water temp in cloner, how to cool?
- Thread starter V3E541
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either with a mechanical 'chiller' or pop bottles frozen and added continuously and regularly
least i can think of no other way that is simple
cheers friend
least i can think of no other way that is simple
cheers friend
masonry works like a heat sink but you will have to monitor temps closely. Solid cinderblock, slate flagstone, garage or basement slab but these might pull temps way down. Remember that floor is coldest point in any room and a concrete slab (that is indoors or covered from sun) remains about 55 to 58 Fahrenheit all year long due to the moisture in the earth. At least that’s correct temps for indoor or underground concrete slabs in central USA.... temps on a covered slab may be more or less where you live but idk
Take it out of the tent?
I have tried using bubble cloners several times over the last ten years, and I have never been fully successful with them.
And, I've really tried.
I'm glad its not the only way to clone -- otherwise I'd be buying all my babies.
I have found them to be labor intensive; requiring a lot of maintenance, meticulous cleaning and near constant monitoring. And very unforgiving - one little mistake and yer done.
To each his own, but I'll just take a sheet of rock wool.
And, I've really tried.
I'm glad its not the only way to clone -- otherwise I'd be buying all my babies.
I have found them to be labor intensive; requiring a lot of maintenance, meticulous cleaning and near constant monitoring. And very unforgiving - one little mistake and yer done.
To each his own, but I'll just take a sheet of rock wool.
Never ran one but I’m guessing the pump is responsible for the heat, which tells me short of a product redesign the only other option would be to cycle power - set up a timer to cycle it off and on at various intervals.
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This ^^^ I get better results in a cup of water and thats not even 50% lately.
SoGnotSOG321
Well-Known Member
If you are in for it, use a small "dorm" refrigerator and setup a closed loop circulation system that chills water inside the dorm fridge and sends it thru your tank. If you have seen a fridge with water an ice in the door, theres usually a spool of tubing under the bottom of the lowest compartment that is cold and ready. Definitely a diy or Macgyver job.
Ironically, the best root zone temperature for rooting cuttings of a herbaceous flowering plant is 80°F. If you're having issues at that temperature, it'll be because you are not adding enough DO (dissolved oxygen) to your liquid or your water isn't chlorinated (and/or you're not changing it often enough).
There's a reason that they market heating mats for the purpose of rooting clones, but don't (generally) market reservoir chillers for the same purpose.
There's a reason that they market heating mats for the purpose of rooting clones, but don't (generally) market reservoir chillers for the same purpose.
It seems the consensus nowadays agree 80 F is the ideal temp for aerocloning whereas back in the day most people agreed 65-75 was the best. I’ve tried all the sterilizers and rooting supplements and followed the information on permaclone’s website( good read on the subject) and while I do believe the hormones definitely speed up the rooting process I still honestly have the best results in the 65-75 degree zone , once I start climbing above 75 I start having problems and this is with the sterilizers. Other than just slower rooting I notice the epidermis on my cuts gets soft and turns loose, especially if my jets are spraying directly on the stem. I also noticed where the collars hold the cutting the epidermis layer would soften and once that happened they would go downhill fast. At lower temperatures I don’t seem to have any of those problems.
