- Thread starter
- #461
I use this as my basic curing guide. You'll notice that below 55% there is no curing taking place. Welcome To My New Journal - OMMSOG
Bassman's RDWC - High Defoliation - Master Kush Grow #2
- Thread starter Bassman59
- Start date
I use this as my basic curing guide. You'll notice that below 55% there is no curing taking place. Welcome To My New Journal - OMMSOG
Hey Bass!
Happy New Year brother!!
Happy New Year brother!!
- Thread starter
- #463
BAH!
Plant #2, which was approx 1320g wet, came in at 10oz dry. So we have 18oz so far with 2 plants to go. They were lighter & fluffier sadly so I think I'll be lucky to see 10oz from the two of them.
I'm sure the lessor weight than hoped for is because just like previous grow they vegged too tall. Less than the previous but still too tall. Some of it may also have to do with the likely overcrowding in the tent too. I'm still not going to redesign the layout. Stubborn I guess, lazy too. But I'm starting to accumulate rather tall towers of wasted 5 gal buckets and dont want to be ordering 20-30 uniseals on every whim to change. So I'm just going to have to work on better timing and shorter gals.
More pics after everything is in jars curing. Bud porn, mounds of bud, piles of trim, trich shots, etc. And I should have a preliminary uncured smoke report soon too. Gotta give some to a friend to let me know.
Plant #2, which was approx 1320g wet, came in at 10oz dry. So we have 18oz so far with 2 plants to go. They were lighter & fluffier sadly so I think I'll be lucky to see 10oz from the two of them.
I'm sure the lessor weight than hoped for is because just like previous grow they vegged too tall. Less than the previous but still too tall. Some of it may also have to do with the likely overcrowding in the tent too. I'm still not going to redesign the layout. Stubborn I guess, lazy too. But I'm starting to accumulate rather tall towers of wasted 5 gal buckets and dont want to be ordering 20-30 uniseals on every whim to change. So I'm just going to have to work on better timing and shorter gals.
More pics after everything is in jars curing. Bud porn, mounds of bud, piles of trim, trich shots, etc. And I should have a preliminary uncured smoke report soon too. Gotta give some to a friend to let me know.
Hi Bass - Regardless of the weights, you had a great grow and successfully overcame a few challenges along the way.
On the mold. I've had it happen in only a few buds/colas, and removing them and staying vigilant was all it took. The advice on drying carefully and not taking many chances with moisture is a sound one IMO. A couple of times, I actually jarred some buds separately that I thought were a potential risk to keep them isolated from the bud that seemed less likely to carry mold. Still, the questionable jars have all been fine. My biggest loss was 2-3z of jarred bud that I didn't remember to burp as well as I should have.
Another good tip - consider breaking your larger bud into smaller pieces when jarring it. Big is impressive but problematic (I'm mostly talking larger cola style buds here). The other benefit to this is that you can inspect them a bit as your break them up. In addition to the obvious fuzzy mold look, you want to look for them to feel "insubstantial" when you break them open. If they seem like they just want to fall apart when you break them open, mold is taking it's toll. I HATE that feeling, lol.
Moldy bud often looks normal on the outside but is almost like it's hollow or missing something when you break it open. Smell, is a good indicator too. If you have a trusted person with a good nose (I think I've heard you say you don't have a good sense of scent) you can often smell if something is off (like a damp basement smell).
Anyway, great grow my friend, and congrats on the harvest. Fingers crossed that there will be no more of the m-word!!
Happy New Year!!
On the mold. I've had it happen in only a few buds/colas, and removing them and staying vigilant was all it took. The advice on drying carefully and not taking many chances with moisture is a sound one IMO. A couple of times, I actually jarred some buds separately that I thought were a potential risk to keep them isolated from the bud that seemed less likely to carry mold. Still, the questionable jars have all been fine. My biggest loss was 2-3z of jarred bud that I didn't remember to burp as well as I should have.
Another good tip - consider breaking your larger bud into smaller pieces when jarring it. Big is impressive but problematic (I'm mostly talking larger cola style buds here). The other benefit to this is that you can inspect them a bit as your break them up. In addition to the obvious fuzzy mold look, you want to look for them to feel "insubstantial" when you break them open. If they seem like they just want to fall apart when you break them open, mold is taking it's toll. I HATE that feeling, lol.
