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Mr. Krip said:
I'll see what I can come up with for you, but I didn't see it on the website, either.
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since it looks like all white light i'm guessing they parked it in the 3500k range. kinda the "full spectrum" compromise. the graph they reference sort of suggests they might have a couple strips in the 4000k or 4500k in there as well.

i'm curious what they are using for drivers,and whether they run a single or multiple drivers. betting they are running multiple.

no mention of the chipset at all either. relates directly to build quality.
 
bluter said:
their website is amazingly thin on useful information.

did they provide any details on the drivers, chipsets, or chip kelvin ?
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bluter said:
since it looks like all white light i'm guessing they parked it in the 3500k range. kinda the "full spectrum" compromise. the graph they reference sort of suggests they might have a couple strips in the 4000k or 4500k in there as well.

i'm curious what they are using for drivers,and whether they run a single or multiple drivers. betting they are running multiple.

no mention of the chipset at all either. relates directly to build quality.
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@NextLight, can you please answer the above? :thanks:
 
Mr. Krip said:
Here's the answer from GeoFlora:
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Wait now im confused i guess it dnt really matter 2 me cuz i dnt use coco but isnt coco considerd soilless but it says it does coco jus not soilless lol. So it had me kinda confused lol.
 
bluter said:
since it looks like all white light i'm guessing they parked it in the 3500k range. kinda the "full spectrum" compromise. the graph they reference sort of suggests they might have a couple strips in the 4000k or 4500k in there as well.

i'm curious what they are using for drivers,and whether they run a single or multiple drivers. betting they are running multiple.

no mention of the chipset at all either. relates directly to build quality.
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Can be 3500K but I think these are totally 4000K. They say that they choose to fit in the most possible power to the unit rather than adding some inefficient red band supplementary diodes. The spectrum graph is pretty similar to Samsung's 3030 4000K diodes and these have the highest efficiency among all of the present LED models. I also designed some of my diy LED boards with that logic and think that using the most available power from your diodes is better than adding spesific bands. I am getting amazing readings with these diodes and Nextlight also did a great job on the readings imo. I don't ask more from a grow light. I think 4000K is the sweet spot and what we should call full spectrum but 3500K can be considered as full spectrum as well.
 
Blazinjones said:
Wait now im confused i guess it dnt really matter 2 me cuz i dnt use coco but isnt coco considerd soilless but it says it does coco jus not soilless lol. So it had me kinda confused lol.
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Coco is a soilless medium. But if you water your coco once per three days, there won't be any advantage of using coco against soil. You can grow in coco and water less frequently but you need to adjust pH so there won't be any upsides using coco in this case.
 
Mr. Krip said:
Here's the answer from GeoFlora:
Click to expand...
Blazinjones said:
Wait now im confused i guess it dnt really matter 2 me cuz i dnt use coco but isnt coco considerd soilless but it says it does coco jus not soilless lol. So it had me kinda confused lol.
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Me to blazin! Peat-based media are always referred to as a soilless medium too. ProMix for example - most, including the manufacturer, describe this as soilless. YMMV :) So yes their response is a little confusing to me too.
 
TriangleCheese said:
Can be 3500K but I think these are totally 4000K. They say that they choose to fit in the most possible power to the unit rather than adding some inefficient red band supplementary diodes. The spectrum graph is pretty similar to Samsung's 3030 4000K diodes and these have the highest efficiency among all of the present LED models. I also designed some of my diy LED boards with that logic and think that using the most available power from your diodes is better than adding spesific bands. I am getting amazing readings with these diodes and Nextlight also did a great job on the readings imo. I don't ask more from a grow light. I think 4000K is the sweet spot and what we should call full spectrum but 3500K can be considered as full spectrum as well.
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4000k is totally veg land. most "white" emitters carry enough blue at 3500K and 3000k to be used for "full spectrum". i run diy full spectrum cob rigs built with a mix of 3000k and 3500k. it's biased to flower, but that's the bias you want if you have to have one. the rigs veg amazingly, and flower about as well.

when i was selling them i built 4000k/4500k veg only rigs, and 2700K/3000k flower only rigs, for those that wanted them. the 3000k/3500k "full spectrum" were far more popular though for obvious reasons. they are the ones i personally use as well.
 
