Alex's - SCROG - 620 Watt CFL's - Actual Wattage - Super Lemon Haze

alex801 said:
Thank you guys.
Invi I don't have the knoll age of mixing my nutes up and adding p or k or things like that unfortunately,
I use simple nutes. By Dutch pro a two part a+b for veg and one for flower. It's just a good alrounder simple feed. 2-3ml of part a and part b mixed with 1 litre of water. So iv been using 1.5ml of each to the litre.
I think il stick with it unless I hit problems bigger than the brown tips for now. Of course though I'm just feeding water for a feed or two at the minute... Il maybe have a look into other nutes next grow depending on how these turn out :)
Invi the smel I'm getting is awsome it's so citrusy it's almost not like a mj smell. Iv not even bothered with the carbon filter
I love ur orange bud I love that strain
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You can check the ratios on A and B and maybe give less of which contains more N? But honestly i dont think a little N od does too much harm anyway.
Canna has 1 flower nute, and they make P/K that has no N and trace elements (but other companies have this too).

I love lemon's smell too, the most intensive amongst my girls. Orange Bud is getting better and better as smell goes, last time it was like a fruit flavored bubble gum.
 
Hey coke I'm looking at 4 weeks if say that would put me at 10.5 weeks. Maybe a shade more or less. How about u?

Invi I see your thinking there mate I don't think I'd have the bottle dude I'd prob fuk it big time somehow. Plus the guy in hydro shop said equal parts a + b or else they don't react right. Il be looking into the canna range next grow maybe I think :)
 
alex801 said:
Thank you guys.
I By Dutch pro a two part a+b for veg and one for flower. It's just a good alrounder simple feed. 2-3ml of part a and part b mixed with 1 litre of water. So iv been using 1.5ml of each to the litre.
Click to expand...


Lovely scroggy buds :)

I was reading up on your nutes.

Did u read this?

Never mix components in pure form with each other –

instead add component A,

water

and then component B in equal parts

(always rinse measuring cup well).vll).
Click to expand...

Do you mix it like this? The nutes should never mix directly! sounds scary.
 
So guys had a little look thru my mini Forrest and I was disappointed to find a few wilted discoloured leaves. Kind of light green/yellowing and soft not strong here's the worst do u lot have any ideas?

image2452.jpg
 
Thank you + reps for the chart. Only issue I have with it is its scetchyness like a few things look the same.
The leaf pictured is one of 4 there are a couple leafs smaller lower fans actually yellow completely. Soft feeling not crispy.
I'm week 6 flower of 10
 
Alex that looks to be the start of a potassium burn IMHO.
I have the rest of that chart in my blog also in my other blog there are more real pictures and details about each possible problem. Have a look if you like. Be sure to click the read more thing at the bottom of the blogs.
Happy Fried Day and a fine Sativaday and skunkday to follow:)
 
Fried day lol :)

Good weed!

Alex you have enough N, its for sure - the claw thing on the leaf on the pic is probably a result of that. If a leaf does the claw i don't believe the other def signs it shows because N od'd leaves might display any deficiency later on (including N). It can also be too much P or K maybe (in case there is tip burn too)? Maybe not a pH lockout, just too much feeding?

If you judge deficiencies from leaves, the important things are (as i know):
- has it started on upper (immobile) or lower leaves (mobile) or in the middle/no specific height (like Mg def, or N od),
- is it intervenial chlorosis or random spots, or complete color change of the leaf, or tip/side burn
- and what is the color it changes to of course.
From these usually it's easier for me to find the actual cause.

Immobile stuff are the components that the plant cannot transfer between leaves - usually the trace elements, like Fe - these affect the newest growth since the missing element cannot be transferred from old leaves to upper ones. Affected leaves will not heal ever.
Mobile elements are the ones the plant will be able to move from old growth to the new ones - affected leaves can heal over time if fed properly (like NPK).
So just by deciding if its an upper or lower leaf you narrow the search down significantly, then you can go on with color/shape and other stuff. Immobile deficiencies are often a sign of incorrect pH.
 
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