Moldy bud often looks normal on the outside but is almost like it's hollow or missing something when you break it open. Smell, is a good indicator too. If you have a trusted person with a good nose (I think I've heard you say you don't have a good sense of scent) you can often smell if something is off (like a damp basement smell).
Anyway, great grow my friend, and congrats on the harvest. Fingers crossed that there will be no more of the m-word!!
Happy New Year!!
- Thread starter
- #465
Thanks X! I'll take your advise.
Anyone else unable to use "like" buttons suddenly? Mine aint workin.
Anyone else unable to use "like" buttons suddenly? Mine aint workin.
Cool - I sure hope you only had the one bud with the issue. Losing bud to mold after so much effort can feel devastating (to me!).
Mine's working fine (like button), but sometimes I have to refresh the page to see the buttons on newer posts (not sure if that might be your issue?).
- Thread starter
- #467
Still looks like only 1 bud. maybe I'll be lucky.
Changed to google chrome and all works fine now.
Changed to google chrome and all works fine now.
in some ways its good to have problems during a grow as it will challenge u to learn more and in the long term it will only improve ur methods. well done on a great journal mate.
gairbud
New Member
vinager works ...
sterilize your racks A.S.A.P. AND THE SPACE. the spores are everywhere. and what is your humidity. keep it below 35%. use air[fans] .
dealing with mold can be a chalenge. and has to be done asap or the whole crop can get messed up.
i have frozen a crop , steriized then redryed and didnt lose much. i pay attention to the dry/cure method i use.[very close attention.]
as it takes 14 to 21 days or longer to complete. i also leave the leaf on and trim as it drys, if the smell of anoribics[fermentation] is there i quick dry it to kill bacs and molds asap.ill send ya info on mold remedies. i spray my soil with vinager before i let the soil dry out. it kills all the mold and spores in the soil and mist the area as well. i have never lost a crop to mold and because i use a slow sweet dry cure method for most of my harvests i have to pay very close attention to bacs and molds.[smells ect] ... you will need to do a very thoruogh sterilization of your growing area and tools. [also milk in water sprays works good during growth] if you have mold early. damm mold can suck. send ya the info in private message.
sterilize your racks A.S.A.P. AND THE SPACE. the spores are everywhere. and what is your humidity. keep it below 35%. use air[fans] .
dealing with mold can be a chalenge. and has to be done asap or the whole crop can get messed up.
i have frozen a crop , steriized then redryed and didnt lose much. i pay attention to the dry/cure method i use.[very close attention.]
as it takes 14 to 21 days or longer to complete. i also leave the leaf on and trim as it drys, if the smell of anoribics[fermentation] is there i quick dry it to kill bacs and molds asap.ill send ya info on mold remedies. i spray my soil with vinager before i let the soil dry out. it kills all the mold and spores in the soil and mist the area as well. i have never lost a crop to mold and because i use a slow sweet dry cure method for most of my harvests i have to pay very close attention to bacs and molds.[smells ect] ... you will need to do a very thoruogh sterilization of your growing area and tools. [also milk in water sprays works good during growth] if you have mold early. damm mold can suck. send ya the info in private message.
gairbud
New Member
trim buds off stems and that helps too i always check the dryness of stems that tells me what is inside[moisture of buds]. can always rehydrate for smoother smoke.if dry is to quick.
gairbud
New Member
this info from many sites and many other experts. [and my experiance]
Budrot (Botrytis) is a very common worldwide fungus that attacks both indoor and outdoor crops under certain conditions.
“Budrot” is also known as “brown rot”, “grey mold” and other names. Airborne Botrytis spores can be found everywhere, all times of the year, and will attack many different species of plants. Botrytis will attack flowers, and eventually leaves and stems.
growers running sea of green, perpetual harvest, remote grows, outdoor, or multiple strains (each with different flowering periods) should keep an eye out for Botrytis near harvest time.
Outdoor growers need to be hypersensitive to weather conditions near harvest time. Rain, morning dew, frost and cool fall nights may increase the risk of budrot and powdery mildew.
Fully developed marijuana buds provide ideal conditions for spore germination: warm and moist plant tissues. Botrytis will initially attack the largest and densest buds in the garden, because they provide the ideal conditions for germination. Weak plants will also be attacked rapidly.
Identifying and preventing budrot
Budrot will infect and turn colas to mush in a matter of days and may destroy a crop in a week if left unchecked. Botrytis loves warm, and humid (50% or over humidity) conditions. Lowering humidity will slow and stop spore germination.