Blazinjones said:
Wait now im confused i guess it dnt really matter 2 me cuz i dnt use coco but isnt coco considerd soilless but it says it does coco jus not soilless lol. So it had me kinda confused lol.
Click to expand...
TriangleCheese said:
Coco is a soilless medium. But if you water your coco once per three days, there won't be any advantage of using coco against soil. You can grow in coco and water less frequently but you need to adjust pH so there won't be any upsides using coco in this case.
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Amy Gardner said:
Me to blazin! Peat-based media are always referred to as a soilless medium too. ProMix for example - most, including the manufacturer, describe this as soilless. YMMV :) So yes their response is a little confusing to me too.
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I agree 420% that BOTH coco and peat are soilless (unless, of course, they're mixed with soil). I've asked GeoFlora to clarify their answer. I suspect, based on their original answer, that it will work fine with coco or peat in a drain-to-waste application but not with anything using a reservoir. That being said, since both coco and peat are inert with no nutrient value, I also asked them to clarify how the microbes in the mix would come into play, if they would at all.
 
bluter said:
4000k is totally veg land. most "white" emitters carry enough blue at 3500K and 3000k to be used for "full spectrum". i run diy full spectrum cob rigs built with a mix of 3000k and 3500k. it's biased to flower, but that's the bias you want if you have to have one. the rigs veg amazingly, and flower about as well.

when i was selling them i built 4000k/4500k veg only rigs, and 2700K/3000k flower only rigs, for those that wanted them. the 3000k/3500k "full spectrum" were far more popular though for obvious reasons. they are the ones i personally use as well.
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Nice words mate :passitleft:

I think the most important thing to consider is the grow method when it comes to decide which spectrum to use. All bands have their benefits but we all choose different ways of growing our plants. Personally, I like big plants and love a good stretch on veg. I top my plants from a relatively higher point and then, I strip everything down under the mainline. That's why I like extra red on veg. and have been vegging my plants under 3000K QB's or red boosted Viparspectra's ideally for my case. On blooming period, I've seen great results with both 3000K,3500K and 4000K.
 
TriangleCheese said:
Nice words mate :passitleft:

I think the most important thing to consider is the grow method when it comes to decide which spectrum to use. All bands have their benefits but we all choose different ways of growing our plants. Personally, I like big plants and love a good stretch on veg. I top my plants from a relatively higher point and then, I strip everything down under the mainline. That's why I like extra red on veg. and have been vegging my plants under 3000K QB's or red boosted Viparspectra's ideally for my case. On blooming period, I've seen great results with both 3000K,3500K and 4000K.
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i think you've really figured it out. :passitleft:

i've been told the higher K veg rigs result in plants not only a bit stretchier, but with thicker stems and branches compared to the ones grown and finished under my 3000k/3500k mix. i'd really like to try it one day, but a proper side by side comparison is not really in my wheel house.

i know one who person vegs and flowers under a veg rig i built just fine. i would imagine there is a bit of yield difference.
 
Mr. Krip said:
I agree 420% that BOTH coco and peat are soilless (unless, of course, they're mixed with soil). I've asked GeoFlora to clarify their answer. I suspect, based on their original answer, that it will work fine with coco or peat in a drain-to-waste application but not with anything using a reservoir. That being said, since both coco and peat are inert with no nutrient value, I also asked them to clarify how the microbes in the mix would come into play, if they would at all.
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i'm in hempy. can't get more soilless other than straight water.
wonder if it would fly in that style. i run it straight perlite these days without any vermiculite.
 
Mr. Krip said:
I agree 420% that BOTH coco and peat are soilless (unless, of course, they're mixed with soil). I've asked GeoFlora to clarify their answer. I suspect, based on their original answer, that it will work fine with coco or peat in a drain-to-waste application but not with anything using a reservoir. That being said, since both coco and peat are inert with no nutrient value, I also asked them to clarify how the microbes in the mix would come into play, if they would at all.
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Happy to clarify here Mr. Krip! You are spot on with your guess - Geoflora pairs well with soil and inert soil-less media like coco and peat, which actively benefit beneficial bacteria populations due to the high presence of lignins in these materials, which are readily degraded by aerobic bacteria and contribute to the humic content in the medium. These blends also provide good aeration (especially when combined with fabric pots), helping support aerobic bacteria populations. As you noted, we generally do not recommend utilizing Geoflora in a strictly reservoir based system - it is not fully water soluble, and this method does not allow enough time to fully breakdown those slower releasing nutrients.

The breakdown process is aided first by moisture, and second by the presence of bacteria in our blend which break down the nutrients into available forms. When using soilless blends with Geoflora, the best practice is to maintain a moist growing media to keep the bacteria happy and consistently breaking down that organic matter and solubilizing nutrients.

In practice, this really doesnt look much different from what you would do with any other soil-less or soil based grow system. So long as there is some moisture present, and a stable consistent source of organic material (like that provided by Geoflora) our bacteria are constantly working to break those nutrients down.

Hopefully this helps clarify some of the confusion!
 
GeoFlora Nutrients said:
Happy to clarify here Mr. Krip! You are spot on with your guess - Geoflora pairs well with soil and inert soil-less media like coco and peat, which actively benefit beneficial bacteria populations due to the high presence of lignins in these materials, which are readily degraded by aerobic bacteria and contribute to the humic content in the medium. These blends also provide good aeration (especially when combined with fabric pots), helping support aerobic bacteria populations. As you noted, we generally do not recommend utilizing Geoflora in a strictly reservoir based system - it is not fully water soluble, and this method does not allow enough time to fully breakdown those slower releasing nutrients.

