• Hi Emilya, hope you well.
    I Have a question :
    I have planted a lemon haze 3 month ago, I thought it is Autoflower but actually i hve found that it is periodic one :(
    So i did not any topping o fiming training on her ...Due to Autos do not like Training cause of getting stress.
    Now i have a beautiful Christmas tree, what can i do with it ? Cut the main tall one n clone it?
    Hi. I'm using Kind Soil. I have Happy Frog to add ontop this time. I usually do 5 gallon plastic containers. I think I'm going to use 10 gallon or at least 7 gallon containers this time. I just haven't grown any bud that came out good yet final results with this method yet. I must keep doing something wrong. Anyways my question is, how do I get the proper water source for this super soil, where the chlorine and or chloramine won't kill the microbes. Reverse Osmosis seems like the simple solution but I've read that this takes out needed minerals and chelates them from the soil/plant or something like this. I've also learned that you can bubble out chlorine but you can't get rid of chlromaine that way. You have to chemically detach it and even then you detach the chlorine from the ammonia molecule and the ammonia is still floating around? Will ascorbic acid aka vitamin or humic acid remove chloramine? Will adding acid every watering make the ph go off. Etc etc. Its a nightmare trying to figure out what's the right way to go about proper water.
    • Like
    Reactions: 6thsense
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Doc... RO is definitely the way to go, just have some calmag handy in case you need it... the magnesium in the tap water is the only mineral you will really miss by using the filtered water. You can treat tap water effectively too... the ascorbic acid trick does remove chlorine and chloramine. The small amount needed is not going to significantly change the pH of your water and in an organic grow, your need to adjust pH to a narrow range is not necessary... the only reason we adjust pH is for when we use synthetic nutes... you are not, so you don't need to adjust pH.
    Emilya ... I'm not sure if u will get this, but the last time I had a question after you answered it I literally had no more questions on the subject. I'm hoping you can help me with this problem I have now. I had just transplanted seedlings from solo cups to a 1 gal fabric pot. A few days later I noticed that a crazy amount of roots were coming through the bottom of the pots some of the roots longer than 5 or 6 inches... And that was only about 3 days after transplanting them.. it's been about 8 days now and the problem is getting worse... When I had transplanted them I had moved them under better lights and in a new tent plus I was having trouble keeping the temps down.... So for the first few days they looked stunted and I didn't no exactly why.. whether it was the heat the lights intensity or closeness or from the transplanting.... So I was kind of bummed out and was just patiently watching and making little Tweeks.... Now though even though they have only been in the new containers for a week I def have to transplant them again... I have already transplanted one of them a lot of roots were ripped off from the bottom but not even 24 hours later it is doing even better than before the second transplanting.... That one plant though didn't have as many roots coming out as some of the others... That being said it still has a ton coming out... I'm still nervous about how I am gonna transplant the rest of them part of me wants to cut the sides of the pot off and just replant the plant with the bottom of the pot still on in the new pot.... What do you think I should do? I'm not sure you will get this but if you do and you need pics I will send.... Thanks your the best
    • Like
    Reactions: Emilya Green
    RetiredRN
    RetiredRN
    @Emilya is another way to call her in a post so she will see it.
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Grimy... first let me say that just because some of the roots are coming out of the bottom, is NOT a valid reason to uppot. I know this is commonly believed, but it makes no sense when you realize that the reason we stay in the smaller containers is to force the plant to grow a rootball, completely filling that container before moving on to the next bigger size. You call the roots coming out a problem, but I do not. Just let those roots that hit the air die, and move on. When you make a lot of changes to a plant in a short amount of time, you can sometimes stunt it. Just slow down... you are moving at light speed compared to the plants. Cloth containers are cheap and anything less than 3 gallon size I just cut down two sides and peel the plant out of there. Larger containers that I want to re-use, I carefully roll the sides down until I expose the rootball. If you are trying to transplant too early, the soil will not hold together and its going to be a mess... the only way to do this would be to cut them out of there.
    So I would never consider transplanting until the plant has enough roots that it can drain that container of every bit of water you can get the soil to hold, in one day. If the plant has not reached that point, then it is not time to transplant.
    Thank you so much for commenting on my post, do you have a recommendation for running my tsw 2000 in a 4x4 tent? I've been having so much trouble finding a decent answer even mars hydro doesnt have a consistent answer for height and brightness
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I have never run one of those lights, so I have no idea how best to run it, sorry. I suggest getting a good light meter, because lighting needs change all throughout the grow.
    SmokeyB
    SmokeyB
    I run that light in a 3x3 bud
    Hi there! New user here, and I've been told that you are quite smart with organic nutes. I'm new to the game myself , and have No clue about nutes in general. I was told to try geo flora 2 part, any further information would be much appreciated! Thank you much!
    Thank you very kindly for all of the great literature you created in this space...Cheers!
    Hi. I decided to stop by, and say thank you for following me! How have you been? Long time since we’ve talked. Since the day Is stopped by your watering guide! I have this new outdoor grow journal going on. Come by, and check It out. You won’t be disspointed!
    Hi emilya,
    Im having a problem with watering, there starting to look over watered and really droopy. What can i do to help them get back to there healthy state? There in coco atm
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    all of my watering advice has to do with soil... I have never grown in coco, so I can only tell you what I have heard. I have heard that you can not overwater coco, and that some people water coco several times a day. My suggestion is to find one of the many how to grow in coco threads on this forum and read it from front to back. Good luck!
    Hey emilya, hope you doin well.
    Im having a problem with germination; i hve started two seeds in glass of water n paper towel method, at first both of them cracked n tap root popped out after 1 day one of the seeds tap root look a lil yellow color n shorter than other one, it seemed that the shell is too hard n not letting the tap root get out of the shell, then i i hve attempted a risky shiii... n tried to use a blade to help the seed to cut the shell, i hold the seed with my fingers n i saw the tap root fell down, not with blade, it fell Then I panicked n kept it in paper towel ‍♂️ Any hope?
    hi emilya,
    i am getting ready to start up my first grow using geoflora, does the geoflora add microbes or does the soil have them already, or both? it is also my first grow using full spectrum lighting and i saw it mentioned that extra cal mag may be needed using the full spectrum lights - is this your experience as well? are there any tips or pitfalls you could give using the geoflora?