Good ventilation and decent air circulation help prevent infection.
A grow room may smell noticeably moldy if Botrytis has attacked one or more colas. Once a cola has been infected, Botrytis will spread incredibly fast. Entire colas will turn to brown mush and spores will be produced, attacking other nearby colas.
Ventilation may spread viable spores throughout the room.
Measures to prevent budrot in the final stages of flowering:
Early veg and flower pruning of undergrowth to promote air circulation
Hepa filter room and intake air sources.
Introduce low levels of ozone into room air. Ozone is effective against pollen, podwery mildew and other airborne spores.
Lowering room humidity (warming nighttime air and venting frequently or using a dehumidifier)
Decreasing watering cycles and amounts to reduce room humidity
Large, dense colas should be periodically inspected. Brown tissues deep within the bud will smell moldy and may become liquid. Removing fan leaves during the last few days before harvest to promote air circulation Serenade (thanks vaaran)
"Serenade controls the following: ....Botrytis, Powdery mildew, Downey mildew..."
"Certified organic by OMRI and EPA/USDA National Organic Program,
Serenade offers growers the luxury of application without weather or timing restrictions and there are no phyto-toxicity issues"
"To apply, simply spray on leaves and shoots to provide complete coverage. Best results will be had be pre-treating plants before signs of disease set it and then every week to protect newly formed foliage"
What if budrot is found?
Once budrot has been detected, the grower should isolate infected buds by removing them from the growroom immediately and harvesting the infected colas,
followed by a rapid dry of the harvested colas. Take immediate steps to reduce room humidity. Afterwards, the entire crop should be carefully inspected for infection and damage.
The grower may want to harvest early if more than one rotting cola has been found. Spores may have spread and are germinating deep within other colas.
Can I salvage budrot-infected colas?
Yes. Remove the infected colas from the main room,
Trim out the infection (Trim more than you can see – Botrytis often infects adjacent tissues) and quick-dry them. Re-inspect buds – they should not smell moldy.
Smoking infected buds is not recommended.
If you already have an issue, there are several methods of treatment/eradication.
Chamomile - is also effective in preventing damping off. (high sulfur content)
Brew a weak batch of chamomile tea, one tea bag to two cups of boiling water.
Allow the infusion to cool, then dilute it so that it is a pale yellowish color.
Add the cooled, diluted tea to a spray bottle and use as needed. This mixture will be good for about a week.
Spray the seedlings regularly until they are transplanted, to ensure that you don't have any problems with damping off.
Compost Teas - can also be effective for the control of fungus by introducing beneficial bacteria,provides nutrients that can help a plant protect itself from pathogens and increases vigor and growth.There are many commercial preparations and formula's nad many recipe's available online. But compost teas should be used fresh, and preferably within hours of being prepared. Maintain the aerobic properties by keeping the mix well aerated during the process. The tea should be dark brown, and not smell sour. If the tea smells of ammonia or smell rotten, discard. It has become anaerobic, and potentially hazardous. (e-colli, salmonella...)
Milk - is also effective against powdery mold, but scientists are still unable to determine why.Milk spray can be made from 2%, whole, or skim. Effective at a 1:9 ratio (1 part milk : 9 parts water) but the ratio is effective up to about a 1:3 ratio. (30% milk) A solution of 30% of milk or greater, and a benign mold will form on the tops of the leaves.
Neem Oil - is an all-purpose natural pesticide. It works on arthropods, and provides protection from fungal and bacterial diseases, (including gray mold) and can be used prophyllactically against powdery mildew, preventing spores from germinating.
Neem oil must be used with dishsoap per the instructions. It can be sprayed directly on the plant(s), or if there's a risk of 'blowing' the spores with the spray, (infecting other plants) it can be painted on both sides of all leaves and stems. (or both)
a) Latex gloves, it just seems like a good precautionary measure to wear these while “operating” on a Botrytis site.
b) A dampened paper bag to contain the offending bud once it’s removed and it’s billions of spores.
