3rd Grow Going Wrong

NewbieRick

420 Member
Greetings Grow Community,

This is my wife and I 3rd grow and this is where we are. Seeking suggestions on getting our plants back green.

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Greetings Grow Community,

This is my wife and I 3rd grow and this is where we are. Seeking suggestions on getting our plants back green.

IMG_1287.jpeg


IMG_1288.jpeg


IMG_1289.jpeg


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Good morning my friend hope you are doing well today.
We need the details to properly assist.
But your light is too high or set too low of a setting :Namaste:
Your stretching for light.
Topping or lst might help.
Ok soil or coco? Nutrients? Feed schedule? Ppms? Ph? Rh? Lights? Temps?
Any other relevant info will help.
Take care.
Talk soon.




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284 😎
 
Welcome to the forum, that plant can definitely be greened back up, although the damaged leaves may not fully recover. Without more info it's difficult to offer help. There's big differences between growing in coco vs soil. In coco, measuring PH runoff and PPM (EC) is valuable. In soil, particularly bagged soil, PPM/EC is relatively unimportant, and chasing runoff PH will lead you down the "rabbit hole". At first blush, the leaves are showing early signs of Potassium and/or Nitrogen deficiency, but if you can answer a few questions it will narrow things down.
What media are you growing in?
What nutes organic/synthetic/brand, are you using (how often, at what strength)?
What is the PH of the water and/or nute solution going in?
What type/wattage of light and how high above the plant?
What is the Relative Humidity in the grow space?
 
Welcome to the forum, that plant can definitely be greened back up, although the damaged leaves may not fully recover. Without more info it's difficult to offer help. There's big differences between growing in coco vs soil. In coco, measuring PH runoff and PPM (EC) is valuable. In soil, particularly bagged soil, PPM/EC is relatively unimportant, and chasing runoff PH will lead you down the "rabbit hole". At first blush, the leaves are showing early signs of Potassium and/or Nitrogen deficiency, but if you can answer a few questions it will narrow things down.
What media are you growing in?
What nutes organic/synthetic/brand, are you using (how often, at what strength)?
What is the PH of the water and/or nute solution going in?
What type/wattage of light and how high above the plant?
What is the Relative Humidity in the grow space?
@Phytoplankton I'm sorry my friend I tend to dis agree with what you say about pH and run off sorry but I do the runoff check which is for ec (electrical conductivity) Not pH and that's only if you have problems you can't figure out with pH weather soil or coco or hydro or nuits in my case dry amendment and if I do have problems first thing I do is I check pH in soil and I make sure pH in my water is 6.8/7.0 living soil and I do soil testing. Here's the results✌️....... i test pH with the meter in the pic not run off!

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IMG_20230611_113140.jpg


IMG_20230609_085513.jpg


IMG_20230613_150437.jpg


IMG_20230616_135211.jpg
 
@Phytoplankton I'm sorry my friend I tend to dis agree with what you say about pH and run off sorry but I do the runoff check which is for ec (electrical conductivity) Not pH and that's only if you have problems you can't figure out with pH weather soil or coco or hydro or nuits in my case dry amendment and if I do have problems first thing I do is I check pH in soil and I make sure pH in my water is 6.8/7.0 living soil and I do soil testing. Here's the results✌️....... i test pH with the meter in the pic not run off!

IMG_20230612_115914.jpg


IMG_20230611_113140.jpg


IMG_20230609_085513.jpg


IMG_20230613_150437.jpg


IMG_20230616_135211.jpg
We'll have to agree to disagree.
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Seeking suggestions on getting our plants back green.
Welcome to the group.

Do not worry. The group can give several good tips that will help to get the plants back to a healthy green.

I do not know for sure how many plants you have going but it looks like two tall ones. The reason the plants have so many leaves that are turning yellow is that the plant is already larger than the soil and soil micro-organism can handle.

My first suggestion is to transplant to a larger pot using a decent soil. Those pots look like a standard 1 or 1 1/2 gallon size and they should've been in a 3 gallon about 3-4 weeks ago. And, a 5 gallon pot would have been better.

But your light is too high or set too low of a setting :Namaste:
Your stretching for light.
Topping or lst might help.
Phytoplankton also brought up the lights. Definitely think about ways to raise and lower the lights or raise and lower the plants as they grow. I can see sections of the plant where the nodes are closer together which is better than the sections where the nodes are several inches or more apart.

