Ask Us Anything: Sharing Knowledge 420 Style

I have a question someone asked me and I told him my educated guess (I informed him I was not sure) but when you add molasses I know your not actually feeding your plant. You are feeding the microbes in the soil which in turn inhibit uptake of nutes to plant but what im not sure of is.....

If you use a chemical nutes like flora series does that actually depend on microbes to deliver the nutes to the plant or do the chemical nutes kill the living microbes in the soil?

anything that occurs in nature cannot be unnatural!
 
cannoisseuras said:
I have a question someone asked me and I told him my educated guess (I informed him I was not sure) but when you add molasses I know your not actually feeding your plant. You are feeding the microbes in the soil which in turn inhibit uptake of nutes to plant but what im not sure of is.....

If you use a chemical nutes like flora series does that actually depend on microbes to deliver the nutes to the plant or do the chemical nutes kill the living microbes in the soil?

anything that occurs in nature cannot be unnatural!
Click to expand...

I don't think I understand your question tbh


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Dbrow said:
I have a ? Which Iam sure has been answered before here some where's lol but anyways, what's up with people using molasses during feeding ?
Click to expand...
Molasses (organic blackstrap, unsulfered) is a great supplement for any time in the growing process. It's got all sorts of micro nutrients that are beneficial to the plant. It's got iron, magnesium, calcium and is loaded with carbohydrates. Although it needs to be broken down by the media and microbes into readily available food.

Askhole420 said:
Simple question Snid:

Whats' your opinion/knowledge on the relationship of (plain or feed) h2o's pH going in compared to the same h2o's runoff pH?
Click to expand...
It's a matter of determining the medium relative Ph levels. For neutral Ph substrates like coco or peat, in that it doesn't hold the nutrients Ph levels while it's wet. You should have basically the same going in and out. If you Ph drops drastically upon runoff compared to going in, that means your soil is acidic and visit versa. It's one way of figuring out your soil ph without the use of a probe. Don't have much time but if that is not clear let me know. :Namaste:

cannoisseuras said:
Is mollassas still beneficial to the soil if you are using chemical nutrients and ferts
Click to expand...
Absolutely,!! :thumb:

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:Cheers
 
Hey Stinky...as for that close to perfect time to harvest. I understand the "amber trichrome" percentage in conjunction the % of pistols "turned" I just wonder
Q.1 how you factor in The perfume content? As I am informed by some that it loses some fragrance during the final stages of maturing . also
Q.-2. Is it a trade off between Fragrance and THC/cbd ? In The final Stages.
Thanks. s


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Ask Stinky Snid Anything - Sharing Knowledge 420Style

Stinky Snid said:
It's a matter of determining the medium relative Ph levels. For neutral Ph substrates like coco or peat, in that it doesn't hold the nutrients Ph levels while it's wet. You should have basically the same going in and out. If you Ph drops drastically upon runoff compared to going in, that means your soil is acidic and visit versa. It's one way of figuring out your soil ph without the use of a probe. Don't have much time but if that is not clear let me know. :Namaste:


Stinky Snid
:green_heart:Cheers
Click to expand...

Im looking for a more precise explanation of whats going on and what precautions/things I can do to correct or balance my pH in soil. Using FFOF.


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Askhole420 said:
Im looking for a more precise explanation of whats going on and what precautions/things I can do to correct or balance my pH in soil. Using FFOF.
Click to expand...
pH-change-image-site.jpg
This diagram represents what's occurring within your substrate. The list of either cations or anions is a good reference when trying to balance your nute solution. I'm not a biochemist so I'm not sure what wording to use to explain this process. But essentially your medium is taking some of the cations and anions and leaving you with the resulting runoff. And like I mentioned previously if your using soil as opposed to coco or peat you'll have greater amounts of both C&A retained in the soil. Not sure if I'm even going in the right direction with this answer, so I leave it at that. Just like you can this ask Snid Anything thread , a search engine is always a good tool to expand your knowledge of specific topics. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:cheers
 
