You can go back after a good flush. Start back at 1/4 then trying bumping up to half, or normal. Keep an eye on any leaves that are not damaged. The plant overall should just start to look better, and as it does you can adjust the nutes accordingly.
Brown Spotting! Autoflower White Widow
- Thread starter Dutchman1990
- Start date
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- #22
Excellent !! Thanks for the tips ! 
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- #23
Soo white widow 2... Thoughts??
The growth near buds has greened up but other parts that had mild spotting have gotten worse after flush.... plant otherwise looks to be doing good? Buds are fattening up but all old growth has some pretty sad leaves!
The growth near buds has greened up but other parts that had mild spotting have gotten worse after flush.... plant otherwise looks to be doing good? Buds are fattening up but all old growth has some pretty sad leaves!
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- #24
i went back to a 1/4 strength feed today with 6ml of calmag bloom a+b@4ml and bigbud@4ml PER GAL.
I dunno, you say spotting which sounds like pH issues still. Let's see if we can get @Pennywise to give his valued advice
Here's my thinking. IMHO I would stop with all the nutes and stick with pH'd water. If it is in fact pH issues everything is being locked out and any nutrients you are adding could be exaggerating the issue. Let some others chime in for another opinion.
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- #27
pH noted. I’ll go back to straight water for next 2-3 waterings unless there is another thought!?
Those second set of picks are most definitely a cal mag issue. You know there no (1) size fits all when it comes to cal/mag. What I mean... some bottled nutrient companies will tell you that the right ratio is 3/1, then others will tell you its 5/1, and then those different ratio recommendations go on n' on n' on. But none of those recommended ratios have ever been the way that I have found most cannabis plants like it. Anyhow... when it comes to cal/mag its pretty hard to toxify a plant with either supplement so if your pH is really in check its usually the lack of one or other that causes those brown to black shaded blotches that always turn into crispy brown blotches that are usually surround by a yellowing rim or halo before the entire leaf gets extra crispy rather quickly. You know, I have to admit, I got so tired of that happening that I just quit growing strains that seem to carry that trait for a long while. But after doing that for a few years or so I sat down and looked over all my journals and after doing that I decided that instead of continuing to restrict myself to what I could grow I needed to come up with a base solution that would deal with that issue for any strain I might want to grow. I did that because I figured if I was to do that I wouldn't ever need to deal with another ridiculous cal/mag deficiency again. So now instead of having this deficiency pop up, I only have to deal with this issue if I have a toxcity from my base containing to much of these two very important supplements. But you know what, till this very day, and that has been for many years, I have never had to deal with another cal mag issue.
My base is now like this... for ro, distilled or even tap water that reads less than 80ppm(s)
per gallon
Botanicare cal-mag
1-3 weeks
3.0m + 50ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
6.0m + 75ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
8.0m + 150ppm epsom salt
GO camg+
1-3 weeks
4.0m + 60ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
6.0m + 90ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
8.0m + 180ppm epsom salt
TF magical
1-3 weeks
3m + 45ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
5.0m + 80ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
7.0m + 170ppm epsom salt
I just wanted to add this...
Myself telling you what "I" use for my base is in no way meant to convince you to use what "I" use for my base, its just what works very well for me!
My base is now like this... for ro, distilled or even tap water that reads less than 80ppm(s)
per gallon
Botanicare cal-mag
1-3 weeks
3.0m + 50ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
6.0m + 75ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
8.0m + 150ppm epsom salt
GO camg+
1-3 weeks
4.0m + 60ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
6.0m + 90ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
8.0m + 180ppm epsom salt
TF magical
1-3 weeks
3m + 45ppm epsom salt
3 weeks onward until flush
light feeders
5.0m + 80ppm epsom salt
heavy feeders
7.0m + 170ppm epsom salt
I just wanted to add this...
Myself telling you what "I" use for my base is in no way meant to convince you to use what "I" use for my base, its just what works very well for me!
