THC Extraction

StonyGeoff

StonyGeoff

New Member
Marijuana Butter

To utilize leftover marijuana components - sticks, water leaves and the like - simply put it in a double boiler with some butter, and let it simmer on low heat for 24 hours, then strain out the butter and put it into a plastic container in the fridge.

It's easy to make several cubes (equal to a stick or 4 ounces) worth of pot butter in this fashion ... and half a cube is about the amount of margarine or butter one uses when one is making brownies.

No vegetable material actually enters the mix, such that the resulting brownies are substantially safer to carry.

I've spent maybe ten years playing with petroleum ether and sundry other solvents, and for me it's really a waste of time trying to make hash with small amounts of marijuana.

The cost/effect ratio just isn't justifiable. Whereas the same materials, when invested in pot butter, not only utilize every component, but can get a whole room full of people high ... or keep you sane for a few weeks.

A double boiler is simply a large pot with water in it, which contains a smaller pot with the marijuana and butter in it. The water in the large pot boils, heating the smaller pot but never exceeding the temperature of the boiling point of water.

Always use a double boiler when working with any kind of material that may combust if it comes into contact with a flame or other ignition source.


Have fun ;)
 
Basic THC Extraction I

--- 1. Run all leaf through a wire mesh sifter (such as a kitchen flour sifter).

--- 2. Completely soak the leaf with alcohol for about 4 or 5 days. The purer the better.

Isopropyl alcohol is generally sold denatured, so that its vile to drink. The chemicals which denature it, however, *should* get evaporated by step 4, and further combusted when you smoke it.

Therefore the effect of these chemicals *should* be minimal, but since I don't have the foggiest idea of what the chemicals actually are, use at your own risk.

--- 3. Strain resultant product through silk (used for silk-screening).

--- 4. Evaporate remainder by applying low heat from a coffee cup warmer or similar. The product is flammable so be careful.

--- 5. After evaporating, there will be a remaining "goo". This is the oil.

Once you've got the oil, it's really sticky and hard to handle. It can be put in vials or mixed with 1 part powdered marijuana for storage purposes.


THIS PROCESS HAS BEEN EDITED FOR SAFETY REASONS


Source : THC Extraction
 
StonyGeoff said:
Basic THC Extraction I

--- 1. Run all leaf through a wire mesh sifter (such as a kitchen flour sifter).

--- 2. Completely soak the leaf with alcohol for about 4 or 5 days. The purer the better.

Isopropyl alcohol is generally sold denatured, so that its vile to drink. The chemicals which denature it, however, *should* get evaporated by step 4, and further combusted when you smoke it.

Therefore the effect of these chemicals *should* be minimal, but since I don't have the foggiest idea of what the chemicals actually are, use at your own risk.
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They don't need to denature Iso. It'll mess you up just fine in it's pure state. You must be thinking of rubbing alcohol which is denatured because it's made with ethanol, ethyl alcohol. That's the drinking kind of alcohol. I can assure you that the ingredients used for denaturing WILL remain in your final product. It won't kill you but it will ruin your oil and is not healthy to smoke.

When you don't have the "foggiest" idea of what you're talking about you shouldn't give potentially harmful advice to those who might know even less than you.

The only way to purify denatured alcohol is through fractional distillation. This methodology is obviously way out of your league so please do not attempt it.

Otherwise your post was pretty good. :peace:
 
I nabbed this off another website man, here ===> THC EXTRACTION

You're right it probably isn't the wisest idea to post things that aren't 100% accurate.

However alcohol extraction is far less dangerous than say BHO extraction or some other vile nasty solvents, the real danger using alcohol is if you heat it to much there's a chance it may ignite or explode .. but you'd have to put some serious fire underneath for that to happen when you can just let it sit at room temp until it's ready.

Even if you decide to use heat it need only be enough to simmer, it will evaporate with far less as well. I left it out in the sun and that worked pretty well.

Thanks for pointing that out though.
 
StonyGeoff said:
I nabbed this off another website man, here ===> THC EXTRACTION

You're right it probably isn't the wisest idea to post things that aren't 100% accurate.

However alcohol extraction is far less dangerous than say BHO extraction or some other vile nasty solvents, the real danger using alcohol is if you heat it to much there's a chance it may ignite or explode .. but you'd have to put some serious fire underneath for that to happen when you can just let it sit at room temp until it's ready.

