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Has anyone tried the Boveda Humidity Packs for curing. I hear they work great.
This has been floating around the grows and I'm not sure who to credit for it but I found it to be extremely helpful, especially as a newbie going through it the first time . More to the point it worked great!
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It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
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As I said I'm a newbie, I found it extremely hard to figure out if I was doing the cure right, this takes out the guess work.
After I got the hygrometers I tested some stash that had been sitting in jars (luckily in the cold) for months, I thought it was doing great. The rh was over 70%. If it had been warmer that stuff would have been lost to mold.
A cautionary note, I tried using normal cheapo temp/humidity gauges, they don't read correctly in small enclosed spaces I guess, the rh readings were off by more than 20%. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish, get a Cal III. Get several. I like to have one for each 4 jars so I can keep a close eye on things. You need to leave them in there 24 hours later in the cure to get good readings.
The best way to dry buds is too trim them first, hang them to dry, or put them on a screen if they're not big enough to hang dry. When drying, they should be in a completely dark room at about 68 degrees and humidity at 50% with plenty of air circulation. They should all be completely dried and ready to cure anywhere from 4 to 7 days.
The best and quickest way to cure the buds is to put them in airtight glass jars in a dark room at about 80 degrees. Let the buds sweat for a few hours then open the tops to the jars and let the moisture come out for a few minutes then close them up again. Repeat this every day for three days. Then lower the temperature of the room to 70 degrees and only open the jars a few minutes twice a day for another week or two till you reach the point of perfectly cured buds with an excellent, smooth tasty hit when smoking out of a pipe. To test for perfectly cured buds a pipe should be used because water in a bong can mask a harsh hitting bud.