Heavenly Hybrid
Well-Known Member
Yes!! This is exactly what I was trying to say. I need to simplify!I got tired of chasing ghosts so started learning what was really happening. It's made life so much simpler.
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Yes!! This is exactly what I was trying to say. I need to simplify!I got tired of chasing ghosts so started learning what was really happening. It's made life so much simpler.
Yeah the cost of my grows are insanely cheap. My initial costs were probably higher than normal for a single tent but I also have won a lot of equipment now. I used to run one tent and my cost for that whole tent was about $750 (lights, carbon filter, tent, coco, timers...etc.). Since then I haven't really spent any money and could probably run 4 full tents and have a drying tent. I have bought a few new bricks of coco in between. I'd probably need another carbon filter but for the most part two tents is plenty and I've never ran more then that.Jealous man, that’s a HUGE cost saver. This is what I’m working with out of the tap... yummy.
Amen! It is just a weed after all and as well all know, weeds just find a way to grow. We make this process way more difficult then it is and I really don't believe that something like 2 days (your example but there are plenty of others that people do) really make a big difference in the end when you have been growing it for 100+ days. If they didn't turn out great then a day or two of doing a little trick really wasn't the problem.Just my $.02, some science debates on this site lead ppl to a place where they lose site of the forest for the trees. Have fun with it, ignore those “tips and tricks that’ll give you 80% more trichs in the last 2 days” and don’t feel the need to reinvent wheels that need not be reinvented.
Can’t beat that, awesome man.Yeah the cost of my grows are insanely cheap. My initial costs were probably higher than normal for a single tent but I also have won a lot of equipment now. I used to run one tent and my cost for that whole tent was about $750 (lights, carbon filter, tent, coco, timers...etc.). Since then I haven't really spent any money and could probably run 4 full tents and have a drying tent. I have bought a few new bricks of coco in between. I'd probably need another carbon filter but for the most part two tents is plenty and I've never ran more then that.
My variable costs grow to grow are next to nothing. All of the seeds I have are from contests or sponsors and I have been fortunate to grow some stuff from people who breed on this forum. I get water out of the tap. Energy bill really is low month to month compared to others I've seen because of the LED lights. I'd like to try some different nutrients but I get really great quality stuff and good yields using the cheap General Hydroponics. I also have a few nutrients lines from sponsors that I have just sitting in boxes. I don't have to run a heater or A/C ever. I just have been very fortunate in my growing career.
I do plan on splurging and purchasing or building some really nice high end lights as well as trying new nutrients but I'll be doing that research in my downtime of growing here once this Tangerine Dream is done and I pack everything up for a bit.
Awesome write up Ase!!Here is my opinion on the matter. Once I got my way of growing down I still ph'd and ppm'd every single bucket for about a year. I always checked my runoff and I was pretty meticulous about knowing these numbers. After that long I ended up determining that my PH was always the same really. I choose to always water my plants with nutes in them so I don't do the whole load up with one bucket with a heavy feed and then just do water the next couple times. I believe you should water every day with nutes in it for coco. Because I do that generally my ppm doesn't fluctuate that much so neither does my PH. I'd rather feed every day but at lower amounts if that makes sense?
For almost 2 years now I haven't PH'd anything no matter if it's feed going in or runoff coming out. However, I have my way of doing things and my plants seem to be always pretty healthy. I don't even measure what nutrients I am putting into my buckets anymore. Every once and a blue moon I'll pull out my PPM pen and test it and I'm usually right where I want to be. Everything is just an educated guess now and believe it or not you will get there at some point. I haven't used a drop of PH up or down in ages.
Now there is another part to this that I want to recognize. There are many people with differing opinions on the matter but most people that have experience like me (Derby,Penny, etc..) probably could do the same thing I do and have healthy plants. It's like when you do things over and over you can almost get it perfect without measuring (repetitive learning? or something...). I do believe if you are learning then it is good to PPM and PH both the water going in and the runoff. It can tell you a bit about what's going on with the part of the plant you can't see, the roots and how they are functioning. Also if I had any sort of unhealthy issues happen the first thing I'd do is pull out both my pens and do the same thing. I think it gives you a good starting point to try and figure out what is going on. You'll see why shortly but really just the runoff PPM can tell you everything but PH can be a double check.
Higher PPM usually causes lower PH. There may be no science to back up my theory here so take it with a grain of salt but it's worked for me when I was learning and had some issues in my first couple grows so I feel comfortable putting it out there. Let's say I put a big feed into my plant. (1000 PPM and 5.5 PH). If I test the runoff and the PPM is 1300 and PH is 5.0 then that is a red flag for me. That means salts are building up in the coco and are essentially being flushed out. To me it signals a couple of things. The roots aren't uptaking everything that you are putting the plant (could be lockout and leaves would probably show this) OR your coco is getting too dry and nutes are being left in the coco because roots don't have the water to absorb the nutrients up and they turn to salts. You will often see salt build up start to happen on the rims and outsides of the pots (if using airpots). Every different mineral in nutrients absorbs at a different PH level so maybe some of the minerals that absorb in 5.8 PH range are getting absorbed but the ones in the 6.2 range really aren't and being left behind. The leaves will also tell you this though and they will identify the overage/shortage of that mineral and show a different difference or burn because of it.