Even if you decide to use heat it need only be enough to simmer, it will evaporate with far less as well. I left it out in the sun and that worked pretty well.

Thanks for pointing that out though.
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You, sir/madam, :0) are correct yourself.

Alcohol extraction is very safe done with the methods you describe.

I prefer to refine and re-use my solvents as it takes either a lot of work or a lot of money to get what I want. I don't have any money but I can do the work part no problem.

I posted pics of my butane extraction but they got deleted, and rightly so, by the admins here. I have no problem at all with that because as they pointed out it is an inherently dangerous procedure and should not be undertaken by folks that may not know what they are doing.

I planned on a follow up on how to recover your butane for re-use. For me a simple distillation procedure, for the next guy maybe a free ticket to the moon. I totally understand why I should not post this type of info in this forum.

I did spend three years earning a diploma in environmental chemistry and truly excelled in distillations and solvent separation in my organic chemistry labs. I graduated at age 35 and that was twenty years ago.

So far I haven't managed to blow myself up, but then again, I do know what I'm doing. I am still working even today with an extremely hazardous chemical. Anhydrous ammonia. Too big a face full of this stuff and you've punched your last time card. I got a good snort about two months ago and had to blow my nose every hour or so for the next three days. Every time was blood. Lots of blood. My f'n blood.

I'll put my full face respirator on the next time I have to repair a 2" hose. I thought it was empty but there was some liquid left in a lower part of the hose. When I cut the wire reinforced hose and lifted it the liquid moved into a warmer area of the hose and vapourized sending a blast of gaseous ammonia in my general direction. One part liquid NH3 = 270 parts gaseous NH3. Not unlike propane except propane won't kill you so quick or as painfully.

Here I go on another rambling diatribe when a couple of sentences should suffice. My old communications professor would be very disappointed bless her funky old heart. lol

I was planning on doing a step-by-step guide showing my procedure to isomerize hash oil as laid out in the book "Cannabis Alchemy by D. Gold", or from "Marijuana Chemistry by Michael Stark". I'm pretty sure that it would not be allowed to be posted here for the same reasons as above. I will be taking pics and may post it elsewhere but it'll be a month or so before that's in the can.

I'm trying to get a grow log going with my latest DWC, two tub, 33 baby Kush from seed plants. Four days since they hit the tubs and lots of roots hanging out of the pots and new growth all over the place. This is number 20 or so I never kept track. I don't keep notes longer than needed as it's getting to be a habit and I don't really need them. If the man shows up this is my first try and I dare him to prove otherwise!

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!

Well, good night and good growin'. I have to go play with ammonia in the morning. Yay! I guess. It's a pay check so what the hell.

:peace: to you and yours.
 
people have been using Iso, methyl hydrate and various other volatile alcohols for many many years,, im not saying there perfectly healthy, for i am not qualified to do so,, but take some 99% iso and let it evaporate, see for yourself, i have seen no residuals any times i have done it with iso, methyl hydrate, or petroleum ether. Butane on the other hand is a different story. depending on brand used i have seen some pretty nasty left overs,,,

Labrat if you have any proof or a list of ingredients as you say, that have been proven to remain after evaporation,, why not post it here, before assuring people that making iso-oil will harm them.

On my jug of iso it tells me to rub the stuff all over my skin, to soothe aching tired muscles,, so im pretty sure (again i am not a chemist) anything harmful evaporates off the skin too fast to be absorbed,, hmmm,, just like it evaporates when i purge my oil..
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But i would like to see any actual evidence you have supporting your assurance of "harmful ingredients" left in properly purged iso-oil. Not saying there aren't any, but until then,, long live iso-oil,, :) some i made 2 nights ago from about an ounce of good bottom of the bag shake,,

about a 1 1/2 grams first 30sec wash in the big vial, and about 1 gram (before smoking) 2nd, 30sec wash, small vial,,and close to 3 grams, 3rd wash soak over night,, (i give this stuff away, as you can see starting to get pretty blackish greenish after a 24hr soak, but still gets you blazed) waste not want not!!
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estranged said:
people have been using Iso, methyl hydrate and various other volatile alcohols for many many years,, im not saying there perfectly healthy, for i am not qualified to do so,, but take some 99% iso and let it evaporate, see for yourself, i have seen no residuals any times i have done it with iso, methyl hydrate, or petroleum ether. Butane on the other hand is a different story. depending on brand used i have seen some pretty nasty left overs,,,

Labrat if you have any proof or a list of ingredients as you say, that have been proven to remain after evaporation,, why not post it here, before assuring people that making iso-oil will harm them.