(Nothing like carrying an infected bud out of your garden in your bare hand while it showers your healthy babies with deadly spores.)
c) Dampened paper towel. I use these to cover over the healthy area immediate around the infection site to capture any
dislodged spores while I am removing the infected bud.
d) Sharp Scissors washed in hot soapy water and dipped in alcohol. (I am not 100% sure if alcohol kills these spores but it seems a reasonable precautionary measure).
e) Once I have the above in place, I gently pull/bend the stem slightly so as minimize disturbing the offending bud,
slide my scissors tight to the base of the stem and snip off the bad bud, it is gently put into the damp paper bag.
f) I than treat the “infection” site and associated stem area with a
copper sulphate solution on a Q-TIP to help stop the Botrytis from literally crawling up or down the stem to the next buds.
Identifying mold on marijuana
You can identify mold by looking closely for black spots, dark green spots, white/grayish stringy matter or other unusual coloring.
The mold will also noticeably effect the smell of the marijuana, turning it a more musty and unpleasant smell.
Mold spores sometimes resemble the crystal looking trichomes that naturally occur on marijuana which can cause
some novice users to mistake signs of mold for characteristics of higher grade marijuana. The best way to identify
mold on marijuana is to view it under a black light. Mold spores will appear a distinctive green hue when put under a black light.
Preventing / Treating mold on marijuana
Mold needs at least 15% moisture to survive, so the best way to prevent mold is to keep all harvested marijuana in the ideal 10%-15% moisture content level. Growers should always allow enough time for freshly cut plants to dry in a dark ventilated area. Marijuana being cured in jars should be opened every 12 to 24 hours to allow proper air flow. Always be careful when attempting to re-hydrate over-dried buds by adding orange peels or water because it’s very easy to add too much moisture and fruit peels are an easy breeding ground for mold.
Bud rot or Botrytis is one of the nastiest diseases your plants can get. It is a fungus that attacks the plant and then spreads quickly through the buds, destroying everything in its path. The onset of bud rot is mainly caused by four factors:
1. High-humidity (>50%) in a low-temp room (<70 degrees)
2. Lack of sufficient air circulation
3. Dirty pruning scissors
4. Improper removal of fan leaves where small portions of their stems are left un-removed.
Bud rot only shows up indoors when the conditions are right to facilitate its growth. To prevent it from showing up, keep the temperature of your grow room above 70deg and the humidity below 50%. Be sure to water during the beginning of the light cycle and always mop up all standing water. This will help cut down on humidity during the dark hours when it is colder in the room.
The reason the bud rot always seems to attack the biggest colas is because the biggest colas are always the highest points of the plant. There is a constant flow of water and nutrients that originate in the plant’s roots and work their way up through the plant and out the tops (Colas). The nutrients are left behind for the plant to use and the water evaporates away. This process is called transpiration and it is how plants feed themselves. Sometimes though when the buds start to get really big and dense, the water doesn’t evaporate away like it is supposed to and just collects inside the bud. This is a giant invitation for bud rot. The only thing you can do to prevent this in addition to maintaining proper climate is to install proper circulation.Put as many wall-mounted oscillating fans as you can fit in your grow room and keep them blowing on the plants. Not only will this help prevent bud rot,it will also strengthen the plants and help prevent pests as well.
Make sure to keep your pruning scissors sanitized at all times. You wouldn’t want a surgeon to use the same tools he used on the last guy on you without cleaning them first right? Sanitize your garden tools in order to prevent the transmission of diseases.
Don’t just hack away at the plants either. If you have to remove a fan leaf or take a clone, be sure to finish the job properly.Never leave any part of what you are removing intact. Make your cuts as close to the main stalk or branch as possible and make sure it is a clean cut. Remember you are creating open wounds on the plant that are very susceptible to disease like Botrytis, so do it nicely.
If done improperly, these wounds will not heal. Buds will eventually grow around these unhealed wounds and create an ideal place for bud rot to thrive and ruin all your hard work.
Budrot (Botrytis) is a very common worldwide fungus that attacks both indoor and outdoor crops under certain conditions.
“Budrot” is also known as “brown rot”, “grey mold” and other names. Airborne Botrytis spores can be found everywhere, all times of the year, and will attack many different species of plants. Botrytis will attack flowers, and eventually leaves and stems.
growers running sea of green, perpetual harvest, remote grows, outdoor, or multiple strains (each with different flowering periods) should keep an eye out for Botrytis near harvest time.
Outdoor growers need to be hypersensitive to weather conditions near harvest time. Rain, morning dew, frost and cool fall nights may increase the risk of budrot and powdery mildew.
Fully developed marijuana buds provide ideal conditions for spore germination: warm and moist plant tissues. Botrytis will initially attack the largest and densest buds in the garden, because they provide the ideal conditions for germination. Weak plants will also be attacked rapidly.
