A question to any Gorilla grow tent owners

not sure that I know of a place that clearly shows what all we need. I had someone gift me a lot of this equipment and it took me a while to figure out how to most efficiently use it. Regarding the attic, I see no need for a separate vent when you have a perfectly good gable vent. Only you can see what you are dealing with though.
As far as using the same air in the room... again it is all about negative airflow. I am pumping so much air out of that window that the entire room is a negative flow area, and if I open the door to that room, there is a breeze from other parts of the house. Along with that, the window airconditioner is set to come on if the temp gets above 76 in there, and most of that cool fresh air is pointed toward the hood intake.
Hello Emilya! The grow shop today told me I need three separate roof vents. One for intake, one for outtake and another for a fan/filter. Also possibly an A/C in room ducted to the tent.
Im not going to grow in the summer.
If intake comes from roof jack it will draw cool air. No need A/C?
If it stinks too bad maybe a fan/filter later on, but still install its jack?
A friend has a roofing co. and he said he'd do roof jacks for material cost.
The grow shop wants me to spend $ and can match the $700. Gorilla grow tent price I saw online. Once i completely find out what I need I might go in and see if they will match prices I find online so I can get better service. I will figure it out. Still time. Still lots of room/house prep. to be done. Id like to start the tent grow in Oct. Peace Emilya!!
 
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Hello Emilya! The grow shop today told me I need three separate roof vents. One for intake, one for outtake and another for a fan/filter. Also possibly an A/C in room ducted to the tent.
Im not going to grow in the summer.
If intake comes from roof jack it will draw cool air. No need A/C?
If it stinks too bad maybe a fan/filter later on, but still install its jack?
A friend has a roofing co. and he said he'd do roof jacks for material cost.
The grow shop wants me to spend $ and can match the $700. Gorilla grow tent price I saw online. Once i completely find out what I need I might go in and see if they will match prices I find online so I can get better service. I will figure it out. Still time. Still lots of room/house prep. to be done. Id like to start the tent grow in Oct. Peace Emilya!!

Emilya, there was a few questions for you in the last post but I guess my thinking is correct there.
No need A/C?
Install third vent for filter/fan if needed for smell?
Electrical question..... have electrician wire room with...... a single 240v 20amp circuit. A second circuit 120v for all other equip.?? Thanks Emilya!!!
 
Emilya, there was a few questions for you in the last post but I guess my thinking is correct there.
No need A/C?
Install third vent for filter/fan if needed for smell?
Electrical question..... have electrician wire room with...... a single 240v 20amp circuit. A second circuit 120v for all other equip.?? Thanks Emilya!!!

air cooled hoods or air conditioning? If you are running big lights in the summertime, air cooling is probably necessary. 85° is my cutoff... if the tent temperature gets to that point, it is time to turn on the air conditioning. I have things set now where temps don't get higher than 83° before the air conditioner window unit brings that room back into line with the rest of the house.

you wiring would be exactly what I did. I sent one 220 20a circuit to that room and there I split it into separate two 220 outlets with a dedicated 110 from separate halves of the 220. Then I also have the regular 110 in the room that I use for my x-10 timer system to control the 220 outlets. Each one has an air conditioner relay that activates via the house 110, and controls whether each 220 socket is on or off. With this system, I am able to control my 220v ballasts with a 110v timer.... pretty slick.
 
sounds like a good deal, provided a zipper isnt ripped or something. I would probably jump on it, because I like my little gorilla tent a lot, and a lot better quality than my other Sun Hut tents.

Im assuming the tents arent damaged just used. Amazon must inspect them?? Its a $400. difference between new and used. I will try to call Amazon and see. The roofer asked what kind of roof jacks I wanted, Damper's? Not sure. Do you know Emilya? thanks
 
lol... I am just a cheapskate... and I really wouldnt care how the air got outside, just so it did. So I would be inclined to use what is already there, and yes I am a big fan of bailing wire, duct tape and zip ties in lots of my projects. My entire electrical system, and my oscillating fan are all held up with zip ties and what I feel is a clever re-purposing of some 2x4s that were stored in my garage. :)
 
Thanks so much! I will just attach it to the gable vents good. No need roof jacks. Im thinking of starting a room thread but i almost got one here, thanks to you.
Im guessing both the intake and outtake can bet afixed to the gable vent? One on bottom and one on top?
Im thinking if I need a fan/filter for smell I can route it in the room the tents in?? instead of jack or gable?
I also have a timer box given to me and I will take a pic and show you so to see if it goes with the 220v ballasts. Maybe I will take a pic of ALL the equip. and you can guide me better. My yard grow is Beautiful! will take a pic soon. Thanks
 
