What's an actual replacement for a 1000W HPS?

ScrogNub

ScrogNub

Well-Known Member
Whats an actual replacement that you have swapped out for a 1000hps that pulls the same weight? Are you still using it? If so why? If not why not? What was the heat/power draw/ ect. Looking for actual real world experience. Not "I saw this 1500w led that only pulls 150w from the wall on youtube and amazon check it out" Legit 1khps replacement. With proper canopy penetration.

-cheers!
 
You really can't compare LED based lights from various manufacturers. They use LEDs from different manufacturers, and different quality bins.

I use a King X6 Dimmable 1800W COB LED Grow Light in a 2' X 4' tent. It draws about 300W from the wall. I can't achieve light burn with it turned full up, unless the canopy grows into the light. It's in use for it's fourth full grow, and will be replaced with a DIY 400W Citizen CLU-048 COB based light. Eight 1216 COBs on a 30cm (1 ft) grid.

If you buy quality fixtures, you will need 30-35W per sq ft of canopy during flowering. These are fixtures from Timber Grow Lights, Horticultural Lighting Group, Kind, etc. So for 16 sq ft, you'd need 480 - 560W of LED lighting. At 25 sq ft this is 750 - 875W, from the wall of course.

I didn't replace a HID with LED, but went straight to LED. Lighting is a pay me now, or pay me later proposition. I calculated out the initial purchase, and operational costs for several LEDs by different manufacturers. After five years the costs were pretty much the same, is power cost was about $0.20 pper Kwh. Check PurpleGunRack's thread for the actual figures.

Never check the manufacturer's equivalencies. They almost all lie. Check the power drawn from the wall, spectrum, and reviews.
 
I'm a hps guy to, been researching some led for a expansion. I really like what timber has to offer. These numbers may not be exact (been looking at alot of different products) But timbers Fatty VS supposedly full 5*5 coverage and pushing 1000 umols which is equivalent to hortilux 1000 hps at 16 inches above plants. Curious to see what some of the experts input is.
 
I invite you to watch my current journal where I am investigating just this question. In my previous grows I ran one 600w MH and one 600w HPS together in a large Raptor AC hood and got pretty good results. Now I am running two 3000w LED arrays, that of course don't pull 3000w, they each pull a bit more than 350w, for a total of around 700w of LED power being pulled from the wall. The general belief is that LED power is 2x stronger than the same wattage of HID power, so my two LED arrays are going to be roughly equivalent to the 1200w HID that I am used to. We will start seeing the results in the next 2-3 months since I just hit the 12/12 flip yesterday.
Emmie's 6 Plant, True Living Organic, LED Grow Journal
 
Old Salt said:
Never check the manufacturer's equivalencies. They almost all lie. Check the power drawn from the wall, spectrum, and reviews.
Click to expand...

Yup. Most of them are full up to their eyeballs. Been eyeing up some real nice LED setups on the chinese wholesale sites direct from the people who make them. Cut out the middle man charging 2x the cost....Thats the other problem with LED's is the price gouging.
 
I will also note that having just gotten through veg, and comparing the growth under roughly 500-600w equivalent LED full spectrum light, I have experienced some of the strongest growth I have ever seen, strongly comparing to the 500w of purple AgroMax Pure PAR Veg T5 lights that I ran for a number of years, and for a fraction of the startup, bulb and operation costs.
 
Like comparing apples and oranges :)

There also a big difference between using a 1000w HID in a 6x6 room and using one in a 1m x 1m tent

Penetration power = too high PPFD at canopy level AKA wasted energy.

A bulb is a highly concentrated lightsource - which means you get great penetration, but you can't get great penetration without having a poor distribution of light AND most importantly the higher the intensity per light emitting surface area is, the more heat it will put out.
You get a 35% / 65% light to heat ratio from HPS (and the blurples and other crappy LEDs...)