Identifying and preventing budrot
Budrot will infect and turn colas to mush in a matter of days and may destroy a crop in a week if left unchecked. Botrytis loves warm, and humid (50% or over humidity) conditions. Lowering humidity will slow and stop spore germination.
Good ventilation and decent air circulation help prevent infection.
A grow room may smell noticeably moldy if Botrytis has attacked one or more colas. Once a cola has been infected, Botrytis will spread incredibly fast. Entire colas will turn to brown mush and spores will be produced, attacking other nearby colas.
Ventilation may spread viable spores throughout the room.
Measures to prevent budrot in the final stages of flowering:
Early veg and flower pruning of undergrowth to promote air circulation
Hepa filter room and intake air sources.
Introduce low levels of ozone into room air. Ozone is effective against pollen, podwery mildew and other airborne spores.
Lowering room humidity (warming nighttime air and venting frequently or using a dehumidifier)
Decreasing watering cycles and amounts to reduce room humidity
Large, dense colas should be periodically inspected. Brown tissues deep within the bud will smell moldy and may become liquid. Removing fan leaves during the last few days before harvest to promote air circulation Serenade (thanks vaaran)
"Serenade controls the following: ....Botrytis, Powdery mildew, Downey mildew..."
"Certified organic by OMRI and EPA/USDA National Organic Program,
Serenade offers growers the luxury of application without weather or timing restrictions and there are no phyto-toxicity issues"
"To apply, simply spray on leaves and shoots to provide complete coverage. Best results will be had be pre-treating plants before signs of disease set it and then every week to protect newly formed foliage"
What if budrot is found?
Once budrot has been detected, the grower should isolate infected buds by removing them from the growroom immediately and harvesting the infected colas,
followed by a rapid dry of the harvested colas. Take immediate steps to reduce room humidity. Afterwards, the entire crop should be carefully inspected for infection and damage.
The grower may want to harvest early if more than one rotting cola has been found. Spores may have spread and are germinating deep within other colas.
Can I salvage budrot-infected colas?
Yes. Remove the infected colas from the main room,
Trim out the infection (Trim more than you can see – Botrytis often infects adjacent tissues) and quick-dry them. Re-inspect buds – they should not smell moldy.
Smoking infected buds is not recommended.
If you already have an issue, there are several methods of treatment/eradication.
Chamomile - is also effective in preventing damping off. (high sulfur content)
Brew a weak batch of chamomile tea, one tea bag to two cups of boiling water.
Allow the infusion to cool, then dilute it so that it is a pale yellowish color.
Add the cooled, diluted tea to a spray bottle and use as needed. This mixture will be good for about a week.
Spray the seedlings regularly until they are transplanted, to ensure that you don't have any problems with damping off.
Compost Teas - can also be effective for the control of fungus by introducing beneficial bacteria,provides nutrients that can help a plant protect itself from pathogens and increases vigor and growth.There are many commercial preparations and formula's nad many recipe's available online. But compost teas should be used fresh, and preferably within hours of being prepared. Maintain the aerobic properties by keeping the mix well aerated during the process. The tea should be dark brown, and not smell sour. If the tea smells of ammonia or smell rotten, discard. It has become anaerobic, and potentially hazardous. (e-colli, salmonella...)
Milk - is also effective against powdery mold, but scientists are still unable to determine why.Milk spray can be made from 2%, whole, or skim. Effective at a 1:9 ratio (1 part milk : 9 parts water) but the ratio is effective up to about a 1:3 ratio. (30% milk) A solution of 30% of milk or greater, and a benign mold will form on the tops of the leaves.
Neem Oil - is an all-purpose natural pesticide. It works on arthropods, and provides protection from fungal and bacterial diseases, (including gray mold) and can be used prophyllactically against powdery mildew, preventing spores from germinating.
Neem oil must be used with dishsoap per the instructions. It can be sprayed directly on the plant(s), or if there's a risk of 'blowing' the spores with the spray, (infecting other plants) it can be painted on both sides of all leaves and stems. (or both)
a) Latex gloves, it just seems like a good precautionary measure to wear these while “operating” on a Botrytis site.
b) A dampened paper bag to contain the offending bud once it’s removed and it’s billions of spores.
