Any ideas what's wrong here?

IMHO repotting them now will only set you back even further.... just let them dry out but as mentioned tilting the pots to steep angle for 24 hours is the fastest way to reset the water table to lower level...

I‘ve even tried using shop vac to suck water out but serious problem there will be soil compaction / less oxygen. Tilting the bucket works magic since it will pee out a lot of water right away but it’s still a slow process since they were just flushed
5KG Coco Coir Australia For Sale Online | Mr Stacky this any good quality brother?
 
I'll have a look now
Personally, I've had problems with those compressed blocks not breaking down properly
Can you not order Canna Coco Pro+ from Amazon, it's about £10-15 for 50L

Screenshot_20210609-010551_Google.jpg
 
Yep - one dose at the start of flowering and then another in week three if you want (I do) then follow up with CalMag/Humic to help absorption/transportation of the nutes
Wouldn't add any more after that, it's not necessary or beneficial
 
Yep - one dose at the start of flowering and then another in week three if you want (I do) then follow up with CalMag/Humic to help absorption/transportation of the nutes
Wouldn't add any more after that, it's not necessary or beneficial
Do u use calmag every water? Or just once or twice?
 
Do u use calmag every water? Or just once or twice?
Depends how fast she's growing with your lights etc, but most likely every watering, particularly if you have soft/RO water
 
Nar I'll be using tap water. Doesn't cana coco a+b have any calmag in it ?
Yes it does, but CalMag is formulated to deliver a more pure boost and it sure works
 
Yes it does, but CalMag is formulated to deliver a more pure boost and it sure works
Cool so just the recommended dose on the bottle with every water then. So none of the cana rhitozime or what ever it is for pathogens or any of those other products are necessary? Just cal mag+ pk13/14 and a+b?
 
Cool so just the recommended dose on the bottle with every water then. So none of the cana rhitozime or what ever it is for pathogens or any of those other products are necessary? Just cal mag+ pk13/14 and a+b?
As with all nute brands, you can add rhizo root tonics/boosts etc if you want but no, not necessary (though I seem to end up with the full range whatever brand I'm using!)
Happy growings my friend
 
But I've only just flushed them and they've been like this for a couple of weeks now . They have all the symptoms of nitrogen toxicity
In soil dont flush - that's the first thing and why use N=27 for cannabis? I grow in soil and dont really amend with anything N just compost and EWC which are very light in N.

Flushing wont remove what you think its removing in soil.

Reason is CEC - Cation exchange capacity of the soil. Thats how we know how much nutrients the soil can hold onto chemically and its usually a lot unless you're in sand which you are not.

So no flusing... water and let them grow for a bit be patient they dont look bad to me.

Maybe over-thinking. Also that probe you're using is not accurate.

Be more accurate toasting hot dogs on a fire. About all its good for really.

PH is a logorythmic scale so a little off is WAY off and a tool that is way off to begin with aint worth the time or effort. Use results with a grain of salt.

I actually bought one of those one time. I used it once my soil pH reading was like 10pH with that probe. My soil tested at a lab was 6.5pH and perfect.
 
In soil dont flush - that's the first thing and why use N=27 for cannabis? I grow in soil and dont really amend with anything N just compost and EWC which are very light in N.

Flushing wont remove what you think its removing in soil.

Reason is CEC - Cation exchange capacity of the soil. Thats how we know how much nutrients the soil can hold onto chemically and its usually a lot unless you're in sand which you are not.

So no flusing... water and let them grow for a bit be patient they dont look bad to me.

Maybe over-thinking. Also that probe you're using is not accurate.

Be more accurate toasting hot dogs on a fire. About all its good for really.

PH is a logorythmic scale so a little off is WAY off and a tool that is way off to begin with aint worth the time or effort. Use results with a grain of salt.

I actually bought one of those one time. I used it once my soil pH reading was like 10pH with that probe. My soil tested at a lab was 6.5pH and perfect.
Also I have an issue with humidity . It's winter here and my temps are between 21 and 27 . The humidity seems to rise at night when it's coldest and it gets to around 77% . They have started flowering and I'm worried about moulds etc. I'm running a carbon filter and sucking ample amount of fresh air into the tent 24/7 . Should I cover up most of the vents in an attempt to decrease the cool air coming in and warm up the grow room to lower it? I don't have a dehumidifier or heaters or anything for temp or humidity control
 
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