What is the best way to dry and preserve the cure for smooth, sweet buds?

On my last grow when it came time to chop it and dry it this is what I did:

1) Remove the giant fan leaves.

2) I chopped the plant at the main stem and then chop other smaller branches but keeping the stems on.

3) Do a more thorough trim. Get rid of the smaller fan leaves and now you are shaping the buds, this is your preference on how far you want to go with it.

4) Get some coat hangers and rubber bands. Cut the rubber bands so they are just one string.

5) Tie one end of the rubber band to the coat hanger and tie the other end of the rubber band to the bottom stem of each branch.

6) Hang the coat hanger and voila!
 
I get great results with a quick cure.

Trim all buds, cutting them off all branches. Place buds into a brown paper bag, close up, and place in grow room. I leave my grow room growing plants, so lights are on and all that. After about 3 days, when buds are almost completely dry, I place them into mason jars.

I set the lids on the jars, not screw them on. I place the jars in a cool dark place. Three days later, I take the buds out or just shake them around gently. Then I let them sit for another 3 days in the cool dark place. Then I take them out again, return them to the jar, and this time close the lid.

I open the lid after a day or two to be sure the buds are not getting moist again. If so, I leave the lid on but not screwed on for a few more days.
 
Thanks for the fast reply Chester001.
Could you be a bit more specific on how the packs complicate the cure?
First examination sure seems like they would simplify things.
But I'm just a newbie getting ready for my first grow. The last thing I need to do is complicate anything.
 
If your harvest consists on one small bud then a large sized Boveda might help w/ the cure ... I believe I use the 60 gram size in my 1/2 gal jars. Each pack absorbs only a small amount of water and each pack only has a small amount of moisture that it can release ... they are for maintaining the rh in a small space and not for drying or moistening plant material ... if you live in a humid environment, dessicant can be useful in a small space and if your environment is too dry you can place water in your space ... once weed is dried to the 60% range and this is known thru a week or two of jarring and reading the rh w/ a hygrometer then a Boveda can be introduced for long term storage. Expecting the Boveda to do more is inviting either too dry or too wet a cure. I have several 1/2 gal jars w/ weed and a Boveda pack ... the only time the rh in the jar moves is when I pick out a bud and that takes about 15 sec. ... the tiny bit of humidity lost (or gained) when the jar is open is made up by the Boveda ... for most growers planning on using their crop w/in 6 months there really is no need for Boveda's at all ... Most long term storage needs would be better served by removing the O2 from the jar ...
:thumb:
 
Awesome post! Thank you!

This has been floating around the grows and I'm not sure who to credit for it but I found it to be extremely helpful, especially as a newbie going through it the first time . More to the point it worked great!

------------------------------------------------
It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

-------------------------------------------------

As I said I'm a newbie, I found it extremely hard to figure out if I was doing the cure right, this takes out the guess work.

After I got the hygrometers I tested some stash that had been sitting in jars (luckily in the cold) for months, I thought it was doing great. The rh was over 70%. If it had been warmer that stuff would have been lost to mold.

A cautionary note, I tried using normal cheapo temp/humidity gauges, they don't read correctly in small enclosed spaces I guess, the rh readings were off by more than 20%. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish, get a Cal III. Get several. I like to have one for each 4 jars so I can keep a close eye on things. You need to leave them in there 24 hours later in the cure to get good readings.
 
I'd like to see myself hanging 12 feet plant, but how and where? :) It's a fantasy, nobody does it. I harvest colas individually, roughly trim them, and then hang them in my drying room where temps are far from perfect, so I jar them quicker to keep the moisture optimal for longer cure: 9-12 months. Also, this is the only way to keep oxidation of terpenes at bay. But how it's gonna smell after a week of curing and more still depends on the way u grow it in my opinion. But I'd never leave it for three weeks, that is definitely to long. It should take 7-10 days but only in a perfect temperature, usually it takes less.
 
YES!!! location location! where I am the drying/curing is rapido!
the authors def should take this into consideration!!! you betcha!
thanks!
 
