Why is my bud is not bulking up
- Thread starter Bob4359
- Start date
Genetics likely. Specially if you got the same result 2 different grow methods.
I grow sativa and its always fluffy buds.
Hybrids are sometimes nuggy....
Indica leaners are usually always nugs.
I just finished a round with Weed Seed Express - Girl Scout Cookies
Nothing but nugs and VERY easy to grow. They got a sale on now.
I grow sativa and its always fluffy buds.
Hybrids are sometimes nuggy....
Indica leaners are usually always nugs.
I just finished a round with Weed Seed Express - Girl Scout Cookies
Nothing but nugs and VERY easy to grow. They got a sale on now.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi Bob, welcome to the forum!
Most bud doesnt really start bulking up till the very end of the grow. On an 8 week bloom, it is typical for the buds to double in size between weeks 6-8. Be patient... it will happen.
Most bud doesnt really start bulking up till the very end of the grow. On an 8 week bloom, it is typical for the buds to double in size between weeks 6-8. Be patient... it will happen.
I never grew before..... this is my first grow and its 1977... wait .... not sure now.
Each cultivar is different on when bud set happens and when the bulking up happens.
"typically" the bulk starts happening when the plant goes into senescence (yellowing fan leaves) if you left them on the plant. Those fan leaves are where the flower gets their energy and nutrients to build those fatty colas. Just an observation and the science.
Senescence
Translocation
Absission
I've got several outdoor plants growing now some are burning thru the fans a fattening up the flowers, some are just getting going and no fatty cola. Same soil same lighting same everything cept the genetics.
Fan leaves... leaf them be.
Each cultivar is different on when bud set happens and when the bulking up happens.
"typically" the bulk starts happening when the plant goes into senescence (yellowing fan leaves) if you left them on the plant. Those fan leaves are where the flower gets their energy and nutrients to build those fatty colas. Just an observation and the science.
Senescence
Translocation
Absission
I've got several outdoor plants growing now some are burning thru the fans a fattening up the flowers, some are just getting going and no fatty cola. Same soil same lighting same everything cept the genetics.
Fan leaves... leaf them be.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
egads! My 6 week plants need to start Senescencing, Translocating and Absissing then... none of my fan leaves are yellowing!
They will hang tight.... quit giving them N in flower and it will happen.
Like this @ 40 days in flower:
Like this @ 40 days in flower:
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Not giving them any as far as I know in the BLOOM version of Geoflora. The point is that my plants never start to fade or die out at the end because in organic grows, they have the nutrients they need right up to the end, already built into the soil. There are many methods to grow this weed, and the method of holding back on the nutes at the end to cause sinescience, is not one that I endorse. I'm glad it works for you, but it would cause me lots of concern if it happened here.They will hang tight.... quit giving them N in flower and it will happen.
Like this @ 40 days in flower:
I'm an organic grower. I never grew any other way water FTW.
Senescence is part of the natural growth cycle of all plants.
You cure time and taste/smell will improve letting them do their own thing. It actually will improve your yield and quality.
Here's the science on it:
Nitrogen remobilization during leaf senescence: lessons from Arabidopsis to crops
Highly suggest this read.
Senescence is part of the natural growth cycle of all plants.
You cure time and taste/smell will improve letting them do their own thing. It actually will improve your yield and quality.
Here's the science on it:
Nitrogen remobilization during leaf senescence: lessons from Arabidopsis to crops
Highly suggest this read.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
OK, I read the article. First, the article disputes your claim that Senescence is part of the natural growth cycle of all plants, because they specifically refer to two types of plants, those that do this, and "stay green" plants. There are many plants that given the correct nutrients, stay green.
Second, the main point of this study has to do with saving the farmer from having to apply expensive N to the field all the time, by allowing plants to Senesce at the correct time so that the nutrients stored in the leaves will be "remobilized" in both the growing plant and then later on back into the soil so that nothing is wasted. Doing this allows for better yield and quality in the current field of crops that are getting no additional nutrients, and in future grows in that field that will have had this crop tilled under and all those nutrients in the plants also remobilized into the soil.