Occasionally I end up with a couple of plants that are too tall and I will end up topping them and then transplanting into the final size pot 2 or 3 weeks before putting them into the flowering tent. I would pick a spot about half way up and cut there and then transplant. Topping them just before transplanting will make the transplanting process a bit easier. You could try rooting the portion that is cut off if you want and maybe end up with a clone.

At first blush, the leaves are showing early signs of Potassium and/or Nitrogen deficiency,
Good point. A suggestion is to pick a line of fertilizers you will feel comfortable with and start to use that. At first treat the plants as if they are showing a deficiency of both.

There's big differences between growing in coco vs soil. In coco, measuring PH runoff and PPM (EC) is valuable. In soil, particularly bagged soil, PPM/EC is relatively unimportant, and chasing runoff PH will lead you down the "rabbit hole".
I agree with Phytoplankton even though a fellow Michigander says otherwise;). He does live on the other side of the state and all that. But then they have some excellent craft beer breweries over there which is a positive:).

Picking up on some of basics first will tell you if going down the rabbit hole in a soil type of grow will be helpful or not. Many growers end up with good quantity and quality just using the basics. Learning the basics first help understand and use the more technical aspects of growing.

@NewbieRick, tell us a bit more about the soil mix you are currently using, whether you already have a line of fertilizers picked out, and do you have a watering schedule or a way of telling when it is time to water.
 
I use a digital Blumat moisture meter actually I have 2 to measure moisture tension 80-120 mb and a Blue lab soil pH pen both a must have for a garden in my opinion but use KIS organic in Washington St who is my go to for All my amendments ,beneficial insects and soil testing and analysis needs
I mix ,home grown worm casting,all dry amendment,Bio char, Bokashi,
k- mag fish meal bone meal,azomite, crushed oyster shell, insect frass, and for watering adjust pH to 6.8/-7./0after adding liquid inputs I I ferment Em-1 in molasses, silica Agisil 16 ,stand alone nothing else in the watering can when using silica,Pacific Gro Bio char fish and that's it at the start of my mix I might add some mycorrhizae indoors I use a 4×8 grass roots bed covered in all natural wood chips I double dig when starting a run with 3+ y/o soil for outside just old soil from the year before with above mix @ a6.8 /7.0 pH in the soil after adding said above recipe. That's my recipe Keep It Simple KIS!✌️ forgot to add ag lime for pH up sulfur for ph down in the soil citric acid for pH down in water and baking soda for pH up ✌️

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IMG_20230613_150437.jpg
 
Welcome to the group.

Do not worry. The group can give several good tips that will help to get the plants back to a healthy green.

I do not know for sure how many plants you have going but it looks like two tall ones. The reason the plants have so many leaves that are turning yellow is that the plant is already larger than the soil and soil micro-organism can handle.

My first suggestion is to transplant to a larger pot using a decent soil. Those pots look like a standard 1 or 1 1/2 gallon size and they should've been in a 3 gallon about 3-4 weeks ago. And, a 5 gallon pot would have been better.


Phytoplankton also brought up the lights. Definitely think about ways to raise and lower the lights or raise the plants up closer to the lights as they grow. I can see sections of the plant where the nodes are closer together which is better than the sections where the nodes are several inches or more apart.

Occasionally I end up with a couple of plants that are too tall and I will end up topping them and then transplanting into the final size pot 2 or 3 weeks before putting them into the flowering tent. I would pick a spot about half way up and cut there and then transplant. Topping them just before transplanting will make the transplanting process a bit easier. You could try rooting the portion that is cut off if you want and maybe end up with a clone.


Good point. A suggestion is to pick a line of fertilizers you will feel comfortable with and start to us that. At first treat the plants as if they are showing a deficiency of both.


I agree with Phytoplankton even though a fellow Michigander says otherwise;). He does live on the other side of the state and all that. But then they have some excellent craft beer breweries over there which is a positive:).

Picking up on some of basics first will tell you if going down the rabbit hole in a soil type of grow will be helpful or not. Many growers end up with good quantity and quality just using the basics. Learning the basics first help understand and use the more technical aspects of growing.