    thanks billy
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Billy.... Geoflora has the microbes that come in with each watering. It does not matter if there are any in the soil or not. Some strains need extra cal or mag under good lights, and others don't. Only use extra when you see a need for it, not automatically. It is actually hard to remember when to apply the geoflora every two weeks... keep good track of your dates.
    Hi Emilya,

    From what i have read in your comments you seem to know quit a bit about the "Growing game" ...at least it gives me confidence in asking this question, i have always grown with just PH and EC Meters and had some great results however i'm looking for ways to up my game and i'm seriously considering buying a PPM Meter...Now because i'm totally new to growing using PPM i was looking for a bit of guidance about the values i need to adhere to and at what stage...Would you be willing to help me out a bit??

    Now i grow mainly from seeds under two TL T-5 bulbs until they are big enough to Flower at which stage they move under a HPS-400 Watt

    Hope this gives you enough to go on, if not just ask and i'll give the info to the best of my ability
    Thanks in advance and
    Greetings from Holland
    Purple H
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Greetings from Missouri Purple H! If you are growing in a water based system (hydro of any flavor) ppm is very important to you. Most hydro growers use filtered water so that they know exactly how much is in it as far as minerals go, and then a ppm reading can tell them pretty closely how many nutes are mixed in the water. Since water is the medium holding the nutrients, the ppm of the additions is useful information, however in soil, nutrients can be captured and held by the soil for later use and the soil is a buffer when it comes to the nutrients, so a ppm reading of either the input or the runoff is not nearly as useful. In soil most growers don't even own a ppm meter, and they simply add nutrients in so many ml/L and call it good.
    Now, you didn't say whether you were growing in soil or a hydro type system. If you are in hydro and have the need for measuring ec or ppm, I think you will find that one of them is usually more accurate than the other. I will leave it to you to do that research. If you are in soil, put the ec/ppm meter away, and in certain circumstances, you can also get rid of your pH meter. Growing weed does not need to be as difficult as some people like to make it seem.
    • Like
    Reactions: Rexer
    Purplehazer
    Purplehazer
    Ow i thought i mentioned i grew on Cocos ...Sorry about that:oops: and your right in my 30 years of growing experience i found that "keep it simple... stupid!!"usually works best

