6 Bagseeds: A Journey Worth Our Time?

Nothing new to report
Just pics

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I have a question about water for whom might know
I tested the water collected by the dehumidifier. The ppm is low as I expected ~50 ppm, the acidity was very low as well which surprised me, tested 8.14 PH.

Now, what does the date tell me? Should I use this water for watering?
The tap ppm is ~500ish BTW.
I would appreciate very much any input anyone might add.

Another question,
What do you recommend with regarding to plant manipulation during first 3 weeks of flower. Should I keep messing with it or just let it grow naturally?

I am so clueless, you can read a ton but until you experience it first hand, then you truly learn.

Thanks in advance for any advice lovely people and happy growing!

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I cannot help you there, I have never tested ph or ppm. I do know a member who can help.
@Emilya Can you please assist here with and provide both of us on the ph matter?:thanks::love:

You have a limited grow space so vertical height is now your enemy. During flower the plants will want to double in height to reach the light source. With that thought in mind you need to have know the maximum height for the plants.

You have a total of 160 cm of vertical space to work with. Now you need to know the following so you can calculate the maximum height:
1. Recommended minimum distance between light and top of plant.
2. Distance from the top of the tent to the bottom of the light when retracted at the top.
3. Height of grow container from base to top of grow medium.
Subtract the sum of the 3 know measurements from the total height and you will have the maximum height of your plants.

With that being said the pics show she is healthy enough to defoliate. Remember she will want to produce a bud at every node where a fan leaf is. With that thought in mind you will have to manage your lower canopy. I have another member in mind who does some wonderful micro growing who probably will be able to shed more light on the subject.

@VetSmoke85 Could you please help in managing a plant in small spaces, :thanks:
 
Today I checked for the first time the PH leavel of the run off water.
My tap ph is about 7.2. Few weeks back I waterd with a drop of lemon juice to get the ph to 6.5, but later reed that it's not recommended so stopped with that all together after 3 waterings.

The water pH after I add the nuts is about 7.
Anyway I was super happy to see the ph of the runoff water was 6.1.

The 3 waterings with the citric acid didn't seem to bother the gals at all.
This is the cause of the discoloration we are seeing, and those little bronze spots showing up in your lower and middle leaves. PH is very important to get right and somewhere in the documentation from your soil and same brand nutes, they are going to mention the pH range you should be in, but for now lets assume that it is the same as most soil grows.

Lemon juice may not be the best way to lower your pH, but that doesn't mean you should stop doing it. For the last 3 waterings with your pH near 7 after adding your nutes, your fluids were way out of the 6.2-6.8 pH range for soil, and worse than that, once you applied that fluid, it would begin to drift upwards... completely out of the usable range.

Doing what you are doing is eventually going to cause big troubles, and right now since most of the time your pH is out of the range, your nutes are being wasted being non mobile and unavailable to the plants.

If you simply adjusted your solutions, or plain water when that is used, to 6.3 pH, you would come in on the low end of the range and the drift would swing it through the entire range, picking up all of your nutes as they become the most mobile. 6.5 is the middle of the range, and if you adjust to that point, you miss all the nutes that are most mobile at the low end... like Magnesium, which is what your deficiency looks like. Make sure that your pH is at 6.3 from now on, and I think there is a good chance that your magnesium problem will not get any worse.

Now lets talk about runoff. In coco, runoff is a valuable tool to tell you what is going on above.... but in soil, runoff measurements of pH or ppm are totally useless. Unlike a coco measurement, soil runoff contains fine particles of soil and the organics in that soil, and these affect your reading. Like coffee coming out of a percolator, its strength depends on how much water you pour through it... so at what point might your reading have anything to do with the soil pH at all? 5% runoff enough? 20%? Each of these will give you a differing pH reading, so at what point does this arbitrary measurement correspond to anything? The answer is never. Reading pH down there is pointless.

Second, thinking that this somehow relates to a soil pH is also a mistake in logic. The only pH measurement that means anything in soil is the DRY base pH. This is the pH that the soil reverts to when it is dry, and the only way to measure it is with equal weights of distilled water and a soil sample, mixed together in a vacuum. Sticking a probe in the soil can't read this, nor can a runoff test.

When you water a container of soil however, because the molecular weight of the water so vastly outweighs that of the soil, the 10 fold law comes into play and we realize that the pH of the container, a column of soil saturated with water, has to be the pH of the fluid used to wet the soil. If you water at 6.3 pH, at that moment, the pH of your entire container is 6.3 pH... it can be no different. As the plant begins to use water and the water table drops in that container, the top portion of the column of soil begins to dry out. As the pH of the water stops influencing that area, that portion of the soil drifts back to the base pH of the soil, usually set to 6.8 or so. In other words, the pH in your container is different, depending on where you might measure it and how much of the water has drifted away.
 
Thank you so much @Enr0n and @Emilya for your great comments, I've learned so much!
Let me read that few more time, digest it and I will come back with some follow up questions....
Thanks a lot again
 
Yeah true true I do wanna keep it for breeding seed came from a dispo so I imagine it’s gotta be some fire either way might breed with a Blue cheese Fem clone so always positives in the negatives huh bro
I have a question about water for whom might know
I tested the water collected by the dehumidifier. The ppm is low as I expected ~50 ppm, the acidity was very low as well which surprised me, tested 8.14 PH.

