Tell Me This Is Normal

ExNavyInSTL

ExNavyInSTL

Well-Known Member
Plant of the Month
November 2023
I'm just getting started in mycology.

I know that too much moisture can be bad, and this looks like a lot of condensation.

This is the North Spore Micro Bin. I'm in that period when waiting for full colonization.

Should I let this run its course before fruiting, or should I gently remove the top and paper towel the moisture drops?

I guess what I am asking is, should I remove condensation buildup along the process or should I wait until it is time for fruiting?

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FAE might be the issue.

I thought while colonizing, there was to be minimal exposure to the outside world.

So I haven't lifted the lid once in about 10 days.

It's not "sealed" shut. Meaning isn't a rubber seal on the lid. Plus, I do have painter's tape around the surface-level holes.

Correct this line of thinking if you will:

(1) Creating the mycelium (i.e. in grain jars) - in a dark place, kept around 80ºF with a filtered vent hole on the jar lid.

For this, I converted an Ice Chest into my space. I have two heat mats taped to the sides that are on temperature controllers.

(2) Colonizing in Substrate - low 70ºs (normal home temps) and 12 hours of light, only exposure to air is through microspore tape at surface level.

(3) Fruiting - Low 70 temps, 80 - 90% humidity, 12 hours light, and now you commence opening up the MicroBin holes with microspore tape or purpose-made filters (i.e. like the ones from Microppose). Occasionally fan and mist the inside walls (getting very little on the fruiting surface).

  • I have a humidifier with a flex hose running up to the top. I plan to keep it at 80 - 90 percent when Fruiting.
  • Tent has a small exhaust fan running at a slow speed 24/7 to ensure fresh are is coming in, with the vent flaps.
  • I also have a couple of USB fans (7") running gently to keep air circulating.
  • For the Micro Bin (Max Yield) I added a small computer fan that will come on for a minute every 6 hours (4 x days) to help push away CO2. They will get more air when I open the lids for misting.


Last Thought/Question:

When I combined this bin up with my already colonized grains and the coco-coir substrate I did not put a cover layer over the mix. I was going to add a smaller layer of coco coir that was to field capacity and then let the fruits grow through that layer. Sound about right? I've seen it done both ways, where you add a protective layer before colonizing, and I have seen it the way I plan to do it.


I apologize but I am taking so much information right now that I am bound to combine techniques. I'm trying not to do so.

I am making my own jars (grain and PF Tek), I recently made my first liquid culture (from a kit) and I plan to get one of those $400 luminar flow hoods for Christmas if I continue to enjoy this. I do not get a luxury item if I keep screwing up the basics.

I want to work with agar and all of the other more challenging aspects of mycology.



Slapalottapuss said:
Pretty normal to have condensation in the tubs. The question becomes whether there is enough FAE or not. Also it can just be that your temps are too far apart inside and outside the tub.
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Well that all looks spot on. The only thing I would say is the shotgun chambers need a relatively still air environment for the natural airflow/convection to work without competition.. A mono tub can benefit from some indirect airflow.

The shotgun chambers don’t typically have a casing layer iirc the colonized spawn should sit directly on the perlite.

If it starts to fruit and the stems get excessively long it means you have too much CO2 and they are trying to grow up and out of it. That’s why the holes are directly at the top of the perlite.
 
Slapalottapuss said:
Well that all looks spot on. The only thing I would say is the shotgun chambers need a relatively still air environment for the natural airflow/convection to work without competition.. A mono tub can benefit from some indirect airflow.

The shotgun chambers don’t typically have a casing layer iirc the colonized spawn should sit directly on the perlite.

If it starts to fruit and the stems get excessively long it means you have too much CO2 and they are trying to grow up and out of it. That’s why the holes are directly at the top of the perlite.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I converted my Micro Bin to fruiting about 30 minutes ago.

I took a few pictures to record my setup.

My "Fruiting" lid looks like Dr. Frankenstein helped me. I had all of these brilliant ideas that turned out not appropriate for Micro Bins. As you mentioned, I now understand which "Bin" benefits from passive air and the bins that benefit from indirect forced air.

As for Shotgun Bins, I understand the role and placement of the perlite. From examples I've seen, people tend to set their PF Tek on little sheets of aluminum foil that are set on top of the moistened perlite. I didn't realize they benefit more from passive air. All those holes now make sense.

Franken Fruiting Lid

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Max Yield Is Not Going to Use Me on Their Website
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My Forced Air - a Computer Fan - On a Timer

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I Drilled Holes for a Mister, But It Was Too Drippy

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Environmental Equipment

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That heater was born out of a space problem in my 4 x 4 cannabis grow tent.

My first option was a fan-blowing heater. The kind that turns off if tipped over. Those made too much heat for a small space. Anything it was near would get hotter than other pots in the tent.

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Then I went with the "radiator" style. I love that one, but it does take up floor space.

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Since I am always changing my grow style I had a grow where my floor space was limited, so I went to the interwebz for help.

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This is the exact one I bought, but I am not saying it is the best.

Amazon.com

I modified it by removing the back panel (heat shield), but I am not sure why. I say that because I always worried it would get too hot on the surface for the tent material. I ended up C-Clamping a small 4-inch fan to the back. This kept it off the wall and sent warm air upward.
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I brought it to the Mushroom Tent because I live in a 2-story house with just me and my wife. We don't keep upstairs as warm as we do downstairs, so at some this winter that heater will be in effect.





Slapalottapuss said:
That is an amazing set up. What are you using as the passive heater? Looks interesting.
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Unfortunately, fungus friend, that little fan is way too much (air) for that tub. The surface is too dry and the microclimate between the sub and the tub are a place where side pins will grow (better environment at this juncture). I also see a few green spots towards the middle bottom of the sub. Hard to tell, but if it looks like super white (in color) blobs with green, it's Trich and that is No bueno and will need to be removed ASAP. If it is, harvest what you have and send it outside (if you have that option) and cover it with soil or compost, it may fruit outdoors. Old flowerpots (used garbage can) work great for used or contaminated subs. All the best... of luck with your projects. :hookah:
 
There is some good news. I got 36 grams from those puny side pins.

Then I soaked the cake for six hours and set it up again for fruiting.

The bad news is I just saw Johnnie's post. I turned the fan up for more exposure.

It is covered in micropore tape so the breeze is very minimal. But, I changed the setting to 1.5 minutes every hour.

I'll back down on that. My goal was to let a machine do my FAE.
 
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