The best way to dry buds is too trim them first, hang them to dry, or put them on a screen if they're not big enough to hang dry. When drying, they should be in a completely dark room at about 68 degrees and humidity at 50% with plenty of air circulation. They should all be completely dried and ready to cure anywhere from 4 to 7 days.
The best and quickest way to cure the buds is to put them in airtight glass jars in a dark room at about 80 degrees. Let the buds sweat for a few hours then open the tops to the jars and let the moisture come out for a few minutes then close them up again. Repeat this every day for three days. Then lower the temperature of the room to 70 degrees and only open the jars a few minutes twice a day for another week or two till you reach the point of perfectly cured buds with an excellent, smooth tasty hit when smoking out of a pipe. To test for perfectly cured buds a pipe should be used because water in a bong can mask a harsh hitting bud.
 
The best way to dry buds is too trim them first, hang them to dry, or put them on a screen if they're not big enough to hang dry. When drying, they should be in a completely dark room at about 68 degrees and humidity at 50% with plenty of air circulation. They should all be completely dried and ready to cure anywhere from 4 to 7 days.
The best and quickest way to cure the buds is to put them in airtight glass jars in a dark room at about 80 degrees. Let the buds sweat for a few hours then open the tops to the jars and let the moisture come out for a few minutes then close them up again. Repeat this every day for three days. Then lower the temperature of the room to 70 degrees and only open the jars a few minutes twice a day for another week or two till you reach the point of perfectly cured buds with an excellent, smooth tasty hit when smoking out of a pipe. To test for perfectly cured buds a pipe should be used because water in a bong can mask a harsh hitting bud.

That was a great first post, +reps
 
We just finished our first grow and are curing now. We use a 62% humidity control pouch, I believe the name is Boveda or something like that.
We say a local dispensary uses em and their bud is always nicer to smoke, handle and break up. It doesn't turn to dust the first time you touch a bud. Like other local dispensarys buds who don't use anything to keep moisture in the buds.
 
Drying buds depends on where your located and what is available to you to use for drying . I take a line - rope of any sort - line , run it across my room attached at both ends tightly so the line can hold the weight you are about to put on it from the branches . The room needs around 50% humidity to be ideal .To dry and the buds will turn to dust so humidity helps as long as it isn't to high , then you have problems with mold . Air circulation - fans are important as not to allow mold to set in or on your buds as they dry . Plants harvested : Take off your fan leaves before you harvest , if the grow is small enough to do so , larger grows , remove them as you harvest them if they have no valuable THC left on them . For outdoor smaller grows , after taking off your fan leaves , leave the plants so they can use the energy without fan leaves for a few days so all the growth goes towards yeild , not leaf , or not . I like to do that since I grow with sun and use lights - MH and HPS , at the same time . Days the plants get the sun, nights they get the lights so they don't flower on me until I want them to . If I left the plants outside at night they'd flower on me . I take off the fan leaves outdoors , my plants in buckets , a few days before I harvest . It gets rid of alot of chlorophyll uptake possability and makes harvesting easier . I don't want the green taste - hay taste - chlorophyll , in my end cured buds . Plus it makes it easer to deal with when hanging and when trimming the buds with them already out of the way . This is based on the size of your harvest , braches could be larger when hung . My plants go from 3 to 6 feet wide depending on if I'm growing in the ground or using buckets to grow in. The plants in the ground are much larger , so are the size colas I hang . They are over 12 inches. This is for a indoor grower bud drying but will work just as well for outdoor grow drying only the branches are larger I deal with due to way more yeild and larger branches . Smaller grows : Cut off budsicles - braches , 12 inches long or so off your plants and have a plastic bucket to put nice sized colas - buds into and keep your fingers off the bud . As you harvest them , tie or put one of the branchs over the line of the colas you just cut , make sure they won't fall off from air flow and you moving around them . See that the branches are spaced so air can flow freely throughout the hanging branches . Keep air flowing in the room so the buds can't rot or mold and helps with the drying process . I have a hepa filter air purifier in my drying room to make sure the air is pure , no mold . Not everone can do this and isn't needed . I do it just to be safe , no mistakes as they can be costly bud wise . It takes a long time to grow nice buds and I want to get the chance to try them out and have them be tasty . When the bud's braches are dry enough , they snap . My drying room is dark , though I've dryed buds with my lights on no problem , hanging in my bedroom with a fan overhead .
Once the buds branches start to snap , take the trim off the buds , save for bubble hash or oil . As you trim the buds , put them into Mason jars for cure . Make sure to leave a little area at the top of the Mason jar for air so you don't rot your buds because you jamed them into the jar so that the buds couldn't breath to cure . Jamed together is not the way to go . As was posted by the wine maker , if cured right , your buds actually smells like fine wine . I have buds in gallon Mason jars full of buds that smell like wine . The buds were a fruity smell at first but over the years have really truned out nice. The buds THC levels did not go up from a cure . It did give it a smooth taste and smoke that will last for years and years if kept in a cool place, NOT frozen . You freeze your buds and the THC will fall off , I freeze my bubble hash to draw out the moisutre from it , so freezing bud isn't a good idea unless you like freezed dried bud . If you freeze green undried buds or trim , you'll have mush when unfrozen . Once the buds are trimmed and in Mason jars - Mason jars have a great rubber seal to keep your buds curing and safe from mold and you can get them in all kinds of different sizes as needed . Open the jars each day at least once , twice is good . I open mine once or twice a day to burp them, let out the gases . In doing so you'll get rid of the green taste and smell and have great tasting buds rather than green tasting hay . The Gallon jars that are years old I open once and a while and burp them as well and also to check to see how far the cure has come . I keep all my bud so I have to work with it or lose all my work . Dry and crue your buds right and theyll keep you smiling and high for years to come . My buds have about a 10% moisture rate when they are jared up for curing . They are NOT as dry as a rock . If I didn't have air tight containers my buds would rot . That's why Mason Jars if possible or like the guy said who created this post , use jars with a rubber snap lid if you can get it . Anything glass and air tight would be prefered by me . You can use the netted hangers as well , put your cut branches in each level with plenty of air , dry the branches to the points the branches snap , jar the buds after trimmed off the branches and into Mason jars to cure. Not everyone has room to run ropes or lines so netting hangers can take their place. Hope that helps , Marksurfs way to dry buds :) Take care ! Marksurfs from OverGrowAmerica.com .............. Hey UncleBen , where are ya ?
 