On my jug of iso it tells me to rub the stuff all over my skin, to soothe aching tired muscles,, so im pretty sure (again i am not a chemist) anything harmful evaporates off the skin too fast to be absorbed,, hmmm,, just like it evaporates when i purge my oil..

But i would love to see any actual evidence you have supporting your assurance of "harmful ingredients" left in properly purged iso-oil.
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There still seems to be some mis-communication going on here.

The 99% Iso of which you speak and the same in methyl hydrate, aka methyl alcohol aka wood alcohol is about as pure as you can get without buying reagent grade product at $50 a litre.

If you drink either of them you will at least go blind and could may well die. It's the denatured alcohol made from ethyl alcohol aka ethanol aka vodka that contains the adulterants that are near impossible to remove without a procedure like fractional distillation.

They add these adulterants so that people won't drink it without becoming very ill. Rubbing alcohol is made from booze. Tax free booze. That's why that crap is in there so winos have to go pay the tax for their alcohol and will get sick as a dog if they drink that crap. If I want cheap booze I go buy a jug of RV antifreeze and run it through my pot still. 95% ethyl alcohol with one pass and a hell of a lot easier than trying to get the camphor out of rubbing alcohol.

They don't put adulterants in Iso or methyl because they will kill you just fine all by themselves.

I do know what I'm talking about. You obviously do not.

If you need more proof than myself, a CHEMIST for crying out loud, can tell you then Google is your friend 'cause I'm done with this.

:peace:
 
methyl hydrate (aka methanol), isopropyl, etc,, is what is used to denature ethanol.
they are what is put in rubbing alcohol, etc,, that makes it poisonous to drink.
there may be other adulterants as you say,, but it is the methanol and or isopropyl and or acetone that are added to ethanol that make it poisonous or blinding or whatever,,

you seem to be saying that using denatured alcohol is bad, yet using the stuff that is used to denature it is the next best thing you can get besides reagent grade ethanol,,??

I agree drinking any of this stuff except maybe pure ethyl alcohol (in moderation,, :))
is extremely toxic,, but when using as a solvent,, im pretty sure (im no chemist like you) all toxic residuals must be fully evaporated,(isopropyl), why else is it harmless for skin contact,, as we all know our skin is an organ quite capable of absorption like any other organ. Although i wouldn't recommend bathing in the stuff,,
but the toxicity comes when ingested,, as the liver metabolizes isopropyl into acetone, or methanol into formaldehyde. It would take alot of absorption through the skin to accomplish this,, never mind the microscopic residuals left behind after evaporation,, if any.

But i guess in the end,, if you feel that using denatured alcohol is bad for making oil,, so be it,, don't use it,, but coming here and telling anyone else that uses it, that it will ruin there oil and there health, without any evidence to support it, besides saying your a chemist. And then to say that methyl hydrate (methanol) is purer product than denatured alcohol??? i dunno man,, denatured alcohol (although many different distillations) around here is mainly ethanol with 10% methanol (methyl hydrate)!!!!

I do however agree if you have access to reagent grade ethanol or even everclear, then that would be a better choice,, but for those of us that don't or don't wanna spend a fortune, for gallons of the stuff,, using denatured alcohol is perfectly fine if fully evaporated and purged correctly.
 
LabRat said:
They don't need to denature Iso. It'll mess you up just fine in it's pure state. You must be thinking of rubbing alcohol which is denatured because it's made with ethanol, ethyl alcohol. That's the drinking kind of alcohol. I can assure you that the ingredients used for denaturing WILL remain in your final product. It won't kill you but it will ruin your oil and is not healthy to smoke.

When you don't have the "foggiest" idea of what you're talking about you shouldn't give potentially harmful advice to those who might know even less than you.

The only way to purify denatured alcohol is through fractional distillation. This methodology is obviously way out of your league so please do not attempt it.

