- Thread starter
- #381
I'd add the OC+ later, personally.
All Organic High Brix
- Thread starter Doc Bud
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I'd add the OC+ later, personally.
I run a wick system so if I top dressed I would only be wetting the prills during my weekly tea feed. I guess I could dig em in but I hate doing that when the pot is full of roots. I wish I could play with the plants every day but I just don't have the time hence the wick system.
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- #383
I think you might be OK with the top dressing. I water weekly with most of my large pots.
Hey Doc, wanted to let you know I voted you in for Member of the Month!!! Your bringing of the High Brix method to the 420 magazine is amazing and I am happy to be a student!!!
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- #385
Thanks! I won that contest once before. Do they let you win twice? (not that I think I'll win)
chronicgrower
New Member
Excuse me people, I'm not big on nutes. Started with Fox Farms and been using until I started going organic. What is OC+ and is it organic.
Keep it Growing Chronicly !!
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- #387
Excuse me people, I'm not big on nutes. Started with Fox Farms and been using until I started going organic. What is OC+ and is it organic.
Keep it Growing Chronicly !!
Osmocote Plus is a controlled release complete fertilizer, NPK, micro's etc.
It works very well for new or intermediate growers who desire high quality crops with minimal effort. OC+ is what i always tell new growers to use. I still use it and will probably incorporate it in to my High Brix adventures at some point.
It's not organic.
chronicgrower
New Member
If it's not organic, won't it kill the living organisms that you're trying to maintain and increase?
Keep it Growing Chronicly !!
- Thread starter
- #389
If it's not organic, won't it kill the living organisms that you're trying to maintain and increase?
Keep it Growing Chronicly !!
Not necessarily. Some salts are actually beneficial in small doses. OC+ keeps the PPMs real low. A small dose of it shouldn't have much effect on the soil biology, especially if reinforcements arrive frequently.
There is a product from Scott's (makes OC+) in australia that combines it with organic ferts. I don't see it as being a problem!
Now, if you add something like Koolbloom, Hammerhead or Triple Phos....you're gonna kill 'em all.
Doc
this is my Critical+ at 7wks flwr. OC+, instant tea once a week.
All the plants about 50% milky and have more amber at this stage than any other grow, not a lot but you don't have to strain the eyes with a scope to find them. Could it be the brix affecting that also?
WW test bud 7 wks
this is my Critical+ at 7wks flwr. OC+, instant tea once a week.
All the plants about 50% milky and have more amber at this stage than any other grow, not a lot but you don't have to strain the eyes with a scope to find them. Could it be the brix affecting that also?
WW test bud 7 wks
- Thread starter
- #391
Doc
this is my Critical+ at 7wks flwr. OC+, instant tea once a week.
All the plants about 50% milky and have more amber at this stage than any other grow, not a lot but you don't have to strain the eyes with a scope to find them. Could it be the brix affecting that also?
WW test bud 7 wks
those are just fantastic buds! Yes, higher brix means more color in the resin. They also tend to grow faster. Keep up the good work!
MSquared
Well-Known Member
Doc, you are truly to modest. You certainly deserve the honor this time wether you have won it before or not!
If not for you even mentioning the high brix method I know that at least 4 of us have implemented into our gardens and growing styles.Thank you so much for contribution you certainly deserve the honors.
I now have all my plants in a high brix soil even my 5 mamoths in flower are in fully high brix soil as well. My plants have never looked better and it is all thanks to you! I know it is still in the testing phases, but so far my grow from seedlings to flower have been in the soil that I documented in my journal and they have never been healthier.
- Thread starter
- #393
Doc, you are truly to modest. You certainly deserve the honor this time wether you have won it before or not!
Thank you so much for contribution you certainly deserve the honors.
I now have all my plants in a high brix soil even my 5 mamoths in flower are in fully high brix soil as well. My plants have never looked better and it is all thanks to you! I know it is still in the testing phases, but so far my grow from seedlings to flower have been in the soil that I documented in my journal and they have never been healthier.
thanks bro! If I can help you or anyone else grow better MJ, I've done a service to mankind. Sounds a bit silly, bit it's true!
High quality weed is safe weed. It's medicinal value goes up. It tastes better, it keeps longer, etc.
HIgh Brix weed has a more complex effect, smoother....it's hard to describe, but you'll see what I'm talking about when you harvest yours.
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- #394
I've had a couple people ask me about topping, and saw a few posts on the Uncle Ben Topping Technique. So I thought I'd include some pics of how my plants look after the UBT treatment.
