Almost 40's Sun Set Sarah's 1st Grow Ever!

Yes this is it lol
 
Off to a good start, Sarah! :welldone:
 

Almost 40's Sun Set Sarah's 1st Grow Ever!

Soil...... Michigan water Only PH..... 6.3 pH Ideal H20 Water Filtration Hose... Planet Earth Compost Tea Blend / Liquid Concentrate 60 ml to a Gallon That is all I am giving the Ladies In Veg... Now I flipped my clones to 12/12 just so I could play with them After some LST & Topping... I am...
www.420magazine.com

Highlight and copy the the top line of this post. Edit: Well that's not gonna work so you'll need to copy the link from the address bar.

Go to the top of the page and look for your screen name. Right next to todays date and before your inbox. Click on your name and the 3rd link down says "Signature," in black. Click on that.

You will be redirected to your signature and it will be blank. Type up what you want people to see. Mine is below I've got a few things to read. Once you've typed it up then go to the top of the page and click the chain link icon. Then past the link you copied into that space and save. Done.

Red Solo Cup... I love you so. Clear one's are good for watching root development but you'll want to sleeve them for sure. You can get Algae growing. No bueno. I use clear for seedlings and clones. Clear is also good for doming the clones.
 
SunsetSarah said:
tak]led from

Tales from the crypt was my stuff !!!
Click to expand...
F01%2Ftales-from-the-crypt-logo-and-keeper-500x281.jpg
 
My room is apx 8 + 13... It
Agemon said:

Almost 40's Sun Set Sarah's 1st Grow Ever!

Soil...... Michigan water Only PH..... 6.3 pH Ideal H20 Water Filtration Hose... Planet Earth Compost Tea Blend / Liquid Concentrate 60 ml to a Gallon That is all I am giving the Ladies In Veg... Now I flipped my clones to 12/12 just so I could play with them After some LST & Topping... I am...
www.420magazine.com

Highlight and copy the the top line of this post. Edit: Well that's not gonna work so you'll need to copy the link from the address bar.

Go to the top of the page and look for your screen name. Right next to todays date and before your inbox. Click on your name and the 3rd link down says "Signature," in black. Click on that.

You will be redirected to your signature and it will be blank. Type up what you want people to see. Mine is below I've got a few things to read. Once you've typed it up then go to the top of the page and click the chain link icon. Then past the link you copied into that space and save. Done.

Red Solo Cup... I love you so. Clear one's are good for watching root development but you'll want to sleeve them for sure. You can get Algae growing. No bueno. I use clear for seedlings and clones. Clear is also good for doming the clones.
Click to expand...


I just saw this...
 
3-3-19 12 pm
Ml/GL "Mother Earth" Sugar Load
60 Ml/GL" Planet Earth" Tea
2 ML/Lt "Advanced Nutrients" Misted Them...
6.2 H2o.....
I water them by hand I use a 60 ml Injector... I dont know if I am giving them the right amount of water.. 8 Cups they are in a 7 gl bag..
The 3 GL I only give 4 1/2 Cups...
Its is 79*F 52% RH in the Flower room..
I only watered 1 time today at 6.2 I am going back to 6.5... From here on out.
I have some seeds that are about to pop..
1 popped last night And it POPPED right out of its shell... Is that Ok ? I planted it in Great lakes Water Only....." Soil" And she is doing great.... Hope I stay the right track
 

