4inch PVC Aero/NFT 4x5 SCROG - 1200 Watts

mcloadie said:
I'll use a hypothetical situation for clarity;

Lets say I have a space that I'm controlling Rh and temp, I know that warm air holds more moisture than cold, so if the Rh is at 50 and temps are at 80 and I drop it 10 degrees, the Rh goes down, but where did that moisture go?
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Y'know, not to be prig or anything, but your question isn't exactly clear and seems to contain an error. I bolded it.

To attempt to clarify : Warm air does indeed hold more water than cold air. When the temperature goes down the air CAN then hold less water, but IS holding the same amount as before, and so the water that IS in the air amounts to a greater percentage of what the air CAN hold, thus the RELATIVE humidity is higher. When the temperature increases, the RELATIVE humidity will drop, because the capacity of the air to hold water will increase.

So much for the physical facts. Moving on to the practical considerations. Temperature effects aside, there are things going on in the grow room that move water into the air. Evaporation and transpiration. Both of these taper off steeply once the light goes off. A good ventilation system will change the air in the room pretty quickly. These together will cause a sudden drop in actual humidity after lights out.

Each paragraph above outlines one of the two pertinent factors. One adds and the other subtracts on your relative humidity meter.

I hope that helps without seeming ill mannered.
 
Chilling the air makes water molecules that are in the gaseous form condense to a liquid state and precipitate out.
Dehumidifiers are a good example, just on a bigger scale. The water is still there just in a different form.
 
Yes, the old man is right.

When the air temperature is reduced to the dew point, it will be at 100% relative humidity. Below the dew point, the air can't hold it all, so some drops out.
 
Sorry if this has already been answered but I couldn't see it anywhere.

I was hoping you could clarify exactly how the 45 gallon nutrient tank, the 30 gallon RO water tank, and the RO water feed are connected up.

Am I correct in thinking that as the water level in the 45 gallon nutrient tank falls, a ballcock (balltap / float valve) opens and tops it up from the 30 gallon RO water tank?

You then manually top up the RO water tank from mains water that has been through the RO filter?

Thanks
 
greenbanana said:
Sorry if this has already been answered but I couldn't see it anywhere.

I was hoping you could clarify exactly how the 45 gallon nutrient tank, the 30 gallon RO water tank, and the RO water feed are connected up.

Am I correct in thinking that as the water level in the 45 gallon nutrient tank falls, a ballcock (balltap / float valve) opens and tops it up from the 30 gallon RO water tank?

You then manually top up the RO water tank from mains water that has been through the RO filter?

Thanks
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Koolkat aka Fied is no longer with us. So sad.

I have followed this thread from the beginning and here is my opinion.

The RO unit is connected to the ballcock in the reserve tank so it can be topping up to full. The faucet on the reserve tank is opened to top up the nutrient tank in the other room......I think, lol.
 
Oh dear, that sucks.

IMO the reserve tank seems a bit redundant. If it tops up the reservoir automatically then it will throw pH/EC out so you may as well have used a larger reservoir and/or topped up automatically from the RO system. If you have to top up the reservoir manually from the reserve tank then it is saving you maybe 2 minutes each time you top up. It just seems pointless, unless I am completely missing something.

I am building a similar NFT system but unfortunately I cannot leave it permanently connected to the mains water supply. I will have to connect the hose up manually when I need to top up, although I will probably use a float valve / ballcock so that I don't have to watch it constantly. It would be great if I could figure out a way to have the system automatically stabilise pH/EC. It could be an interesting electrical project!

I am also debating whether or not to get an RO system or not. Some people swear by it but others say you need the minerals that it removes. I guess it depends on the local water supply and the nutes you plan on using?
 
greenbanana said:
Oh dear, that sucks.

IMO the reserve tank seems a bit redundant. If it tops up the reservoir automatically then it will throw pH/EC out so you may as well have used a larger reservoir and/or topped up automatically from the RO system. If you have to top up the reservoir manually from the reserve tank then it is saving you maybe 2 minutes each time you top up. It just seems pointless, unless I am completely missing something.

