ConstantGreen
New Member
Relax, you didn't break anything. That's how they are, at least mine were. The rings that hold the lenses also pin the reflector cups in place. Just place the cup back in the slot and screw the ring down.
Amare Technologies: Questions, Answers & Results
- Thread starter Amare Technology
- Start date
Relax, you didn't break anything. That's how they are, at least mine were. The rings that hold the lenses also pin the reflector cups in place. Just place the cup back in the slot and screw the ring down.
Well, see, that's the thing. I thought of that earlier today. So I gently unscrewed the last two trim rings, lowered them - with those two lenses sitting in the trim rings... And screwed one back in place without its lens. And when I looked up, I thought, "That doesn't help - the aluminum(?) cup is NOT sitting on the trim ring. And it appears to have a smaller OD than the trim ring's ID." Just in case I was imagining things, I went to where I have (carefully) stored the lenses, trim rings, and the reflector(?) cup that came out. I tried to place the cup in one of the trim rings - but it really is too small in diameter to be held in place by the trim ring.
On examination of the lenses, they have a lip which makes their OD larger, and that is what the trim rings are sized to fit (and how they hold the lenses in place).
So now I have an LED panel which only has reflector cups around five of its six COBs.
Do you have the newer version - the SE450+UVB - by chance? I suppose there might have been a redesign of this stuff for the newer panel.
This is very distressing to me because: I have just turned on the COB switch, as my plants are still young but I'm guessing that they are old enough for the full output of the panel - without the lenses in place (with them in place, the light would either be too concentrated or I'd have to do some grow room redesigning in order to significantly raise the panel); I am rather concerned that one or more of the remaining five reflector cups will fall out at some point; and I have handled babies with less care than I have used in handling this LED panel, so I cannot think that I caused the issue.
BtW, are your reflector cups shiny? Or dull and kind of streaked (circular streaks, going around like rings almost)? Mine are the latter.
I will try to borrow my friend's DSLR tomorrow evening and take/post some pictures.
jaymu86
New Member
All mine on my 350 and 450 comes out they sit on the black ring that come out tap the others and I bet they come rite out
These aren't like that. I think my panel might be an early model (might even be a hand-built prototype).
These reflector cups are way to small (OD) to be held up by the rings that hold the glass lenses in place. I can drop one right through one of the rings, without it even touching anywhere. When I saw that one was no longer attached - well, after I calmed down a bit... - I touched one of the others. Then I touched the rest of them. Then I flicked them. Then I kind of tugged on a few of them. The other five seem to be permanently attached. I'm still not sure how, though. There does not appear to be a glue line where the one used to be.
The design must have been changed at some point, I guess. I suppose they were made larger in OD or something. Maybe the trim rings were changed to have a smaller ID, but I assume the former instead of the latter. IDK. It was pretty annoying until I managed to forget all about it. But now I have been reminded...
These reflector cups are way to small (OD) to be held up by the rings that hold the glass lenses in place. I can drop one right through one of the rings, without it even touching anywhere. When I saw that one was no longer attached - well, after I calmed down a bit... - I touched one of the others. Then I touched the rest of them. Then I flicked them. Then I kind of tugged on a few of them. The other five seem to be permanently attached. I'm still not sure how, though. There does not appear to be a glue line where the one used to be.
The design must have been changed at some point, I guess. I suppose they were made larger in OD or something. Maybe the trim rings were changed to have a smaller ID, but I assume the former instead of the latter. IDK. It was pretty annoying until I managed to forget all about it. But now I have been reminded...
jaymu86
New Member
Hi everybody
I come back here
because I always see no avancment amare on the site on the new model ...
more more I see of position here or elsewhere I always ask myself many questions about the product ...
when I see THE DIY surment done better with more distribution as the canopy 10 growmau5
mesh cover because more CXB and consumes just 200 watts more than the solar eclipse 450
but in the end it 4 cxb over which the distribution is better ...
I doubt on the cover of SE450 in a 4 X 4 tent
then it would 16cxb for optimal coverage ...
I see baucoup defende the brand that looks good, but outside many ca consomation for anything I think
far exceeds g / w in DIY but not under amare ....
someone can answer all here ????
thank you
I come back here
because I always see no avancment amare on the site on the new model ...
more more I see of position here or elsewhere I always ask myself many questions about the product ...
when I see THE DIY surment done better with more distribution as the canopy 10 growmau5
mesh cover because more CXB and consumes just 200 watts more than the solar eclipse 450
but in the end it 4 cxb over which the distribution is better ...