The breakdown process is aided first by moisture, and second by the presence of bacteria in our blend which break down the nutrients into available forms. When using soilless blends with Geoflora, the best practice is to maintain a moist growing media to keep the bacteria happy and consistently breaking down that organic matter and solubilizing nutrients.

In practice, this really doesnt look much different from what you would do with any other soil-less or soil based grow system. So long as there is some moisture present, and a stable consistent source of organic material (like that provided by Geoflora) our bacteria are constantly working to break those nutrients down.

Hopefully this helps clarify some of the confusion!
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so no hempy style ... or on the fence ?


hempy is reservoir but not "strictly" - small res at the bucket bottom frequently changed - and it is extremely neutral.

darn. sorry for the thread crapping krip.
could be answering a whole bunch of this over in my thread soon lol .. :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
bluter said:
so no hempy style ... or on the fence ?


hempy is reservoir but not "strictly" - small res at the bucket bottom frequently changed - and it is extremely neutral.

darn. sorry for the thread crapping krip.
could be answering a whole bunch of this over in my thread soon lol .. :cheesygrinsmiley:
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I would say that our product is likely best for top watering/drip applications - especially when top dressing to replenish the nutrient supply. A wicking system like a hempy style wouldn't be ideal, but it could be done by using a heavy amendment and a transplant into the bucket as flowering begins - might have to run an experiment!
 
Very interesting thread Mr. Krip. Good job Sir!


I always equated organic grows with compost piles and compost teas so I find this modern two-part Geoflora approach both unforeseen and intriguing. Because of my false notion of organic, I googled what organic is;

“Organic fertilizers are derived from materials that occur in nature, whereas nonorganic or synthetic fertilizers are manufactured in a chemical plant. Organic fertilizers are commonly composed of livestock or fish byproducts or other decomposed organic matter”.


I was kind of wondering what the benefit of growing cannabis organically was and these are some of the answers Google gave me.

Is chemical fertilizer harmful to humans?

The environmental issues of using chemical fertilizers are bad, and they will take many years to address. However, an immediate concern with chemical fertilizers is the effect on human health. At the very least, food crops produced using chemical fertilizers may not be as nutritious as they should be.Dec 7, 2017

What are the harmful effects of using excessive fertilizers?

Waterway pollution, chemical burn to crops, increased air pollution, acidification of the soil and mineral depletion of the soil are the adverse effects of chemical fertilizers.


So depending on your results I may consider switching from chemical-based fertilizers to organic after seeing how simple it is and its benefits.


I have read every post in this thread several times but I cannot see what kind of growing medium you are using Mr. Krip? You say you prefer soil but I’m not sure what you are referring to?
 
Thanks, Brother! :thanks:

You pretty much got most of the benefits of organic nutes there but I will add that having grown with both organic and synthetic nutes, I definitely prefer the flavor and smell of organic.

I am growing in soil - HP Pro-Mix and worm castings left to cook for about 3 months.
 
Homer Simpson said:
Very interesting thread Mr. Krip. Good job Sir!


I always equated organic grows with compost piles and compost teas so I find this modern two-part Geoflora approach both unforeseen and intriguing. Because of my false notion of organic, I googled what organic is;

“Organic fertilizers are derived from materials that occur in nature, whereas nonorganic or synthetic fertilizers are manufactured in a chemical plant. Organic fertilizers are commonly composed of livestock or fish byproducts or other decomposed organic matter”.


I was kind of wondering what the benefit of growing cannabis organically was and these are some of the answers Google gave me.

Is chemical fertilizer harmful to humans?

The environmental issues of using chemical fertilizers are bad, and they will take many years to address. However, an immediate concern with chemical fertilizers is the effect on human health. At the very least, food crops produced using chemical fertilizers may not be as nutritious as they should be.Dec 7, 2017

What are the harmful effects of using excessive fertilizers?

Waterway pollution, chemical burn to crops, increased air pollution, acidification of the soil and mineral depletion of the soil are the adverse effects of chemical fertilizers.


So depending on your results I may consider switching from chemical-based fertilizers to organic after seeing how simple it is and its benefits.


I have read every post in this thread several times but I cannot see what kind of growing medium you are using Mr. Krip? You say you prefer soil but I’m not sure what you are referring to?
Click to expand...

Another great feature to organic growing is being able to reuse your soil. Because we are not using chemical fertilizers, and the bacteria we are using has remediating properties, the resulting alkaline level in the soil is extremely low post harvest, especially with the 2 week period prior to harvest where there is no additional geoflora added. This means you can chop, flush the media a few times, and then treat with an enzyme product to breakdown any undesirable root material that may be remaining and you're off to the races again.
 
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