I have started to have an issue with rust spots on alot of leaves I am using only Happy Frog soil and have had good growth as of just getting discoloration that doesn't look like calcium nor magnesium deficiency nether nutrient burn as the small mutated tri-leaf set has polka dots.
Rust spots on leaves of all aged leaves
- Thread starter Frosty55
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #2
Your plants are looking nice, pretty decent as it is. I do not see any extreme signs of discoloration or a lot of rust colored spots.
Fox Farm uses aged forest products (a type of compost), earthworm castings, some bat guano, and some microbes for the Happy Frog. They recommend on the website that the grower should add fertilizers during a plants grow and flower stage.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you for the fast reply as well as with a bit of info. So I do have a question on what would be the recommended fertilizer for the plant we've all grown to love? I had seen some growers on YouTube that start out and say it takes about a month for nutrients to be used up with just Happy Frog so I really wanted to wait for a sign that she needs something else but with rust color it just scares me and this is my first grow and am going to try to get a grow bible but I just feel it could be better explained on this world of fine people.
- Thread starter
- #5
I have two available to me rn and that would be Fox Farms BIG BLOOM and SENSI CAL MAG Xtra.
You need a full process Nute Regime, not just a bloom or calmag
So u will need to find something else.
Foxfarm has a 3 part system, not a big fan of it, but it's ok
Find someone, using same medium as you and copy their process
Good luck
So u will need to find something else.
Foxfarm has a 3 part system, not a big fan of it, but it's ok
Find someone, using same medium as you and copy their process
Good luck
I wanted to ask earlier and forgot. Is the top photo showing one plant? Or is it 3 plants in the one pot? Or, is it the mutated tri-leaf set that has polka dots that you mention?
Both of the fertilizers you have in the photos can be used.
The Fox Farm Big Bloom is supplying micro-organisms found in the worm castings that will work on extracting the minerals and nutrients from the soil. It also supplies a very small amount of Phosphorous and Potassium. Keep in mind that as the plant gets larger you will have to move on to a more balanced fertilizer that can supply all 3 macro nutrients.
If you use the Sensi Cal it will supply enough Nitrogen for now.
Time to consider transplanting. Both are ready for the next size up. Transplant the top one to a larger pot and then the bottom one can go from those Solo cups into the now empty pot.
Both of the fertilizers you have in the photos can be used.
The Fox Farm Big Bloom is supplying micro-organisms found in the worm castings that will work on extracting the minerals and nutrients from the soil. It also supplies a very small amount of Phosphorous and Potassium. Keep in mind that as the plant gets larger you will have to move on to a more balanced fertilizer that can supply all 3 macro nutrients.
If you use the Sensi Cal it will supply enough Nitrogen for now.
Time to consider transplanting. Both are ready for the next size up. Transplant the top one to a larger pot and then the bottom one can go from those Solo cups into the now empty pot.
- Thread starter
- #8
I honestly thought that as I looked at the npk of both products are fairly low but thank you for letting me know it doesn't suffice for this both of the grow. I will start doing research on possible likewise growers.
- Thread starter
- #9
The top is just one plant as it was topped abit early so I am under assumption that she's done what she needs to do but she was in a small container abit bigger than the cup and I just put it in the larger pot. I have 3 gallon pots that I'd like to use for both and I just transplanted the mutated tri-leaf plant and honestly I was wondering about both bc it started about the same time so i had seen about rust fungus but with everything I thought it might be a deficiency of some sort that looked out of place.
At this stage of the vegetating cycle the fertilizers are OK. It will be later as the plants get much larger that the levels of the nutrients have to go up.
There is nothing wrong with the basic Fox Farm trio. Many growers have had excellent results using them when the dosage and schedule from Fox Farm is followed. They run into problems when the plants start to enter their active flower stage.
Often the problems are traced back to when the grower decides to reduce the dose to 1/2 of the recommended amount and will continue this low dose into flower. Then we see premature yellowing of leaves and slower flower bud growth.
If you want to continue with the Fox Farm fertilizers it is best to buy the other two that go with the Big Bloom and then follow the latest schedule from the folks at Fox Farm. The amounts on the back of the bottle are just for people who will only be using that one product. If using two or all three then download the schedule and follow it since it will change week by week.
The latest schedule is on the companies web site or you can call the company and ask them to send the paper copy which is sometimes a lot more convenient to have around instead of having to look at a computer or look at a phone.
Doctor Trevor
Well-Known Member
I started with the trio and started adding other nutes along the way. Here's my feeding schedule:
Scarred4life
Well-Known Member
Aside from nutrients, as others have mentioned, my first impression was that it looked like it was over watered and it needs better air flow. Root rot does that to leaves pretty quickly. Any discoloration on the stem near the soil?
- Thread starter
- #13
- Thread starter
- #14
Thank you for the schedule I will print it out. Is there any nutes that weren't listed for FF that were called for like discoloration early on. Honestly I'm just starting out so any info on what might have had the best result for you.I started with the trio and started adding other nutes along the way. Here's my feeding schedule:
- Thread starter
- #15
Thank you, I will be going on their website to furthermore look at scheduling. I'm doing my best not to burn the babies. Honestly I'm curious if you might think something is going on bc even after defoliation of leaves looking volatile compared to normal deficiencies. I mean I'm keeping the rouge leaves for future reference but obviously away from the grow.
- Thread starter
- #16
- Thread starter
- #17
as mentioned they look a little over watered. have a quick read through this
i'd also get the basic nutes sorted now. it's surprising how fast stuff will fail, once you see trouble you might not be able to wait til they get delivered.
The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant
The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...
www.420magazine.com
i'd also get the basic nutes sorted now. it's surprising how fast stuff will fail, once you see trouble you might not be able to wait til they get delivered.
- Thread starter
- #19
If the soil gets dry it is usually a simple matter of slowly giving water until a small amount flows out the holes on the bottom of the pot.
But, if the soil gets too dry then even a small amount of water will run off the surface. When soil gets too dry it is a case where it has become hydrophobic and then it means a small amount of water, waiting 15 to 30 minutes and another small dose and so on and so on. Eventually the soil has soaked up water and everything is back to normal. Try to avoid letting the soil get too dry.
Letting it get a little bit dry is OK and sometimes good, but too much of a good thing is almost always a bad thing. Then when the plants are entering into a full flowering stage avoid any excessive dry stages.