1000 Watt Water Cooled Grow

The MH bulb came in today and I hooked it up. If anyone is interested, it is a Growbright 1000 watt MH conversion which runs on a HPS ballast. Its color spectrum is 6500k and puts out 110,000 lumens. Its a tubular jacket about 3.125 inches in diameter. It was $65 from HTG. Also, one of my seeds has sprouted (Milky Way) and I am waiting on the other 3. The first L*D seed I tried to crack was probably a dud. I cracked another in about 36 hrs and potted it. I picked up a humidifier today as the humidity in the grow tent was around 25%...should improve once I hook up the duct fan I am waiting on -- should be here this week, ordered it from HTG.

Milky Way Sprout
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Room...1 gallon pots
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Also can anyone recommend a humidistat that I can plug the humidifier directly into and should I use a warm air or cool air humidifier? The humidifier I picked up today was a warm air vicks for $15, the cool air ones were about $30.
 
As for PH levels in soil grows, I was told to keep it between 6.3 and 6.8, and I've done that and my grow seems to be going really well so far.

The RO water I get for my plants comes at a PH of 5.8 to 6.0, so adding PH up is always needed. Usually only 1-2 drops per gallon when I'm giving the plants plain water. If nutes are being used, far more PH up is needed. When I add nutes (all Fox Farms), they REALLY drag the PH down, like into the mid 4's until I add enough PH up to get it back into the good range.

How do water cooled lights work? The water doesn't touch the bulb, does it? The one light I saw in your photos looked like there was a pair of tubes around the light that the water went between.
 
Hey dude A+ job! I am really interested in your water cooled light. Can we see some pictures of your reservoir and how you have it all routed and hooked up? Is it really better than air cooled? I spent all this money on 2 fans and a cool tube for my 1k. I also went with a 4x8x7 tent which I regret, its huge! I almost want to put 3 600 watters in there but have hesitated because of my heat issues. Wish you the best of luck!



CK
 
RandyL said:
As for PH levels in soil grows, I was told to keep it between 6.3 and 6.8, and I've done that and my grow seems to be going really well so far.

The RO water I get for my plants comes at a PH of 5.8 to 6.0, so adding PH up is always needed. Usually only 1-2 drops per gallon when I'm giving the plants plain water. If nutes are being used, far more PH up is needed. When I add nutes (all Fox Farms), they REALLY drag the PH down, like into the mid 4's until I add enough PH up to get it back into the good range.

How do water cooled lights work? The water doesn't touch the bulb, does it? The one light I saw in your photos looked like there was a pair of tubes around the light that the water went between.
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You are correct. There is an inner glass tube which houses the bulb and then one around it. The water flows through the two -- the fresca sol hold 1 gallon of water in between the glass. Thanks for the tip on the pH...I have a digi meter coming in this week.

ClarkKent said:
Hey dude A+ job! I am really interested in your water cooled light. Can we see some pictures of your reservoir and how you have it all routed and hooked up? Is it really better than air cooled? I spent all this money on 2 fans and a cool tube for my 1k. I also went with a 4x8x7 tent which I regret, its huge! I almost want to put 3 600 watters in there but have hesitated because of my heat issues. Wish you the best of luck!



CK
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Right now the reservoir is in a closet behind the tent, and I have the closet doors taped shut to keep the temp down...if i get in there to work on it I will put some pics up. It's actually really simple, just has 1 1/2 inch tube connected to the pump which runs to the light, and then another which takes the waste back to the reservoir. Right now I have horrible ventilation as I am using only passive intake at a 6 inch vent for the carbon filter/vortex fan and the temps run about 7-10 degrees above the outside temps, when I open the tent the temp quickly drops to ambient temperature. The glass housing is cool to the touch, the only heat comes from the light energy itself. I am hoping once I hook up my booster fan the temps will be on par with outside temps. The Fresca Sol cost me $257 shipped and I got an optional reflector which was $89. The Tubing was about $10 and a 550 gph pump was $35. So about $390 for a top of the line set up. You really don't need the reflector as the fresca sol will fit into most conventional reflectors or not use one at all which would bring the total down to $300...not bad if you ask me. The sell a wing reflector for it for $30.

--- I have had the fan off for over an hour and just checked the temp. It is 83 and the outside temp is 75...the light (1000w MH) is about 2 feet from the plants where the temperature probe is.

--- I turned the fan back on and after about 15 minutes checked the temperature again...it is now down to 78.2. Ambient temp is still 75...I had the tent pressing against the wall and the exhaust was basically blowing right into the wall...maybe a couple inches off it...think this might have been effecting my temps.

Thank you both for stopping by.
 
sldunn, I like the setup. Gives me flashbacks. The single seed centre packets, dvd case, tent set up on and on. I jumped into it with very similar stuff. Really diggin it.

I'd recommend moving that 1000w 4-5 feet away, or switch to a couple cfl's, home depot is full of good choices from $5-50. IMO that is a lot of light for seedlings, plus the extra heat, power, costs.......... Just don't want to see the seedlings dry out from heat, or not do so good because of the light. Save the big stuff for a few weeks into it when the seedlings/plants have 3-4 sets of leaves and can use all that blazing light. (Think of just waking up, do you want the sun in your face or do you wanna warm up to it) IMO

I run veg lights 24/4(days), 18/6 (1 day), 24/2(days). Every few days I shut the lights down for a rest period for my vegging plants. I think plants can use a rest period just like me, plus it does occur naturally at night. I know it is ok to run 24/7 until 12/12 but I think it adds to the health of my plants by giving them a rest period, that way they can catch up on any repairs needed, or strengthen what they built the previous period and don't have to just get worked to death.
 