Thanks so much! I will just attach it to the gable vents good. No need roof jacks. Im thinking of starting a room thread but i almost got one here, thanks to you.
Im guessing both the intake and outtake can bet afixed to the gable vent? One on bottom and one on top?
Im thinking if I need a fan/filter for smell I can route it in the room the tents in?? instead of jack or gable?
I also have a timer box given to me and I will take a pic and show you so to see if it goes with the 220v ballasts. Maybe I will take a pic of ALL the equip. and you can guide me better. My yard grow is Beautiful! will take a pic soon. Thanks


I dont see why you cant use the entire vent for intake and output. My airconditioner window for example... the unit brings in cool fresh air, yet right next to it in the same window, I am jetting out around 600 cfm from my home made vent... that is less area than your gable vent, I would bet, and it works just fine.

A good filter could work recirculating the air in the room... I do exactly that at the end of flower when I start noticing smell when I enter the house. More efficient however is to mount your filter at the roof of your tent so as to capture the hot air accumulating up there and send it out of the tent, along with the smell. It is also way more efficient to pull air through the filter with a fan mounted on top and then push that cleansed air out of the tent, rather than try to push dirty air through the filter at the other end.

Unless your timer specifically has 220 plugs on it, it is designed for 110. Without a relay such as I described above, it probably can not switch 220. My Lumatek ballasts can run on 110, but less efficiently. I could have hooked a conventional timer to them and ran them from half of my 220 line, but that would have defeated the whole purpose of the 220. The relays were cheap... like $8. Their power drain is minimal, and they are designed for hours and hours of lockdown.

I will be glad to look at what you have, but remember that I am not an electrician, I am an economist who happens to know a bit about electronics because of my Ham Radio hobby. :)
 
I dont see why you cant use the entire vent for intake and output. My airconditioner window for example... the unit brings in cool fresh air, yet right next to it in the same window, I am jetting out around 600 cfm from my home made vent... that is less area than your gable vent, I would bet, and it works just fine.

A good filter could work recirculating the air in the room... I do exactly that at the end of flower when I start noticing smell when I enter the house. More efficient however is to mount your filter at the roof of your tent so as to capture the hot air accumulating up there and send it out of the tent, along with the smell. It is also way more efficient to pull air through the filter with a fan mounted on top and then push that cleansed air out of the tent, rather than try to push dirty air through the filter at the other end.

Unless your timer specifically has 220 plugs on it, it is designed for 110. Without a relay such as I described above, it probably can not switch 220. My Lumatek ballasts can run on 110, but less efficiently. I could have hooked a conventional timer to them and ran them from half of my 220 line, but that would have defeated the whole purpose of the 220. The relays were cheap... like $8. Their power drain is minimal, and they are designed for hours and hours of lockdown.

I will be glad to look at what you have, but remember that I am not an electrician, I am an economist who happens to know a bit about electronics because of my Ham Radio hobby. :)
Hi Emilya, is a ham radio like a CB where you can talk to people from all over or like a radio that gets stations from all over the world?? Have a great weekend! Jesse
 
Hi Emilya, is a ham radio like a CB where you can talk to people from all over or like a radio that gets stations from all over the world?? Have a great weekend! Jesse

Yep, Amateur Radio (Ham) is the big mother of radio hobbies, much like CB but with rules and licenses and call signs. We talk all over the world, and we keep our communities safe when storms, floods and disasters hit. Everything that you know of that has to do with radio, from the microwave you cook your food in, to the wi-fi you are using to connect to the internet... all had their start in Ham Radio.

As you can see from this picture, a lot of projects in the growroom make their way to my Ham Radio desk in the next room, and when this picture was taken I was tracking a storm moving across the region, and one of my radios was locked into the local repeater in a weather watch net.

DSCF55611.JPG
 
Yep, Amateur Radio (Ham) is the big mother of radio hobbies, much like CB but with rules and licenses and call signs. We talk all over the world, and we keep our communities safe when storms, floods and disasters hit. Everything that you know of that has to do with radio, from the microwave you cook your food in, to the wi-fi you are using to connect to the internet... all had their start in Ham Radio.

As you can see from this picture, a lot of projects in the growroom make their way to my Ham Radio desk in the next room, and when this picture was taken I was tracking a storm moving across the region, and one of my radios was locked into the local repeater in a weather watch net.

DSCF55611.JPG

Interesting hobby Emilya. I looked at my timer box and its 240v. My ballasts have both 110 and 240 slots. Update.... Ok hoods are wired 240 and they go into the 240 slots on the timer and then to 240 ballasts then run 110 to power?
does the timer turn off both ballasts and lights or just lights?
So has my electrical needs changed from your last recommendations??
Instead of all the exhaust and cooling needs for the HPs hoods cant I get a state of the art LED's and bypass all that?? It would seem much easier.
Whats that bottle of fluid for in that pic?
Thank you for your patience, help and bringing some love to the trade Emilya!
 
