Started Flush Too Soon Now What?

[Koolbudz]

Ok so I am running Skunk #1 G13 Labs from seed and this is all the info they give....

"In late 70s blending Acapulco Gold Mexican Sativa, Afghan and Colombian Gold Sativa took a place and the created strain got called Skunk #1. The real hallmarks of this strain are abundant yields, vigour and fast and satisfying results. The plant produces strong stalks and branches, and as a consequence it has dense, rounded florets that join together to form large, heavy colas at harvest time. Finishes in about 50-60 days and has powerful and euphoric stone. Cannabis seeds gourmets consider Skunk #1 to be the icon of consistency and reliability, and its solid genotype has had an influence on hundreds of modern hybrids. Flowering Time : 50-60 Days"

Today is Day 55 of flower (when plant showed maturity I switched to 12/12) and my trichomes are just about all cloudy, some not fully engorged. I contacted G13 and for their strain they suggested 20-30% amber trich's.......

Am I looking at another week possibly 2 before harvest?

I have some yellowing on a few of the bulkier plants but they have plenty of green....

What to do?

I am using Nectar for The Gods.....

Should I just continue my Ph'd water regimen?

 

[PaleSun]

I think it sounds like you're right on target. Clear water only from here on to harvest. Myself, I even back off watering 50% in the last 2 weeks. A little yellowing is fine at this point. Your plants will move some nutrients around itself and use up those old leaves.

 

[Koolbudz]

So you think 3 weeks + of flush isnt too much... I fee like that could have been a couple more hits of flower nutes before a 2 week flush.

 

[Woblaaaah]

Id just run nutes till you pull it but up to you

 

[Virgin Ground]

I feed until the end. Why starve the plant for its most crucial time of bud building??
Starving plants for the last few weeks has been debunked. Flushing is a term used for putting x amount of water through the medium to remove salts.
Have a read and come to your own conclusions.

A critical look at preharvest flushing

Pre harvest flushing is a controversial topic. Flushing is supposed to improve taste of the final bud by either giving only pure water, clearing solutions or extensive flushing for the last 7-14 days of flowering. While many growers claim a positive effect, others deny any positive influence or...

www.420magazine.com

 

[Stunned]

Flushing is pretty much been discounted
Unless you're doing atypical things like flushing with ice water in the final 2 to 4 days before cutting
And even that is strain specific

 

[Koolbudz]

Well I am not doing the 'flush per say'... I ran Hurculean harvest to normal run off for 4 waterings to contiue to have plants take up nutes left over in soil then have watered with straight ph'd water twice.... So I didnt 'flush out the soil...

 

[shottafire]

Personally I think you can give it some 1/4 strength maybe half strength nutrients. I’m on the other side of the fence when it comes to flushing. I do flush but how I flush is not with no nutrients it’s with very light nutrient solution. I have found that in my regimen if I don’t flush I end up with a harsher smoke with a more muted taste and smell. Plus I like the plant to bring out those colors of red pink purple orange. If your in an organic soil no need to flush really since you are giving it mostly water. Your nutrients are organic as well so I would say use em but go a little lighter. Just my opinion

Cheers

 

[Koolbudz]

Here is where I am at....

Buds getting heavy leaning all over, every other day now more are leaning, its getting to be too much to support (or too much hassle - its tight)

Here is a pic of color change and trichomes.....

Sorry bout the blurple light but too many to shut off individually and I wasnt by my main so I shut off the nearest

What to do.... I think it may be too late for nutes,

 

[shottafire]

Here is where I am at....

Buds getting heavy leaning all over, every other day now more are leaning, its getting to be too much to support (or too much hassle - its tight)

Here is a pic of color change and trichomes.....

Sorry bout the blurple light but too many to shut off individually and I wasnt by my main so I shut off the nearest

What to do.... I think it may be too late for nutes,

They look perfect dude

 

[Koolbudz]

Thats what I was thinking but just timing , hate to blow it now

 

[No Pain]

Nice flowers , you still have plenty of time left with all those fresh pistils . It hasn't even hit its second phase yet ( where the majority of pistils have turned and then it has a burst of new fresh pistil grown when unpollinated as its last ditch attempt to get pollinated , that's when you know you are getting close .) Now I feed till the end (im in hydro) Im a low ec/ppm feeding kind of guy. The plant will stop taking up food so to speak on its own, its a mother nature thing . So lets say when you see that second/last phase of flowering you cut your feed in half if you are a strong feeder which by the looks of the leaf tips you are slightly pushing them .
I also still see a lot of clear in the photo ...this is the time of patience and it will try your patience especially if you are going to follow the breeder of 20-30 percent amber as they do not turn over night ...what you can expect to see at that point generally speaking is almost all of the pistils dead and receded into a swollen pod at that point you will probably still have a week or so . to help things along around the time of the second phase you can add another hour of darkness to set of the internal triggers in the plant that the end of the season is near and its time to wrap things up .