I am building a similar NFT system but unfortunately I cannot leave it permanently connected to the mains water supply. I will have to connect the hose up manually when I need to top up, although I will probably use a float valve / ballcock so that I don't have to watch it constantly. It would be great if I could figure out a way to have the system automatically stabilise pH/EC. It could be an interesting electrical project!

I am also debating whether or not to get an RO system or not. Some people swear by it but others say you need the minerals that it removes. I guess it depends on the local water supply and the nutes you plan on using?
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I guess he wanted a full reserve tank so there would be water on hand for any reason besides topping up the nutrient tank.

The reason for the valve would be so you could add nutrients and adjust pH at the time of topping off the nutrient tank. If it were automatic as you suggest, then the pH might drift etc.

If you use RO water, then you have to add cal/mag.

They say that if your house water PPM is below 200 you can try it and see, but don't add cal/mag. If your house water has a lot of chlorine in it, you can use a reservoir and bubble it out in a day...
 
Heey man i just read trough some of your journal but its just too long for me :D Soo i just wanted to ask if you completed ur 100 plants harvest and i need to say i reaaly love that setup you got here :) +reps to you my friend :)
 
I'm just wondering, Did you use a Rooting hormone? All I can see I you placed the Clones into Neoprene inserts and sprayed them with a light solution on sensi grow a of 200PPm or something like that.
 
Taliiman said:
I'm just wondering, Did you use a Rooting hormone? All I can see I you placed the Clones into Neoprene inserts and sprayed them with a light solution on sensi grow a of 200PPm or something like that.
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Hi. This is a very old thread and unfortunately 420Fied aka koolkat is no longer with us.
 
kimmy said:
Hi. This is a very old thread and unfortunately 420Fied aka koolkat is no longer with us.
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Ok thanks for the heads up, but maybe someone has an answer to what he would have used? Or what one would use to clone in an Aeroponic manner. I do not wish to use rooting gel and rockwool or any soiless media
 
Taliiman said:
Ok thanks for the heads up, but maybe someone has an answer to what he would have used? Or what one would use to clone in an Aeroponic manner. I do not wish to use rooting gel and rockwool or any soiless media
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I don't believe he used any gel, but I think Mr. Smith had almost talked him into it. Fied/koolkat had another thread you might be interested in:
DIY 50 site aero cloner for under $100.00
 
KingJohnC said:
A very cool guy named @koolkat once built a 4inch PVC Aero/NFT 4x5 SCROG - 1200 Watts whose Grow Journal I followed. After seeing the results that @koolkat had with his 4" Aeroponic system I had to build one and I designed my 6" Aeroponic Grow System. I would like to invite everyone to my KingJohnC's Green Sun LED Lights Znet4 Aeroponic Indoor Grow Journal & Review!
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This thread continues to produce after all these years... Subbed your journal and recommend it to anyone here (there are still a few posts here every year, it seems).
 
koolkat said:
Re: 4inch PVC Aero/NFT 4x5 SCROG (1200 Watts)

Thanks l8t but I can't take the credit for this concept. I simplay took the advice of a good friend. Stick around there's a ton more to come!


So here's a look at the spray pump after all the vinyl hoses have been hooked up. See those brass tees? You need them to build this system and they're 46.00 for 10...lol anyway, you can see the water draining back into the res as the sprayers are on in this picture. Notice the float valve in the rear....that's what feeds the nute res and keeps it from overflowing.

waterfall_res.jpg


Here's a look at the Chiller pump. Mine is a Danner 500gph mag drive pump. It'll keep your res circulating at a cool 65*. It sits right beside my res.

chiller_pump.jpg


The spray jets in action. I simply attached them using zip ties. The white Duct tape covers the old holes.

jet_pot.jpg


water_spray.jpg


spray_pipe.jpg
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that last picture is beautiful
 
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