- Thread starter
- #29
I’m leaning toward a calmag or ph issue I’m just not sure what! It has been receiving same nutes and everything as her sisters yet she’s the only one affected! It’s ok though this is a perfect time for me to learn and curve this into a good finish! That is some great advise about the calmag. I have already decided to up my calmag (slightly) my next run as I know I have been going light since the beginning. But all my girls this far have faired really well! We just need to get WW2 back to health and then off to the finish line !!
Always make sure your PH is where it needs to be, and remember most problems occur from high ppm totals. PH is your number 1 suspect for lockout and number 2 suspect is ppm's being way to high. You can feed a plant what it needs but if you over do it you will kill the plant. The stress caused opens the plant up for all kinds of issues.
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- #31
Well for the flush i got a runoff of 5.6 and then my feeding or watering I’ve been at 5.6 going in since my one Misfeeding on aug.31. Since then I have been steady at 5.6 going in. That being said my feeding PPM with all my nutes is as follows:
PER GALLON @1/2 recommendation from supplier with AN pH perfect line up
6ml calmag
8ml bloom a
8ml bloom b
4ml bigbud
My PPM comes out at 980. Is that high for flowering? In my research I’ve heard 1200-1500 is acceptable for most flowering plants but with autos to keep it lower I have kept all my girls on a Low feed schedule. Would this still contribute to the spotting?
PER GALLON @1/2 recommendation from supplier with AN pH perfect line up
6ml calmag
8ml bloom a
8ml bloom b
4ml bigbud
My PPM comes out at 980. Is that high for flowering? In my research I’ve heard 1200-1500 is acceptable for most flowering plants but with autos to keep it lower I have kept all my girls on a Low feed schedule. Would this still contribute to the spotting?
- Thread starter
- #32
I use botanicare CalMag and through veg I used 3ml and through flowering I’ve been using 5 the. Just bumped to 6ml as the plants are drinking a lot more
I normally run around 600 ppm or so, also 5.6 ph will lockout Calcium. I run around 6.0 PH AN is supposed to be PH perfect but I still adjusted ph if it got to out of whack.
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- #34
So I should run 6.0ph even in a soiless mix like PromixHP? I though that was to high would 5.8 be best?
I'm in coco running between 6.0 and 6.5, Calcium is taken up best above 6.0 let your ph wander a little bit. If you water daily I would set ph slightly different each day. Your plant will be able to take up what it needs that way. If your promix has no nutrients to start with I'd be nervous around 5.5-5.6.
Hey Penny, thanks for chiming in...so why does everyone push 5.6-6.0 in a soiless? I had suggested earlier to try and get it around 5.8 for soilless based on other posts that used the PMHP.
The reason I ask is my next grow I am using two types for an experiment...one just ProMix HP with nutes and the other with organic potting soil.
So the organic potting soil I would run a lower pH and the HP a higher one? The thinking being the organic stuff has been nuted already with organic stuff
If it's a premixed soil and has a living micro herd don't worry about PH. With soilless I was told 5.5-6.0 with 5.8 being the sweet spot. But lower ph levels much below 6.0 seems to cause a lot of lockouts especially Calcium. I'm running Dynagro Foliage Pro & Protekt and Dynagro reccomends 6.0-6.5 ph which is more in line with my personal experience so far.
OK so for the most part I'm correct on my thinking, but having said that and what you just mentioned I will be running 6.0 for both pots on the experiment, and adjust pH if and when needed.
Thanks Penny.
If the ph swings a little higher or a little lower that's good. Different nutrients are taken up at different ph levels. Vary the ph a little to make sure the plant can take up everything it needs.
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok so just to make sure I’m reading this all right.
In PromixHP the medium I’m running it has no nutrients. My best pH going in for feeding or watering I should be aiming for between 5.8-6.0pH? If I feed a 5.8 on day1 then feed a 6.0 on day 3 per say would this allow for proper nutrient uptake without locking anything out! Trying to wrap my head around this the best I can for my next grow so I can avoid these issues the best I can! I will be running PromixHP for my next few grows so I want to make sure I have the best knowledge of it before moving on.
So quick recap:
PromixHP with no nutes should be fed/watered with pH lvls of 5.8-6.0 correct?