I doubt on the cover of SE450 in a 4 X 4 tent
then it would 16cxb for optimal coverage ...
I see baucoup defende the brand that looks good, but outside many ca consomation for anything I think
far exceeds g / w in DIY but not under amare ....
someone can answer all here ????
thank you
- Thread starter
- #207
Amare Technology
New Member
Hello Amare family I've finally made it in lol!
and I have a thread going so I'll be posting my current grow I'm a few weeks in from seed
the emerald alley is up and runnin
Welcome to the show brother! Just in time everything is gonna get ready to take off around here now! Lets see some updated shots of that garden!!
With all of our panels we offer the ability to "tune" your plants growth to best combat your specific needs. It is possible to run full COBs and Monos (panel at full blast) for Seedlings/Clones all the way through Flower! Just be sure for new clones or seedlings to keep the lights at 32"-36" (without lenses) 42"-46" (with lenses) and you can run them with both switches. Just acclimate them by lowering the light 3"-4" every 3-4 days and noting the differences in plant growth. Once you note slight bleaching, lift the light back up and monitor the growth again. Eventually you will learn the sweet spots for each of your cultivars and will see as they adapt over time and begin to handle more and more intensities.
The idea behind running them with only the Monos is too allow the spectral output of the light to lean more towards the blue end and this will promote shorter inter-node spacing. Want them to really take off with growth and grow as fast as they possibly can, run both switches on during Veg (Thats what i do). If you want more short, stout, bushy plants that take a little longer to grow but your having difficulties with canopy management and training techniques, or just want the efficiency from the less electricity consumption. Go ahead and use just the monos only and it will help tremendously and is extremely efficient! I also run the UV/B constantly for many reasons but that has to do more with pest prevention and oil production/secretion. Most just run it once the plant shifts to Flower and you can do this with no major noted differences form running it full time. Just be sure that anytime you are closer than 18" away from it you shut it off while working on your plants.
With the lenses, it depends on what your'e looking to achieve with the light. If you've got a couple plants in a 4x4 space and they are all different cultivars so the canopy height is fluctuating. You can use the lenses and it will throw the light much further into the canopy for the plants at further distances away from the light. If you notice too much growth too rapidly or notice any bleaching and you cant raise the light any longer than go ahead and remove the lenses and lower the light.
Vise Versa, if you've got an even canopy, go ahead and just use the light without the lenses and lower it to the recommended heights.
Hope this answers your question and sorry for such a late reply. Been busy busy around here lots to come here soon!! Hope all has been well for you and yours, much respect and many blessings everyone!!
- Thread starter
- #208
Amare Technology
New Member
Re: Amare Technologies: Questions, Answers & Results
Our new website is now live! Feel free to stop by and check out all the new panels such as the SolarPro3, SolarPro4, SolarPro9, and the SolarPro9 IC at:
Amare Technology | LED Light Panels SolarSPEC SolarPRO Hydroponics
Already utilizing our technology? Please stop by our testimonials page and submit an honest review of your experience with our products and service thus far at:
Amare Technology | LED Light Panels SolarSPEC SolarPRO Hydroponics
Our new website is now live! Feel free to stop by and check out all the new panels such as the SolarPro3, SolarPro4, SolarPro9, and the SolarPro9 IC at:
Amare Technology | LED Light Panels SolarSPEC SolarPRO Hydroponics
Already utilizing our technology? Please stop by our testimonials page and submit an honest review of your experience with our products and service thus far at:
Amare Technology | LED Light Panels SolarSPEC SolarPRO Hydroponics
Beautiful purple!
overlord
Well-Known Member
Re: Amare Technologies: Questions, Answers & Results
It is good to see your website up again. I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind me asking.
I have 2 se450, and found they do create a significant amount of heat in my grow area.
I am also looking at the pro 900 series, and would probably lean towards the model with inline cooling.
Are there cooling vents on both sides of the unit? In other words can I daisy chain my duct work/ fans from light to light?
There is around a $900 cost difference from the 450 to the 900 and double the watts used with only a 9 sq ft increase in growing area; according to your stats.
