2hiegh4u
New Member
i was wondering wat my water temp should be in my 6 plant sh Deep Water Culture system. and where should i read the temp from? the top or the bottom? thanks guys
water temp?
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TheAnswer1776
New Member
Ideally water temp should be between 65-72 degrees. Oxygen is best absorbed around 65 degrees, so that is everyones target. You should take the temp at the bottom for the best reading. I use an indoor/outdoor thermometer from walmart. It has a lead on a wire for the outside temp and is waterproof, so you can dangle it down into the tank to take readings. Hope this helps and welcome brother!
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2hiegh4u
New Member
thanks man. yea i have an aquarium thermometer from wally world. mine read 82 degrees but i read it from the top. ill lower it and let you know.
TheAnswer1776
New Member
Here is Roseman's Temp and Humidity post. Very helpful for me at first. Hope you don't mind me posting it Rose!!
Temperatures, Humidity
The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. [/SIZE]Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Temperatures, Humidity
The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. [/SIZE]Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Here is Roseman's Temp and Humidity post. Very helpful for me at first. Hope you don't mind me posting it Rose!!
Temperatures, Humidity
The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)
This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. [/SIZE]Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant's enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.
$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept
Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.
Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.
On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants' roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant's root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.
Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.
HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.
in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.
Wow, Man, I was too lazy to upload the pics and repost that. I sur3e wanted toa dn was going to, sooner or later. Awesome, man, awesome!
- Thread starter
- #7
2hiegh4u
New Member
any tips on how to keep my water temp down? im not havin problems yet. but im worried about when i add more lights. another thing ROSEMAN i know you said this system was not made to grow 6 fully devolped plants. but i have 6 autoflower. you think i should be ok? thanks again for all the quick replies
Roseman,I'm having a problem again . I'm in the 4th wk of flowering and my leaves are looking pretty bad a lot of browning even though I've been using 1/4 grow nutes with the bloom nutes. When I check my water the ph is way low high4s or low 5s so I add a little baking soda, and its back in the ball park. Yesterday I did a res change and flushed out the roots with a little h2o2 and fresh water than added 6 gal of fresk water and nutes. this am the ph was low again ?! So this am it was low again and I readjusted. What do you think is causing this ? Thw water level didn't go down as much as it used to. So there not drinking at this level. The temp seems fine water and air . My water is around 6+ from the tap, and about 550 ppm so I add what is prescribed by the nutes co (botanicare) and even use a little less so my ppm total is about 18-1900. I don't want to lose this as it's my ONLY female left out of 6 plants !! Talk about lousey female seed % 
Any ideas oh mighty guru of the cannibus ??
Any ideas oh mighty guru of the cannibus ??Keep water temps down?
The best way to lower the water temp, is to lower the room temp or grow area temp. In winter, that should be very easy to do too, this time of year. Just vent in some cool air, open a window, turn the heat down, etc
I have grown 4 large female plants in the tank, one in each corner, but never 6. Thing is, although 6 are crowded, if you remove one, the 5 remaining will not yield more weight or more tops. Read up on LST, Low Stress Training, which is simply bending them over and tying them over.
If I did not answer comepletely enough, give me more details adn I'l try again.
Roseman,I'm having a problem again . I'm in the 4th wk of flowering and my leaves are looking pretty bad a lot of browning even though I've been using 1/4 grow nutes with the bloom nutes.
Did ya reduce the BLOOM nutes 25%?
When I check my water the ph is way low high4s or low 5s so I add a little baking soda, and its back in the ball park. Yesterday I did a res change and flushed out the roots with a little h2o2 and fresh water than added 6 gal of fresk water and nutes. this am the ph was low again ?! So this am it was low again and I readjusted. What do you think is causing this ?
Definitely the Baking Soda. PM me again, give me an address again, I didn't save it. I have a large bottle of liquid pH Down left over I can mail to you Monday..
