Will changing direct sunlight hours mess with photoperiod? Heat problems

Nicotin

Active Member
Hi guys, first time poster here.

Where I live we've been getting constant >+100°F temperatures in the shade lately and my plant is definetly feeling it. Growth has slowed down and a lot of bottom leaves have been going from OK to yellow and dead in about 1 or 2 days, which may seem like a nitrogen deficiency, but I tend to think that the heat is responsible since I've been fertilizing with Biogrow (2 mlxL) and Alg-A-Mic (1,5 mlxL) once every two waterings since it was 1 month old with no problems what so ever, other than a mild phosporus deficiency which killed a few leaves every couple of weeks, totally maneageable and very different from what's been going on since the extreme heat is present. I've increased watering from 3-4 days to 2-3 days with no luck. At 13:00 PM leaves are all down because of the heat, like the plant is frying, and when I put the plant under the partial shade of tree that is next to it the leaves go back up to normal.

My question is this: the plant grows on an interior garden surrounded by walls, so I can choose if the plant gets direct sunlight from 10:30 to 13:30 PM or from 12:30 to 16:00 (it's been growing all of it's life with direct sunlight from 12:30 to 16:00). I know that this little sunlight is not ideal but can't do anything about it. I'm thinking that if I move the plant so it gets direct sunlight at 10:30 and then get covered by the shade of the tree in the afternoon could really help with the heat issue since it is in the afternoon when the heat really starts to go up. In the morning the plant could get direct and then rest in the shade when T° rises afterwards...

The problem is that plant should start to flower right about now... will I mess with it's photoperiod if I make this move and stress it out? It would get direct sunlight about 3 hours earlier and will stop recieving it 3 hours earlier than what has received in it's life. Total time outside will of course be the same. I considered using shade cloth but I haven't been able to find some that filters <80% where I live, so I think the tree is my only chance. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

IMG_20190127_102327.jpg

It is a 3 month old G13 Haze from Barney's Farm. I know that the overall health of the plant is fine, but the speed of this problem has increased rapidly over the last week and will definetly become a bigger problem if I don't solve the root problem.

IMG_20190102_204814[2].jpg

Leaves go from normal to this in about a day and die the next day. I'm getting a PH/EC meter to discard a PH imbalance, but I understand that PH imbalances affect the entire plant (not only the bottom leaves) and don't cause leaves to die this fast.
 
The amount of complete darkness determines when it will flower,and shade doesn't count,so I think you'll be fine.

As the plant gets matures,the bottom,older fan leaves will start to die of old age,so you may not have a big problem.

BTW,Welcome to 420!
 
Looks like carcass got ya covered here. He's right, you'll be fine putting the plant in a shaded area. Sunlight is so powerful that even a shaded area still has enough light for a plant. Try keeping it out of direct sunlight during the hottest parts of your day.. sun in morning, shade in afternoon and back to sun in evening.

And yes lower leaves that don't get as much light and get older will slowly die off, sometimes quicker outside.
 
Thanks for the answers guys. I moved the plant and this past few days it seems to be getting along fine. The yellowing hasn't stopped but at least it has held for a few days before advancing to other leaves.

The PH/EC meters came along in the mail today and got some very interesting readings:

  • Tap Water: PH->8,3 & EC->1050
  • Bottled Water: PH->7,7 & EC->980
  • Tap Water + 2mlxL Biogrow + 1mlxL Alg-A-Mic: PH->6,4 & EC->1600
  • Runoff after Tap+Biogrow+Alg-A-Mic: PH->6,8 & EC->2200

This tells me that my tap water is kind of basic, my soil is also kind of basic, and that the nutrients I add on my regular feedings get the water to ideal PH. Very interesting. It actually makes sense because I've always noticed that whenever I water with no fertilizers is when the plants yellows faster. I thought this had to do with the plant being hungry/heat stressed but maybe the shitty tap water is responsible for part of the yellowing.

Next time I use only water I'll try to regulate it's PH down to 6,5 using lemon juice and see if it makes a difference.
 
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