1080w LED Inferno

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Just dropped in to catch-up and... Sweet :trance: Bejeezus!
 
im happy to see the side by side has become popular among experienced growers. side by sides are always nice to compare products/methods but novice growers may mess up the results because they dont know what theyre doing.

im confident whatever method you choose you will be able to pull it off even if you are forced to tweak a few things.

Well said Thinkerr...

I second that comment.

Much respect Irish brotha
 
I have read this journal multiple times and finally went to pick up some osmocote plus or dm red but could only get Osmocote outdoor/indoor and Osmocote flower and vegetable...the flower and veg has a similar NPK to the DM red that you used so after reading a little bit of you and docbuds conversation about adding micro nutes to the CRFs, I was wondering if you think adding some GH floramicro to the Osmocote flower and veg (14-14-14) sounds reasonable? Thanks for taking the time to keep such a detailed and informative grow..this is also the reason i purchased a 180w GLH LED !!
 
Just dropped in to catch-up and... Sweet :trance: Bejeezus!

Well said Thinkerr...

I second that comment.

Much respect Irish brotha
thanks guys
I have read this journal multiple times and finally went to pick up some osmocote plus or dm red but could only get Osmocote outdoor/indoor and Osmocote flower and vegetable...the flower and veg has a similar NPK to the DM red that you used so after reading a little bit of you and docbuds conversation about adding micro nutes to the CRFs, I was wondering if you think adding some GH floramicro to the Osmocote flower and veg (14-14-14) sounds reasonable? Thanks for taking the time to keep such a detailed and informative grow..this is also the reason i purchased a 180w GLH LED !!

welcome my friend, and thanks for the kind words.

yes you will need to add at-least some Calcium or maybe even the DM mater Magic like i am doing on my new 480w grow. I can say if its going to work trouble free since i just started it, but i dont see why it wouldn't? you can also add Cal/Mag to the DM red and that should do it. its just dosent have cal in it and thats very important.

now as far as the OC 14-14-14 you will need to add some Micros for sure. if it were me and i was going to add some flora series i would just use the micro and bloom just like the Lucas formula. i dont think you would need the veg and extra Nitrogen in it. might be a bit too much? i cant say this will work but i dont see why it wouldn't, just be easy on the feeding so you dont over do it.

maybe the DM red and OC mixed will do ok with some added Cal/mag? these TRF are still new so its something you might have to play around with. check out my thread i posted some info i think will work great for these TRF's. use ur own judgement from what i am thinking and see if it makes sense to you? the link is in my sig on the bottom
 
Heres all my buds dried and curing for a little bit. RH% in the jars is 59-60% witch is where i want them, when u start going lower then that the curing will stop. 55% and ur buds will no longer cure. 60-65% is best and ready to be smoked. i no longer need to burp the jars where i am at. for you guys that dont know i use RH% meters to cure my buds, ive posted this info on 420 a few times and know a few of u that are now curing this way, and love it. its truly the best way to cure and get the best smoke IMO.

Anyways i just weighed all my premo buds not counting the shit load i had to toss because of those buds turning Hermi and not counting the popcorn buds that didnt get too much light. but i ended up with 587.3 grams witch has me kinda down because i lost allot of buds from them turning hermi on me. dont get me wrong its a shit load of meds for me, but i believe i can close to that on my 600w grow with 4 plants in 5 gal pots, so if that aspect it sucks. because i had more watts and 2 more plants in hydro, but the key factor is i had allot of issues on this grow from spider mites high temps, plants that wouldnt flower so i had to change the lights to 10/14 but still pulled over a pound in 100F+ weather. so i am thankful of that. I did weigh each group because of losing so much bud per plant from going hermi, it wasn't fair to me to weight each plant group. all plants did better then i expected with these TRF's. So dont let any one tell you leds or TRF cant grow good buds!! If they can this with all these problems them can grow damn good.

I am not sure what 587.3g is in oz's?

I should have a smoke report tomorrow.
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20 Oz?! Alright! Have you smoked any of the white top yet? I'm really interested in how it smokes, been reading a couple of threads about it and how it's a direct cause of the led being too close for a certain period of time.
 
Absolutely amazing! I couldn't imagine harvesting 20oz, nor 1000w+ of light for that matter. Now that this is near done, there is another big wattage LED (2 x 550s' on a mover) grow I've been following, I love the big wattage LED grows. Don't get me wrong, I know it takes more than wattage to grow primo plants, but it sure is fun watching plants get blasted be crazy amounts of light and nutrients!