Stephen23 said:
Hey Stinky...as for that close to perfect time to harvest. I understand the "amber trichrome" percentage in conjunction the % of pistols "turned" I just wonder
Q.1 how you factor in The perfume content? As I am informed by some that it loses some fragrance during the final stages of maturing . also
Q.-2. Is it a trade off between Fragrance and THC/cbd ? In The final Stages.
Thanks. s
Click to expand...
Keeping your plants healthy, full of foliage and of good supply of nutrient you'll have both. Terpenes are what causes the aroma, they are released throughout flowering period. Excess sugars/carbohydrates will help things along too, but that's part of the nute regiment. So fr maximum aroma keep her healthy throughout flower and as a result the trichomes and Terpenes will be at their highest. Flavour and smell after harvest has much more to do with drying and curing then it does with their "living" odor. This a good question and I would also like more info on this, if anyone can add to this or correct me please do. Imo there's no trade off between aroma and thc content, they go hand in hand.

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:Cheers
 
Stinky Snid said:
pH-change-image-site.jpg
This diagram represents what's occurring within your substrate. The list of either cations or anions is a good reference when trying to balance your nute solution. I'm not a biochemist so I'm not sure what wording to use to explain this process. But essentially your medium is taking some of the cations and anions and leaving you with the resulting runoff. And like I mentioned previously if your using soil as opposed to coco or peat you'll have greater amounts of both C&A retained in the soil. Not sure if I'm even going in the right direction with this answer, so I leave it at that. Just like you can this ask Snid Anything thread , Google is always a good tool to expand your knowledge of specific topics. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:cheers
Click to expand...

Where'd you find that? I searched but maybe I wasn't hitting the nail on the head with my search criteria. 2 of my girls drain lower pH and 1 higher. That was the 'root' of my question. But this is exactly what i was looking for.

THANKS Snid!!!


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pennywise said:
Yes i need the entire article that graph was in.
Click to expand...

I search engined cations and anions diagram cannabis

Here's an excerpt from the article. Just remember that search engines are vastly more intelligent than I am, it is your best friend for specifics. You can always find what your looking for. But then it defeats the purpose of this thread... So just keep the questions coming :thumb:
manicbotanix website said:
pH – The Power of Hydrogen​

For starters pH is a parameter that measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution by measuring the hydrogen ion concentration in solution. A pH value indicates the relationship between the concentration of free ions H+ (hydrogen) and OH- (hydroxide) present in a solution. Put simply, if a solution is very acidic, there will be lots of active hydrogen ions and hardly any hydroxide ions. If a solution is very alkaline, the opposite is true. As a result pure water has a pH that is neutral at pH 7.0.

The pH scale is a logarithmic scale that typically runs from 1 to 14. Each whole pH value below 7 (the pH of pure water) is ten times more acidic than the higher value and each whole pH value above 7 is ten times less acidic than the one below it.

Now back to understanding the power of hydrogen and some on EC where we have positively charged cations and negatively charged anions in hydroponic solutions. The law of electroneutrality states that in any single ionic solution (e.g. a hydroponic nutrient solution) a sum of negative electrical charges attracts an equal sum of positive electrical charges. Therefore, according to the principle of electroneutrality, the total charge of an aqueous solution must be zero. For this to occur, the number of positive charges contributed by cations must be equal to the number of negative charges contributed by anions.

Based on this, in very simple terms, when a plant removes a positively charged cation from the nutrient reservoir/tank it leaves a negatively charged anion in its place and when a plant removes an anion from the nutrient reservoir/tank it leaves a cation in its place.

pH-change-image-site.jpg


Since every macro and micro element ion in solution has an electrical charge plants can’t just take them, otherwise the electrical equilibrium would be out of balance. What plants do is swap them with equivalent amounts of H+ and OH- ions.

For example:

Ammonium N (NH4+) is swapped with 1xH+ Nitrate N (NO3-) is swapped with 1xOH-
Potassium (K+) is swapped with 1xH+ Calcium (Ca++) is swapped with 2xH+ Magnesium (Mg++) is swapped with 2xH+ Iron (Fe++) is swapped with 2xH+ Manganese (Mn++) is swapped with 2xH+ Zinc (Zn++) is swapped with 2xH+ phosphates (HPO4–) is swapped with 2xOH-
In this way electrical charge equilibrium remains the same.