 

[Koolbudz]

Nice flowers , you still have plenty of time left with all those fresh pistils . It hasn't even hit its second phase yet ( where the majority of pistils have turned and then it has a burst of new fresh pistil grown when unpollinated as its last ditch attempt to get pollinated , that's when you know you are getting close .) Now I feed till the end (im in hydro) Im a low ec/ppm feeding kind of guy. The plant will stop taking up food so to speak on its own, its a mother nature thing . So lets say when you see that second/last phase of flowering you cut your feed in half if you are a strong feeder which by the looks of the leaf tips you are slightly pushing them .
I also still see a lot of clear in the photo ...this is the time of patience and it will try your patience especially if you are going to follow the breeder of 20-30 percent amber as they do not turn over night ...what you can expect to see at that point generally speaking is almost all of the pistils dead and receded into a swollen pod at that point you will probably still have a week or so . to help things along around the time of the second phase you can add another hour of darkness to set of the internal triggers in the plant that the end of the season is near and its time to wrap things up .

Well thats good and bad....

Good = Due to weight I need to prepare to tie up more branches
Bad = Due to weight I need to prepare to tie up more branches

 

[No Pain]

Well thats good and bad....

Good = Due to weight I need to prepare to tie up more branches
Bad = Due to weight I need to prepare to tie up more branches

those are the kinds of good and bad problems you want . lol ...That's why they make yoyo's !....string them up like you are a puppeteer !!

 

[Koolbudz]

those are the kinds of good and bad problems you want . lol ...That's why they make yoyo's !....string them up like you are a puppeteer !!

Wow mine are not that big... soon, I hope.
I see a couple doing as you said in your other post.

 

[Big juice]

those are the kinds of good and bad problems you want . lol ...That's why they make yoyo's !....string them up like you are a puppeteer !!

I need a few of those

 

[No Pain]

Wow mine are not that big... soon, I hope.
I see a couple doing as you said in your other post.

no worries one day im sure you will have a strain that will produce those for you and you will have the patients and knowledge to let it !

here I dug this out , I actually came across it on this site published by another member . Its written by a famous breeder .
its a good start to understanding some things . Enjoy .


Harvesting Marijuana! When To Harvest Your Marijuana Crop
By DJ Short
There are several important points to consider when choosing the optimum time to harvest your marijuana crop. There are different factors to consider between indoor and outdoor marijuana plants. There is the difference between Sativas and Indicas in bloom duration and final effect.
There is the difference between early and late harvest to encourage head to body high respectively. There is the issue of chemistry because what we are really considering in terms of the ripeness relates directly to the chemical nature and state of the plant at harvest. Last, but not least, is the concept of the window for marijuana harvest, where I will begin.

Window For Harvesting Your Marijuana Crop
This term indicates the period during which the plant is at its optimum state of ripeness. The window opens when the plant is first ripe. Somewhere along the line the plant becomes over-ripe which signifies the closing of the window of harvest.
For most Indicas grown indoors, the window of harvest is about two weeks long give or take a couple of days for various strains. Indoors, if going directly from an 18/6 hour vegetative light cycle to a 12/12 hour bud cycle, most indicas take about eight weeks to fully mature.
As to outdoors I can only speak from experience at the 45th parallel and the bloom times there. At the 45th parallel I've found most Indicas to be at peak harvest starting at the beginning of October, sometimes very late September, and running until the end of October, sometimes running into November during mild years or in a greenhouse. My favorite time to harvest a nice Blueberry Indica outdoors is in the second to third week of October.
For Sativa grown either indoors or outdoors, the window may be open much longer. Some Sativas take up to thirteen weeks to mature indoors. Outdoors many will go well into November and even December, if conditions are right (again, this is near or at the 45th parallel). Head High or Body Stone?
An important consideration has to do with one's preference for a head high or more of a body high. A good head high can positively influence one's mental state much like a psychedelic; whereas a good body high is more similar to a narcotic effect. Generally, head highs tend to be more up and body highs tend to be more down. Suffice it to say that a good healthy mix of the two is a fine goal to achieve.
Sativas and early window harvests tend to be more of a head high, whereas Indicas and late window harvests tend to be more of a body high. Given this rule of thumb you can pretty much come up with what you want. That is, if you prefer a very psychedelic head high, then an early harvested Sativa might do best.
If a very narcotic body high is desired, then a late harvest indicas would probably do best. For that best-of-both worlds high, experimentation with late harvested sativas and early-to-mid harvested indicas usually proves interesting.