(Nothing like carrying an infected bud out of your garden in your bare hand while it showers your healthy babies with deadly spores.)
c) Dampened paper towel. I use these to cover over the healthy area immediate around the infection site to capture any
dislodged spores while I am removing the infected bud.
d) Sharp Scissors washed in hot soapy water and dipped in alcohol. (I am not 100% sure if alcohol kills these spores but it seems a reasonable precautionary measure).
e) Once I have the above in place, I gently pull/bend the stem slightly so as minimize disturbing the offending bud,
slide my scissors tight to the base of the stem and snip off the bad bud, it is gently put into the damp paper bag.
f) I than treat the “infection” site and associated stem area with a
copper sulphate solution on a Q-TIP to help stop the Botrytis from literally crawling up or down the stem to the next buds.
Identifying mold on marijuana
You can identify mold by looking closely for black spots, dark green spots, white/grayish stringy matter or other unusual coloring.
The mold will also noticeably effect the smell of the marijuana, turning it a more musty and unpleasant smell.
Mold spores sometimes resemble the crystal looking trichomes that naturally occur on marijuana which can cause
some novice users to mistake signs of mold for characteristics of higher grade marijuana. The best way to identify
mold on marijuana is to view it under a black light. Mold spores will appear a distinctive green hue when put under a black light.
Preventing / Treating mold on marijuana
Mold needs at least 15% moisture to survive, so the best way to prevent mold is to keep all harvested marijuana in the ideal 10%-15% moisture content level. Growers should always allow enough time for freshly cut plants to dry in a dark ventilated area. Marijuana being cured in jars should be opened every 12 to 24 hours to allow proper air flow. Always be careful when attempting to re-hydrate over-dried buds by adding orange peels or water because it’s very easy to add too much moisture and fruit peels are an easy breeding ground for mold.
Bud rot or Botrytis is one of the nastiest diseases your plants can get. It is a fungus that attacks the plant and then spreads quickly through the buds, destroying everything in its path. The onset of bud rot is mainly caused by four factors:
1. High-humidity (>50%) in a low-temp room (<70 degrees)
2. Lack of sufficient air circulation
3. Dirty pruning scissors
4. Improper removal of fan leaves where small portions of their stems are left un-removed.
Bud rot only shows up indoors when the conditions are right to facilitate its growth. To prevent it from showing up, keep the temperature of your grow room above 70deg and the humidity below 50%. Be sure to water during the beginning of the light cycle and always mop up all standing water. This will help cut down on humidity during the dark hours when it is colder in the room.
The reason the bud rot always seems to attack the biggest colas is because the biggest colas are always the highest points of the plant. There is a constant flow of water and nutrients that originate in the plant’s roots and work their way up through the plant and out the tops (Colas). The nutrients are left behind for the plant to use and the water evaporates away. This process is called transpiration and it is how plants feed themselves. Sometimes though when the buds start to get really big and dense, the water doesn’t evaporate away like it is supposed to and just collects inside the bud. This is a giant invitation for bud rot. The only thing you can do to prevent this in addition to maintaining proper climate is to install proper circulation.Put as many wall-mounted oscillating fans as you can fit in your grow room and keep them blowing on the plants. Not only will this help prevent bud rot,it will also strengthen the plants and help prevent pests as well.
Make sure to keep your pruning scissors sanitized at all times. You wouldn’t want a surgeon to use the same tools he used on the last guy on you without cleaning them first right? Sanitize your garden tools in order to prevent the transmission of diseases.
Don’t just hack away at the plants either. If you have to remove a fan leaf or take a clone, be sure to finish the job properly.Never leave any part of what you are removing intact. Make your cuts as close to the main stalk or branch as possible and make sure it is a clean cut. Remember you are creating open wounds on the plant that are very susceptible to disease like Botrytis, so do it nicely.
If done improperly, these wounds will not heal. Buds will eventually grow around these unhealed wounds and create an ideal place for bud rot to thrive and ruin all your hard work.
mountaingoat
New Member
Nice compilation gairbud
- Thread starter
- #473
Update:
Plants #3 & #4 came in at 4.2 & 5.4 oz respectively. Light and airy no doubt but super super sticky too. A really nice piney smell imo. So while I presume they had the least yield because of positioning and all four being a bit too tall, I feel good about the net overall yield and the quality is certainly there.
I've gone through all the buds and will go through all of them again 2-3 more times but no more signs of mold. Looks like just that one nug. Let's hope.