@NewbieRick, tell us a bit more about the soil mix you are currently using, whether you already have a line of fertilizers picked out, and do you have a watering schedule or a way of telling when it is time to water.
There's a lot of bang for your buck in this!
 
@Phytoplankton I'm sorry my friend I tend to dis agree with what you say about pH and run off sorry but I do the runoff check which is for ec (electrical conductivity) Not pH and that's only if you have problems you can't figure out with pH weather soil or coco or hydro or nuits in my case dry amendment and if I do have problems first thing I do is I check pH in soil and I make sure pH in my water is 6.8/7.0 living soil and I do soil testing. Here's the results✌️....... i test pH with the meter in the pic not run off!

IMG_20230612_115914.jpg


IMG_20230611_113140.jpg


IMG_20230609_085513.jpg


IMG_20230613_150437.jpg


IMG_20230616_135211.jpg
I second that and I totally agree with you @MITCHELL FLORN. Leachates matters no matter the substrate IMO. It's always a good indicator of what's going on in the medium. Proper soil pH meters are more than great and feels like cheating growing in containers. They work really well with solutions to! I need to buy me a new one but its not easy finding parts or new for reasonable prices around here.

OT:
I think we need like everyone suggested more info to be able to help. Like what youre feeding her, when did you transplant and with what? How often do you water and do you measure your runoff? Do you have you room in check? Do you control temperature and relative humidity?

By the looks of it its Mg def, that could be from being fed to much light or not having enough Mg in the medium. But we need more info, otherwise its just guesswork.

Cheers!
 
Ic talk of micro organisms on here remember in living soil you are feeding the soil not the plants the microbes feed the plants though the signals of the exudates the plants roots put out that's why pH is so important some micr organisms don't live out side of a certain pH range a must read for any living soil or organic soil growers IMO✌️

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You'll find different ideas for lighting here an maybe a argument or 2 😂😂 on the subject but here's my environmental controls and lighting the led cores for clones, bean's,and Early veg, the 2/630 LEC's late veg Early flower. Gavita control 3/Gavita 750 flex for late flower and finish on adjustable hangers about 15" - 18" off the canopy give or take
I remember using T12'S and a old factory metal halide until they didn't have switchable ballast in those days& Man that thing was HEAVY & NOISY under the basement stairs 😂😂😂
I do my lighting in stages now as I do potting I tend to overwater when I transplant in to big of pot early on and environmental controls is important to just an old Titan I've had for years but here's a different idea of equipment we all have our own set up and training the flowers a green Kush harvested last week drying and curing as we speak 😎
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IMG_20230618_065334.jpg
 
You'll find different ideas for lighting here an maybe a argument or 2 😂😂 on the subject but here's my environmental controls and lighting the led cores for clones, bean's,and Early veg, the 2/630 LEC's late veg Early flower. Gavita control 3/Gavita 750 flex for late flower and finish on adjustable hangers about 15" - 18" off the canopy give or take
I remember using T12'S and a old factory metal halide until they didn't have switchable ballast in those days& Man that thing was HEAVY & NOISY under the basement stairs 😂😂😂
I do my lighting in stages now as I do potting I tend to overwater when I transplant in to big of pot early on and environmental controls is important to just an old Titan I've had for years but here's a different idea of equipment we all have our own set up and training the flowers a green Kush harvested last week drying and curing as we speak 😎
IMG_20230618_063603.jpg


IMG_20230618_063455.jpg


IMG_20230618_063509.jpg


IMG_20230618_063539.jpg


IMG_20230618_063351.jpg


IMG_20230618_063354.jpg


IMG_20230618_061432.jpg


IMG_20230618_065334.jpg

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IMG_20230618_065350.jpg
 
Until we get some details, we're pretty much guessing
I know exactly what I think I'm seeing, but need OP to confirm my thoughts
 
Welcome to the group.

Do not worry. The group can give several good tips that will help to get the plants back to a healthy green.

I do not know for sure how many plants you have going but it looks like two tall ones. The reason the plants have so many leaves that are turning yellow is that the plant is already larger than the soil and soil micro-organism can handle.

My first suggestion is to transplant to a larger pot using a decent soil. Those pots look like a standard 1 or 1 1/2 gallon size and they should've been in a 3 gallon about 3-4 weeks ago. And, a 5 gallon pot would have been better.