    Thanks and have a nice one
    Do I need to add cal mag if I’m growing autoflower in mother earth mixed with nature’s living super soil and great white
    BakedARea
    BakedARea
    :laugh: Nothing right now...I'm not growing anything yet! :nervous-guy: After issues the past 2 seasons, I really need to get my ass into proactive mode instead of waiting to see issues.
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Sorry, but there are some things that are best not being handled in a proactive way. The problem is that if there is too much magnesium in the soil, it blocks access to other very important nutrients. It would be easy to preload soil with enough Mg for the entire grow, but to do so would lockout potassium and calcium. All things in moderation... there is a reason we apply magnesium as a supplement, and why it is common to add calcium to the mix.
    BakedARea
    BakedARea
    Yeah...makes sense. Urgh...
    Hey Em,
    Was just thinking to companion plant some marigolds in my tent to keep away aphids (which I always seems to get). I havent seen any in the tent but just want to pre-empt any attacks for this grow.....what do you think?...Ab
    Hayron1088
    Hayron1088
    Old post I know but I just put three marigold plants in my 4x4 in there own pots and placed them in the corners. Does anyone think that I could put them in the pot with the…well pot lol. I know they improve soil drainage and a couple other small benefits but my question is, is it still beneficial to have them in the tent instead of in the same pot? I’m currently running 7 gal fabric pots but in a couple weeks I’ll be running 20 gal living soil beds. I know I can run them in those but would it be wise to do it in a 7 gallon fabric pot or smaller? I think this can be a very in depth discussion for this site!
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    it is the smell that they put off that drives away the bugs. In my outdoor veggie garden, I put a row of marigolds around the outer edges of the garden, and this really helps to keep my garden bug free. Same in a tent... as long as you have a pot of marigolds growing in there, it should provide the benefit. There is no need to have them fighting with cash crops in the same container.
    Hayron1088
    Hayron1088
    Thank you for that! I didn’t want to create a new post haha
    Hi Emilya - hope this post finds you well. Last night I read your response to someone who had been overwatering their plants in which you explained to them their errors and offered suggestions to correct. Great post. There was something in there that is SO simple and SO obvious that I would have never thought of it. I HAVE A SCALE. I look at it on my table in front of me every day. Well, like you mentioned, I have been "guessing" at when my little seedlings cup's are 100% dry, based on picking up the cups and figuring, "ok, this is what it weighed when it was dry." That's a losing proposition considering the underground wells and such that you discuss. Especially, I would think, when the pot is a Dixie cup and the margins are so small. I am certain I compromised my first grow for exactly those reasons, among many others, lol. So my plants wake up in about 20 minutes. I'm simply going to weigh a cup with the same soil against the weight this morning of my seedling cups. What could be simpler or more accurate? Simply wait until the numbers match, then water, right?

    So I'm wondering, cuz that just seems TOO easy and as a newbie that makes me a little nervous - is this a good way to determine when to water? It seems to be what you were alluding to in your post. I can't think of a better way now that you've pointed out the obvious. One of the elements of your genius is not overlooking the simple despite knowing the complex, and it is much appreciated that you share so willingly. I'm also a sapiosexual, so I dig your stuff on another level as well. (LOL, please take that in the humorous spirit in which it is intended, just trying to give you a morning chuckle...)

    Anyway, if there is a downside to this scale method, which I can use all the way until transplant (which is great), could you please let me know and/or tell me a better method?

    Thanks so much in advance!

    Jon
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Good morning Jon. You must have noticed that I am an early riser... I hadn't been here 5 minutes and you sent this note! I too am a sapiosexual... who doesn't love a good mind?

