desiBud420
New Member
Hi ya'll.
I've have a Black Indica clone that was doing well before my efforts to eradicate some spider mite buildup I caught in the nick of time. I used organic methods first, then stupidly Acetamiprid: "a mould/fungus/mite killer/cancer causer" killer. I've laid off any such treatments for the meantime as I'm in the second week of flowering. a cold wash under the shower head with slight pressure every other day for the past week is keeping notes at bay somewhat.
I cannot figure out this leaf yellowing business. At first I thought it was nute burn, so i held back from the NPK 5-15-45 I found here. This baby was doing great out in the direct sun until after a neem oil spray (than wash after 30 mins dark lights so as not to burn my leaves in the light). Then another thorough wash down. The next treatment after 2 days was more chemical. I used Acetamiprid with a toned down mix in water (precious uses experience burnt my leaves so half doses play it safer), followed by a quick wash. BUT having seen a Deutch Welle documentary of Acetamiprid use on fruits and vegs that led to cancerous side effects. I stopped using Acetamiprid after that altogether. Cold wash is a hassle but Plant really shines green and sprouts soon after and no Chens involved to alter my plants natural chemistry.
I gave it a good flush early on as there was a suspision of salt buildup from another forum user.
Heres what it looked like below 2 weeks ago just when I entered flowering, with a hint of the problem developing at the lowest part of the plant first. If im not mistaken I see some heat stress from leaf tips curled up slightly that I didnt notice then. Those 'curled tips' are still in effect now (upcoming pics after.)
The leaves at the lowest part began to turn yellow/brown but started at the tips and slowly worked their way inward. Green would diminish completely after 1 week.
Someone suggested nute burn from an NPK of 5-15-45 at half dose for a 5 gallon pot (2 litres per 1/2 tsp NPK). My last nute feed was a week ago. I gently use this every other watering for the flowering cycle. That particular person suggested to just flush and water lightly minus any mutes altogether. I did that too but the problem doesn't seem to be improving, but now getting worse. The yellow/browning that was originally at the bottom of the plant has now shifted gears into the middle/center of the plant. I can see the 3/4 top of my plant tips slowly starting to react the same way even from simple watering. I avoid overwatering and drowning. It does get hot outside more than usual. But the soil isn't drying out as quickly and I know my root system is intact and not getting any severe rootbound issues.
It can't be the mite treatments. My run off is approximately 6-7 pH. I have only ph strips to get an idea. The rest I log in a diary with nutes/Watering and bug issues, etc. the top/middle leaves didn't get burnt at all as I was careful in dosage and an after spray/wash once 30 I felt was enough to suffocate the mites and wash the leaves off before any burns took place from neem and garlic oil (garlic was to destroy most of the mite eggs).
it can't be rootbound so soon becos I can't see any root tips popping out the pots drain holes I drilled all around for better drainage.
I was also told it might be a magnesium deficiency. I got some Epsom in crystallised form (the kind from chemist/pharmaceuticals, not the rock form). I noticed a healthier green in them but since I saw the problem hadn't diminished, I've laid off the mag-sulphate feed and still this is happening.
My last resort was an N-def. but I've gave this baby a very mild feed from the 5-15-45NPK I have. I can't find any other nute variety in my region. This was the best option I had for a flowering nute feed. I've used dry cow manure as the original soil fert which has been doing fine the last 3 months. Only a punch in the entire 5-gal soil mix (4th month flowering, entering week 3 as of today) .
I checked up on my plants early morning and theyve shifted from a darker more vogorous green color to amore lime-green shade. More heat stress is notable throughout the plant. I am thinking of moving this to the shade, or covering it from the sun with a green shade cover that lets most light through but keeps it cooler with this between plant and sun.
Today morning I saw the stress of this condition move on up to the top most part of the plant.
Really confused. I noticed that all the leaves have lost their "darker green vigor" and is turning more of a lime-green tinge as mentioned before. Is this still in the lines of cal-mag or do I have a N-def on my hands as well?? =(
I also noticed leaf tips curling up over last 2 weeks. Could be heat stress added to all this. I took Sun lux readings yesterday. At peak times is 90,000+ Lux and 40-55,000 in the shade (readings at same time in day about 1pm) on average I read most plants only need an 80,000 average or perhaps 75,000 lux. I may be giving them too much direct sunlight for this flowering phase? They seemed to love it before but this leaf yellowing and moving up to the top part of the plant over 2 weeks has me stumped.
Plant color comparison (before)
Plant color comparison (after)
Closeup color comparison (before)
Closeup color comparison (after)
One compadre suggested CalMag, but I cant find that here. Its not a brand/checmical well known to nurseries or even the poor excuse for grow shops in the "-istan" region. There is one chapo who might be able to get it for me but its a long shot and it wont arrive before my plants have gone through 1-2 months of stress in flowering.
Someone else swore by using babyfeed(food mix) as part of their nutrients. I have no idea of plants metabolize babyfeed the way it should to make nutrients get to where they need to be. Its worth a last resort i suppose. But then again I coudl be heading for deeper waters if i dont research it before i get impatient and make a fatal error. After 3 months in veg i dont want to muck this up even further.
I'm stumped, stuMPED, s-TRUMPED!!