Generally this does not work as well the other way. If you measure the PPM and PH and it's way lower then what you are putting in then the PH doesn't tend to go really high in numbers (ex. 200 PPM runoff and 9.0 PH). In that example PH probably stays at 5.5 if that is what you are putting in and won't shoot up to 9.0 but you'd think in theory it might because of my example with the higher PPM. So I always recommend to focus on PPM in runoff and not so much PH. If you have a really low PPM then your plant is absorbing everything and probably needs more feed. You can often see this when branches and fan leaf stems stay purple. A small amount of that purple can be genetics but mainly it's underfeeding and often happens in mid flower. Plants really don't show anything worthwhile except overfeeding in veg.
So while I will agree with most of the people that posted that PH is pretty irrelevant in runoff, I do think that it can give some information on what is going on in the bucket. I always recommend for new coco growers to water so you are getting some runoff once the plants are big enough. Doing this too early on kind of just causes you to have saturated coco all the time and can cause algae buildup and make it more difficult for roots to absorb anything. The first few weeks you really have to be careful and only give a bigger amount of water every 4-5 days and then just littler waterings in between. Enough to make the pots feel like they are holding water and not let the coco dry out but not to have any runoff. I error on the side of drier in this stage. Once the plants really take off in veg the roots have filled the pot and they will begin to drink like crazy and then you can just give larger amounts of water every day because by the next day they will be dry-ish again.
The solution always when having problems in coco is to water so you get a lot of runoff like a mini flush. In this water you want to include a feed that is pretty small (if you have been feeding 800ppm cut it to 400) and then give the plant a balanced set of the nutrients. I don't mean 5ML of each of the bottles but rather do some quick math and give them enough of each bottle so the N-P-K is about an equal parts ratio of 1-1-1. You want to give them enough of that water so what is going in (in terms of PH and PPM) is exactly whats going out. It's basically a reset and hopefully if there is any salt buildup or excess minerals of one kind in the coco then it was absorbed in the large amounts of water and flushed out.
With all that being said I just use basic saucers now that my plants sit in and when I have runoff I just let it sit in the saucer and the plant just absorbs it throughout the day. I try to have just the tiniest bit off runoff (like drops) because then I know the water has gotten all the way down to the bottom of the pots. I also will note how much feed that takes to get there and I'll feed the same the next day. If I get no runoff then I probably could feed a little more and the plants are drinking more and more. If I get a bunch of runoff then I know I can do less the next day and it's almost perfect. The one thing I really want to make clear on this topic is that testing runoff anything really doesn't tell you the problem. If your PH or PPM is way off then something else is the issues. People think that if their PH is really low they can really spike up the next PH (with PH up) of the next feed and it solves everything and it really doesn't work like that. If you have a runoff of 4.0 PH and you think it's a good idea to put PH up to 8.0 to hit 6.0 in the pot then you'll be disappointed with the results. Now you are filling the plant with a really high PH and basically flushing the old 4.0 PH out and your plants still won't absorb anything because the PH is way too high. This is why I recommend the whole balanced reset thing.
I hope this didn't cause you more confusion but you asked so you got my opinion. This is a topic with many opinions but this is what has worked for me. I hope it helps.
Correct. I have a 2x4' tent that I dry in and because it is a little smaller, it is easier to control the humidity and airflow. I started using this tent because it was just an extra plus I always wanted to try and pump out grows as fast as possible. I could save a week by using another tent and getting another grow going. This time the tent comes down and won't go back up until I know what my housing situation is. I will likely use the 2x4' tent (after the GSC is done drying) to start my fruit and veggie seedlings for spring.Penny has it right, they are amazing!! You dry in an extra tent, right?
When is the right time to top? Technique of cracking of main stalk to make a knot which is thought to increase plant intake to repair damage to stalk also increasing intake to the plant as a whole. I've tried it a couple times, don't really know if it made a difference. I never had a strain with F*uk in the name Asesino L0L
Sucks about the anxiety (totally get it), do you feel potency is part of the problem these days? For example if that ATF wasn’t grown so surpreme would be more enjoyable for you, or was that the exact same ATF and potency you used to smoke no problem? I somewhat recently tried a Nigerian Haze on the east coast that was homegrown and phenomenal (smoked whole joints in the morning and felt great), then came back to CA and found nige on a menu and grabbed some. The difference was the CA stuff was tested at 32% THC and I absolutely hated it.If you start on page 60 you will see the early stages of my decision making on when to top. I also do not really believe in on purposely damaging your plant that bad to increase intake. You'll lose a chunk of time in veg to it and I think it's really unnecessary. If you don't know if it's made a difference then it probably hasn't.
The technical name for Alaskan Thunderfuck (which is what the Durban Poison was bred with to make Durban Thunderfuck) is Matanuska Thunder Fuck or Matanuska Tundra. I generally don't swear in my posts but it's the name of the strain so I don't edit it out. I'll tell you what though, it's one hell of a strain. Until my recent episodes with panic attacks, it was my go to daytime high. I did smoke a tiny bit of the DTF yesterday and did alright with it so I may see what the ATF does to me today. Since I have gotten a lot of other things straightened out I'm pretty confident it won't send me into a whirlwind like it did a few weeks ago (on a couple occasions). I love sativas so I need to get that part sorted it and I've got plenty of CBDream left if I need to mix the two to take the edge off while enjoying the sativa effect.
Sucks about the anxiety (totally get it), do you feel potency is part of the problem these days? For example if that ATF wasn’t grown so surpreme would be more enjoyable for you, or was that the exact same ATF and potency you used to smoke no problem? I somewhat recently tried a Nigerian Haze on the east coast that was homegrown and phenomenal (smoked whole joints in the morning and felt great), then came back to CA and found nige on a menu and grabbed some. The difference was the CA stuff was tested at 32% THC and I absolutely hated it.