Thw water level didn't go down as much as it used to. So there not drinking at this level. The temp seems fine water and air . My water is around 6+ from the tap, and about 550 ppm so I add what is prescribed by the nutes co (botanicare) and even use a little less so my ppm total is about 18-1900. I don't want to lose this as it's my ONLY female left out of 6 plants !! Talk about lousey female seed %
That low pH is the baking soda, it acts like a lowering bufffer, and is great to use as a Buffer if the pH is going way too high. In your case, it is working against you.
- Thread starter
- #11
2hiegh4u
New Member
ive done lst before. but i wasnt plannin on doing it for this grow. the main reason is because they are autoflowers.didnt think i would need to. but if you think i should i would def take the advice. i have 3 ak47lowryder2 fem. and 3 afganryder fem
I have lots of ph down, but when I checked it it was low, and I read that baking soda raises the ph and it did when I added it. The leave tips are turning up , if thats another indication. I can pm you a new pic if that would help. So as you can see I'm a little confused !? Did you say the b. soda lowers (?) the ph ? I use the little bottle with the liquid ph test kit, and this morning it was red which is low (around 4-5) and when I added a teaspoon to a half gallon it turned green (higher 5-6) and I added this to my res it changed the total ph of the tank to around 5.5 ish. ?? Sorry to keep posting but am a little worried about this last plant.
Druidess 52
New Member
oops
you could TOP the heck out of them, but I'd rather LST..
I have lots of ph down, but when I checked it it was low, and I read that baking soda raises the ph and it did when I added it. The leave tips are turning up , if thats another indication. I can pm you a new pic if that would help. So as you can see I'm a little confused !? Did you say the b. soda lowers (?) the ph ? I use the little bottle with the liquid ph test kit, and this morning it was red which is low (around 4-5) and when I added a teaspoon to a half gallon it turned green (higher 5-6) and I added this to my res it changed the total ph of the tank to around 5.5 ish. ?? Sorry to keep posting but am a little worried about this last plant.
BAking Soda does raise it, I was mistaken, but it more is supposed to make it stable too.
Are you adjusting it too much? or too drastically?
- Thread starter
- #16
2hiegh4u
New Member
when i did it before i was in soil so i bent hangers into u's. it worked well. any suggestions on doing this with this system
TheAnswer1776
New Member
Roseman,I'm having a problem again . I'm in the 4th wk of flowering and my leaves are looking pretty bad a lot of browning even though I've been using 1/4 grow nutes with the bloom nutes. When I check my water the ph is way low high4s or low 5s so I add a little baking soda, and its back in the ball park. Yesterday I did a res change and flushed out the roots with a little h2o2 and fresh water than added 6 gal of fresk water and nutes. this am the ph was low again ?! So this am it was low again and I readjusted. What do you think is causing this ? Thw water level didn't go down as much as it used to. So there not drinking at this level. The temp seems fine water and air . My water is around 6+ from the tap, and about 550 ppm so I add what is prescribed by the nutes co (botanicare) and even use a little less so my ppm total is about 18-1900. I don't want to lose this as it's my ONLY female left out of 6 plants !! Talk about lousey female seed %
Could there be any chance of dead roots or plant matter in the water? That will cause your PH to drop significantly. I had some leaf material that got into my reservior and it took two res changes to get PH back to normal. Check the root ball for any debris and check for any leftover roots from the males you pulled.
Well I lost track of this thread, and I think I found out what was wrong; I was adding groe nutes to my bloom nutes and didn't realize that the bloom nutes already had some Nitrogen added in it. So after 2 wks of me adding grow nutes I found out that the plants were starving for potasium !! and what I thought was leaves dropping and turning brown etc was do to not having enough nitrogen was actually a shortage of potasium !! I think I've got it turned around !! 
OVER feeding???
Looks like I was adding stuff that was already there !! Looks like shes back on track !! Thank God , I was ready to pitch everything if I lost this one !! I started 4 more ak48s last night and 2 bagseeds in another res, jump back on that canna horse !! I think I'll try to start blooming a little sooner this time till I find a better grow setup with more room !! Maybe just get rid off the clothes and just have pot growing in closets !! Better for you I think, I've never been too fond of dress clothes anyhow! Good hearing from you again Roseman seems like we have almost everyone here from 
!!
!! 