It works as advertised.
There are also some random bud shots here and there. I figure about a month more. Some are pretty scarred up from running out of food and a couple days of high temps due to a duct failure. But they're coming back and the buds look OK>
Hopefully, I'll get some soil test results back soon and I'll post those.
This one still has the High Brix shine:
Except for the cola on the far left of the photo, this is the lemon thai plant.
This Blue Dream took the worst of it. When the duct came off the light, hot air was blowing on this plant for hours. It was pretty ripped up. I would have culled it, but I wanted to get an idea how much punishment they could take. There are 4 colas each over 2 feet long. A month to go!
It works as advertised.
There are also some random bud shots here and there. I figure about a month more. Some are pretty scarred up from running out of food and a couple days of high temps due to a duct failure. But they're coming back and the buds look OK>
Hopefully, I'll get some soil test results back soon and I'll post those.
This one still has the High Brix shine:
Except for the cola on the far left of the photo, this is the lemon thai plant.
This Blue Dream took the worst of it. When the duct came off the light, hot air was blowing on this plant for hours. It was pretty ripped up. I would have culled it, but I wanted to get an idea how much punishment they could take. There are 4 colas each over 2 feet long. A month to go!
I picked up the limestone (pulverized), says it is 91% CACO3, the Gypsum and am looking for some Soft Rock Phosphate, I am sure my local feed store has some just haven't been there. I guess I am a Doc Bud disciple!
- Thread starter
- #396
i don't think you'll regret it!
Don't get me wrong, I love good smoke but growing is a fantastic hobby. Now for a couple of months I am going to plan a soil mix with some shortcuts due to what I can get locally and "cook" my soil for a month or so. Then it's on. I have read that you top your plants when running 12/12 but can't find where in the vast reading that is Doc Bud. I suspect as soon as the plant gets to the fourth node you top just above the third, is this right?
- Thread starter
- #398
Oh man....I'm glad you brought this up!
In the past, I'd start seeds right under the HPS in the flower room, top them when they five or six sets of leaves and that was that!
However, upon doing this with the High Brix method, it screwed up my plants! Here's what I think happened:
1.)High brix plants have more hormones, faster growth, etc. They also tend to ripen and mature faster, compared to my previous growing methods
2.)Topping them when I did caused a drastic reduction in flowering hormones, which are all produced in growing tips. This resulted in stunted plants that reverted back to veg a bit. Got some single bladed leaves on the more indica dominant plants, and the sativa's got firiggin huge. Bloom was delayed by a month! In the past, topping would buy me two extra weeks of veg...but no stress.
So, if you're gonna go High Brix, I'd advise the following:
1.)Top earlier under 12/12 or top under 18/6.
2.)Dont top at all and grow a single cola plant.
I never had this happen before the high brix was in place.
Even with all the trouble, the plants are getting better every day, and I think I'll have some bud porn worthy to post soon enough! The yield should be very good!
My next run will be a seed run because I want to start with 12/12 from seed, tired of the clones being boring. My plan will be 6 plants 2 each of PPP and Ice femmed and my current favorite the AKxSK#1. If I don't get a male from the two AKSK I will make feminized pollen using Giberaelic (SP?) acid and I won't top at all. From what little scheming I have done my soil will be mixed 3 to 2 using a commonly available garden soil and Fullers earth mineralized with 6/5/3. To this I will add a cup of Jobes organic for vegetables and tomatoes rated at 2-7-4 and 4 heaping tablespoons of powdered Alfalfa cubes per along with 4 tablespoons of OC+ per 4 gallons. I will tea as needed for the first 4 weeks with a tea made from 1 cup Jobes organic 4-4-4 and 8 teaspoons of molasses in 4 gallons of water bubbled. After the 4th week of flower I will feed with a mix of Kelp and mollasses at a rate of 1 tablespoon Maxicrop seaweed and 2 tsp of molasses per gallon at 30 oz's per 3 gallon container. The only part of this I haven't tested is of course the 6/5/3 and the amount of Jobes 2-7-4 but it seems a safe starting place. In cooking my soil mix should I do it in a closed container or a vented container? Should I hit it with tea before I let it sit for a month or so? Am I missing anything?
- Thread starter
- #400
You're on the right track!
I cook my soil in covered rubbermaid garbage cans. Every week or so, I stir it up with a shovel. I dump the whole mess out once, mix it up and put it back in.