Interesting hobby Emilya. I looked at my timer box and its 240v. My ballasts have both 110 and 240 slots.
So has my electrical needs changed from your last recommendations??
Instead of all the exhaust and cooling needs for the HPs hoods cant I get a state of the art LED's and bypass all that?? It would seem much easier. Whats that bottle of fluid for in that pic? Thank you Emilya!

You have a great timer box then! Nice! So yes, that new 220 line will serve your needs just fine.

I am not a fan of LED. I know a lot are, and I almost jumped on it when they started coming out... I even bought $500 worth of LED's to wire up myself and DIY a light... but I gave up on the project because I liked these big lights better. Some people love led, but don't think that they do not have a lot of heat... they do. Some plants don't like LED too... that seems to be a drawback to me.

Mainly though, although there are many good arguments for using LED, I look at it as an intermediate technology. It is expensive to get started too. There are two other technologies emerging that excite me a lot, and I think they are going to leave LED in the dust. Dollar per watt per usable lumens, both ceramic HPS and plasma look very exciting and price on both is coming down. Personally, I am waiting on the plasma to become economical, with its 1/4 the power consumption for the same light. I am sure that they will soon learn how to tune that light to exactly what we need it to be. In the meantime, I get great results from HPS and MH.

So, my recommendation to you, although it might not be as cool as a neat new LED, is to use what you have been given to the best of its ability... and learn for yourself what those lights and hoods can do. It seems you are good at accumulating things. I wouldn't be surprised if in the future you get a chance to test out an LED too, and then learn to direct tuned light without a reflective hood.

The liquid in the bottle is the very most useful thing you can have in a garden, lactobacillus serum. Lacto is considered the workhorse of the microlife, and it is very beneficial to our plants. I use it primarily to break down organic materials in order to make my other natural organic nutrients. Two tablespoons of lacto, diluted 20:1, will break down raw ground up fish into fish hydrolysate, in about 2 weeks, which works a whole lot better for our plants than that 5-1-1 stuff you can get at the store, and it doesn't even smell bad when you are done. A lacto spray on the leaves at 40:1 dramatically increases the plant's ability to uptake nutrients, and it provides a natural barrier to pests, molds and fungi. Lacto added to compost piles or teas helps to break down the raw organic materials much faster. A single spray of lacto will ELIMINATE cat box odor, dog pen odors, even my brother's nasty tennis shoes are no match for its ability to eliminate (eat) smells. Check my links, and you will find my thread on how to make the stuff. :)
 
You have a great timer box then! Nice! So yes, that new 220 line will serve your needs just fine.

I am not a fan of LED. I know a lot are, and I almost jumped on it when they started coming out... I even bought $500 worth of LED's to wire up myself and DIY a light... but I gave up on the project because I liked these big lights better. Some people love led, but don't think that they do not have a lot of heat... they do. Some plants don't like LED too... that seems to be a drawback to me.

Mainly though, although there are many good arguments for using LED, I look at it as an intermediate technology. It is expensive to get started too. There are two other technologies emerging that excite me a lot, and I think they are going to leave LED in the dust. Dollar per watt per usable lumens, both ceramic HPS and plasma look very exciting and price on both is coming down. Personally, I am waiting on the plasma to become economical, with its 1/4 the power consumption for the same light. I am sure that they will soon learn how to tune that light to exactly what we need it to be. In the meantime, I get great results from HPS and MH.

So, my recommendation to you, although it might not be as cool as a neat new LED, is to use what you have been given to the best of its ability... and learn for yourself what those lights and hoods can do. It seems you are good at accumulating things. I wouldn't be surprised if in the future you get a chance to test out an LED too, and then learn to direct tuned light without a reflective hood.

The liquid in the bottle is the very most useful thing you can have in a garden, lactobacillus serum. Lacto is considered the workhorse of the microlife, and it is very beneficial to our plants. I use it primarily to break down organic materials in order to make my other natural organic nutrients. Two tablespoons of lacto, diluted 20:1, will break down raw ground up fish into fish hydrolysate, in about 2 weeks, which works a whole lot better for our plants than that 5-1-1 stuff you can get at the store, and it doesn't even smell bad when you are done. A lacto spray on the leaves at 40:1 dramatically increases the plant's ability to uptake nutrients, and it provides a natural barrier to pests, molds and fungi. Lacto added to compost piles or teas helps to break down the raw organic materials much faster. A single spray of lacto will ELIMINATE cat box odor, dog pen odors, even my brother's nasty tennis shoes are no match for its ability to eliminate (eat) smells. Check my links, and you will find my thread on how to make the stuff. :)

Your the best!!
 
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