Magnify Your Buds
When we speak of various highs experienced by different products, we are noting variations in plant chemistry. The chemicals we enjoy are produced within the glandular stalked trichomes, along the surfaces of the bud flowers (calyxes), bracts, leaves and stems, starting in or around the fourth week of the bud cycle. More and more of these trichomes develop as the plant matures.
I highly recommend that the serious cannabis student acquire a 30X power, illuminated magnifier. These can be found at most local electronics stores, often for under fifteen dollars. With the aid of the magnifier one can learn more about the detail of trichome development and ripeness.
As far as trichomes are concerned, the tall ones with swollen, clear, bulbous heads are what to shoot for. The denser the concentration, the greater the potency.

The Cycle Of Marijuana Plant Maturity
Starting in the third or fourth week of the flowering light cycle, glandular stalked trichomes will begin to form along the surfaces of leaves, flowers, bracts and stems. At the same time, more and more flowers (also called calyxes) develop into densely-packed floral clusters.
The pistils of the young flowers are bright white and turn reddish brown with age. The pistils and flowers develop from the bottom of the bud to the top. The older, lower pistils are the first to turn reddish brown. For most basic indicas this usually happens by the sixth week in the flowering cycle. It is about this time that the calyxes begin to swell.
Calyx swelling is a major indicator of peak maturity. The lowest, oldest calyxes swell first and the swelling works its way up to the highest, youngest flowers on each bud. At peak maturity about 90% of the calyxes will almost look seeded, they are so fat.
Three quarters to 90% of the pistils will have turned reddish brown as well. For a basic Indica this takes well into the seventh week of the flowering cycle.
By the end of the eighth week most of the calyxes will have swollen and a surge of trichome development has coated most of the buds. It is now that the development of a very discerning palate comes into play to determine the finest harvest time. Remember - patience is a virtue and often a discipline.
The ripening signs for most Sativas are highly similar, except extended over a longer period of time. Occasionally, some Sativas have windows of peak harvest that actually open and close. That is, for a week or so the plant may exhibit signs of peak ripeness.
However, a week later the plant may have a growth spurt, which lowers the trichome-to-fibre ratio and overall potency for a little while. Usually a fibrous growth spurt is accompanied by a corresponding trichome increase. Again, time and experience are the key elements in this regard.

Changes In Marijuana Chemistry
As the plant matures through its window of harvest its chemistry changes. As the window closes, the more desirable compounds begin breaking down into less desirable ones. Primarily it is THC breaking down in CBNs and CBDs.
Which particular combination of chemicals is the most desirable is purely a matter of taste and choice, developed over time and with experience. Set and setting also play an important role in determining which type of product is best appreciated.
Pleasant head highs are often desirable for social occasions, whereas a narcotic late-window Indica may work better as an evening medicinal herb. The main point is that these differences are chemical in nature and more research is needed to more fully understand this phenomenon.
Another important point is that much can be done to further enhance the chemical process, especially in regard to bouquet, aroma and flavour, given the proper curing process.

 

[Koolbudz]

Well I started harvesting early....

Tried a couple doobies worth which were not 100% cloudy and was very potent.... Test was pulled with 85-90% cloudy (bent branch so figured taste test). I am now 100% cloudy looking at medium size guys (for a coupl few days or so...

I was scheduled to harvest Saturday so I started larger nugs and leaners which I figured were a waste of time to tie up for just a couple days.

After the taste test, how it laid us out I just cannot see going 20-30% amber, would not be couch lock, would be zombie sleep LOL

My only real problem now is where to hang it all and I belive I ended up with much much more than I expected.

I think 8 plants is too much for us, I couldnt imagine what I could do if I really knew what I was doing LOL

Just by the few I pulled and what is left I under estimated what my harvest would be.

Will give final dried weight when done.....

 

[Koolbudz]

I need a few of those

nugs or yoyos.....? I will be buying some yoyos...never saw them before but would make life sooooooooo much easier.

 

[PaleSun]

Well that's great news @oldskoolbudz Keep that drying temp low. Like 20c (70us) and the humidity 50-55% in the dark for 10 days. Keep a fan on in the room but not blowing on your plants. In the mean time source out some Bovida 62% packs for curing.