I would like to know what makes the 900 series that much more special to justify the cost difference and doubled wattage usage for an increase of only 9 sq ft?
Thanks
It is good to see your website up again. I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind me asking.
I have 2 se450, and found they do create a significant amount of heat in my grow area.
I am also looking at the pro 900 series, and would probably lean towards the model with inline cooling.
Are there cooling vents on both sides of the unit? In other words can I daisy chain my duct work/ fans from light to light?
There is around a $900 cost difference from the 450 to the 900 and double the watts used with only a 9 sq ft increase in growing area; according to your stats.
I would like to know what makes the 900 series that much more special to justify the cost difference and doubled wattage usage for an increase of only 9 sq ft?
Thanks
overlord
Well-Known Member
One other thing, what size are the inline cooling ducts? 6"? 8"?
Crown royale 2 weeks from harvest under the SE450 UVB
- Thread starter
- #213
Amare Technology
New Member
Re: Amare Technologies: Questions, Answers & Results
Thank you, we apologize for it taking so long! No no, please feel free to ask away! Fact is watt for watt, LED's put out the same amount of heat (~3.41btu per watt) regardless of light, i.e. LED, HID, LEC etc.. The difference in overall heat, is the secondary heat source of the HID fireball bulb. If the environmental parameters are all in check LED's operate on average ~15F degrees over ambient temps. Again, this is depending on how efficient your cooling is. Such as the heat-sinks, fans, vents, etc..
To answer your question:
(A): Yes, each side of the panel features x4 of the same high-CFM ball-bearing fans which come with the other units that assist in air flow through the panel. They are removable so you can run your inline ducting and fans. Each side has the ability to attach the dual 5.5" ducting ports for a daisy chain air flow capability. We are currently working on finding a manufacturer that can make the 6" & 8" duct ports, for now it comes with the 5.5".
(B): The SolarEclipse450 is among our most efficient lights when looking to cover a 4x4 space. Your looking to achieve around 1200umol at canopy level to ensure maximum growth all the way through your canopy and down into your bottom flower sites. This is the recommended light intensity level for plants ranging from 1-4ft in height. So, the COB's and Mono's used in the SE-450 are x6 CXB-3070's and x60 CREE XP-G3 & XP-E2 Mono's and pulls 500w from the wall giving you a solid 4x4 grow space with your light @21" from the canopy.
The SolarPro-900 is designed for high bay applications and large scale warehouse growers looking to achieve the maximum amount of light output for the wattage consumption. The SolarPro900 is utilizing x4 CREE CXB-3590's which are currently the best COB's on the market and definitely deliver the most bang for their buck. Capable of being run safely at 150w, we run them each at 125w. There is also 105 XP-G3 & XP-E2 CREE chips and 20 CREE XML2's. This added wattage is used to project a much higher intensity rating into the canopy. As said above it is used for high bay applications exactly like how large scale warehouses hang their Gavita's. So the extra wattage consumption is needed to get the needed intensity that far into the canopy or when growing plants larger than 5ft.
Hope this answers your questions! Hope all is well for you and yours this holiday season! Many blessings!
Thank you, we apologize for it taking so long! No no, please feel free to ask away! Fact is watt for watt, LED's put out the same amount of heat (~3.41btu per watt) regardless of light, i.e. LED, HID, LEC etc.. The difference in overall heat, is the secondary heat source of the HID fireball bulb. If the environmental parameters are all in check LED's operate on average ~15F degrees over ambient temps. Again, this is depending on how efficient your cooling is. Such as the heat-sinks, fans, vents, etc..
To answer your question:
(A): Yes, each side of the panel features x4 of the same high-CFM ball-bearing fans which come with the other units that assist in air flow through the panel. They are removable so you can run your inline ducting and fans. Each side has the ability to attach the dual 5.5" ducting ports for a daisy chain air flow capability. We are currently working on finding a manufacturer that can make the 6" & 8" duct ports, for now it comes with the 5.5".
(B): The SolarEclipse450 is among our most efficient lights when looking to cover a 4x4 space. Your looking to achieve around 1200umol at canopy level to ensure maximum growth all the way through your canopy and down into your bottom flower sites. This is the recommended light intensity level for plants ranging from 1-4ft in height. So, the COB's and Mono's used in the SE-450 are x6 CXB-3070's and x60 CREE XP-G3 & XP-E2 Mono's and pulls 500w from the wall giving you a solid 4x4 grow space with your light @21" from the canopy.