An array of diodes lack the penetration power, but with adequate intensity and full physical coverage of the grow area will ommit the inverse square law.
The lack of penetration power is something we can grow around by training our plants or using the most efficient of all = SoG method.

If for whatever weird reason one wishes to grow tall untopped trees, HID and some types of high power COBs are the best options.

Depending on growstyle you should be able to achieve the same or better results with 600w - 800w with Middle Power Diodes or high efficiency COBs as you would with 1000w HPS
Depending on how hard you run the diodes you get up to 65% / 35% light to heat ratio, but in most practical applications it will be around 50/50.

A good replacement could be 6x Quantum Boards (288 diode type) @ 800w in a 4x4 tent for optimal lighting (4x @ 550w will do very well though), 6x could be stretched to a 5x5 tent.

Or 16-25 COBs (best line and newest generation from Bridgelux, Citizen or Luminus) @35-50w each.


Using Middle Power Diodes in a SoG setup will make you able to make at least two layers in normal rooms optimizing the use of the space available, and also the light and therefore electricity will be used sooooo much more efficiently than you would be able to running SoG with HID.
Basically a cleverly made SoG operation with Middle Power Diodes will be able to yield +2 times as much per kWh/day/m2 as a ''conventional'' 600w/1000w HID warehouse grow ;)
 
I’m pretty torn on this subject personally... but want to give you my opinion because I’m a historically a pretty staunch HPS supporter. Before my current grow I would’ve said the only real comparison for a 1000w HPS was a...1000w or 1000w DE () HPS. HOWEVER, my current experience with LED is blowing my mind a bit. The way plants react to multi-spectrum, dimmable high quality LEDs is fascinating. I would recommend if/when you make the switch - first try to find a deal on awesome used gear or second make the investment. In either case, try to grab lights that have dual dim switches for red and blue - it’s IMPORTANT to have this control for tightening nodes, giving your plants the spectrum they need (when they need it), heat control, etc.. My experience is a 350w high quality LED is certainly comparable to a 600w HPS, and a 900w high quality LED would rival a 1K HPS. I haven’t gotten through a full flower yet and I’m only running one plant, but I’m starting to actually consider it may yield over a lb (we’ll see).

Not to shamelessly promote - but go check out my last 2 or 3 pics for an idea of what you can get going on with way less than 1500w (don’t get drawn in by numbers). Quality, not quantity. 38” x 38” canopy at first week of flower. I guarantee someone on here is growing with whatever light you think you like, my advice is to check out their pics :)

GL man and look forward to your grows.
 
For traditional LED grow lights, the blue and red color ones, usually you need watt for watt replacement for the same quantity yield. That is 1000w LED grow lights to replace 1000HPS, (at least 800w). But even with same quantity yield, LED grow lights will give you better quality buds, higher thc or CBD, and also you can save some energy from the cooling system. :passitleft:
New tech LED grow lights like Mars SP series, HLG lights, can save you more energy, at least 30%, so that you can use less energy to grow. :yummy:
Mars SP - 200, 3 of them can replace 1000w HPS, while give you more quality buds as well. ;)
 
really watts means crap, we can all agree with this. BUT, were the difference is, is the jpw ratio. Take the QBs and the 3590's and the luminus, your above the 2.0jpw, which, NOW, being above that threshold, you start to 2x the LED power to HPS and CMH. So, i can say, my luminus 4 cob, 300 watts is equal or better then a 600 watt HPS. But that doesnt mean you will grow with the LED like the HPS, as other factors like Heat and humidity, ALA VPD because LEDs dont heat the leaf cells like the hotter HPS. So, you MUST get your leaf temp up to 83F to be in the same level as the HPS.,, Then, add the fact that you can dim and keep same spectrum with LEDs, as to if you dim HPS, the spectrum changes, so lowering the lights to the canopy under low watts, high heat environment can get even further superior to the HPS,
Sorry for rammblin,lol..
 
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