Arduino based room controller

Hey Prarie, how do you find the time to stay up on all this stuff? I can't even get the next lesson posted.....

plus reps

I spend a fair amount of my time researching other interest besides growing. :Namaste:

Thanks for the reps.
 
Nice work so far. Got my stuff comin in the mail. :thumb:

I have a CAP ppm-4. Do you think that your co2 tutorial could be applicable for that tip of unit.

Also, I ordered these relays. 4-Channel Relay Board Do you think they would be good enough to power my inline fans and 600w ballasts?

This is some fun shit.
 
I am going to try this as I have been thinking about making one of these for awhile, but never knew where to get started. The adafruit site doesn't have the LCD display linked for the parts in stock and I was wondering if there are other LCDs that would work?

Here one for sale on EBay. eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

It does have the extra parts though (headers and 10k potentiometer). You can just get those at sparkfun. Otherwise your stuck waiting for adafruit to receive shipment.
 
Nice work so far. Got my stuff comin in the mail. :thumb:

I have a CAP ppm-4. Do you think that your co2 tutorial could be applicable for that tip of unit.

Also, I ordered these relays. 4-Channel Relay Board Do you think they would be good enough to power my inline fans and 600w ballasts?

This is some fun shit.

The relays are rated for 10 amps at 250 volts, should work. You will need to build or buy snubbers for each one. I would use those relays to drive a bigger, more heavy duty relay.....will also be easier to wire up.
 
Most LCDs will work as long as they have the 16 pin header.

I don't know what is inside the CAP controller. The CO2 controller I did the tutorial on is all self contained, runs exhaust fan on humidity (could use temp) and controls the CO2 generator.
 
The relays are rated for 10 amps at 250 volts, should work. You will need to build or buy snubbers for each one. I would use those relays to drive a bigger, more heavy duty relay.....will also be easier to wire up.

Really, interesting. Are you thinking a 20 amp relay. If so would I still need the scubbers on the smaller relays.

I don't know what is inside the CAP controller. The CO2 controller I did the tutorial on is all self contained, runs exhaust fan on humidity (could use temp) and controls the CO2 generator.

Yes, I did know that it is self contained. I was interested in converting my ppm-4 into a self contained unit. I wanted to also add a photo-sensor so it only operated during the lit hours. I can attach pics of the insides if that helps (i already have it apart). But before I convert it into a self contained unit i need to decide between 2 things.

1. Should I convert it into a self contained unit?

2. Should I just use the existing unit as a sensor for my Arduino set up?

Thanks.
 
Those tutorials are not for the latest version 1.0. Like OG said its much easier with a 16 pin...and a backpack. Especially for the novice.

They cover the backpack method too, I would rather just connect it straight to the board. I'm the type that doesn't see the need to add extra components until I need to. Maybe someone else will find it as informative as I did, just sharing.
 
Really, interesting. Are you thinking a 20 amp relay. If so would I still need the scubbers on the smaller relays.



Yes, I did know that it is self contained. I was interested in converting my ppm-4 into a self contained unit. I wanted to also add a photo-sensor so it only operated during the lit hours. I can attach pics of the insides if that helps (i already have it apart). But before I convert it into a self contained unit i need to decide between 2 things.

1. Should I convert it into a self contained unit?

2. Should I just use the existing unit as a sensor for my Arduino set up?

Thanks.

You shouldn't need snubbers on the small relays.

Take some pics of the inside of the CAP, don't have any experience. If it is not set up for communication, will prove difficult to use/modify. If you want to run during the "day", just plut it into a timer, which unit do you have?
 
You shouldn't need snubbers on the small relays.
Cool, thanks OG. What do you think of this? I will get some larger relays for the heavy duty items (lights, inline fan) and put snubbers on those large relays. For the smaller items (circulating fan, pumps, co2 reg) I will keep the smaller relays and put snubbers on those.

I have air cooled lights hooked up directly so when lights kick on the inline fan for the lights also kicks on. Do you think that the ONE smaller relay can be used to trigger two larger relays (one for lights and one for fan)?

Take some pics of the inside of the CAP, don't have any experience. If it is not set up for communication, will prove difficult to use/modify. If you want to run during the "day", just plut it into a timer, which unit do you have?
Ya, I even have an extra timer too. I was just being a tinkerer. If its not modifiable do you think it would be good to use it as a CO2 sensor for my Arduino setup.

