Hello, I am new to the forum. My grow tent gets as low as 81°F and as high as 95°F. I keep reading that this is too high, but I have spent hours getting it down and don't think it's possible without another AC unit in the room. The ambient temperature is always lower than the temperature my thermometer reads and it always feels cool, always a breeze and the plants are always moving. There is a fresh intake of air but I am still worried about the temperature. Should I try to lower it or is it fine? Introducing more CO2 into the room seems like the easiest option but it's not the cheapest unless I use a homebrew. The plants are currently in the beginning of pre flowering growth phase. Thank you for your help and your time.
Temperature Assistance
- Thread starter Katalyst
- Start date
Hello, Katalyst, and welcome to 420Magazine.com!
That is pretty hot. You didn't mention your setup. If your plants are able to transpire moisture easily, and there is adequate airflow, this can help the plants "self cool." In hotter environments, DWC seems to work very well, provided that the grower ensures mad amounts of DO (dissolved oxygen) in the solution by aerating it as much as possible. It's like when a person goes fishing on a hot day, lol, their minnows last longer if aeration is used.
And what is your lighting and ventilation setup? Are you ventilating both your light(s) and general grow space as one unit? If so, can you ventilate them separately? In other words - and assuming that you have air-cooled reflectors - bring air in from somewhere else, pass it through the light(s), and move it out without ever allowing it to mix with the rest of the grow room. This can help considerably with temperature control. Many common air-cooled reflectors have "insulated" covers available, and insulated ductwork can be used, which will further segregate the heat produced by your light(s) from the grow. And, since you mentioned the possibility of supplemental CO₂, it makes this idea more feasible, since you aren't constantly exchanging the air in your grow just to remove the heat produced by your light(s).
Additionally, the heated air from the lights, if kept separate, doesn't smell like cannabis - which makes it easier to deal with. The carbon filter on your grow room's ventilation setup doesn't have to work as hard, both because the grower can generally then move less air through it and because that air isn't as hot. So it'll work more efficiently and tend to last longer.
That is pretty hot. You didn't mention your setup. If your plants are able to transpire moisture easily, and there is adequate airflow, this can help the plants "self cool." In hotter environments, DWC seems to work very well, provided that the grower ensures mad amounts of DO (dissolved oxygen) in the solution by aerating it as much as possible. It's like when a person goes fishing on a hot day, lol, their minnows last longer if aeration is used.
And what is your lighting and ventilation setup? Are you ventilating both your light(s) and general grow space as one unit? If so, can you ventilate them separately? In other words - and assuming that you have air-cooled reflectors - bring air in from somewhere else, pass it through the light(s), and move it out without ever allowing it to mix with the rest of the grow room. This can help considerably with temperature control. Many common air-cooled reflectors have "insulated" covers available, and insulated ductwork can be used, which will further segregate the heat produced by your light(s) from the grow. And, since you mentioned the possibility of supplemental CO₂, it makes this idea more feasible, since you aren't constantly exchanging the air in your grow just to remove the heat produced by your light(s).
Additionally, the heated air from the lights, if kept separate, doesn't smell like cannabis - which makes it easier to deal with. The carbon filter on your grow room's ventilation setup doesn't have to work as hard, both because the grower can generally then move less air through it and because that air isn't as hot. So it'll work more efficiently and tend to last longer.
- Thread starter
- #3
Sorry about that, I will be able to add pictures as soon as I get off of work. The tent I use is 2x2x4, my fan is 440 CFM Inline connected to a carbon filter, 400 Watt HPS light. I have 3 plants in 3, 3 gallon fabric pots. I exhaust the hot air out the window and it's just being cooled by my house AC at this point. The ducting from the fan doesn't stretch very far, the tent is very close to the window. I attempted to run some duct from the air conditioning vent to the tent, but it wasn't feasible and just made the room hotter. I have turned the lights off during the hottest day. I will be able to post pictures of my setup in about 7 hours and will be able to bump then. Thanks for your help, TorturedSoul
- Thread starter
- #4
HigherTheHigh
Well-Known Member
do you always leave your temp gauge on top of your light? it might read high temps because of this.
put your gauge the same level as your plants to get a true reading.
put your gauge the same level as your plants to get a true reading.
- Thread starter
- #6
@higherthehigh I usually do so I can find the highest temperature in the tent. The last few days I have, but the temperature didn't change very much
@TorturedSoul I ended up purchasing a air cooled hooded vent - it has helped tremendously with temperature. I underestimated the heat produced by the lamp. I suppose I'll use it for summer. Thank you both for your help, updating in case anyone else has this problem in the future.
@TorturedSoul I ended up purchasing a air cooled hooded vent - it has helped tremendously with temperature. I underestimated the heat produced by the lamp. I suppose I'll use it for summer. Thank you both for your help, updating in case anyone else has this problem in the future.
- Thread starter
- #7
