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Best bets get some lst going my plants would be huge if I didn't lst them you get more yield and good buds from the light penetration plus autos tend to be shorted anyway YouTube or google the sea of green that's the auto flower version of scrog(screen of green)
Hey bro I know what you mean if I LST them but in turn isn't that marking them grow bigger I want them to grow about 50cm and just bud completely after that. My tent space isn't too big so I don't want it to get to a point where I can't control it because it's so big and I understand that if I trim the plant it looses the buds potency.
Hey bro I know what you mean if I LST them but in turn isn't that marking them grow bigger I want them to grow about 50cm and just bud completely after that. My tent space isn't too big so I don't want it to get to a point where I can't control it because it's so big and I understand that if I trim the plant it looses the buds potency.
Regarding PPM, there are two different conversion ratios that different meter manufacturers use when building the meter. You'll need to research this further as I forgot most of the particulars, but essentially PPM is to be interpreted differently depending on which meter you use. I do know the two popular conversion ratios are 0.5 and 0.7. So meter A may reading 1400 while meter B reads like 900. I personally don't see how this can be so as PPM stands for parts per million, so how can one say 900 while the other say 1400 and some how both are correct? None the less, become familiar with the process of how your meter converts electrical continuity (EC) into PPM.
All's good Robbo, I didn't mean to come off conflicting, but rather wanted to inject more info on the topic of PPM. We all interpret PPM correctly, but the meters themselves might be feeding us different readings. FWIW, most meters use the .5 ratio, but still, there's the .7s out there too.
All's good Robbo, I didn't mean to come off conflicting, but rather wanted to inject more info on the topic of PPM. We all interpret PPM correctly, but the meters themselves might be feeding us different readings. FWIW, most meters use the .5 ratio, but still, there's the .7s out there too.
What is the Connection Between EC and TDS in a Hydroponics System?
TDS meters are really EC meters in disguise. A TDS meter reads the EC of the dissolved salts in the solution and uses a conversion factor to provide a ppm reading. Let’s say the EC is 2,200 microsiemens.
Some dissolved salts with an EC of 2,200 microsiemens will have a ppm of 1,540 (I used a conversion factor of 0.7), but this does not mean the solution you measured has that 1,540 ppm.
A conversion factor is a known value used as a multiplier for converting a quantity expressed in one set of units into an equivalent value expressed in another set of units. The conversion factor depends on what the salt solution is; it could be the correct conversion factor, but that is unlikely.
The relationship of TDS and EC can be approximated by the following equation:
TDS = keEC
In this equation, TDS is expressed in milligrams or liters and EC in microsiemens per centimeter at 77°F. The correction factor ke usually varies between 0.55 and 0.8, and is specific to each salt. When you have a mixture of salts, such as in a feeding solution, a correction factor that will emulate that mixture should be used.
EC meters that read as TDS (ppm) often use a correction factor of 0.5 or 0.7, depending on the meter being used. Because it uses a pre-set conversion factor instead of one specific to the solution, the reading is less accurate than it could be.
When comparing ppm readings with another grower, check to make sure you are both using meters with the same conversion factor. Also mind your temperatures because the temperature of a nutrient solution will cause the EC reading to change. A higher temperature will generally give a higher reading.
In a growing situation, the temperature differences and the effect on the EC is usually not significant enough to matter, and most meters these days are temperature-compensating so the grower does not have to manually make adjustments. As the temperature changes, the meter makes an adjustment in the reading to compensate. The meter manual will state what temperature is used as the base; often 77°F is used, such as with the above example.
Understanding EC, TDS and PPM
Edit - I found a link to this article on HM's website
Yes lst them babies.Best bets get some lst going my plants would be huge if I didn't lst them you get more yield and good buds from the light penetration plus autos tend to be shorted anyway YouTube or google the sea of green that's the auto flower version of scrog(screen of green)
Yes lst them babies.
Yeah its complexes to explain . Just pay attention to them look for signs. Note soon as you see pistils drop them lights bud. Watch for Intensity burn light stress then back off few inches. Keep the top of bud and be ween light around 73-78 I'm finding .Ive grown like 6 vertical nodes of the main stem on just one stem thru lst can't wait to see em fill output there short then the big chunk what usually stood up in the middle ends up horizontal if you can am I correct joe?
Update (Day 14) - haven't done anything apart from giving both plants about a quarter of a litre of water to share just because the top was quite dry didn't give it to much water just enough to wet the top.
My fan leaves are drooping.... what problem is this????