Phytoplankton also brought up the lights. Definitely think about ways to raise and lower the lights or raise and lower the plants as they grow. I can see sections of the plant where the nodes are closer together which is better than the sections where the nodes are several inches or more apart.

Occasionally I end up with a couple of plants that are too tall and I will end up topping them and then transplanting into the final size pot 2 or 3 weeks before putting them into the flowering tent. I would pick a spot about half way up and cut there and then transplant. Topping them just before transplanting will make the transplanting process a bit easier. You could try rooting the portion that is cut off if you want and maybe end up with a clone.


Good point. A suggestion is to pick a line of fertilizers you will feel comfortable with and start to use that. At first treat the plants as if they are showing a deficiency of both.


I agree with Phytoplankton even though a fellow Michigander says otherwise;). He does live on the other side of the state and all that. But then they have some excellent craft beer breweries over there which is a positive:).

Picking up on some of basics first will tell you if going down the rabbit hole in a soil type of grow will be helpful or not. Many growers end up with good quantity and quality just using the basics. Learning the basics first help understand and use the more technical aspects of growing.

@NewbieRick, tell us a bit more about the soil mix you are currently using, whether you already have a line of fertilizers picked out, and do you have a watering schedule or a way of telling when it is time to water.
IMG_1244.jpeg

Here is what I’m using. I have no dedicated water schedule. Normally I pick up each pot. If the plants feel light, I water.
 
Welcome to the forum, that plant can definitely be greened back up, although the damaged leaves may not fully recover. Without more info it's difficult to offer help. There's big differences between growing in coco vs soil. In coco, measuring PH runoff and PPM (EC) is valuable. In soil, particularly bagged soil, PPM/EC is relatively unimportant, and chasing runoff PH will lead you down the "rabbit hole". At first blush, the leaves are showing early signs of Potassium and/or Nitrogen deficiency, but if you can answer a few questions it will narrow things down.
What media are you growing in?
What nutes organic/synthetic/brand, are you using (how often, at what strength)?
What is the PH of the water and/or nute solution going in?
What type/wattage of light and how high above the plant?
What is the Relative Humidity in the grow space?
IMG_1244.jpeg

Feeding plants above. I feed plants when pots feel light. Growing in soil, only using Fox Farm. Need guidance on checking runoff as I’ve never checked it. p
Welcome to the group.

Do not worry. The group can give several good tips that will help to get the plants back to a healthy green.

I do not know for sure how many plants you have going but it looks like two tall ones. The reason the plants have so many leaves that are turning yellow is that the plant is already larger than the soil and soil micro-organism can handle.

My first suggestion is to transplant to a larger pot using a decent soil. Those pots look like a standard 1 or 1 1/2 gallon size and they should've been in a 3 gallon about 3-4 weeks ago. And, a 5 gallon pot would have been better.


Phytoplankton also brought up the lights. Definitely think about ways to raise and lower the lights or raise and lower the plants as they grow. I can see sections of the plant where the nodes are closer together which is better than the sections where the nodes are several inches or more apart.

Occasionally I end up with a couple of plants that are too tall and I will end up topping them and then transplanting into the final size pot 2 or 3 weeks before putting them into the flowering tent. I would pick a spot about half way up and cut there and then transplant. Topping them just before transplanting will make the transplanting process a bit easier. You could try rooting the portion that is cut off if you want and maybe end up with a clone.


Good point. A suggestion is to pick a line of fertilizers you will feel comfortable with and start to use that. At first treat the plants as if they are showing a deficiency of both.


I agree with Phytoplankton even though a fellow Michigander says otherwise;). He does live on the other side of the state and all that. But then they have some excellent craft beer breweries over there which is a positive:).

Picking up on some of basics first will tell you if going down the rabbit hole in a soil type of grow will be helpful or not. Many growers end up with good quantity and quality just using the basics. Learning the basics first help understand and use the more technical aspects of growing.

@NewbieRick, tell us a bit more about the soil mix you are currently using, whether you already have a line of fertilizers picked out, and do you have a watering schedule or a way of telling when it is time to water.
Lighting - 2 HLG 300L Rspec
Soil - Fox Farm Potting Soil
Ph - 6.3
Water schedule - when pots feel light
Below is what I feed when watering
 
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