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SunsetSarah said:
I only watered 1 time today at 6.2 I am going back to 6.5... From here on out.
Click to expand...
Don't just automatically believe every little thing that you read. Mathematically, it can be seen that the optimum pH for maximum uptake of all nutrients is 6.3 pH. Those who always pH to the middle of the range also tend to block out a couple of the trace elements later on in bloom; a molybdenum deficiency late in flower a typical result, especially in some fast soils.
What do I mean about fast soils? Soils, such as the Fox Farm products that are all double buffered so as to help balance out incoming pH outside of either end of the soil. A fast soil buffered to 6.7 pH (as most of them are) is going to start reacting with your incoming liquids adjusted to 6.5 or as I suggest, 6.3. This is called upward drift, and when you come in at 6.5, the buffers in your soil start to work and fairly rapidly the pH of your container of soil/water solution will begin to rise. Since the usable range in soil is 6.2-6.8, you don't have too far to rise before you drift out of the range at the upper end. However much time this takes, that is the amount of time that your nutes were available to the plant.
If you come in however at 6.3 pH, the same process happens, it just takes longer to get you drifted up out of the range. Your plants end up getting more nutrients that way, and you also don't run the risk of not picking up the heavy metals at the bottom of the range later in flower when they are needed. We used to advise everyone everywhere to adjust pH to 6.3, but on that old chart just provided, you can see that it is the popular trend these days to advise everyone to adjust to 6.5, the middle of the scale, and I am not a fan of this advice.
 
I never ph’d my water, being in organic soil, but after having some issues early in my current grow I made some adjustments.

Including lowering my out of tap water, which sat at 7.4 to 8.1, down to 6.3 - 6.5, and while I can’t say for sure it’s the reason for the turn around. I have to assume it’s a significant part of it. I had also drilled some holes into my containers and started feeding cal mag. So the ph was one of many tweaks. Knowing I shouldn’t tweak so many things at once lol.

I will continue to ph my water as often as possible now.
 
Emilya said:
Don't just automatically believe every little thing that you read. Mathematically, it can be seen that the optimum pH for maximum uptake of all nutrients is 6.3 pH. Those who always pH to the middle of the range also tend to block out a couple of the trace elements later on in bloom; a molybdenum deficiency late in flower a typical result, especially in some fast soils.
What do I mean about fast soils? Soils, such as the Fox Farm products that are all double buffered so as to help balance out incoming pH outside of either end of the soil. A fast soil buffered to 6.7 pH (as most of them are) is going to start reacting with your incoming liquids adjusted to 6.5 or as I suggest, 6.3. This is called upward drift, and when you come in at 6.5, the buffers in your soil start to work and fairly rapidly the pH of your container of soil/water solution will begin to rise. Since the usable range in soil is 6.2-6.8, you don't have too far to rise before you drift out of the range at the upper end. However much time this takes, that is the amount of time that your nutes were available to the plant.
If you come in however at 6.3 pH, the same process happens, it just takes longer to get you drifted up out of the range. Your plants end up getting more nutrients that way, and you also don't run the risk of not picking up the heavy metals at the bottom of the range later in flower when they are needed. We used to advise everyone everywhere to adjust pH to 6.3, and you can even see it on that old chart just provided to you. It seems however that it is the popular trend these days to advise everyone to adjust to 6.5, the middle of the scale, and I am not a fan of this advice.


6.3 was their Ph all feedings untill yesterday Morning... I am blown away with the detailed advice you have given. I can so understand what you just said.... I have a learning disabililty The way I learn is by reading ;OUT LOUD' And doing it !! So bottom line is 6.5 Where I was all along Why I thought to lower I have No Idea... My Bad.... Thank you So Much !!
Click to expand...
 
UrbanAchiever said:
I never ph’d my water, being in organic soil, but after having some issues early in my current grow I made some adjustments.

Including lowering my out of tap water, which sat at 7.4 to 8.1, down to 6.3 - 6.5, and while I can’t say for sure it’s the reason for the turn around. I have to assume it’s a significant part of it. I had also drilled some holes into my containers and started feeding cal mag. So the ph was one of many tweaks. Knowing I shouldn’t tweak so many things at once lol.

I will continue to ph my water as often as possible now.
Click to expand...
My first week I did not Ph.. They were slow.. Them I bought The BlueLab Duel PH Reader.. A Bluelab Contuctivity Pen..
 
SunsetSarah said:
My first week I did not Ph.. They were slow.. Them I bought The BlueLab Duel PH Reader.. A Bluelab Contuctivity Pen..
Click to expand...
A hose filtration iIdeal H2o Catalyitiv Carbon Filter... They Ladies really started to grow.. So I believe in 6.5 All the way... Bad PH gave me red Steams.. then when I fixed it.. They were green again you can see the bad week of watering in the steam.. From my Mistake anyway
 

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