Total yield for this grow of Master Kush is 27.6 oz dry.
Today I'm going to clean up the tent. Drain buckets completely and replenish with tap and some bleach to sanitize. Then drain and replenish with tap and h202 and recirc that for a while. Then I'll re-hang the light, take clones from my 4 girls in veg, and drop them into the tent and start flowering them. I'll post some final pics after I finish all the above and start another journal with a link here.
Come Mon-Tues I'll make dry ice hash and/or cannabutter from all the trimmings along with the 6 1 gal bags of trim I have in the freezer from previous grows. Pics will follow.
Thanks for joining in for the adventure!
Plants #3 & #4 came in at 4.2 & 5.4 oz respectively. Light and airy no doubt but super super sticky too. A really nice piney smell imo. So while I presume they had the least yield because of positioning and all four being a bit too tall, I feel good about the net overall yield and the quality is certainly there.
I've gone through all the buds and will go through all of them again 2-3 more times but no more signs of mold. Looks like just that one nug. Let's hope.
Total yield for this grow of Master Kush is 27.6 oz dry.
Today I'm going to clean up the tent. Drain buckets completely and replenish with tap and some bleach to sanitize. Then drain and replenish with tap and h202 and recirc that for a while. Then I'll re-hang the light, take clones from my 4 girls in veg, and drop them into the tent and start flowering them. I'll post some final pics after I finish all the above and start another journal with a link here.
Come Mon-Tues I'll make dry ice hash and/or cannabutter from all the trimmings along with the 6 1 gal bags of trim I have in the freezer from previous grows. Pics will follow.
Thanks for joining in for the adventure!
I can't wait to see those pics! 
Did you use a scope on that mold or just eyeball it?
Did you use a scope on that mold or just eyeball it?
Congrats on the final weights Bass!
That's pretty damn respectable!
And RFO finding no other mold than that 1 nug.
I was wondering what the state of the carpet is under your tent after those leaks?
Are you planning to move the tent to make sure there is no mold under there and properly dry it?
Would really be a shame to have mold strike again on the next grow.
That's pretty damn respectable!
And RFO finding no other mold than that 1 nug.
I was wondering what the state of the carpet is under your tent after those leaks?
Are you planning to move the tent to make sure there is no mold under there and properly dry it?
Would really be a shame to have mold strike again on the next grow.
Grand Daddy Purp
New Member
Great harvest!
- Thread starter
- #478
Congrats on the final weights Bass!
That's pretty damn respectable!
And RFO finding no other mold than that 1 nug.
I was wondering what the state of the carpet is under your tent after those leaks?
Are you planning to move the tent to make sure there is no mold under there and properly dry it?
Would really be a shame to have mold strike again on the next grow.
Thanks Vick. Yea moving the tent is on the list as well. Just forgot to mention it.
@brewloc, yes to both actually.
@DocDee, yea it's a nice strain. I'm sure I'm going to waste a ton of these meds. Smoking really makes her hack bad, so I have to cook. And she's a diabetic and loves sweets, so if I did brownies or cookies and left them out, well, she'd just eat them not knowing and get totally wasted. I mean could you see someone with a medium level of dementia after 6-7 cookies when 1/2 of one will do? So they'd likely go bad before even finishing a batch if I hid them away too. So I have to experiment with foods. But at least now I have enough that if I decide to make some brownies (I really need a good recipe btw!), I won't care about wasting 1/2 a batch. On days that she seems to not have a cough at all, I do give her 1 small bowl to smoke. The results are really good after the hacking too. I mean she'll cough and hack for only a cpl mins but once she's had 2-3-4 hits her awareness and chatter is so much better it's amazing. It's almost to where I get the same old funny, sarcastic, loving mother back again.
So crazy how much you defoliated it back in the beginning, over all a very interesting grow to sit and take a look at...
- Thread starter
- #480
Ok here's some results pics!
Plant #1 all dry:
End results minus 1.5 oz to a friend in need. 1/2 gallon and quart jars and of course a 420mag nug jar from Member of the Month award.
Trim in 5 gal bag waiting to get processed. That bag is 1/2 full!
I'll have some more pics later.
Plant #1 all dry:
End results minus 1.5 oz to a friend in need. 1/2 gallon and quart jars and of course a 420mag nug jar from Member of the Month award.
Trim in 5 gal bag waiting to get processed. That bag is 1/2 full!
I'll have some more pics later.