Otherwise your post was pretty good. :peace:
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LabRat, that was awesome you cleared that up. Clearly you've done your research. Your post would have actually been pretty good, minus the rude negativity, and the ridiculous way you communicate with such a demeaning abate. If it weren't for the peace sign you'd be a dick. 'Ave a good one :ganjamon:
 
LOL @ RobbyMac


LabRat perhaps your knowledge can assist me with a project I've got on the back burner to discover which solvent and which method produces the cleanest, purest oil product without contaminants or unnecessary plant bits (ie Chlorophyll).

Someone on here suggested I use ether, I'm sure they meant diethyl-ether NOT petroleum ether.

OldGrowerDude said he used rum or vodka, close to 180 proof I think.

I also heard if you use the BHO method and then further the extraction process with ethanol you get the best. I have 95% ethanol on hand ready to test this theory out.


Now I'm a big fan of the butane tube method, it's simple, quick and produces a fairly potent hash like product. Not to worry mate, I've plenty of experience using butane including nearly torching my cousins house one time (ha ha) because her bf thought it'd be funny to light a lighter over the evaporating plate and ......... you can fill in the blanks. I won't be doing THAT on anyone's kitchen table again! Not around that d1ckhead anyway.

:laughtwo:

I don't fully understand the 'washing' with solvents like estranged wrote about up there, tell me it's as simple as allowing the first lot to evaporate then re-soaking the oil in perhaps a different solvent.

We know the mods won't allow us to post anything in detail here about exactly how it's done, for good reason, but perhaps you can PM me any information that doesn't quite fit the forum guidelines.


estranged said:
i have seen no residuals any times i have done it with iso, methyl hydrate, or petroleum ether. Butane on the other hand is a different story. depending on brand used i have seen some pretty nasty left overs
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Ditto mate. You gotta get the 'top shelf' butane if you want quality oil.
 
Retired Two said:
<snip>If I want cheap booze I go buy a jug of RV antifreeze and run it through my pot still. 95% ethyl alcohol with one pass and a hell of a lot easier than trying to get the camphor out of rubbing alcohol.

<snip>
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I would like to ask about the chemical process going on here. A quick look at the wiki on ethylene glycol does not lead me to believe you can distill ethanol from ethylene glycol through a simple pot still.
Add in the fact that no one, in a 15 minute web search through my other chemical-related sites, has any mention of making ethanol from ethylene glycol.

Being that 95% ethanol is used in many processes for making "illegal" substances, a method allowing it to be produced with nothing more than a 7 dollar gallon of RV antifreeze and a pot still seems like a factoid that would be spread far and wide on these sites.

Unless you can actually post the process, showing the chemical steps the ethylene glycol goes through in the distillation process, then I am calling BS.

You have to use ethanol and a strong sulfuric acid to make ethylene, which is a starting point for making ethylene glycol. Which tells me right off the bat simple distillation from ethylene glycol will not produce ethanol.
 
Naptha? Follow Nancy Reagan's suggestion on that one.

As for acetone:

You can purchase extremely pure submicron filtered optima acetone (packaged under nitrogen) from Fisher Scientific... For around $85 a liter. Or you could. The price may have changed (I doubt very much that it has gone down). You also can get relatively pure ACS-grade acetone for around $25 a liter.

Or you can pick it up in a gallon can in the paint solvent isle of your local hardware store for around $18. If you are asking about it, I will assume that this is the quality that you are talking about.

It is extremely flammable at room temperature. When you heat it in order to evaporate/boil-off the acetone from your actives, its flammability becomes such that in comparison to its room temperature flammability, it is like comparing a glass of water to the substances on the head of a strike-anywhere match.

IMHO, it has more impurities than the average can of butane and much more (relatively) than in a can of triple-filtered (or more... some is filtered 5x) premium butane such as Colibri or Vector brand.

It will dissolve the actives in cannabis. It will also happily leach some of the chlorophyll out of it. It is not unusual to see the soup turn green.

If you do not manage to evaporate all of the acetone (et cetera) when making your oil, you might find that it has a subtle - or not so subtle - flavor. Someone one told me that, "It reminds me strongly of fish and sausage although it isn't exactly either one of them."