I've have a Black Indica clone that was doing well before my efforts to eradicate some spider mite buildup I caught in the nick of time. I used organic methods first, then stupidly Acetamiprid: "a mould/fungus/mite killer/cancer causer" killer. I've laid off any such treatments for the meantime as I'm in the second week of flowering. a cold wash under the shower head with slight pressure every other day for the past week is keeping notes at bay somewhat.
I cannot figure out this leaf yellowing business. At first I thought it was nute burn, so i held back from the NPK 5-15-45 I found here. This baby was doing great out in the direct sun until after a neem oil spray (than wash after 30 mins dark lights so as not to burn my leaves in the light). Then another thorough wash down. The next treatment after 2 days was more chemical. I used Acetamiprid with a toned down mix in water (precious uses experience burnt my leaves so half doses play it safer), followed by a quick wash. BUT having seen a Deutch Welle documentary of Acetamiprid use on fruits and vegs that led to cancerous side effects. I stopped using Acetamiprid after that altogether. Cold wash is a hassle but Plant really shines green and sprouts soon after and no Chens involved to alter my plants natural chemistry.
I gave it a good flush early on as there was a suspision of salt buildup from another forum user.
Heres what it looked like below 2 weeks ago just when I entered flowering, with a hint of the problem developing at the lowest part of the plant first. If im not mistaken I see some heat stress from leaf tips curled up slightly that I didnt notice then. Those 'curled tips' are still in effect now (upcoming pics after.)
The leaves at the lowest part began to turn yellow/brown but started at the tips and slowly worked their way inward. Green would diminish completely after 1 week.
Someone suggested nute burn from an NPK of 5-15-45 at half dose for a 5 gallon pot (2 litres per 1/2 tsp NPK). My last nute feed was a week ago. I gently use this every other watering for the flowering cycle. That particular person suggested to just flush and water lightly minus any mutes altogether. I did that too but the problem doesn't seem to be improving, but now getting worse. The yellow/browning that was originally at the bottom of the plant has now shifted gears into the middle/center of the plant. I can see the 3/4 top of my plant tips slowly starting to react the same way even from simple watering. I avoid overwatering and drowning. It does get hot outside more than usual. But the soil isn't drying out as quickly and I know my root system is intact and not getting any severe rootbound issues.
It can't be the mite treatments. My run off is approximately 6-7 pH. I have only ph strips to get an idea. The rest I log in a diary with nutes/Watering and bug issues, etc. the top/middle leaves didn't get burnt at all as I was careful in dosage and an after spray/wash once 30 I felt was enough to suffocate the mites and wash the leaves off before any burns took place from neem and garlic oil (garlic was to destroy most of the mite eggs).
it can't be rootbound so soon becos I can't see any root tips popping out the pots drain holes I drilled all around for better drainage.
I was also told it might be a magnesium deficiency. I got some Epsom in crystallised form (the kind from chemist/pharmaceuticals, not the rock form). I noticed a healthier green in them but since I saw the problem hadn't diminished, I've laid off the mag-sulphate feed and still this is happening.
My last resort was an N-def. but I've gave this baby a very mild feed from the 5-15-45NPK I have. I can't find any other nute variety in my region. This was the best option I had for a flowering nute feed. I've used dry cow manure as the original soil fert which has been doing fine the last 3 months. Only a punch in the entire 5-gal soil mix (4th month flowering, entering week 3 as of today) .
I checked up on my plants early morning and theyve shifted from a darker more vogorous green color to amore lime-green shade. More heat stress is notable throughout the plant. I am thinking of moving this to the shade, or covering it from the sun with a green shade cover that lets most light through but keeps it cooler with this between plant and sun.
Today morning I saw the stress of this condition move on up to the top most part of the plant.
Really confused. I noticed that all the leaves have lost their "darker green vigor" and is turning more of a lime-green tinge as mentioned before. Is this still in the lines of cal-mag or do I have a N-def on my hands as well?? =(
I also noticed leaf tips curling up over last 2 weeks. Could be heat stress added to all this. I took Sun lux readings yesterday. At peak times is 90,000+ Lux and 40-55,000 in the shade (readings at same time in day about 1pm) on average I read most plants only need an 80,000 average or perhaps 75,000 lux. I may be giving them too much direct sunlight for this flowering phase? They seemed to love it before but this leaf yellowing and moving up to the top part of the plant over 2 weeks has me stumped.
Plant color comparison (before)
Plant color comparison (after)
Closeup color comparison (before)
Closeup color comparison (after)
One compadre suggested CalMag, but I cant find that here. Its not a brand/checmical well known to nurseries or even the poor excuse for grow shops in the "-istan" region. There is one chapo who might be able to get it for me but its a long shot and it wont arrive before my plants have gone through 1-2 months of stress in flowering.
Someone else swore by using babyfeed(food mix) as part of their nutrients. I have no idea of plants metabolize babyfeed the way it should to make nutrients get to where they need to be. Its worth a last resort i suppose. But then again I coudl be heading for deeper waters if i dont research it before i get impatient and make a fatal error. After 3 months in veg i dont want to muck this up even further.
I'm stumped, stuMPED, s-TRUMPED!!