Beam angle

Hdinkleman said:
so i was trying to find the correct light/distance for my light using a ppf calculator.
what is the beam width on a hlg quantum board? or how do i figure this out?


this isthe one i was using, anyone tried it before?
Click to expand...
I have not used that calculator however even using it is just going to be a rough guesstimate. Because even if you know the beam angle you're still going to have light bouncing off of the floor the ceiling and the walls and part of your ppf will be determined not only by the angle of the light source but the reflectivity % of all of the surfaces in the grow area. I would think to even be fairly close on actual par/ppfd a photon flux meter is about the best bet.

That being said, I'm sure there are some members here that will know the radiation angle.
 
fanleaf said:
I have not used that calculator however even using it is just going to be a rough guesstimate. Because even if you know the beam angle you're still going to have light bouncing off of the floor the ceiling and the walls and part of your ppf will be determined not only by the angle of the light source but the reflectivity % of all of the surfaces in the grow area. I would think to even be fairly close on actual par/ppfd a photon flux meter is about the best bet.

That being said, I'm sure there are some members here that will know the radiation angle.
Click to expand...
k was just trying to get a general
idea, i try to keep the qb on low so it stays cooler so was just trying to get a rough estimate on ppf to know where to adjust it
 
PurpleGunRack said:
The beam angle for the Samsung LM561c and LM301b diodes is 120°.

No need to calculate anything, just crank it up :)

A QB288 on a heatsink should just stay under 135w AC.

Keep it 20cm away from the canopy and your good.
Click to expand...
thank you for that tidbit of info, i used the ppf readings online and had punched the info in the calculator and found 110-130 defrees was giving me a sinilar calculation so makes sense it is 120*
so i should crank up the light little by little everyday until i see light stress?
or should i try to get to a certain DLI for the plants?
 
The taller the plants are the higher you have to turn it up to get light to the lower buds.

With that area you should turn it to 135w and keep it around 1' above canopy.

Train your plants or grow SoG to keep them low and you'll have plenty of height :)
 
PAR meters work fantastic

I finally got one after my 2nd QB light
Helps a little with my 288s since the pump out a lot more watts than my 120s or 132s
Easy to judge the distance as well as the penetration into the lower canopy

Great $120 spent for sure
 
A question somewhat related. I grabbed one of these 260 quantum boards and the heat it’s producing is far beyond what I expected. I’m getting 20 degree difference from the intake air.
Is removing the driver and mounting outside the tent how folks are dealing with this?

If I can’t get this under control there’s no way I could use this thing once the weather warms up.
 
Gadfly said:
A question somewhat related. I grabbed one of these 260 quantum boards and the heat it’s producing is far beyond what I expected. I’m getting 20 degree difference from the intake air.
Is removing the driver and mounting outside the tent how folks are dealing with this?

If I can’t get this under control there’s no way I could use this thing once the weather warms up.
Click to expand...

Are you running it on max, or did you dial it to 260w?

Sufficient ventilation is key.
In my tent I have 3-5°C above ambient temps.
During the summer I run the lights at night.

Mounting the driver outside the tent will only help a tiny bit, the lights produce the majority of the heat.
 
Chris Scorpio said:
My driver is at 108f, at full blast
The 288 bds are 85f at heat sink or bulb side
Click to expand...

wait i purchased a built hlg 260, does that mean i could unsrew the the driver off the board and mount it outside the tent? yes it does get hot at full blast, that would be a great effin idea
 
just checked the lead off of the board isnt long enough to have out of the tent :nomo::confused:

question though, the harder i drive the light, the higher i raise it off the plant anyways correct? so as long as i keep LST and keep an even canopy i dont need to blast the thing anyways because i dont need to penetrate that far into the canopy?
im currently running at approx 150watts 24 inches from canopy
i have a 4in exhaust carbon scrubber running 24/7 to pull out air, but was thinking during the summer might be a bytch to keep cool.
actully now that i think of it last year i had it running at 200 watts and didnt have an issue with heat during the dog dayd of summer, i just had a ac in my apartment cooling the ambient air
 
Chris Scorpio said:
Show a pic of the driver on the BD and the wires

Be easy to extend them I bet
Click to expand...
yeah i wpuld need to get the light down and extend the wires on my own with a connector or some other method, it should be ok, the single hlg 260 should be more than enough to flower the 2.5 x 2.5 space running at 50%
and also remeber on my other thread im supplementing with some eye hortilux full spectrum + uv light so im hoping it will be on
 
not a great pic but you can see that theres almost no slack in the wire thats connecting the driver to the actual board, the power cord is plenty long though

its a hlg260

1727911


it only lpads half the picture in alot of the pics i post
 

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