15-day-old seedlings with spots on leaves

Thanks for confirming. So, it's not necessarily true that you can't transplant young autos. One needs to use care not to damage roots or otherwise stress the plant, which in entirely doable. Autos are more sensitive than photos, because they're on their own schedule. 🙏
Yes. If you keep poking around the message board there are many growers who have successfully transplanted, trained, or trimmed their autoflowers successfully. And they have some nice looking plants and a good amount of buds judging by their photos.

I can understand the fascination many new gardeners have with trying to grow autoflowers. No worry about length of light and dark. No need for extra adjusting of a timer so that there is 12 hours of non interrupted dark. But, make a simple mistake while transplanting or in a watering schedule and the plant does not stop the clock while recovering.
 
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Good day @LoveCannabis61,

I think there's something systemically not right with your situation... light, humidity, temperature, water, nutrients, pH. I'm not sure what it is. For comparison purposes, I hope this helps...

Here's some plants I'm running, photos... what they looked like at 3 weeks, in 1 gal. pots. This is a mixture of sativas, indicas, and 50/50 hybrids. They are stretching for the light due to seasonal low sunlight.

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The environment is warm (daytime ~75-80F) and high humidity (~68-95+). Natural sunlight... not a lot of it in Nov/Dec when these were started. Grown in a balanced custom-made living soil mix, with plenty of NPK and micro-nutrients. Watering on a strict wet/dry cycle, with rainwater. Soil mix includes plenty of coco coir, perlite, and home-grown worm castings. I add mycorrhizal fungi in the hole when I'm up potting (a product called Mykos).

Here they are, recently, at about 9 weeks later. Sunlight conditions improved over the weeks. Most are in 5 gal or 6.5 gal pots. The largest are 2 female sativas, 5.5 ft tall after being topped (left/rear), and 2 male sativas towering on the right in 2 gal pots (grown for pollen). The indicas and hybrids are more toward the front.

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:tommy::morenutes:
 
Your temp it says 16 c.
Roots do not grow or eat properly below 18c.
So improving pot temp would help.
Are you feeding them anything?




#VIVOSUN #Love What You Grow
Bill284 😎
 
Your temp it says 16 c.
Roots do not grow or eat properly below 18c.
So improving pot temp would help.
Are you feeding them anything?
Good eye, Bill. 60°F... that's very chilly. Humidity is only 60% as well.

One thought... the mass of all that soil will be much harder to bring up to temp, as opposed to 1 gal pots. As Wings pointed out, transplant is possible if carefully done.
 
You can't repot for autoflowering plants bro, it gets stressed, it blooms early, the harvest is low, its head is back

You most certainly can transplant autos.. Transplants are simple and effective at smaller sizes.. We have many experienced gardeners here who consistently transplant their auto plants. Transplanting from a solo cup (or 1 gallon some prefer) without shocking is one of the easiest things to do and will greatly increase your autos grow rate and size.

Once you pass solo/1 gallon though it gets dicey unless you’re really experienced with transplanting.

The transplant itself isn’t what shocks plants and causes them to stunt. It’s a mistake made by the gardener during the process that shocks them. Whether it’s damaging the roots, exposing them to too much light, or transplanting too early/too late. A transplant can be done without shock, it just takes practice.
 
That’s a huge pot of soil to become light in only 3 days time…but it’s prolly either one of the other, that its greatly underwatered or overwatered. I’m going with overwatered for now but heck I’ve bee; wrong before. Your plants are tiny (no offense intended) and they simply dont need that much water every 3 days… more water does not mean more growth or faster growth. For now you need to learn wet dry cycle. For most soil types roots can’t breathe in continuously wet or damp soil.

Yes your girls needs oxygen down into root zone. Also never water a wet soil or a wet plant… don’t water where your roots are - water where you want them to grow. If possible elevate those pot racks and have fan pushing air underneath.

suggest using long wooden dowel that will reach to the bottom of your container. Press it in at an angle, go from outside edge towards the bottom center just below the rootball, see crappy diagram below. It’s very important for dipstick to hit bottom… leave in place for an hour or two. Its a cheapie moisture meter - pull it out to read the dipstick. There should be visible mark or wet spot on dipstick indicating moisture level in your grow bag.

another method is fill same size grow bag with same soil mix but do not add water. Weigh it on a scale and compare weight with your pots that have plants & soil. The plant itself weighs nothing- the difference is the water weight.

not an auto grower but BooWho2 transplants and tops her autos on the same day.

if the soil is warm it could be still cooking… internal thermal process.

 
That’s a huge pot of soil to become light in only 3 days time…but it’s prolly either one of the other, that its greatly underwatered or overwatered.
There are multiple possible issues with this grow... trying to narrow it down.

@LoveCannabis61, what strain of auto is this? Just curious.