FrostyBuds said:
sldunn, I like the setup. Gives me flashbacks. The single seed centre packets, dvd case, tent set up on and on. I jumped into it with very similar stuff. Really diggin it.

I'd recommend moving that 1000w 4-5 feet away, or switch to a couple cfl's, home depot is full of good choices from $5-50. IMO that is a lot of light for seedlings, plus the extra heat, power, costs.......... Just don't want to see the seedlings dry out from heat, or not do so good because of the light. Save the big stuff for a few weeks into it when the seedlings/plants have 3-4 sets of leaves and can use all that blazing light. (Think of just waking up, do you want the sun in your face or do you wanna warm up to it) IMO

I run veg lights 24/4(days), 18/6 (1 day), 24/2(days). Every few days I shut the lights down for a rest period for my vegging plants. I think plants can use a rest period just like me, plus it does occur naturally at night. I know it is ok to run 24/7 until 12/12 but I think it adds to the health of my plants by giving them a rest period, that way they can catch up on any repairs needed, or strengthen what they built the previous period and don't have to just get worked to death.
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I have actually been wondering about the lighting intensity myself. I took you advice and moved the light up. I'm a little over 5'7" and moved it to shoulder height...so it's about 4 feet up. Right now floros aren't really an option as I am trying to keep it simple, also don't really wanna spend the $$$ atm.
 
That should keep the area around the seedlings stable. Can't blame you for not wanting to spend more $$$. Gonna be a fun grow!!RoorRipRoorRip I'll be hanging out.
 
So I thought I would do a quick recap for those following along interested in the water cooled lights.

- The light is cool to the touch; the same temperature as the reservoir.
- Any heat generated is from the light energy itself and not the temperature of the bulb.
- In the 4x4x7 grow tent, unventilated, with an ambient room temperature of 75, the temperature is between 82-83.
- With poor ventilation the temperature is 78.
- I am currently running a 1000w MH bulb

--- The ventilation system I am using is simply to exchange the air in the tent, not to cool it. I am using a 4 inch vortex fan with a 190 cfm rating hooked to a 4 inch carbon filter. Currently the air is exiting out the top of the tent and being pulled in through another top vent. There really isn't that much air exchange below the top 2 feet of the tent - my temperature probe is at the bottom of the tent.

--- I am getting a booster fan to help with air intake. This fan will draw air in from the top of the tent (to hopefully achieve a uniform temperature inside and outside the tent) channel it though ducting and deposit at the bottom of the tent. The vortex will then draw it back up and out, circulating the air.

--- I would probably have significantly cooler temperature if I was to draw the air from ground level but I wish to maintain an equal temperature inside and outside the tent so that it can be controlled from the thermostat.

I will post some updated stats when the the booster fan is installed.
 
Both Mako Haze and Super Lemon Haze have sprouted. Still waiting on the L*D which was planted a day later than the others.

A bit of a dilemma, Super Lemon Haze still has it's seed coat. Wondering if I should try to remove it or let it do its own thing. Can't remember what I have read on the subject..
 
gunjababy said:
from what i hear they say leave it for a few days and see if it comes off on ts own, if not and the seedling is still growing remove CAREFULLY. IMO or that what "THEY SAY". LOL
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Yeah that's what I remember reading but wasn't sure if that was the consensus or just what some people practiced. Anyone else have an opinion?
 
yes, get either small sharp scissors or a razor blade and when the stem looks green and at the very least a tiny bit sturdy remove it OH SO VERY VERY GENTLY.

But only do it if you can obviously tell that it is growing deformed, just keep in mind any cuts you might accidentally make will affect your plants growth for the WHOLE cycle.

Its kinda scary, especially when you pretty much just paid $20 for that seed hahahahha.

GOOD LUCK!!!!


CK




p.s. Interesting idea about making your room temperature neutral. Being able to control your room with your house thermostat would be awesome!
 
sldunn01 said:
Both Mako Haze and Super Lemon Haze have sprouted. Still waiting on the L*D which was planted a day later than the others.

A bit of a dilemma, Super Lemon Haze still has it's seed coat. Wondering if I should try to remove it or let it do its own thing. Can't remember what I have read on the subject..
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:cheertwo:Mako:cheertwo:SLH, C'mon L.SD. I have very carefully removed the seed by using fingernails to pry it open until the hinge splits. It is a delicate procedure. Nature should do its job and it the shell should fall.
 
FrostyBuds said:
:cheertwo:Mako:cheertwo:SLH, C'mon L.SD. I have very carefully removed the seed by using fingernails to pry it open until the hinge splits. It is a delicate procedure. Nature should do its job and it the shell should fall.
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I looked in the pot and can see the L*D sprout, just hasn't broken the surface yet. On the seed coat, it's looking like its going to fall off on its own...we'll see tomorrow. Have you ever tried Congo Haze by kiwi? Would really like to get some but they only have regular seeds and I don't have the facilities to grow out 10 plants atm. I'd pay big buck to get my hands on some cuttings.
 
So I now have 4 baby girls! :slide: All of them look great but the SLH, that had the seed coat attached, both cotyledons are drooping. Not sure what caused this, but I don't think its too big of a deal.

Droopy Cotyledons
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