    Your idea of the scale is a good one, and I have a little postal scale that I use to weigh out bags that also works very well in weighing at the solo cup phase... any more soil than that, when wet, exceeds the scale's capacity. Set your tare on a cup of dry soil, and then measure your wet cup for water weight. What I learned of course is that the scale is more accurate than our human senses. When I am holding the cups trying to determine if all (or most) of the water weight is gone, I can easily overlook 50 - 75grams of water weight. If the soil is dry right down to that last inch of container, which is perfectly fine as a time to water because it has already pulled the needed oxygen all the way to the bottom, that little bit of water weight down there explains 50g of water out of a total of nearly 500grams in a saturated cup. The 10:1 rules applies, and it is fine to water at that point. As I advise when using a moisture meter to find the level of the water table, that last inch will never completely dry out because of capillary action around the roots and with the sides of the container, so the downside is that the scale can be a little too accurate, and can add some unnecessary time to your wet/dry cycle if you don't remember the special properties of that last inch of container.
    N
    Noobfarmer420
    Hello I recently read your comment over watering and just have a quick question. I was going to water from the bottom as to not have too much run off since I'm using a super soil, but will bottom water keep my plants from being over watered? In theory it's supposed to only take what it needs right?
    Hello Emilya my names is Julius. I am a struggling noob who just got his first plants to start veg and have a plant mostly full of yellow leaves , I just learned from you that I have been watering wrong so I'm in worse shape than I thought and I really need your help and guidance ... have you written any books of any kind that I could purchase for help? Thank you for any help you can provide In advance.
    P.s - As you can probably tell from my profile picture I am a super noob and I may not have to long to live with Whitney(my plant) and IM WORRIED SICK ...please help
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Every time I think my book is about ready to send to a publisher, something new comes out or I think of something else that I need to cover. I will have a book soon, but still no joy. The best thing you can do here to get lots of help is to start up a grow journal and document what you have going. That way you can post pictures and step by steps of how you got here, and several of our members will gladly jump in to help when they can. Best of all, you can easily call in one of us by using the @ to call us, like this: @heartconaway. Do that today so that I can see some good pictures of what you have going on... I don't think it is Nitrogen that is the problem, but I need a lot more information. Start up that journal and let us know everything about your grow, the soil, watering frequency, any supplements you have given... and anything else you can think of.
    • Like
    Reactions: I'mOne
    Hi Emilya - I have a question or two for you if you don't mind, going back to our earlier communication regarding transplanting autos and the whole Dixie cup thing. First, some background: so this is regarding my autoflower grow specifically. I have made some solid decisions, most relevant being that I've decided to do (3) Cinderella Jack and (1) Gorilla Zkittlez in 3 gallon final pots in my 5x5. They should all have plenty of space that way. The recommendation on the Cinderella Jack in particular is that it is best left to basically do it's thing and doesn't really like a lot of heavy manipulation. And I only have the one Gorilla Zkittlez seed, and I doubt the two strains are going to come to fruition at the same time. Therefore I have decided to abandon my low scrog idea and just use low stress training on the autos to open up as many bud sites as possible. Work each plant as an individual, with the aim of creating a "scrog" of sorts but just with bending and tying branches and such and with no screen. Do my best to keep the "canopy" at a relatively even level. All that is easy enough in theory.

    So here's where I want to toss in some wrenches for the sake of experimentation/knowledge/learning. I am going to start these puppies in 16oz. Dixie cups - the big cups. By doing that, I figure I can keep them in those cups for about two weeks, maybe a few days more, before root development will dictate that I must transplant. In that time, I believe it's possible that the plants could develop four nodes of growth or so. So - I am going to TOP one of the Cinderella Jacks to see what happens.

    My first question (finally, lol) is this: If you were going to do as I laid out above, would you top that one Cinderella while it was in the Dixie Cup? Then wait a few days for it to recover and then transplant? OR, would you transplant maybe a few days earlier and top the plant when it had adapted to it's 3 gallon pot for a few days? Or neither of those things and something else?

    My second question is a bit more diffuse. If I let them go for two weeks in the large Dixie Cups, I am using two weeks of an 8-10 week lifecycle before they hit their final home. That's a lot of time lost without early LST that I won't be able to do - two weeks worth - because I won't be able to start training them until they are in the final pots. Or is that in fact true? Can you think of a way I could begin to "train" the plants in the Dixie cups and then transplant them while "maintaining" the shape of the plant I have achieved to that point? Or would it better to just let them go two weeks, let the roots get nice and developed, transplant them, and then train them from that point forward? (I hope that makes sense.)

    My bonus question is, what is more stressful in your opinion to the plant, topping or transplanting?