Now, what does the date tell me? Should I use this water for watering?
The tap ppm is ~500ish BTW.
I would appreciate very much any input anyone might add.

Another question,
What do you recommend with regarding to plant manipulation during first 3 weeks of flower. Should I keep messing with it or just let it grow naturally?

I am so clueless, you can read a ton but until you experience it first hand, then you truly learn.

Thanks in advance for any advice lovely people and happy growing!

20210108_135754.jpg
Personally I lower my Nutes and water and compost tea to at least 5.9 to 6.8 I try to get my soil around 6.9 nothing higher plants are loving it I would buy some pH down but be careful how you add it to the water it’s potent only like a drop or two depending on how big your sprayers are
 
Personally I lower my Nutes and water and compost tea to at least 5.9 to 6.8 I try to get my soil around 6.9 nothing higher plants are loving it I would buy some pH down but be careful how you add it to the water it’s potent only like a drop or two depending on how big your sprayers are
Also get those ppms up on my veg and bloom nutes I try to run at least 400 430 ppm for each I’m using liquid nutes and some dry amendments already in the soil which you should take into account as well good luck and if you have any questions just ask !
 
Thanks for the mention @Enr0n. Got to read some more of @Emilya's knowledge getting dropped :laugh: Love it.
Regarding training you can continue some LST in early flower no problem. Regarding height constraints I just use small pots and as @Enr0n said know what distance I want them to finish away from the lights and flip when they're about half the height I want them. Although I've had to pretty much wing it most of the time in my cabinet. Especially with autos. That's just been small pots, strain selection and training to keep them small. I've had buds pressing against my light before and only got a little burnt. Lol. Supercropping can come in handy if you start running out of headroom too.
 
Thanks for the mention @Enr0n. Got to read some more of @Emilya's knowledge getting dropped :laugh: Love it.
Regarding training you can continue some LST in early flower no problem. Regarding height constraints I just use small pots and as @Enr0n said know what distance I want them to finish away from the lights and flip when they're about half the height I want them. Although I've had to pretty much wing it most of the time in my cabinet. Especially with autos. That's just been small pots, strain selection and training to keep them small. I've had buds pressing against my light before and only got a little burnt. Lol. Supercropping can come in handy if you start running out of headroom too.
First thank you for commenting!
But headroom is not my problem at all. If I wasn't so eager to progress I would and maybe should have veged for longer. If say miraclesly the girls grow even 15' (40ish cm) I'm fine with that lol

I just never felt first hend growing, so don't know what to expect and what are the plant reaction would be.

Thanks again brother!
 
Pretty sure that happens every time to us all. Nice grow!
Thank you bro,
I came all scapled up, feeling like a surgint.. But I hed no idea what the hell I was doing:laugh:
BTW I fimed another 2 of the younger ones, same thing there lol
 
I caught up and would like to hang around, @Dabeast09. That's going to be one crowded space! :Rasta:
 
You will likely find that those bag seeds will predominantly be female. Great start. We all keep adding to our grows as they evolve. Looking forward to your progress. Also...(in a sick way)...i am looking forward to seeing you choppy choppy for harvest. It will rip your heart out... :) ...but always great to get our 1st harvest out of the way.
Your right about ripping your heart out it was like saying goodbye to an old friend.
 
Getting thick up in here :thumb: :yahoo:

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First pic Is the veg monsters, 4 bagseeds I kinnda getting my hopes up about.. And other pics is the flower. Almost end of week 2 of flower. The color difference is just the lights, they as as green as the veggies

BTW I turned off the dehumidifier in the flower tent. Got to 30%...

Some more from now:

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Dear friends, a question please

Reminder, I have 2 girls that on Monday they will we at day 14 day of flower.

So, next week Shuld I lollipop, removing lower 1/3 growth from all stems?
 
You will want to create a canopy that is as even as possible. In addition below the canopy needs to be open for air flow so some leaf trimming is inevitable. You have to have what I call a "vision" for each plant. Picture in your mind what you want the canopy and lower growth to look like and train/defoliate accordingly. I don't know how else to explain it but there are numerous pics and others you explore to help out.
 
Dear friends, a question please

Reminder, I have 2 girls that on Monday they will we at day 14 day of flower.

So, next week Shuld I lollipop, removing lower 1/3 growth from all stems?
If it were mine I'd wait for the third week or look to see that they are fully "stretched". They stretch for around 3 weeks. In that time they build bud sites. If you shock them in this period It's my belief that they will be slightly stunted. You may never know it but the plant wouldn't have had time to hormone up and create all her buds the way she wants. That's what I've read here, seems to be true. I don't want to spread wrong things. Anyway, yes, two weeks is ok, three is better. Edit: Haha, Next week is 3 weeks nice!
 
You will want to create a canopy that is as even as possible. In addition below the canopy needs to be open for air flow so some leaf trimming is inevitable. You have to have what I call a "vision" for each plant. Picture in your mind what you want the canopy and lower growth to look like and train/defoliate accordingly. I don't know how else to explain it but there are numerous pics and others you explore to help out.
You described it great my friend
 
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