Sorry for all the q's. But thanks for your help. I will attach pics. I have a feeling it may only be good to use as a sensor. :thanks:

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Those tutorials are not for the latest version 1.0. Like OG said its much easier with a 16 pin...and a backpack. Especially for the novice.

Very little code on the net is compatible with ver 1.0. If you run into a problem, let me know. I've been porting over my code from .22 to 1.0.
 
I will answer in RED in your text.....

Cool, thanks OG. What do you think of this? I will get some larger relays for the heavy duty items (lights, inline fan) and put snubbers on those large relays. For the smaller items (circulating fan, pumps, co2 reg) I will keep the smaller relays and put snubbers on those.

You will probably need a snubber on any relay with an inductive load (fan, motor, pump, mag ballast) whether you use a big or small relay.

I have air cooled lights hooked up directly so when lights kick on the inline fan for the lights also kicks on. Do you think that the ONE smaller relay can be used to trigger two larger relays (one for lights and one for fan)?

Definitely!

Ya, I even have an extra timer too. I was just being a tinkerer. If its not modifiable do you think it would be good to use it as a CO2 sensor for my Arduino setup.

Is this what the actual sensor looks like?
CO2 Meter - K-30 10,000ppm CO2 Sensor - Sensor product by Senseair

Sorry for all the q's. But thanks for your help. I will attach pics. I have a feeling it may only be good to use as a sensor. :thanks:

Why do you want to reinvent the wheel, you have a controller right there already? Doesn't it do what you want, turn on the CO2 when it gets low? You have me confused now that I see what you have. It is probably possible to reconfigure the setpoints but you will have to hook it up to a computer.....are there any pins on board, probably 6 in a row or a mini USB somewhere?

 
It looks like the sensor communicates to the board thru the 6 (in a row) solder connections below the yellow and red LEDs. The 4 connections at the top are probably a USB terminal. What does the square chip say near the top of the main board? ATMega 324 or something? If you can jerry rig a connection to a computer, you may TRY running the DAS software by CO2meter and see if it recognizes your device, it may, and it may let you reconfigure the setpoints. I know this is a lot of trys, mays, and probablys
 
Yes that sensor looks just like it OG. Doesn't have the same brand name on it though. I am not trying to re set the points. What I was really trying to achieve was not having to use a separate timer to have it shut off during the dark period. I though I could maybe use a cheap photo-sensor to achieve that.

BTW, Got my LCD (from Ebay same as Ada) and the backpack (from ada). Got it soldered together. Looks good.:thumb:

I have not gotten my sensors yet, so stoked. Gonna go check the mail now.:Namaste:
 
You could use a photosensor installed on your line power the CAP, but it would turn it on when lights go off....not what you want. Why don't you just run it off your light timer?
 
You could use a photosensor installed on your line power the CAP, but it would turn it on when lights go off....not what you want. Why don't you just run it off your light timer?
Ya, thats what im gonna do...for now.

Look what I just found in the garage. Its a DJ lighting controller. It has a serial adapter at the base that used to get attached to a switchboard the unit was call Light Copilot from LSC Light Stream Controls. The switchboard part is missing.

I attached it to my Arduino by way of the serial ports and everything works fine. I have 8 outputs each at 10A, total 15A max though.

I took it apart to see what kind of relay system it has. I has MOC3041 chip working in conjunction with triads, but what do I know. Im no EE. It sure was fun googling the chip and seeing how it all works.

Now Ive got to go and do some math to see just how much load (lights, etc.) this can handle. Might not be able to use it for this application, but will work for something.

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The 15 amp limit is imposed by the cordset supplying the whole device. If you could separate the incoming power to 2 different circuits, you could up it to 30 amps, make sure to watch for heat, probably not designed to run at it's limit for long periods of time.
 
Nice work OG...

I just recieved my UNO R3 from ladyada today.. I have been following this post since I found out about it & I purchased everything you mentioned in this thread..
Im a virgin to computer programming but I do know I can do some great work to my grow box to step my game up.
The codes that have been written in this thread, is it possible to copy and paste into my arduino in sequence ?
Please let me know how to get this thing going in my box... I couldn't wait to recieve this setup from adafruit, now I cant wait to get it programmed and running in my cab...
To be able to look at a LCD and see my ladyz threw a ps3 eyetoy cam pan/tilt style via IPhone would be Super Sick & I know with the help of you and the thread, it's possible...

Thanks in advance..
 
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