Are you watering the whole pot, or just the area around the plant? What kind of water are you using... filtered, tap water, etc.? To rule out water issues, I think they should be in 1 gal until they are well established. Since they are so small, you could transfer them to 1 gal by taking a scoop of soil and the whole plant, not even exposing the roots. They'll never know what happened :-)

Re: Lights – Are you back with 600w now? If the soil feels warm or hot, I think you've got too much light, too close. If they were in 1 gal, you could have them in a tight cluster, and then a lower-wattage light directly above them. If this was my grow, that's exactly what I'd be doing.

Re: Humidity – seems like you need more humidity, at least 70%, but this depends on the air temperature and the heat being produced by the lights. I'm actually not an indoor grower, so I'll defer to others on this.

How are we doing? ...

light (?), humidity (?), ✅temperature, water (?), nutrients (?), soil pH (?).

My next question... what is the composition of your soil? Is it peat moss based? What does it contain? Do you know the NPK of the soil (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium)? Can you test the pH of the soil?

You said you are feeding CalMag and nitrogen. Cannabis needs NPK as well as micro-nutrients. Micro-nutrients: calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), sulfur (S), zinc (Zn). Keep in mind that Fe, Zn, Mn are interrelated plant nutrients affecting uptake/use of N and S. Lack of N = yellowing. Lack of S = yellowing.

:morenutes:
 
There are multiple possible issues with this grow... trying to narrow it down.

@LoveCannabis61, what strain of auto is this? Just curious.

Are you watering the whole pot, or just the area around the plant? What kind of water are you using... filtered, tap water, etc.? To rule out water issues, I think they should be in 1 gal until they are well established. Since they are so small, you could transfer them to 1 gal by taking a scoop of soil and the whole plant, not even exposing the roots. They'll never know what happened :)

Re: Lights – Are you back with 600w now? If the soil feels warm or hot, I think you've got too much light, too close. If they were in 1 gal, you could have them in a tight cluster, and then a lower-wattage light directly above them. If this was my grow, that's exactly what I'd be doing.

Re: Humidity – seems like you need more humidity, at least 70%, but this depends on the air temperature and the heat being produced by the lights. I'm actually not an indoor grower, so I'll defer to others on this.

How are we doing? ...

light (?), humidity (?), ✅temperature, water (?), nutrients (?), soil pH (?).

My next question... what is the composition of your soil? Is it peat moss based? What does it contain? Do you know the NPK of the soil (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium)? Can you test the pH of the soil?

You said you are feeding CalMag and nitrogen. Cannabis needs NPK as well as micro-nutrients. Micro-nutrients: calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), sulfur (S), zinc (Zn). Keep in mind that Fe, Zn, Mn are interrelated plant nutrients affecting uptake/use of N and S. Lack of N = yellowing. Lack of S = yellowing.

:morenutes:
1-dear friend bought seed RQS 2-I water around the plant in a circle shape 3- I let the tap water rest for 2 days and water it. 4-Light 250w mh took it out and installed 600w dual spectrum 70 cm light distance.
 
These are the foods, the humidity is between 50 and 70, the temperature drops to max 28 at night at night, how can we save these girls bro? :(
 
There are multiple possible issues with this grow... trying to narrow it down.

@LoveCannabis61, what strain of auto is this? Just curious.

Are you watering the whole pot, or just the area around the plant? What kind of water are you using... filtered, tap water, etc.? To rule out water issues, I think they should be in 1 gal until they are well established. Since they are so small, you could transfer them to 1 gal by taking a scoop of soil and the whole plant, not even exposing the roots. They'll never know what happened :)

Re: Lights – Are you back with 600w now? If the soil feels warm or hot, I think you've got too much light, too close. If they were in 1 gal, you could have them in a tight cluster, and then a lower-wattage light directly above them. If this was my grow, that's exactly what I'd be doing.

Re: Humidity – seems like you need more humidity, at least 70%, but this depends on the air temperature and the heat being produced by the lights. I'm actually not an indoor grower, so I'll defer to others on this.

How are we doing? ...

light (?), humidity (?), ✅temperature, water (?), nutrients (?), soil pH (?).

My next question... what is the composition of your soil? Is it peat moss based? What does it contain? Do you know the NPK of the soil (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium)? Can you test the pH of the soil?

You said you are feeding CalMag and nitrogen. Cannabis needs NPK as well as micro-nutrients. Micro-nutrients: calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), sulfur (S), zinc (Zn). Keep in mind that Fe, Zn, Mn are interrelated plant nutrients affecting uptake/use of N and S. Lack of N = yellowing. Lack of S = yellowing.

:morenutes:
Everything is clear, write me a prescription, how would you save these plants if you were the doctor?
 
I'm sorry friend, I think we have some language barrier problems here... English/Czech.

Thanks for the photos.

Let's try again...

What is the strain (variety) of the autoflower seed?

The temp is 28 C at night? That's 82 F! You said "day 25 night 22", meaning day 77 F night 72 F. When the lights are on, what is the temp at the plant? 25C?

What is in the soil beside peat? Is it 100% peat? That could really explain a lot.
 
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