I posted this yesterday as I am harvesting right now . Just got done trimming : In the summer it really gets hot in my room , works well for drying and curing buds . As during the day it gets pretty hot in my room and it gives the buds a good chance to dry and at night the moisture from outside comes into my room , I leave the door open to reconstitutes the freshly trimmed buds . After trimming the fan leaves off when I harvest , I let the buds hang in the netting hanger as in the pictures , usually use a rope stretched across a room , but can't here , no room for that ,, so netting and it seems to work great . The buds go back and forth drying to getting back it's moisture , around 50 % humidity at night , until I like the smell I'm getting from the buds . I then trim the bubble hash trim off in the morning when the buds are moistish , put them back in the net hanger for the day as it gets hot . The next morning after they are reconstitued again from the prior days heat I put them back into the jars to cure until I'm ready to cut them up into smokable size or size to fit into Gallon mason jars where they'll sit and cure until I can smoke them . I burp the jars each day until I stop getting me the gas " pop " when I open the jars . Then let them sit into bud storage
 
I am definitely going to try this. I'm always annoyed by the kief stuck to the jar. Because I don't like to waste anything I was swirling some Everclear in the jar when making oil for pain rub. But I like this idea of saving it better. Too good for pain rub.
 
I go about the curing process very differently.I use an adjustable temperature dehumidifier, in a room where the humidity is around 50%. I use a timer on the humidifier and operate the unit for 45 minutes, then a break of two hour, then another 45 minutes etc. on an infinite schedule. The temperature of the humidifier is set at approximately 80°F. The breaks allow the interior of the bud to dry more slowly, and allow moisture to travel out from the center of the bud to the exterior.

I know this will seem contrary to conventional opinion, and I'll probably get a lot of posts, but I have used this method more than once, and it produces a decent smokable bud, In about three days or so...
 
I like drying mine in a jerky maker for two days on low until the outside is dry and then put them in jars until the moisture wicks out of the stem and the bud feels moist again. Then it's back in the dehydrator for another day,,after it sits in a jar another night it only goes back in the dehydrator a few hours at a time until it's almost completely dry for the jar cure (65 to 70% rh).
 
Back
Top Bottom