Essentially the article is showing the science behind growing a field of cash crops, without having to fertilize with every watering, or even at all. This study has very little to do with what we are doing, growing in closed containers with ample nutrients and new soil. The article actually further convinced me that for optimum yields and quality, it is important to make sure the plants are getting proper nutrition right up to the end, and any additional needs the plant may have above this, is handled with Senescence of some of the older leaves. I can see from my experiments in growing this plant, that if everything is there that the plant needs, very little Senescence happens. And, as the article points out, if I then till under and recompost my plants back into the soil, very little of the nutrient left over in the plant goes to waste... it is in the soil for the next time.
From the article:
What are you using for lights? Genetics and quality of light will affect that more than anything, switching grow mediums won't change that much if at all.
- Thread starter
- #11
Here are things most likely to look at:
- Not enough light intensity: Generally cannabis grown in weak intensity lighting grows airy/fluffy and doesn't get dense. Get more light, move the lights closer, or both.
- Genetics: sativa or sativa dominant strains or landrace many times don't "bulk up" and instead grow more whispy and airy. Not much you can do here as that is just how these varietals grow. Selective breeding over generations or cross breeding can help... but that is very long term. Try indica's or hybrids.
- Plant/soil health. Not so much what are you growing in or using, but are you using it right. Plants in poor health many times don't get bulky and grow more frail, small and weak looking buds. (not always but it does influence it)
- Infected plant (viroids). I have read that there are some cannabis virus's that cause plants to under perform their genetic potential. Are you trying different seeds/clones from different breeders or suppliers? If not you may want to try getting some different suppliers.
- Harvesting too early: I don't ever follow nutrients schedules as plants don't operate on a man made schedule and each one has its own time to finish. I always wait until all of the white hairs turn amber/orange, and then after that you will see the "calyx" start to swell and the hairs shrivel/disappear mostly. Only after this swelling is when you want to start thinking about pulling the plant. Most nutrients have 7 weeks schedules and in over 10 years of growing different strains, I've only had maybe 3-5 strains out of 50 or more that have finished in 7 weeks (49 days). Most plants I have grown at minimum are usually 63 days from 12/12 flip, and some OG's and other sativa dom strains may go 85, or even 100 days from the flip. With most strains, usually after about week 5-7 is when the plants really start to bulk up, so you want to really wait until all of the swelling happens, and most of the "hairs" disappear or shrivel. Trichomes sometimes are a good indicator of ideal THC when you harvest, however I have also had plants have "amber trichomes" early due to pest or nutrient issues/deficiencies so trichomes are only part of the "indicator" that your plants are ready. I usually go off the swelled calyx's.
- Humidity: Generally you want to follow a VPD chart (vapor pressure deficit) which takes into consideration humidity, and temperature. This tells you how much water exchange a plant can do at a certain temperature and RH. (relative humidity). I've heard from more experienced breeders/growers that humidity plays a big role in bud density, as plants grown in desert like environments where there is low humidity, have much denser buds, where plants grown in more humid areas are usually bigger, but less dense. (if same strain was grown in 2 different environments). Therefore check your humidity levels and see if they are within the right VPD or recommended RH. I generally have my RH below 55%.
- Nutrient ratios... I don't think this would be a major issue, however if you are feeding your plants too much nitrogen into mid and late flowering, it tends to give your plants more leafy structure which can lead to larger but airy buds.
Fluffy buds is weak light - simple as that in my humble opinion
good info : have found that a 13hr dark time shorten the "transition stage" have grown both 12/12 and 11/13 NOW I start flower at 12/12 - to middle flower 11/13 - than add VU in week 6-7 till harvest and then last week before harvest 10/14. seem to really help in 2nd metoblism and brings out the terpenes' that are really rich !!!! Also dimming your light to 75% in the final two weeks helps
Light if you blast with a quality light it will help you get them nuggys dense ,,,, also pk booster starting mid flower will help ,,,,,, and not harvesting to early .... the last week is when I notice them buds really plump up! You will get there brother!!!!
I use Msssive Bloom and Soil Balance, for bulk terpinator and Purpinator for terpes'/taste
Huge purp fan myself, when I say pk ,,,,, you can always dial vpd but if you still can't there genetics play a big roll , it will just click for you brother you got this
out of the two (Terpinator - Purpinator) I use terpinator in flower day 1 to week 7 of flower and Purpinator week 5-6-7 flower. other than that I use organic nutrients( Elemential Nutes)
SmokeyB
Well-Known Member
My first journal I found that out not enough light to cover my area and I had fluffy buds and I grow indica dominate plants light has alot to do with it
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