lot of Aloe. Would that work?
Aloe vera or Cape aloe?
This is Cape aloe
Screenshot_2022-09-29-08-44-05-564.jpeg

I don't know if aloe vera grows wild down there. It's native to the Arabian peninsula, but it has become an invasive species in parts of the African continent.
 
Aloe vera or Cape aloe?
This is Cape aloe
Screenshot_2022-09-29-08-44-05-564.jpeg

I don't know if aloe vera grows wild down there. It's native to the Arabian peninsula, but it has become an invasive species in parts of the African continent.
It does grow wild. We have stunning Aloes. Thank you Mel we aren't allowed to remove wild plants so I will buy and plant in my garden.
 
For those following along I should point out that we are using the JMS (Jadam Microbial Solution) a bit 'off label.'

In the book, Master Cho recommends another of his concoctions, Jadam Sulfur, to combat grey mold. Making it is a more involved process than for the JMS, but if we find the JMS is less successful than is hoped for, there is an alternative that can be tried as well.


Thanks Azimuth for starting this thread and to all contributors posting here!

I’ve had the usual problems with critters but also at times I’ve had problems with plant vigor. (indoor soil based grows)

Anywho I kinda like the idea of a sulfur based Jadam mentioned on page 3….I’ve noticed on the label of micronized garden sulfur it claims that sulfur is miticide (kills mites plus quite a few other species thrips, etc) plus it’s a preventative for leaf spots, rust and PM.

I’ve brewed a few kelp & castings teas but now I’m looking at JMS more closely. I’m still on the road until November but I’m wondering if I can brew JMS now before weather turns cold and let it sit idle for 7 weeks until I’m ready to use it?
 
I’m wondering if I can brew JMS now before weather turns cold and let it sit idle for 7 weeks until I’m ready to use it?
Greetings @013. The JMS should be used when the bubbles at the surface are at their peak, which is usually between two and maybe five days depending on temperature (higher temps, faster results).

After the peak in bubbles the microbe population declines rapidly so it would be pretty useless for that application after 7 weeks.
 
Candida's never got PM but nothing in the yard did either so... just getting some bud rot now. Hoping for a week more + with the weather, we'll see. One is finished, the caged one is left.
So I sprayed JMS once a week.






 
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