Mr. Irish, you pulled out all the stops on this one! :bravo:
 
U could always store them in my room,its cool and dark!:) Hahah...
They all look amazing,and 20oz is crazy...good luck and happy smoking:ganjamon:
i am sure you wouldn't mind 1 bit?lol. lucky my room is cool and dark also:ganjamon:
thanks for the kind words my friend.
20 Oz?! Alright! Have you smoked any of the white top yet? I'm really interested in how it smokes, been reading a couple of threads about it and how it's a direct cause of the led being too close for a certain period of time.
no i threw away the white top. i didnt really want to try that when i have a ton of premo buds, didnt want to wake up with a 3rd nipple or something.lol
damn irish u amaze me man every time can u post a link to that curing process u speak of sounds fool proof(me) Thanks and congradulations:bravo:
cant post the link but ill past some of it

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrnMtnGrwr
Here's how I did it, doing my first dry/cure after reading this thread.

I cut the plants, and trimmed them. All of the drying was done in 45-55% RH and 70-75f. I hung them up in the cabinet I grew them in, lights off, with the ventilation still going. I had some inner air circulation fans during the grow but I turned them off for the dry. They were hanging up for 3-4 days and the outsides of the buds were feeling dried out, but the stems weren't quite snapping yet.

This is when I stripped the buds off the main stem and put them into jars. The humidity eventually rose to 65-72% so I took the tops off and let them sit. They quickly lowered to the ambient RH, around 55% () I then put the lids back on, and I've been doing this for a couple days now, and they're slowly stabilizing, and I'm extremely confident this will be a great cure. Once they're stable I'll be uploading a screenshot of a spreadsheet I've been tracking the humidity in the jars with, hopefully someone will find it useful/informative.
Another example from Chits:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chits
Just finished reading all the way through. Took a couple weeks. Presently trying this method and results good very good (so far).

Thank you Simon and so many others that made some really good suggestions to go along with it.

Maybe this will help someone, so I'll add my $0.02

Started drying about a week ago. Finally had it down to 68% (not stabil though) in the jars, but was not comfortable with it at that point. Looking for around 62%.
Presently we are into a week+ of damp / rainy weather. Ambient air is high 80 to mid-upper 90% RH. a little high for here, but not unusual.
How to get the jar below ambient was a issue for me. So I came up with a test.
1 gal. glass jar
1 lb. white rice
1 qt. jar of bud
2 paper lunch bags.

In the oven at 250 degrees for 45 min. to a hour with the paper lunch bags and rice. Idea is to dry it out as completely as possible.

Once out of the oven, Place bags and rice in gal. jar (loosely capped) to cool.

Okay, now fairly quickly remove contents from jar. Open 1 bag and add rice. Stand it up in the gal. jar. In other bag pour in the buds and install into bag of rice. Slip a hygrometer between outside bag & glass so you can see it's reading, and seal it all up. May take a bit of persistance to get it right where you want it. But go slow.
While aiming for 62%, when the hygrometer rises to 60% I'll put the bud back into it's cure jar and let stabilize. Repeat if needed. The meter will start out really low (being dry) and will rise as it draws moisture out of the bud. Suggest you try and stay right on top of it because it seems to work faster than I expected.
Starting with 72%, made this routine 2Xs and I'm almost perfectly stable at 63%. I may go 1 more time,, but I'll let it sit a day or so before determining that.
This was a spur of the moment idea. Seemed to work for a smaller grow anyways and I'm sure something could be changed or modified to be even better (easier/faster?). This was really flying-by-the-seat-of-the-pants as they say. (ie; not very scientific)
Anyways, living in the mold capital of the universe, I had to do something and relatively quickly. Seems to be working fine.

Absolutely amazing! I couldn't imagine harvesting 20oz, nor 1000w+ of light for that matter. Now that this is near done, there is another big wattage LED (2 x 550s' on a mover) grow I've been following, I love the big wattage LED grows. Don't get me wrong, I know it takes more than wattage to grow primo plants, but it sure is fun watching plants get blasted be crazy amounts of light and nutrients!

Mr. Irish, you pulled out all the stops on this one! :bravo:
thanks my friend!

yes ive been watching that one also, cool setup
 
Congrats irish that's a nice haul! I have a question about that curing method when you get the rh between 60-65 do you still need to burp? I just thought it sounds kinda high don't wanna risk mold

65% i would still burp at least once a day.

i like mine around 60% then i purple every 3-5 days. once i get it lower then 60% its can be left alone for a few weeks.

this is still new to me, i am just going by what worked for me on my last grow doing it this way with the best cured buds ive ever had. just dont let it get to 55% the cure will stop.
 
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