The ratio in uptake of anions and cations by plants may cause substantial shifts in pH. In general, an excess of cation over anion leads to a decrease in pH, whereas an excess ofanion over cation uptake leads to an increase in pH. That is, when the anions are uptaken in higher concentrations than cations the plant excretes OH- or HCO3- anions to balance the electrical charges inside, which increases the pH value.

For example, if a plant absorbs the negatively charged nitrate nitrogen (NO -) heavily it will start to contribute more OH – 3 than H3O + ions into the solution and the result will be an increase in pH. On the other hand, if the plant absorbs high levels of the positively charged potassium (K+) it will contribute more H3O + than OH – ions and the result will be a decrease in pH.
-
This phenomenom is frequently seen where plants are grown with a full spectrum nutrient solution that contains nitrogen either as ammonium nitrogen (NH +) or nitrate 4
(NO – ) nitrogen. When plants are fed only with NH +, cation uptake generally exceeds 3 4 anion uptake and the pH of the substrate decreases. On the other hand, when the plant is fed only with NO – the uptake of anion to cation ratio is typically higher and as a result 3 the pH of the substrate increases. This becomes important in understanding that a well formulated hydroponic nutrient contains an ideal ratio of ammonium nitrogen to nitrate nitrogen in order to minimize this situation and better maintain pH stability in the root zone and nutrient solution.

As a general rule, daylight photosynthesis (when the plant is taking up high degrees of mineral nutrition) produces hydrogen ions which can cause the nutrient acidity to increase (lowering the pH). When the lights switch off photosynthesis stops and the plants increase their rate of respiration. This coupled with the respiration of microorganisms (the release of CO by microorganisms) uses up the hydrogen ions so the acidity of the solution tends 2 to decrease (pH rises). Additionally, plants are known to release organic acids through their roots (root exudates), reducing pH.

Nutrient Availability and pH

This is an area that tends to be misunderstood and/or oversimplified by many hydroponic industry interests who express optimum pH as 5.5 – 5.8.
In fact, from a scientific perspective, provided that adequate nutrients are available in solution, the acceptable pH range can be expressed as somewhat wider.
That is, the recommended pH for hydroponic growing is specified by many hydroponic nutrient manufacturers/suppliers at 5.5 to 5.8 because overall availability of nutrients is optimized at a slightly acid pH. The availability of Mn, Cu, Zn and especially Fe are reduced at higher pH, and there is a small decrease in availability of P, K, Ca, Mg at lower pH. Reduced availability means reduced nutrient uptake, but not necessarily a nutrient deficiency.

The pH of a solution can influence the availability of the individual ions within that solution. As pH changes one particular nutrient ion may gradually become more insoluble, leaving less of that ion available to act as a nutrient. pH is of little influence over a range, but if it goes too far, especially too high, then problems can result. Therefore, pH where nutrients are present at adequate levels is less critical than many think.

Put simply, there is some tolerance to pH where adequate nutrients are available. Therefore, while pH 5.5 – 5.8 is expressed by some as the ideal there is some tolerance with regards to pH and you will typically find that a pH of between 5.2 and 6.3 will perform equally well in indoor settings where nutrients are supplied at adequate levels.

To keep it simple, if you strive to maintain pH between the ideals of 5.5 – 5.8 this caters more adequately in situations where nutrients may be a limiting factor. This said, pH tolerance is wider than this in situations where adequate nutrient levels are maintained in solution at all times.
Click to expand...

Stinky Snid
:green_heart:Cheers
 
IMG_20170123_112438.jpg

hi snid

be going into week 4 of flower on monday, just wondering can i trim the lower buds & stems whilst in flower or a no go?

will it help my yield if i do or not, this is from week 2 and this week there looking beautiful witht them advanced nutes

thanks snid
 
Here at 7 tonight snid I will show you my new found little baby girl mob boss my first mob boss :)

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