The SolarPro-900 is designed for high bay applications and large scale warehouse growers looking to achieve the maximum amount of light output for the wattage consumption. The SolarPro900 is utilizing x4 CREE CXB-3590's which are currently the best COB's on the market and definitely deliver the most bang for their buck. Capable of being run safely at 150w, we run them each at 125w. There is also 105 XP-G3 & XP-E2 CREE chips and 20 CREE XML2's. This added wattage is used to project a much higher intensity rating into the canopy. As said above it is used for high bay applications exactly like how large scale warehouses hang their Gavita's. So the extra wattage consumption is needed to get the needed intensity that far into the canopy or when growing plants larger than 5ft.
Hope this answers your questions! Hope all is well for you and yours this holiday season! Many blessings!
- Thread starter
- #214
Amare Technology
New Member
Looking mighty fine!!! 
Thank you for sharing!! 
Thank you for sharing!!
Quick question, I'm going to be putting our SE450 on a mover in the coming weeks. Do you think 3' above the canopy with lenses would work? Don't recall how high above canopy would work with the lenses on. Plus being on a mover I would think they could handle the short bursts of intensity. Thoughts?
overlord
Well-Known Member
Thank you Bro Fern.
I figured there was more to the 900, but had to ask what and why. I have no complaints regarding my two 450's, but wanted to know what justified the cost vs watt increase.
I figured there was more to the 900, but had to ask what and why. I have no complaints regarding my two 450's, but wanted to know what justified the cost vs watt increase.
jaymu86
New Member
Hey over Lord here is a shot of my 4x4 when I'm slacking with the 450 I wanted that 900 bad tho but brother fern talked me out of it as I would have burned my plants upThank you Bro Fern.
I figured there was more to the 900, but had to ask what and why. I have no complaints regarding my two 450's, but wanted to know what justified the cost vs watt increase.
Sent from my Alcatel_6055U using 420
overlord
Well-Known Member
Hey over Lord here is a shot of my 4x4 when I'm slacking with the 450 I wanted that 900 bad tho but brother fern talked me out of it as I would have burned my plants up
Sent from my Alcatel_6055U using 420
I see plants of varied heights. Do you keep your 450 raised all the way? I am thinking about purchasing a 4x4 tent and run only one light for a while. I would like to eventually have a second mother/clone/veg tent and do perpetual harvest of various strains.
The gorilla tent with extension is 7'11" and if I kept the light raised to the top would it suffice for both the 4 ft tall sativa finishing off, while the smaller indica is introduced to the flowering tent? Bro. Fern feel free to chime in..
EDIT:
I should add that under this scenario (if possible) should the lenses be on or off?
jaymu86
New Member
I see plants of varied heights. Do you keep your 450 raised all the way? I am thinking about purchasing a 4x4 tent and run only one light for a while. I would like to eventually have a second mother/clone/veg tent and do perpetual harvest of various strains.
The gorilla tent with extension is 7'11" and if I kept the light raised to the top would it suffice for both the 4 ft tall sativa finishing off, while the smaller indica is introduced to the flowering tent? Bro. Fern feel free to chime in..
EDIT:
I should add that under this scenario (if possible) should the lenses be on or off?
Well mine stays atleast 28" above the tallest cause I keep my lens on and run a perpetual tent so helps new babies get used to light without burning them. My tallest plants are atleast 4' so hell yeah it would this is my tallest plants and look at these buds it's more on sativa side she got in flower at 2'
Sent from my Alcatel_6055U using 420
overlord
Well-Known Member
I figured it might, from my experience with my last grow.
You move your light to stay at least 28" above tallest plant with lenses on, correct?
I wonder if with lenses on, could a person just keep it raised to the top. That would be convenient, instead of trying to avoid plants to raise a light.
I see some of those bigger grows with mega multiple daisy chained HID or LED's, and they seem to be stationary.
You move your light to stay at least 28" above tallest plant with lenses on, correct?
I wonder if with lenses on, could a person just keep it raised to the top. That would be convenient, instead of trying to avoid plants to raise a light.
I see some of those bigger grows with mega multiple daisy chained HID or LED's, and they seem to be stationary.