If you do not manage to evaporate all of the acetone (et cetera) when making your oil, you might find that you can taste that taste to one degree or another for a couple of days - while at the same time, the taste of other things that you eat/drink/whatever are strangely muted.

Will it work? Yes. Will the product get you there? Yes. Do people use acetone for making oil? Yes. Do they immediately drop dead or suffer lasting health problems that are clearly traceable to using it? Apparently not - or at least not enough to make the news.

Have I used acetone to make oil? Yes. Did the oil get me there? Oh yes. Did I enjoy the experience? Each time I made it with this method, that first smoke was great and it was just as strong through to the last smoke. But by the time I was having that last smoke I was telling myself that next time I'd not use acetone to make it ever again. <SHRUGS> IDK. It just didn't seem... worth it, I guess.

I made it quite a few times. I was younger and it was a buzz. I'm still here, although my liver probably isn't thanking me. In times long past I have experimented with many things that I do not now.

Personally, I feel that using clean butane as the solvent is not only perfectly safe - if done properly! - but also that the end-product is healthier for the user. I believe that in the past (not sure about the present), using butane has been frowned upon at this site so I will not further discuss the method of a properly-done butane extraction, except to state this: It is my opinion that common sense tells one how to be safe when handling a product that is extremely flammable in its gaseous state when said product evaporates from a liquid at such a low temperature and when breathing too much of it can cause death from asphyxiation and ventricular fibrillation. BUT - it is, alas, apparent that there are folks in this world who do not seem to have the required level of common sense but will still use this product to make their oil. Therefore, it would seem to me that posting a how-to (that includes safety warnings) would be akin to a public service. No adult in their right mind would hand an uneducated child a loaded gun, but it cannot be denied that there are children every year that gain access to them. Many people feel that gun-safety where children are concerned means locking their firearms up. That keeps their firearms away from their children, true - but it does not guarantee that their children will never come across any firearms. A responsible parent would instead teach firearm safety to their children so that there is much less (almost none, in fact) of a chance that if that child encounters a firearm, that the child will suffer a mishap and cause their parents to mourn.

Just my opinions, of course.
 
WHATS THE BEST WAY TO MAKE NICE FLUFFY KIEF NOT THE OILY STUFF THIS IS AN EMERGENCY AS I AV GOT LOADS OF LEAF TO USE AN THOUGHT THIS IS A GOOD WAY TO USE IT :thumb:
 
what is the maximum amount of shake i can rinse per gallon of Iso? so far i have been using 2 lbs of shake per gallon but the process is taking too long is there any way to speed up the process of making honey oil i have 300 lbs of shake... grumble..
 
Hexane it's a dangerous solvent used in industry to produce vegetable oil, in labs to extract oils and lipids from plant matter, paint thinner and parts cleaning. It looks to be the best next solvent for me to try for my own medication, the agricultural pollen extractor looks like a good machine for kief but for the $ I might make one of the dyi trailer park systems. When making keef I use dry ice chips on the screen with the shake dried and frozen prior to use. I need to find my copy of the cannabis alchemy booklet anyone know of it? or the author? it's old school
 
420pharms said:
Hexane it's a dangerous solvent used in industry to produce vegetable oil, in labs to extract oils and lipids from plant matter, paint thinner and parts cleaning. It looks to be the best next solvent for me to try for my own medication,
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I think chloroform is one of the better ones in terms of extraction capability. Something like 98%.

420pharms said:
I need to find my copy of the cannabis alchemy booklet anyone know of it? or the author? it's old school
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Cannabis alchemy: The art of modern hashmaking ; methods for preparation of extremely potent cannabis products - David Hoyle
Published in 1974 or 1975. Reprinted several times, I believe. Check with Amazon if you can't find it in your local used book store.
 
Thank you TorturedSoul. I will buy new copy. Have you used Ether? I am concerned with the red flags for purchasing it in med grade, it was used a lot at one time in the manufacture of very addictive drugs. I just want to have fun and make oil with the added kick of old school chems. I also want to recycle my solvent and the alchemist booklet has a plan for a suxification chamber or some such thing. thank you very much. How much can we converse about it on this site? with all the safety issues , what is the acceptable limit. One fire or emergency would give the opposition another score and that wouldn't be any good. do you know if chloroform raises the same accountability red flag when purchased as ether may have ?
 
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