    Hope this wasn't the most boring post you got today. :laughtwo:

    Jon
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Hi Jon! First, I am of the belief that a plant is a plant is a plant, and there is nothing special about autos except that they don't need a photoperiod change to go into bloom, and they are faster moving than non auto plants. In their quicker timeframe, they can be topped, LST'd and even transplanted, just like any other plant. Also, I know that a transplant does not have to be stressful. I believe autos to be inferior plants when compared to their non-ruderalis cousins, and that in order to successfully market them seed distributors have learned to sell them as "automatic" in all ways... never transplant them, never top or train them, feed them lightly and let them grow faster than the photo's you might have grown. Easy Peasy... the autos are the bee's knees and a godsend to lazy gardeners everywhere.

    This being said, topping is definitely more stressful than uppotting, but why does this worry you? Stress has been assigned human values in this analysis, when we can not even be sure that a plant gets "stressed." We do see plants slow down a bit as they adjust to this or that, and we call it stress... but is it really, or is it simply the plant taking the time it needs to change processes or adjust to what you are telling it to do?

    Transplanting in my garden is strictly done on the basis of what the roots are doing. I do not transplant out of the solo cups, even the small ones, until the plants can drain that cup in 24-36 hours. Several times I have had 5 node plants in the solo cups, that needed topping, and I did it, right there in the solo cup. The plant doesn't care where it happens, and it continues on. So if you see a need to top now, which you probably do considering the fast pace of the autos, do it. You will find that topping doesn't slow the plant down a bit... and the lower nodes will be rising the very next day after making the cut.

    Doing LST in the smaller container is easy if you use a system that can move with the plant into the new larger container. I use garden tie down hoops to hold down my plants... check out my veg room journal for some pictures of how I do this.
    Jon
    Jon
    Awesome. Thank you for the detailed response. Great info and I agree with you on a philosophical level on all counts.
    MackMurder
    MackMurder
    You have a small window to top an auto without hurting your end result. The window is right before it starts produces flowers.
    I know alot of people are hot and horny for lST training and all that but if you top your plant the canopy will become level more or less on its own giving it more time to grow naturally and use its resources for bud production rather than spending time growing apendages
    More bud sites produce smaller buds. Less bud sites produce bigger buds. It's up to you on if you like trimming sma buds or big buds.
    Hey @Emilya hope you doin good, one of my friends had a question that how to make npk recipe to achieve 4-3-11.
    Can you help us to make it please?

    Calcium Nitrate, Iron Chelate, Potassium Nitrate, Magnesium Sulphate, Mono Ammonium Phosphate, mono potassium phosphate and potassium sulphate and librel BMX for the trace. ❤️
    Hi Emilya, when using pH up and down, a white cloud appears every time its added. What I believe its a chemical reaction to the calmag. This wipes out the calmag and is not available.

    What can I do to prevent this ? I've tried diluting the pH but the chemical reaction is still happening.

    Thanks inadvance
    R
    Reeky Deeky
    Morning... it's definitely the calmag. If there's no calmag in the cocktail there's no white cloud. Even when I dilute the calmag with the pH differently from the cocktail, the solution turns white. It's more noticeable with the pH up.

    It's been mentioned on the net a few times but i just can't stop the reaction from happening.

    Here's a video about it, 4.30s in -

    What are your thoughts please?

    Thank you
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    I can't get much out of most videos... I am deaf. If the pH adjusters are causing the calmag to drop out of the solution, maybe try diluting the pH adjuster a bit before adding it to your solution and then vigorously stirring it when you do.
    AdaminCO
    AdaminCO
    Try using lemon juice to bring it down, baking soda to go up and see if that helps.
    Afternoon Emilya, just a quick one... is it possible to top too much and what time intervals between each topping you recommend. To add is topping better than fimming? If so why ?

    Thanks inadvanced
    Hi @Emilya, long time
    İm having germination issue of my OG seed, i need your help as usual, i have tried to germinate in distilled water with ph 5.8, its been long for 3 days in paper towel, a tiny root showed up but it is not gonna come out, yellowish color, what to do?! I hate germination by the way

    This time I switched to Coco and perlite.

    Appreciate
    • Like
    Reactions: Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Emilya Green
    Germination is the hardest part for me too. I just use tap water and totally skip the paper towel, and still I occasionally have problems that I have no explanation for. Sounds like your seed is a gonner... hopefully you rinsed the paper towels real well to get rid of the bleach and such that can be in some of them. Warmth is important too... seeds don't like winter time at all.
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
Back
Top Bottom